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OK, here goes starting from the front to the back.
- 1st thing: Do NOT connect the power cable to the battery until the VERY end.
- Eyehole connector that will fit 4 gauge at the + battery terminal
- You'll also need an inline fuse holder (like $5-$8). Depending on the amp, it's usually 30A per amp...I would try a 30A fuse 1st and if it blows (which I really don't think it will, try a 40A fuse).
- Install the fuse holder close to the battery (like 5 or 6 inches or something. Doesn't need to be exactly right there, just make sure it's a little ways away).
- The 4 gauge might be a little pain to get through the firewall. There should be a rubber gromet on the driver's side of the firewall. Take a light and check, also sheck from the inside as it may be easier to see. You may have to squeeze it through an already in use grommet, next to another wire.
- Once run through the firewall, run it along side the car, to the back.
- I'm assuming you'll only have this 1 amp so you may not be using a distribution block...in that case go ahead and connect the power cable to the B+ or power+ or + or whatever the amp says. (The cable isn't hooked up so not to worry about sparks)
- If you are using a distribution block, run the 4 gauge into it and then run some 8 gauge out from there to the + input on the amp, like above. (Use a 30A fuse in the block).
- The remote wire (or turn on or P.conn) you'll need to run from the back of the headunit to the amp.
- If using an aftermarket deck, it'll be the (or one of) the blue wires. Should say remote or p.conn or whatever. Connect one end here and run the other end (preferrably the same side as the power cable to reduce noise, although people have said that it's not enough to cause noise I disagree). Connect this to ( :smile: here we go again, the p.conn or remote, or turn on, or just the smallest of the 3 inputs on the amp...right next to the power or ground).
- If you have a factory deck, you'll need to use an ignition source. Get a meter or test light and the wire you're looking for will have power with the ignition, obviously. You might have a "popping" sound when you turn the ignition on or off...you can get a delay switch for the amp which will eliminate this.
- The ground shouldn't be very long and should be stripped of all paint before bolting it down. The amp should clearly state to where the ground goes. A good ground will give you a reading of 0.002 or less with a meter (I believe), using the beep function...continuity test.
- Good ground are usually the sealbelt bolts and under the seat. Use an eyehole connector with a washer on top to ground it. Selftappers work wonders here.
- You'll also need to run RCA's. Run them on the OPPOSITE side of the power cable! If using an aftermarket deck , check to see if it has non-fading or subwoofer pre-outs. If yes, then hook it to these, if not the rear or front will do.
- If you have a factory deck, you'll need a hi-lo level converter which splices into the speaker leads and converts em to rca outputs.
- Run the sub bridged...if it's a 4 ohm sub and not dual voice coil. There should be a little diagram or something on the amp saying bridged + and bridged - for the sub.
- When running it bridged on a 2 channel amp, make sure you select it ont he amp itself. If it's in stereo you'll wonder why there's no sound :smile:
- Now go back to the front and connect the eyehole connector to the + battery terminal. It may spark a little...
- You're now ready to crank it up. If everything went well you'll hear a lot of boom. :grin: