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  • 1st Gen Probe/MX6 FAQ

    1st Gen Frequently Asked Questions

    This is the Official FAQ for the F2 powered Ford Probe and Mazda MX6. Most of the ideas presented here will be directed toward the non-turbo models but some are applicable to all models. I know there is some information missing and if you have any input please feel free to add or shoot me a PM and I will insert it into this FAQ (provided the information is accurate!). Hopefully, now nobody will have an excuse for not searching. With that said, everything here is presented as a brief and additional information for the majority of this can be found by searching ProbeTalk.

    So sit back, relax, read, learn, and when you’re ready: Get off your ass and get to work!

    General:

    1st things to buy (get at least one of these):
    Haynes manual (Probe or MX6) – vague at times but will answer many questions
    Chiltons manual – vague, too, But gets the job done.
    Factory manuals (Probe or MX6) – This is pretty much the best. Purchase from www.ebaymotors.com or Mazda dealership.

    Both of these mx6.com links have a lot of typical questions answered:
    Mx6.com performance FAQ: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12651
    MX6.com technical FAQ: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12650

    General information and specifications of the F2, F2T, and Vulcan 3.0L can be found at www.performanceprobe.com – click on the links labeled: Information, Upgrades, and Do-It-Yourself. Performanceprobe.com has a lot of relevant information. Some of it is very useful while others not – you decide.

    Other cool websites with F2 information:
    www.geocities.com/ricks89gl/
    www.cardomain.com/id/anomaly1
    www.geocities.com/onthesyxxproductions/

    F2 information:
    Specifications: 2.2 liters, Single Over Head Cam (SOHC), 12 Valve, 4 Cylinder
    Power: 110 hp, 130 lb-ft torque

    Typically the best place to find replacement parts is your local junkyard. You can usually find good parts for a lot less than what places like Mazda dealerships would charge. Otherwise, Mazda dealerships either carry or can order parts but you’re going to pay for it! Other places that I have found to carry replacement parts: www.thepartsbin.com (excellent customer service and delivery time), www.nopi.com, www.carparts.com, www.summitracing.com
    *note: not an endorsement, just places that carry parts for the 1st gens.

    General Maintenance:
    NGK spark plugs: ZFR6F-11 or ZFR7F-11 or ZFR5D-11 ....Plug gap: 0.044 (factory rec.)
    High flow fuel filter: Fram part number G7393

    Shift linkage bushings (4 required): Cost: ~$4-$7 each
    Ford: E7GZ-7A133-A.......Mazda: B001-46-062
    Lower shift boot:
    Ford: F02Z7C301............Mazda: GJ25-46-090
    Change control rod (large, front): GJ21-46-041 (Mazda)
    Step by step directions for installing: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...ifter+bushings

    2.2L Non-Turbo Vacuum Diagram:
    http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~tford/vac_hose.jpg

    HLA Ticking:
    The HLAs, or Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, adjust valve clearances automatically,
    so you don't have to do it during a tune up. However, they sometimes get clogged
    with sludge on older cars and collapse. Marvel Mystery Oil has helped some people
    to free them up. Otherwise you've got to replace them. Checking and replacement
    procedures can be found by clicking this link: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=77252

    ECU Reset:
    I have just done an *engine, fuel, air intake, exhaust* modification and I need to reset the ECU/computer. How is this done and why do I need to do it?
    1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
    2. Press on the brake pedal for about 30 seconds
    3. Reconnect battery
    4. Start the car but don't touch the gas pedal for one minute!
    The ECU is like the brain for your car. It "learns" your engine's fuel and air intake requirements and then sets them into memory. When you do a modification that will affect the way fuel and air are mixed, then you have reset the brain so that it forgets the old requirements and has to learn new ones. This will guarantee that you will get the most from your mods.

    ATX to MTX swap information:
    http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...t=ATX+MTX+swap

    Speedometer stuff:
    Follow the links for information regarding dealing with a bouncing needle, dead speedometer, and the repair.
    Click here for info! (3 replies down)
    Also, Here!

    I have noticed that the speedometer drive gear is not the part that will fail. The best option is to replace the upper and lower speedometer cable assembly.
    Last edited by anomaly; August 1, 2005, 11:00 PM.
    Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
    1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
    "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

    Enjoy PT? Support it.

  • #2
    Trouble idling or stalling:
    More than likely it is a vacuum leak or the VAF is not connected properly. Look for cracks in the throttle body (TB) boot, check all vacuum lines to ensure they are connected, and make sure the VAF plug is properly connected.


    Sound systems:
    Visit www.crutchfield.com for head units and speaker options.

    Head unit:
    Dash space: Most Probes will probably have an aftermarket head unit already but for those with the factory unit, they are typically set up as a single DIN radio with a cubby-hole tray underneath. When you upgrade to an aftermarket head unit, you should purchase an installation kit that is a new plastic dash piece that has a pre-cut section for a single DIN radio and a blank panel with a small cut out for a ½ DIN equalizer. You can cut the equalizer space out and utilize this area for aftermarket gauges or another DIN unit (i.e. I have a cassette receiver in the factory location and an add-on CD player in the lower DIN section under the head unit).
    Head unit removal: http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/FLM/Probe.html

    Factory speakers (typical):
    Front Doors: 6.5”
    Rear seat panels: 4”x6” (upgraded sound systems might have 6.5”)

    How to access speakers:
    Front doors:
    1. Use Philips head screw driver to remove the 3 screws holding the arm rest on, the 1 screw for the door handle, and the upper inside corner by the hinges.
    2. Use a flat screw driver to pry the c-clip holding the window crank handle in place. You can use your hand to pry a little space to access the clip.
    3. With everything off, gently pry the bottom of the door panel off the door. There are many plastic clips holding the panel in place. The door panel should almost fall off if you undo them all.
    4. Gently slide the door panel up to pull it off the door. Stopping occasionally to make sure nothing it tangled and to work the door lock through the panel.
    5. It is easiest to tilt the panel sideways in order to get the door handle through.
    6. The speaker is now ready to be removed. Door panel installation is reverse of removal.

    Rear panel speakers:
    1. Beginning in the trunk, use a thin, flat screw driver to remove all the plastic push pins on the panel on the opposite side of the tail lights. With all the pins removed, take the rear panel out and set someplace safe.
    2. The next panels to remove are the top pair by the triangular-shaped windows next to the hatch. There should be a couple of Phillips screws holding them in place – Remove them. Then to remove the panels, gently pry them away from the window. They are held in place by plastic push pins that are molded into the panel. It will take a little prying to remove them, but if you’re careful, they will come out. To reinstall them, position the panels in place and press them in until you hear the clicks (pins).
    3. Then remove the two lower panels that form the sides of the trunk.
    4. Now you have full access to the rear seat interior panels. Remove all screws (should be 3-4). Pull the panels toward the front of the car and slide the panel out of place.
    5. Viola! The speakers are completely revealed and ready to be removed.
    6. To install a set of 6.5” speakers, you will need to cut some ¾” MDF board (get from Home Depot) to make the speaker mount. Measure the required size for the MDF bracket (should be about 12”x12”). Use the speaker cut out jigs provided with the (new) speakers. Install.
    7. Replace all the panels in the opposite order they were removed.
    Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
    1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
    "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

    Enjoy PT? Support it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Upgrades:
      Good websites to find performance parts: www.probesport.com, www.pttuning.com, www.nopi.com, www.summitracing.com, www.mbxmotorsports.com

      First Mods (see below for more information on mods):
      1. VAF adaptor and cone filter
      2. Home Depot Cold Air Intake
      3. Plugs, wires, and maybe MSD Blaster 2 coil
      4. Exhaust – get either 2.25” or 2.5” piping
      5. Suspension
      It doesn’t really matter the order. This is just a rough outline for what mods to do when you begin.

      Engines available: F2T, FE3 (J-spec; see FE3 FAQ: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...did=1701023231 )

      Chips (ECU tuning):
      JET – www.jetchip.com look in the import section for Mazda mx6
      Standalone (SDS, TEC III, etc...)
      Others (?)

      Short throw shifter:
      www.probesport.com part number: STS-01 $104.95. Includes bushings.
      Pacesetter (www.nopi.com) - ~$80 Adjustable throw
      Install instructions: See Haynes manual or www.scpoc.com <then click on the "Maintenance" link, then click on the "How-to's" link, then scroll down to "Installing PRD STS" link> *note: scpocs link is for the 2nd gen install, but they are very similar.
      Civic STS: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701087929


      Suspension Options:
      Coilovers
      Tein - Originally designed for the 2nd Gen but with some modifications can work on the 1G chasis. Best quality.
      K-Sport - 2nd Gen design and will require modification to fit the 1G Chasis.

      Springs:
      Purchase at: www.nopi.com, www.tirerack.com, www.shox.com (examples)
      Eibach Pro-Kit – Drop: Front 1.3”, Rear 1.0”. Highly recommended. Best performance of the available springs. Need to get KYB GR-2 struts or better. Cost: ~$210
      Intrax – Drop: Front/Rear 1.75”. More for looks (slammed). Moderate performance. Need to get better struts than KYB-GR2s. Cost: ~$175
      Suspension Techniques – Drop: Front/Rear 1.0”. Cost: ~$180
      H&R – Not available any more.
      Coilovers – from 2nd gens (?). – Ground Control and others available. Must modify struts to fit (grinder required). Will give the lowest drop.

      2nd gen spring/strut use information thread:
      http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...did=1701076289

      Struts:
      Purchase at: Same as springs.
      Monroe Sens-a-trac – DO NOT USE!!! Very soft and will blow out pretty easily.
      KYB GR-2 – Upgrade from stock. Good with Eibachs. Stiff. Low cost.
      Tokico “Blues” – Excellent. Work well for all springs.
      2nd Gen struts – Front will fit. Rear requires modification but will change the camber.

      Suspension bushings (Control Arms and Rear Trailing Arms):
      1. You can order the Mazda bushings for certain parts.
      2. There is a company in Australia that sells polyurethane bushings for an excellent price (~$200)! The polyurethane bushings are made by Super Pro (www.superpro.com.au) and you can contact www.185performance.com to purchase them (they did the BB!).
      A. Part Numbers:
      SPF2065K - Rear Trailing Arm Rear Bush Kit
      SPF2064K - Rear Trailing Arm Front Bush Kit
      SPF2071K - Rear Control Arm (front and rear) Outer Bush Kit
      SPF2066K - Rear Control Arms (front and rear) Inner Bush Kit
      SPF1278-80K - Front Lowered Control Arm Inner (toward front)
      SPF1278-70K - Front Lowered Control Arm Inner (toward rear)

      **NOTE: I recommend new control arms for the new poly bushings so that your supporting suspension mods are all fresh - no worn parts.
      1. www.thepartsbin.com has the control arms available for ~$130-$150. Look in the Mazda 626/MX6 catalogues.
      Last edited by anomaly; July 18, 2013, 10:23 PM.
      Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
      1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
      "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

      Enjoy PT? Support it.

      Comment


      • #4
        Camber Plates
        Tein - xxxmonoxidechil's set up

        Anti-Roll Bars (Sway bars):
        Stock bars for Non-GT models: Front = 20mm, Rear = 16mm
        Eibach – Not available anymore. They were 21mm for the front and rear.
        Addco - 1" (25.4mm) front anti-sway bar and a 7/8" (22.225mm) rear. http://www.addco.net/products/ford.shtml
        Whiteline - 22mm front p/n = BMF32 = $109.09 << gavin said this is 21mm, 20mm rear p/n = BMR47 = $109.09, or 18mm rear p/n = BMR59 = $109.09 << needs verified.
        The non-GT guys: upgrade to the GT bars. Front = 24mm, Rear = 18mm

        Strut Tower Bars:
        Purpose: Tie the strut towers together to reduce chasis flex that occurs during hard cornering; Improve handling.
        Front:
        2nd Gen bars – Will fit with minor modification. Can be found anywhere that sells 2G bars. www.probesport.com, www.pttunning.com, www.ebaymotors.com, www.procarparts.com, www.corksport.com
        1989-1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse bars – Will fit with minor modification. Refer to www.greddy.com for bar picture.
        Whiteline - Contact www.185performance.com for availability. Part number KSB606 = $122.05
        AWR Racing

        How to Modify 89-94 Mitsubishi Eclipse Front Strut Tower Bar:
        *Foreword: There are a couple of other bars available for either direct (semi) or with some modifications, but since I have this bar that is what I will detail here. The Eclipse bar is really nice to work with because it fits the strut tower exactly (except the mounting holes) – so no dremelling out the inside mount hole!
        *Note: Bars will vary. Some may need extra modifications depending on the bracket design. For the Greddy bar, you will need to use a hacksaw to remove some material before drilling.
        1. Order bar (obviously!)
        2. Assemble bar so that bar is still able to be adjusted.
        3. Lift car and secure on jack stands
        4. Use 14mm wrench and unfasten strut mounting nuts (4).
        5. Drop front struts from strut towers (do not disassemble strut assembly).
        6. Install FSTB and use a scribe (or something that will mark the hole location). Reach up from under the strut tower and mark the respective hole locations on the FSTB brackets - scribe locations of all 4 holes.
        7. Remove bar and disassemble.
        8. Drill 4 holes in each bracket. Secure 1 bracket in a vise and use an small size drill to make a starter hole and work up to the approximate size drill. Take your time!! *May need to use rat tail file to get fitment correct.
        9. Repeat with 2nd bracket.
        10. Install and secure brackets on car with struts in place. Torque all bolts to specifications (see Haynes manual).
        11. Install bar and secure.
        **Note: I solely recommend the GREDDY FSTB for the Mitsu Eclipse due to bracket design.

        Rear:
        Factory Mazda bar – Available on 90-92 Mazda MX6 GT models. Purchase at dealerships or junkyards.
        Part Numbers for Mazda OEM RSTB:
        G311-28-913A Rear Strut Tower Bar $38.55
        G311-28-9Z0 Rt Bracket $8.85
        G311-28-9Y0 Lt Bracket $8.85
        www.probesport.com
        2nd Gen bar – Will fit with minor modification. Refer to cardomain site www.cardomain.com/id/anomaly1 on page 3.

        Lower Tie Bar:
        Factory Mazda – Purchase at dealerships or junkyards.
        Mazda wants about $80 for the lower rear tie bar. (They call it a "performance rod".) Part number is G311-28-671B

        Polyurethane Endlinks:
        Energy Suspension – Front: 9.8118RC; Rear: 9.8120RC

        Engine mounts:
        Mazda dealerships, Napa, etc…
        Homemade Polyurethane mounts: http://importnut.net/motormount.htm
        AWR Racing Polyurethane mounts!
        Last edited by anomaly; February 17, 2009, 10:24 PM.
        Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
        1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
        "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

        Enjoy PT? Support it.

        Comment


        • #5
          Intakes:
          There are a couple of versions for intakes out there. Some include the factory air box and others are some form of the cone filter set up.
          With air box:
          K&N filter replacement.

          Racy-Stacey’s Ram-Air set up:
          http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...did=1701047435
          She removed the primary intake resonator from inside the fender and ran SCCA approved 3” ducting from the air box through the fender. Then connect this ducting to a 2-to-1 plastic connector. Then ran two 3” ducting pieces to the front of the car to a large collector mounted on the front fascia. She measured +5 psi positive boost (intake pressure) during testing at 70 mph.

          Cone-filter type:
          Requirements (typical): VAF adapter and Cone Filter. Generally, one is able to get these from www.ebaymotors.com for approximately $20 (shipped). Others can be found at your local auto parts store (i.e. Autozone).

          Home Depot Cold Air intake –
          *note: Can be used with stock air box or with cone filter and VAF adapter plate.
          1. Buy 3” diameter aluminum dryer ducting.
          2. Remove primary resonator from driver’s side fender.
          3. Route ducting from cone filter through fender to front of vehicle to access cooler air. See http://www.performanceprobe.com/doit...s/airram22.htm
          *note: this intake can also be routed directly into the factory air box.

          Home Depot Cold Air Intake #2 –
          *note: I did this HD CAI because of not wanting to go through the fender. Requires cone filter and VAF adapter plate.
          1. Buy 3” diameter aluminum dryer ducting (should come in 8’ length)
          2. Buy 2” diameter shop vacuum extension tube
          3. Buy wide mouthed shop vacuum adapter.
          4. Cut 2” diameter extension tube at 4” and insert into lower intercooler hole located next to the radiator. Should fit ~50/50 and snug.
          5. Attach adapter to front-facing section of adapter tube and position facing down toward road.
          6. Cut dryer duct in half and position ducting on engine side of extension tube. Route (by bending and extending ducting) to cone filter. Secure with zip ties.

          Anomaly’s CAI –
          *note: Battery Relocation to Trunk Required!!*Also: MTX Required*
          1. Buy Honda Prelude CAI (approx. years: 1995) from www.ebaymotors.com or www.procarparts.com
          2. Purchase 2 extra 3” silicon couplings (i.e., www.hosetechniques.com or local ricer shop).
          3. Buy 3’ of ¾” aluminum stock from Home Depot to make brackets with.
          4. Cut tubing into 3 sections. Section 1 should be xx” long, section 2 should be xx” long, and section 3 should be xx” long.
          5. Cut ¾” aluminum stock at 7.5”.
          6. Use ~21/64 drill to drill hole at ½” from one end.
          7. Bend 90* at 1” from end of stock (same side as hole).
          8. Bend opposite side 90* at 1” from end of stock. The bracket should look like [. With 1” flanges on each end and the center section being 5.5” long.
          9. Secure bracket to frame using battery tray bolt underneath the VAF (just in front of).
          10. Install one section of CAI tubing to VAF using 1 silicon coupling and secure the other end to the bracket using the coupling fastener.
          11. Cut another section of the aluminum bar stock at 4.5” (length).
          12. Using the ~21/64 drill, drill a hole at ~1” from the end of the aluminum bar stock.
          13. Bend the aluminum bar stock ~45* (possibly with a twist) at 3” from the end you measured the drill hole from.
          14. Using another battery tray bolt (the one on the frame closest to the headlight) secure the bracket.
          15. Test fit the remaining 2 CAI tubes for proper fit and direction.
          16. Use 3rd silicon coupling to secure the 2 tubes together.
          17. Install the 2nd half of the CAI into position using the 2nd (smaller) bracket to secure the tubes into position (again with the coupling fastener).
          18. Install Filter. *Note: It may be easier to install the filter before installing the 2nd half of the CAI.
          19. Make sure all connections are secure (VAF meter, adapter plate, fasteners, and filter) and go for a test drive!

          Intake Related:
          VAF – Vane Air Flow meter is the only option for an air meter unless you go standalone engine management. Other vehicle models (i.e. Toyota) may be used as replacement but offer no real advantage over the stock air meter. One can modify the VAF by “hacking” it but I do NOT recommend this unless you know what you are doing and have the required equipment (see www.performanceprobe.com for a how to).

          VAF Wire Harness Extension: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701303671

          Phenolic spacers:
          Here is some information on what these are good for:
          1. Thermal insulating spacers for the stock intake manifold and throttle body gaskets.
          2. Increase power by keeping the intake cooler.
          3. Lowers intake temperatures significantly (Power)
          4. Reusable
          5. No undesirable effects

          Where to Buy:
          www.outlawengineering.com = $115 + shipping.
          www.performanceprobe.com = ~$80 + shipping – Soon to be discontinued.
          Last edited by anomaly; August 22, 2011, 06:02 PM.
          Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
          1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
          "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

          Enjoy PT? Support it.

          Comment


          • #6
            Exhaust:
            Cat-back kits (bolt-on, piping, and muffler):
            Where to buy: www.nopi.com (example)
            Pacesetter – 2.375” pipe size. Mandrel bent. 2.5” dual angle cut tip. $180 to $220
            HKS – not sure if made any more.
            My recommendation: Buy a muffler you like and have a muffler shop (local) bend/weld the set up together. This way you will have your choice of pipe diameter sizes and exhaust notes. It should cost about the same as the Pacesetter kit. ~$150 for piping.

            High-flow Catalytic converters:
            Random Technology – www.randomtechnology.com Direct bolt on. Claims to be smog legal.
            Catco – Weld in catalytic converter. Low cost. Smog? ~$40 to $60
            Carsound – Manufactured by Magnaflow. Excellent products. ~$50 to $90

            Recommended exhaust pipe size for F2 engines: 2.25 inch or 2.5 inch

            Header:
            Pacesetter – only known manufacturer. Buy the black painted model (~$130) and have it custom ceramic coated for best results (i.e. www.jet-hot.com) **Read further down the thread for more information**
            Hotshot – discontinued.
            Where to buy: www.nopi.com, possibly www.ebaymotors.com, and others.

            Electrical:
            Battery – Best is Optima (red or yellow top). But beware: the posts are not on right side. You will need to be aware of this because the terminal connections might not reach the battery posts.

            Battery relocation kit:
            Moves battery to the trunk. Cost: ~$40 from www.summitracing.com. Kit comes with everything needed.

            Simple, no-bull instructions!:
            1. Remove battery/tray/bolts.
            2. Run 1/0 welding wire along the passenger side floor. you need to remove the passenger seat and a few of the cardboard floor bolts. run it under the steel channel by the seat belt.
            3. Remove the rear panels and route the wire to the rear right above the jack.
            4. hook up battery posts to the new wire in the engine compartment and connect them to the original battery posts. (huge time saver) Wrap them so they are insulated.
            5. Install your battery box and hook up the battery!

            Ignition wires:
            Magnecor KV85 Competition Plug Wires - part number #483-45105 $54.95 + Shipping www.spmotorsports.com **Excellent customer service**
            Nology Hotwires – www.nology.com, www.nopi.com ~$140
            NGK – Mazda dealerships ~$25
            PRD - www.probesport.com ~$55 **Highly recommended - excellent product**

            Ignition Coils:
            MSD Blaster 2 Coil #8202 $36.95 +Shipping from www.summitracing.com, Autozone
            Accel – Pepboys, Autozone
            Nology – www.nology.com

            MSD Blaster II install:
            - the MSD blaster 2 coil pt. number 8202 in my 2.2 N/A 1990 Ford Probe and for anyone with the extra 30 bucks this is so worth it...throttle response went up with bounds...whoever on this board said that it doesnt make that big of a difference...maybe had it in a turbo or soemthing where they didnt notice it...it breathed new life into my ignition....the install is a little different then what I saw listed on this board and performance probe.com so check out my instructions...
            1. Disconnect the connector at the bottom of the coil....it has 2 BLUE wires...and 2 Black with white wires connected to it
            2. now your Black with WHITE...is your POSITIVE and BLUE is NEGATIVE and no its not a yellow and striped blue...on the 1990 Ford Probe GL it is BLUE SOLID
            there you go anything else you can ask
            2a. but I had seen all the post saying yellow with blue stipe...so i cut the connector with the wires that had the yellow and blue stripe and the black with white...WRONG...its a Solid blue...
            - hopefully that answers any questions I urge all you nonturbo fanactics out there to this maybe hour ...30 dollar mod....you will seriously noticed the difference...and its easily explainable since we are nonturbo we cant rely on the forced air that the GT boys do so we have to get our power elsewhere....when I get the 6a box in I will post again with detailed instructions...thats next weekend....good luck


            Ground wire kit:
            http://www.geocities.com/aonthesyxxp...undingkit.html
            You can make them yourself or buy pre-assembled sets on www.ebaymotors.com
            Attach these to the engine, cylinder head, intake manifold, fuel rail, transaxle, VAF, and Alternator (typically).

            Indiglo gauges:
            Install:
            http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...indiglo+gauges
            http://www.geocities.com/onthesyxxpr...loinstall.html
            Where to buy: www.ebaymotors.com, www.procarparts.com
            My install advice: For the required 12V power source you can splice into the red with black stripe wire exiting the green plug (mine was green) on the left hand side of the steering wheel.
            Last edited by anomaly; June 14, 2004, 12:50 PM.
            Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
            1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
            "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

            Enjoy PT? Support it.

            Comment


            • #7
              H4 headlight conversion:
              Kits are available at www.ebaymotors.com , Hella, and basically any company that sells head light conversions that measure 6”x8” (this size headlight is very common). *Note: the 2nd gen headlights are 4”x6” and will NOT fit.

              A lot of people have fitment problems with the H4 conversion. The problem is the glass is usually too thick. I recommend going to Home Depot or anywhere you can buy a set of screws with nuts. You will need to buy 4 screw and 4 nuts per headlight in a similar size (thickness) to the stock fasteners (bring one with you) but they will need to be approximately 1” to 1.25” long. Drill or dremmel out the factory mounts (screw holes) if the new screw are too thick.
              *Note: If you decide to get much brighter than stock H4 light bulbs, it would be best to upgrade the wiring harness as well.

              Sleepy eye mod:
              See the install at: www.geocities.com/ricks89gl/ or read below:
              - This write up is to teach you how to use a momentary switch to control your sleepy eye headlights. I'm going to try to be as less confusing as I can, so just bare with me.
              1. Pop your hood. Take out the RETRA fuse right next to your battery. Now go pick a spot inside your car you'd like to put a switch. Mount it how you see fit, just make sure you can still get to the back of it to wire it up!
              2. Take a female connector and put it on the end of a piece of wire long enough to reach your switch, but do not hook the connector to the spot the RETRA fuse was at yet. Somewhere along this wire, run an in-line fuse, 20-30 amp, and be sure to put it where it would be easy to change if you blow the fuse.
              3. Once your fuse is in place, run the other end of the wire to your switch. Wire it up to your switch.
              4. Take a second wire and put a female connector on the end of it. Run it to your switch. Make sure your wires are in a safe place, to prevent melting or any other odd things. Make sure your fuse is good, and hook the 2 connectors to where the RETRA fuse was. That's it! Now to set your lights...
              5. Turn your headlights on. Tap the momentary switch until the lights reach the desired height. Might take a little getting used to. If you mess up, turn your headlights off and hold your switch until the lights go all the way down. Once your lights are to the desired height, leave em.
              - As long as you don't hit your switch after setting the light height, they will stay where you set them.
              Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
              1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
              "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

              Enjoy PT? Support it.

              Comment


              • #8
                Turbo information:
                F2 to F2T swap information: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...did=1701060338

                Parts list for boosting the F2:
                www.geocities.com/ricks89gl /

                Turbo an F2 Engine?
                Yea. It's doable. But you better rebuild, and get some forged internals. Where? Don't know yet, still looking. *Many companies in the industry can make custom ordered forged pistons for ~$400 to ~$600 a set. Example company: Paeco www.paeco.com *

                Well here's some information to go by.
                The GL pistons are rated for 8.6:1 CR
                The GT pistons are rated for 7.8:1 CR
                Stock GT 145hp 190ftlbs
                Stock GL 110hp 130ftlbs
                Stock GL (with turbo) 174hp 240ftlbs (7 psi of boost)

                Due to the fact that a stock GL block has 8.6:1 CR, the pressures within a boosted GL engine will be greater and it will achieve more power with less boost. But there are reliability issues to think about when doing this type of thing.

                Other than the compresion what else is different from the F2T vs the F2? Pistons! The F2T pistons are hypereutectic and the F2 pistons are cast aluminum(?).

                According to PerformanceProbe.com, the connecting rods in both engines are made of cast iron, as well as the crankshaft. The bore/stroke are the same at (3.39 x 3.70). The engine weights are different by 42 lbs., with the F2T at ~500 lbs. Now the head, the camshafts are the same, but the exhaust valuves on an F2T head have a heat- treated coating to cope with the engine heats.
                A quote: "The connecting rods look similar but are definately different, I can't vouch for make types of either, but I know the F2 N/A rods are pretty stout for the motor. I can also attest to the weight difference of the motors, GT blocks are extremely heavy. Also, although I haven't noticed a difference between the 2 heads, it is worth mentioning that the F2 are cast with the numbers F201, and GTs are cast with F220. Cams are cast with the same number in either head however. And lastly teh cranks are the same in either block (as stated) I have taken apart over 20 of these things and they all have the same crank, casting numbers and all..."

                Altho, while upping the effective compression ratio, you don't add anymore air. With the Higher CR, all you do is increase pressures in the cylinder. Since you aren't adding anymore oxygen, you don't NEED more fuel. Except maybe to keep temps down in the cylinder. However, stock tuning should run rich enough that you would be OK with the upped effective compression ratio. This is considering you use the GT fuel setup.

                This parts list was taken from a thread by Natro.
                1.Exhaust manifold gasket
                2.Exhaust manifold (including EGR connection nut)
                3.IHI Turbo
                4.IHI Turbo to down pipe connector
                5.Down pipe
                6.Intercooler
                7.Intercooler piping and intake piping
                8.Bypass valve with bypass valve tube connector
                9.Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket
                10.Turbo down pipe connector to down pipe gasket
                11.O2 sensor
                12.GT fuel injectors
                Some other parts needed are
                1.Vacuum hose 20 ft (preferably silicone)
                2.Turbo oil in fitting (Home depot, brass)
                3.Oil tap fitting for block (fits into oil pressure sensor hole, Home depot, brass fittings)
                4.Plastic T's for coolant taps and clamps for every hose
                5.Oil hoses, in and out. (6 bar pressure resistance)
                6. Coolant hoses in and out (pressure resistant)
                8. Brass oil pan tap (for turbo oil return)
                We recommend that the oil drain hose be at least 1/2", as oil draining from the turbo is not pressurized, and therefore has more volume than the oil going in...
                Last edited by anomaly; November 10, 2004, 01:56 PM.
                Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
                1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
                "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

                Enjoy PT? Support it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Brakes:
                  http://www.hyedracyl.com/probe.html
                  Stainless steel braided brake lines by Goodridge www.nopi.com ~$90
                  Gavin's full brake modifications:http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread...ghlight=brakes

                  Rear disc conversion:
                  How-to: I’d assume Haynes manual for removal of drums and installation of disk brakes.
                  Go to a junk yard and strip the rear brakes from a GT model.
                  Items needed:
                  -rotors
                  -calipers
                  -pads
                  -brake hoses
                  -spindle/hub
                  -parking brake cables
                  -proportioning valve

                  ATX to MTX Swap info:
                  http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...post1923680667
                  http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701088749

                  Transaxle:
                  Flywheels:
                  Performance flywheels will help your engine put more of the power to the ground and allow the engine to rev much more freely due to the decrease in rotating mass.
                  Stock – you can shave a couple pounds off the stock flywheel for *some* performance gains
                  Unorthodox Racing – 9 lb. weight
                  Fidanza – 9 lb.
                  www.nopi.com, www.pttuning.com, and others.

                  Clutches:
                  Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) – www.advancedclutch.com
                  Clutch Masters – www.clutchmasters.com
                  Sachs – www.nopi.com (OE replacement)

                  Camshafts:
                  Stock specs:
                  Cam Lift (Intake): 0.210''
                  Cam Lift (Exhaust): 0.230''
                  Duration at .050'' Lobe Lift (Intake): 197 Deg
                  Duration at .050'' Lobe Lift (Exhaust): 208 Deg
                  Valve Lash (Intake): Hydraulic
                  Valve Lash (Exhaust): Hydraulic

                  They don't look like much, but in the turbo Probe application, the same cam in still used - Mazda accomodated the different breathing characteristics of the turbo models by using special heat-treated physically longer exhaust valves.

                  There are no aftermarket cams available. But companies such as Crower can perform regrinds for ~$80.
                  ***Warning*** If you decide to get a cam regrind make sure it is no "wilder" than the crower cam regrind. It is fairly mild, but at least your car *should* run properly. I had to find out the hard way with a cam regrind that was "wilder" than the crower cam. The GT (turbo) models will probably benefit from a regrind that is wilder than the crower regrind, though.

                  Body kits:
                  Kaotic Innovations newly created 1st gen body kit. No longer available due to KI going out of business. cybervampyre has the only known KI kit.
                  www.nopi.com – Erebuni and Razzi body kits
                  www.andysautosports.com – AAS newly created 1st gen body kit.
                  Here is a link with images of all the different body kits that *might* be available: http://georg.wollenhaupt.bei.t-onlin...m/bodykits.htm
                  ***NOTE: For most of these body kits (I believe all but the Andy's kit) will require that you NOT have a GT model. That is because they are not full bumper replacements, they are just front lips, and the GT models have extra gear on them. To use a kit you like (except for AAS), go to a junk yard and buy a GL or LX front bumper, install the kit, paint, and install onto your ride.

                  Clear corners, Altezzas, etc...
                  None available.
                  Any that are found were custom made and numerous attempts have been set in motion to get them produced but all failed.
                  Last edited by anomaly; August 5, 2009, 05:17 PM.
                  Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
                  1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
                  "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

                  Enjoy PT? Support it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Now if this doesn't answer the majority of Frequently Asked Questions then...

                    Congratulations!!!

                    You are completely lost! FUBAR! BATN!

                    Well, you get the point!
                    Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
                    1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
                    "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

                    Enjoy PT? Support it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Awesome post

                      All the GL guys should love you now

                      Sticky it!
                      Chris DiMarco
                      NNJ?! -> NCPOC

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        damn, you weren't kidding when you said you had this almost finished todd.



                        and say hello to the new 1G moderator.
                        ProbeTalk is BACK! Once again, it's what you use the Internet for!

                        Let's get DANGEROUS!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yeah, just have to flesh some spots out a little more as I come across the information and add new information as it becomes available.

                          But 13 pages in an MS Word document sits right here for all to study from!

                          And for the Turbo and Vulcan 3.0 guys: I'd be more than happy to add the information to this thread provided one (or more) of you get together and collect the information, make it concise while still being understandable, and include links where applicable.

                          I am the new 1G mod!

                          <The crowd cheers repeatedly>
                          Balls Across The Nose, Balls Across The Nose...

                          Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
                          1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
                          "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

                          Enjoy PT? Support it.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Update:

                            Took a little while to find this thread, but here it is:

                            Q. What are some good online web sites for 1st gens?

                            A.
                            http://www.spmotorsports.com
                            http://www.nopi.com
                            http://www.overboost.com
                            http://www.jcwhitney.com
                            http://www.shox.com
                            http://www.summitracing.com
                            http://www.probesport.com
                            http://www.corksport.com
                            http://www.gaugepods.com
                            Walbro fuel pumps:
                            http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com
                            manual boost controllers/a/f meter
                            http://www.dawesdevices.com
                            http://www.splitsec.com
                            http://www.moranav6racing.com
                            http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/ford_probe.html
                            http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=829
                            http://www.ptuning.com
                            http://www.venom-performance.com
                            http://www.performancemarket.com/prod-a.htm
                            http://www.aluminumflywheels.com/flywheels.html
                            http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?...&AppID=4860
                            http://www.jetchip.com
                            http://www.rr-racing.com
                            http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/web...g?storeId=10001
                            http://www.nology.com/home.html (go to Nopi.com for cheaper deals)
                            http://probetalk.com
                            http://www.gaugepods.com/probe.html
                            http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/accessories
                            http://www.splitsec.com
                            http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html
                            http://www.painlessperformance.com
                            http://groups.msn.com/1stgenMX6Prob...t/products.msnw <---Jay B's Products
                            http://www.mickeythompsontires.com
                            http://www.msdignition.com
                            http://www.extrudehone.com
                            http://www.centerforce.com/generalinfo.htm
                            http://www.hirevtuners.com/site/home.php
                            http://www.crower.com
                            http://www.probeparts.com
                            http://www.jgstools.com/turbo
                            http://www.geocities.com/knightturbos

                            Q. What are some good informational sites for my car?

                            A.
                            Informational Sites:
                            http://www.automotivedetailing.com
                            http://webcentrix.net/probe/specs.html
                            http://www.howstuffworks.com/turbo5.htm
                            http://members.cox.net/turboprobe/modspage.htm
                            http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
                            http://www.performanceprobe.com
                            Last edited by 89TurboGT; September 19, 2004, 09:19 PM.
                            Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
                            1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
                            "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

                            Enjoy PT? Support it.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Todd Ive been way busy with the GT thats why I didnt get back to you but Ill pitch in now....my blaster 2 install hell I forgot I even wrote that



                              Checking your manual Transaxle Fluid

                              This Is an easy Process that some newbies to the F2 may wonder about....and yes guys it is important even for us MTX guys to check....Simple as this....Use a 10mm socket and ratchet....wrench if you are brave and follow the speedometer cable down into the transaxle case....remove the bolt at the end of the cable that holds it in place....SLOWLY pull the speedometer gear out of the transaxle....and be very careful...I do believe the gear is a mylar type material and very easily break....from there you can check the level of the fluid on the gear....FULL is up to the lip right above the gear....anything below the top of the gear is low and its time to add....reinsert gear...and once again go slow with it...dont force....then tighted pack up your bolt and your finished
                              OnTheSyxxProductions (My PGL and PGT Includes other Domestics Lots of Pics/Info
                              Member of the Hardcore GL Tuners Association
                              1990PGL - 1993 PGT (ATX)
                              RIP FEB 6/07/2004 -- You will be missed
                              Current Project: Brembo/Hawk HPS installed -- Corbeaus Due soon

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