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Old July 24th, 2016, 05:32 AM   #101
Stanced4lyfe
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Originally Posted by 94BANSHEE View Post
Hi stanced4lyfe...so what camber plates are u using? Im trying to find some too.
like you said, they are 250 EACH from ksport..so expensive.
Anyone have good options out there besides stock?
I used Universal camber plates for the fronts. Had a friend who Is real good with custom work drill and bolt everything up.

For the rears Ima just use stocks because it's either ksport protege5 camber plates in the rear or a full coilover set from ceika in UK which is $1600 shipped but you get dampening, camber plates front and rear and full adjustment of the coilovers. I just didn't want to pay that much for a set of coils.
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Old August 10th, 2016, 07:05 PM   #102
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I got a text saying my front coils were done! He also told me he thinks he can get the rears too wor so hopefully that turns out well but I'm happy to have my coils back.

Picking them up Saturday and will take pictures.

I really want to buy the rear diffuser but bills are telling me not this pay lol oh well maybe next pay.
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Old August 15th, 2016, 06:16 AM   #103
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So I got my coilovers back front and rear. All assembled ready to go. I'll start test fitting when I find some time. Had a very close family member pass away so I've been with family all weekend and will be pretty much all week.

Next on the list of things to buy is

-Rear diffuser
-H&R camber bolts
-King6 or megan racing adjustable trailing arms
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Old August 23rd, 2016, 06:51 AM   #104
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I have more goodies on the way!! Getting excited because I've finally bought that one major part I really wanted.

Will update when they get here.
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Old August 25th, 2016, 08:23 AM   #105
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Ok so a few change of plans after looking around some more.

This is the rear diffuser I bought and plan on custom fitting.



Also decided to sell the s2k lip and go with this instead.



Next pay should be buying the lip but for now it's getting the wheels fitted correctly and putting all my other parts on.

Need to fix the timing belt and get the stuck spark plug boots out so I can get her running again and moving around.

Last edited by Stanced4lyfe; July 26th, 2017 at 08:38 PM.
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Old August 26th, 2016, 10:54 AM   #106
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really need to see this build finish it, it would be a damn nice thing !
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Old August 26th, 2016, 04:32 PM   #107
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really need to see this build finish it, it would be a damn nice thing !
I'm trying! It's a slow build but it will happen trust me. I'm serious about it and want to see it completed just as much as you do.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 06:35 AM   #108
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So I've been doing some work on the probe and this bish hates me lol. I got the rear subframe out but 3 of the subframe bolts snapped off and only one came out correctly ggrrreeeaatt!!! Now I have to figure out how to get the other half out and replace them.



And then things got better! Let me quit lying no they didn't lol the bottom strut bolt on the rear passenger side is seized in there. Nut came off but the bolt is stuck smh.

Then the bolts that hold the speed sensor to the hub snapped off on both sides. Perfect way to start off my rear subframe removal.

So after all that bs I finally get it out.



If anybody can give me tips or advice on fixing my current problems it would be great so I can go buy what I need.

Also what's the best way to remove the links from the frame? That one long ass bolt won't budge I even used an impact wrench on it and nothing.

I also can't get the camber bolts out or just majority of the bolts period.

Last edited by Stanced4lyfe; July 26th, 2017 at 08:43 PM.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 10:21 AM   #109
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On the stuck bolt shafts -what I have always done that works more than 50% of the time is to cut them off flush and then center punch the cut stub. Re-drill (and this is the part that your accuracy affects the 50% rating) -as close to center as you can possibly keep the drill and as close as perpendicular as possible. Then re-tap. If your drill wanders off center -your chances drop to much less than 50%. If you do not go slow with your tap and use tapping oil (or suitable sub) -your chances decrease. If you do not use a sharp (newish) tap -your chances decrease.

But I have actually had a lot of success at doing it this way.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 07:47 AM   #110
Stanced4lyfe
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On the stuck bolt shafts -what I have always done that works more than 50% of the time is to cut them off flush and then center punch the cut stub. Re-drill (and this is the part that your accuracy affects the 50% rating) -as close to center as you can possibly keep the drill and as close as perpendicular as possible. Then re-tap. If your drill wanders off center -your chances drop to much less than 50%. If you do not go slow with your tap and use tapping oil (or suitable sub) -your chances decrease. If you do not use a sharp (newish) tap -your chances decrease.

But I have actually had a lot of success at doing it this way.
So I need a cutoff wheel, a good drill and drill bits and a tap and die set?
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Old September 7th, 2016, 04:57 PM   #111
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So I have yet to attempt to get the rest of the snapped bolts out :/. I'll try this weekend when I have more time from work.

Good news though, I just bought my awr 19mm sway bar kit, King6 sway bar adapters for my megan links and trailing arms and King6 hei mod harness so more goodies are on the way.

I also have majority of the rear end parts ready to be replaced. New brake pads, rotors, calipers, brake lines, ebrake cables, coilovers, trailing links, trailing arms, sway bar, adjustable end links and camber bolts!

Updated mods list.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 04:39 PM   #112
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I took the rear subframe to a machine shop to see what they can do. They told me it was rusted so badthe bolts would just snap in half and it wouldn't be cost effective for me sigh.

I don't know what to do now. I would attempt myself like I said I would but I really don't know what I'm doing nor do I want to make it worse.

If anybody has a rear subframe for sale in good condition I would gladly take it!
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Old September 8th, 2016, 06:23 PM   #113
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Another way to free seized nuts/bolts is to heat the nut cherry red-hot, then spray it with water to instantly cool it. This shocks the pieces and helps to break the bond. Not sure if this will work in your case though

Really looking forward to the finished product that your working with though! Keep up the hard work
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Old September 8th, 2016, 07:34 PM   #114
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So I have yet to attempt to get the rest of the snapped bolts out :/. I'll try this weekend when I have more time from work.
pm sent
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Old September 9th, 2016, 07:01 AM   #115
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Another way to free seized nuts/bolts is to heat the nut cherry red-hot, then spray it with water to instantly cool it. This shocks the pieces and helps to break the bond. Not sure if this will work in your case though

Really looking forward to the finished product that your working with though! Keep up the hard work
Yeah people been giving me ideas and a coworker said he would help me Sunday.

It's crazy because I went to school for automotive but I can't remove a seized bolt smh.

Thanks you for the compliment and keeping up with my build. This gives me motivation to keep going
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Old September 9th, 2016, 11:40 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by Stanced4lyfe View Post
I took the rear subframe to a machine shop to see what they can do. They told me it was rusted so bad -the bolts would just snap in half and it wouldn't be cost effective for me sigh.

I don't know what to do now. I would attempt myself like I said I would but I really don't know what I'm doing nor do I want to make it worse.

If anybody has a rear sub-frame for sale in good condition I would gladly take it!
Are you talking about the long bolts (pivots) at the bottom of the hub carrier? I have had those stuck several times before. I tried beating them out and I only ended up mushrooming the end. So that was a no-go! I finally ended up cutting the bolts in the center exposed section and leaving penetrating oil on the exposed ends for several days. Then I heated them with a torch and beat them out. Cutting the center section out -makes it so that only one end is frozen at a time. It makes it easier to get the individual sections out vs. trying to get the entire length out while being held by two frozen segments.
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Old September 9th, 2016, 01:05 PM   #117
Stanced4lyfe
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Are you talking about the long bolts (pivots) at the bottom of the hub carrier? I have had those stuck several times before. I tried beating them out and I only ended up mushrooming the end. So that was a no-go! I finally ended up cutting the bolts in the center exposed section and leaving penetrating oil on the exposed ends for several days. Then I heated them with a torch and beat them out. Cutting the center section out -makes it so that only one end is frozen at a time. It makes it easier to get the individual sections out vs. trying to get the entire length out while being held by two frozen segments.
Yes those stupid ass bolts! The main ones giving me a problem. Then the bottom strut bolt on the passenger side rear then the speed sensor bolt on both sides all snapped off.

The middle bolts on the subframe just need something to hold the nut then they should come off. I tried a wrench but wouldn't fit up there. Ima try a rachet and socket too hold it next.

I can't thank y'all enough for all the advice and help. I really appreciate it!
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Old September 9th, 2016, 01:34 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by KLZE Porsche View Post
Are you talking about the long bolts (pivots) at the bottom of the hub carrier? I have had those stuck several times before. I tried beating them out and I only ended up mushrooming the end. So that was a no-go! I finally ended up cutting the bolts in the center exposed section and leaving penetrating oil on the exposed ends for several days. Then I heated them with a torch and beat them out. Cutting the center section out -makes it so that only one end is frozen at a time. It makes it easier to get the individual sections out vs. trying to get the entire length out while being held by two frozen segments.
I've done them two ways, massive snap on air hammer on the end with someone applying torque with a breaker bar on the bolt head. (usually results in ruined bolts) and also heating the knuckle ends where the bolts pass through and pounding the bolt out (leave a nut on the end)
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Old September 15th, 2016, 10:44 AM   #119
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I'm still waiting on my parts to get here :/. Awr is waiting for my sway bar to come back from powder coating and Darren at king6 is now making my adapters after a few measurements from me for my Megan links.

While I'm waiting on them I might as well start putting the coils and brake parts on the front. Crossing my fingers hoping nothing snaps off.
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Old September 15th, 2016, 06:16 PM   #120
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While I'm waiting on them I might as well start putting the coils and brake parts on the front. Crossing my fingers hoping nothing snaps off.

use ky jelly this time lol



did you try the idea I pm you the videos about and if so did you have any luck


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Old September 16th, 2016, 09:37 AM   #121
Stanced4lyfe
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use ky jelly this time lol



did you try the idea I pm you the videos about and if so did you have any luck


Lol I'll spray more pb blaster. No I have not tried yet. I'm waiting for funds for the right tools to get the job done.

I finally got my own place so I need to start buying furniture considering I move in Oct. 14th.

I'm trying to get the car on the ground before then and running. Hopefully I will.
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Old September 17th, 2016, 08:16 PM   #122
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Lol I'll spray more pb blaster. No I have not tried yet. I'm waiting for funds for the right tools to get the job done.

I finally got my own place so I need to start buying furniture considering I move in Oct. 14th.

I'm trying to get the car on the ground before then and running. Hopefully I will.

yep having the right tools means alot


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Old September 17th, 2016, 10:39 PM   #123
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Just drill those old ones out,drill a hole about a half inch up 9n the side of the frame rail enough to get a 14mm nut in there, and just nut and bolt the subrame and cover the hole you made with a firewall plug, been there done that
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Old September 20th, 2016, 11:27 AM   #124
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Just drill those old ones out,drill a hole about a half inch up 9n the side of the frame rail enough to get a 14mm nut in there, and just nut and bolt the subrame and cover the hole you made with a firewall plug, been there done that
Would you have like a step by step of this?
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Old September 20th, 2016, 04:36 PM   #125
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Whenever I snap a bolt, I just weld a nut to the remaining part, let it cool a little and remove it. The heat from the welding seems to expand the bolt enough to crack any corrosion and out it comes, works every time.

The thought of drilling out a bolt makes me cringe now.
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