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The big MegaSquirt guide for 2nd gen Probe GTs

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  • #16
    ON part 62-J should I get the "new" diode D24 - 1N4148DICT-ND or the "older" one is fine ??
    Is there noticeable difference on the respond time or I'll be fine with D24 - 1N4001DICT-ND (old).

    BTW it comes with 36-1 but i have cam gear VR input sensor , MSP has dual input sensor to control coils.

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    • #17
      You could use either one, though the old one is more likely to need a resistor installed in line with the VR sensor.
      Matt at DIYAutoTune.com
      My PM box fills up fast - it's much better to email me at websales@diyautotune.com

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      • #18
        About that D24 diode would this be the same diode as the one from digikey :
        1N914/4148-Type Diode
        Model: 1N914 | Catalog #: 276-1122
        http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062576
        from radioshack.

        the one at digikey will take a bit longer but this one from radioshack looks that it is a 1N4148 type diode too?
        Last edited by Speed3.5; July 10, 2009, 10:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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        • #19
          That looks like it's the same thing.
          Matt at DIYAutoTune.com
          My PM box fills up fast - it's much better to email me at websales@diyautotune.com

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          • #20
            thnx matt

            I'll do the last step then.

            about boost-mod kit , you mentioned the diode(1N4002) isn't needed , should I install it anyways or just not ?

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            • #21
              Wouldn't hurt to put one in if you have it.
              Matt at DIYAutoTune.com
              My PM box fills up fast - it's much better to email me at websales@diyautotune.com

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              • #22
                I have some more question:

                1- On the boost-mod kit , where do I connect the Gate 'leg' of IRLZ44 ?
                What fuse needs to be between the valve and pin-3 of MSII ?
                That +12v ignition feed line where can I get/connect it ?

                2-do you have "how to" install the relay control-kit ?

                3-for the BIP-373 ignition module, you pick one of the of the given output-input and output-board ?
                I'm not getting the connection of BIP-373 pins since you cross info on each step and makes things unclear.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Speed3.5 View Post
                  I have some more question:

                  1- On the boost-mod kit , where do I connect the Gate 'leg' of IRLZ44 ?
                  To the pair of resistors shown in the schematic.

                  What fuse needs to be between the valve and pin-3 of MSII ?
                  5 amps is plenty.

                  That +12v ignition feed line where can I get/connect it ?
                  Find a suitable wire in your harness and splice it.

                  2-do you have "how to" install the relay control-kit ?
                  Yes, right this way.

                  3-for the BIP-373 ignition module, you pick one of the of the given output-input and output-board ?
                  I'm not getting the connection of BIP-373 pins since you cross info on each step and makes things unclear.
                  I'm not sure I understand the question. This article covers how to set up the BIPs for a 36-1 trigger wheel:

                  http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...s_overview.htm

                  Let me know if you have any specific questions about it - the more specific you make the questions, the better I can answer them.
                  Matt at DIYAutoTune.com
                  My PM box fills up fast - it's much better to email me at websales@diyautotune.com

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Matt Cramer View Post
                    To the pair of resistors shown in the schematic.
                    Well I understand that I have to connect with those 2 resistors like in shcematic but my concern was about the pin where to connect 100R .
                    On that same page as schematic right below it shows the Boost Control Setting pic and it shows that JS11 was used in that case, would that be perfect pin to choose ?

                    5 amps is plenty.
                    Got it.


                    Find a suitable wire in your harness and splice it.
                    That will be the igniton wire that I'll have to splice in to or can I get the +12 from inside the board like the band'ed(left leg) side of D9 ?


                    Ok , read this page and it stated that for MSII-v3 you don't really need to do this since you could use the Stepper IAC 'empty' pins or FIDLE?
                    BTW I FIDDLE is to control PWM solenoid right ?

                    You provided a link at that page for MSII-V3 about spare pins and it looks like the same schematic you had on your page.
                    Can I connect 1k resistor to JS3 or JS4(NOS/METH) as input for the relay-mod ?
                    Now in this pic the Relay is that an example of relay/something that would be controlled by this "mod" ?
                    That 86 port would be connected to a +12v source from inside the baoard as well right, can you connect more then 1 wire to left side of D9 for +12v source and jumped to port 87 as well ?

                    For a simple on/off but tricked off from boost/psi type of thing how would you suggest connection of "collector" side of transistor or would be easire to do it through one of the spare pins ?
                    This would be for controlling my METH kit.

                    BTW - how can I controll/run/set-up shift-light and launch controll ?

                    I'm not sure I understand the question. This article covers how to set up the BIPs for a 36-1 trigger wheel:

                    http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...s_overview.htm
                    I think i got that one but I'm running into another issue.
                    Issue is that to connect Q16 left leg which is IGBIN to a wire with 330ohm resistor to top leg of R26 but for High current drive jumpers IGBIN has to be jumped with JS10 ?

                    About the boost control transistor , which one is leg D, G, S ?
                    I can connect the banded side of its diode(IN4002) to a +12v source from the inside the board as well right ?
                    I'm planning to use SPR1 as output pin to boost solenoid.

                    About PWM- that 1N4001 diode that need to be across the PWM idle valve, its banded side can be connected to a +12v inside the board or the actual PWM idle valve +12v wire ?
                    Its non-banded side has to connect to Pin30 wire right ?


                    Lots of small things but want to do it right w/o de-soldering them , lol

                    Thnx as always for the help
                    Last edited by Speed3.5; July 20, 2009, 10:35 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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                    • #25
                      One more thing, Q19 , when facing it from its flat side the left and central leg have continuity somehow, I don't see it having any connection to the each other leg so ......sugg/help?
                      I have an extra one, should I replace it or that's alright for Q19 ?

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                      • #26
                        Well I understand that I have to connect with those 2 resistors like in shcematic but my concern was about the pin where to connect 100R .
                        On that same page as schematic right below it shows the Boost Control Setting pic and it shows that JS11 was used in that case, would that be perfect pin to choose ?
                        You may use JS11 or any other valid, unused boost output pin. Just be sure to set it right in MegaTune.

                        One more thing, Q19 , when facing it from its flat side the left and central leg have continuity somehow, I don't see it having any connection to the each other leg so ......sugg/help?
                        I have an extra one, should I replace it or that's alright for Q19 ?
                        Check the schematics, there's a 1 ohm resistor across these legs so they're close to shorted out.

                        MS2/Extra does not use JS10 as a spark output, and the article gives which pins are valid for triggering on/off outputs.
                        Matt at DIYAutoTune.com
                        My PM box fills up fast - it's much better to email me at websales@diyautotune.com

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          So that should be OK for Q19 having continuity between its top and middle leg ?

                          Should I take off the jumper connecting IGBTIN to JS10 or leave it and continue with BIP-373 install like the article states.

                          NOTE: High current drive states to do these jumpers:
                          1-IGBTIN to JS10
                          2-IGBTOUT to IGN
                          I wasn't choosing JS10 as output.

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                          • #28
                            If you are using our write up, JS10 is used for second trigger, not spark output.
                            Matt at DIYAutoTune.com
                            My PM box fills up fast - it's much better to email me at websales@diyautotune.com

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                            • #29
                              So I'll take off the jumper IGBTIN TO JS10 and link IGBTIN to 330ohm that's connected to top R26.

                              About COP , since MSP can use Miatas 99+ Coil packs can I still control my stock COP with BIP-373's , what hardware modification are done for MIATA 99+ ?

                              BTW- IGBT Pull-up Circuit , is that needed and if so does it matter if 5v or 12v pull up?
                              From 65-d : there's a schematic showing R43 being shortened and it also shows IGBTIN is jumped with JS10, what do u say about those 2 things ?
                              Last edited by Speed3.5; July 22, 2009, 08:54 PM.

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                              • #30
                                Are you using COPs with internal or external ignitors?
                                Matt at DIYAutoTune.com
                                My PM box fills up fast - it's much better to email me at websales@diyautotune.com

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