I searched and came up with a few good clutch threads:
The rest of them were:
PT1: ACT sucks!
PT2: No it doesn't
PT1: yes it does, it sucks little hairy gerbil testicle!1!!1
PT3: You are both , CMII is teh Sht!
PT2: F U NOOB!
PT1: CM Roxors!
PT4: Are any of you actually running boosted cars at this point?
PT1: .........
PT2: ..........
PT3: ...........
PT4: ............ Exactly .......
PT1,2,3: F U OLD BALLS!!11!!!
Now I'll give you a history:
I just finished a full day's worth of work on her car and tied up alot of loose ends that have been lingering for ....... 10 months or so, and on the drive home the clutch started slipping. What is installed is a Clutchmasters III on an MX3 FW.........I was under the impression that they could handle 6 psi...
So at this point I need to start shopping for a clutch. I am budget minded, but will spend money in the right places. I need a clutch that will hold the current 6# on the car, and want to build in a safety window of up to 9#, althouth the car will never see it.................I don't think.
The car is a daily driver, driven by my wife.
BEAR IN MIND SHE USED TO DRIVE MY CAR WITH THE OLD VALLEY FRICTION CLUTCH, AND LOVED IT She didn't mind the 2800# PP.
I've got basically an affinity for a full face because I dislike the on-off of a puck disk. However, after reading the other threads, apparently there have been some breakthroughs in drivability of puck clutches?
I'm no stranger to clutch installs, and I've replaced my fair share on my own cars. I ran the Valley Friction for 14K, I had a Paeco Clutch that lasted 280,000 w/ NOS and then Boost, I've ran the eClutchmasters (TeH Gay), and I currently have an ACT HDSS? in my SC-PGT (of which I'm not entirely happy with it)
What I need are SOLID RECOMENDATIONS on a clutch, or clutch Hybrid for this application. One that you are using, or have used, and have the miles on it to show it is a good clutch. Overkill is OK to an extent, because I don't want to be replacing it again in under a year. The more crap you put on these cars the more difficult it is to work on them.
So basic guidelines:
Thanks all.
- Carbon Metallic & kevlar debate from 2005
- DXD/SBC/Feramic debate from 2005
- Goatcrapp's post myrtle interlude
- and that was about it.
The rest of them were:
PT1: ACT sucks!
PT2: No it doesn't
PT1: yes it does, it sucks little hairy gerbil testicle!1!!1
PT3: You are both , CMII is teh Sht!
PT2: F U NOOB!
PT1: CM Roxors!
PT4: Are any of you actually running boosted cars at this point?
PT1: .........
PT2: ..........
PT3: ...........
PT4: ............ Exactly .......
PT1,2,3: F U OLD BALLS!!11!!!
Now I'll give you a history:
I just finished a full day's worth of work on her car and tied up alot of loose ends that have been lingering for ....... 10 months or so, and on the drive home the clutch started slipping. What is installed is a Clutchmasters III on an MX3 FW.........I was under the impression that they could handle 6 psi...
So at this point I need to start shopping for a clutch. I am budget minded, but will spend money in the right places. I need a clutch that will hold the current 6# on the car, and want to build in a safety window of up to 9#, althouth the car will never see it.................I don't think.
The car is a daily driver, driven by my wife.
BEAR IN MIND SHE USED TO DRIVE MY CAR WITH THE OLD VALLEY FRICTION CLUTCH, AND LOVED IT She didn't mind the 2800# PP.
I've got basically an affinity for a full face because I dislike the on-off of a puck disk. However, after reading the other threads, apparently there have been some breakthroughs in drivability of puck clutches?
I'm no stranger to clutch installs, and I've replaced my fair share on my own cars. I ran the Valley Friction for 14K, I had a Paeco Clutch that lasted 280,000 w/ NOS and then Boost, I've ran the eClutchmasters (TeH Gay), and I currently have an ACT HDSS? in my SC-PGT (of which I'm not entirely happy with it)
What I need are SOLID RECOMENDATIONS on a clutch, or clutch Hybrid for this application. One that you are using, or have used, and have the miles on it to show it is a good clutch. Overkill is OK to an extent, because I don't want to be replacing it again in under a year. The more crap you put on these cars the more difficult it is to work on them.
So basic guidelines:
- What clutch are you running with your boosted car.
- What is your boost set-up & How many pounds
- are you an aggressive driver with it .... like my wife's driving, so .........Aggressive.
- How many miles do you have on said clutch
- if given the opportunity, would you reinstall the same clutch or go with another one, and why?
Thanks all.
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