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  • New here, but 3rd probe for me

    Sorry for breaking any forum rules, i didn't see any welcome areas like most of my other forums. Anyway, i just picked up my 3rd probe that i've owned, this being a 94 se i believe, the 2nd was a 93 base, and the first was an 89 lx. Anyway, picked this up as a commuter since my truck's averaging about 12mpg. There is SO much that needs doing/undoing. Anyway, the biggest todo item on the list is fixing a hard brake pedal.

    I started by swapping the booster for one i got at one of the local self service yards(3 cheers for employee discount-no fee to get in) and replacing the drum wheel cylinders, and they got better. Before there was little to no travel with the hard pedal, but now it does move, but still stiff.

    I'm thinking i may have gotten a bad unit, but i would like to know the average vacuum the 2.0 makes so i can try doing some additional troubleshooting before shotgunning more parts into the system. I have an electric vacuum pump that i use for brake bleeding, and will pull and hold around 16-18 inches of vacuum until i release the pressure, and wanna try using it for testing the booster.

    Thanks in advance

  • #2
    Originally posted by 60ratrod View Post
    ... the biggest todo item on the list is fixing a hard brake pedal...
    Check the check valve that is internal to the hose from intake manifold to booster. If that has been turned around backwards -you will not have the luxury of power braking. And it may even cause the engine to run poorly due to a vac leak through the booster unit. I found one like this before. Swapped the hose ends around -problem fixed!

    You cannot see this valve externally in the hose. You will just have to remove it and try blowing on either end of it to determine direction. The hose should be installed so that you are blowing to the intake manifold.

    Re-thinking that -it would not necessarily have a leak because the vacuum would stop at the check valve. So you just would not get vac to the booster.
    Last edited by KLZE Porsche; February 26, 2018, 03:32 PM.
    Success is a measure of determination!
    Bonneville Dreamer-(AKA Purple Pimp Mobile)
    $500 Gas-Electric-Gas Reconversion/Restoration
    Mini-me & 500k "Old Gal" RIP
    Restoration of a legend

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks man! I'm fairly certain that the hose is on wrong then since it runs kinda like it's got a bad leak, with an inconsistent idle fully stopped, and a lingering idle while slowing down with the clutch in, just like on a motorcycle

      Comment


      • #4
        Found the problem. The check valve had failed closed. I can't suck or blow through either end

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by 60ratrod View Post
          Found the problem. The check valve had failed closed. I can't suck or blow through either end
          You might be able to soak it in carburetor cleaner long enough to loosen up the check ball -but don't leave it in there too long or it will eat the hose. After you have let it sit for an hour or two -flush it out with high pressure water (both directions). That might do the trick.

          If not and you still need one and can't find one in your local junk yards (common piece for many many cars) -then let me know and I may have a spare. But as long as you find one with a good usable length -it should work from most any car that has a similar hose with check valve. Just go around the yard looking at imports and pull the hose off and give it the blow check both ways to check function. I picked a bunch of them from 626 cars the last time I was in the yard.

          Good to hear that you found it! Probes are much fun when running -and not so much when they aren't.
          Success is a measure of determination!
          Bonneville Dreamer-(AKA Purple Pimp Mobile)
          $500 Gas-Electric-Gas Reconversion/Restoration
          Mini-me & 500k "Old Gal" RIP
          Restoration of a legend

          Comment


          • #6
            I got one from pull and save, and didn't even get charged for it. But i had to go back to get a stock air box since the cold air intake isn't carb approved and the shop i'm at wouldn't touch it for emissions diagnostics so i can get a waiver to get it registered. But it runs way better with the stock stuff. Hopefully i can get back to get it tested and waived again today. And what sucks is 94 is the last model year to get emissions this year. Missed the cutoff by that >< much(imagine those as my fingers).

            And believe me i know how fun they are. When i had my 93, i'd take it down back roads late at night when i was bored, taking turns at like 70. Smart, um hell no, but fun as hell? Totally. These cars handle great from the factory, sad Frod torpedoed the car with the name. Tbh, i'm not a Ford person, but i'm ok with probes since they're just a cross dressing Mazda mx6��������
            Last edited by 60ratrod; February 27, 2018, 05:29 PM.

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            • #7
              So found something useful during the diagnosis, cylinder 3 is pretty much dead with only 50psi, and the shop tech thinks the intake valves aren't opening because the plug was dry. I took the valve cover off, and didn't see anythingreally wrong top side.

              What would cause a dead cylinder like that? Am i truely in for a head job? A dead lung would kinda explain the bad idle

              Comment


              • #8
                So i found somethings when taking the head off. First, the bolts around #4 exhaust header port were loose, explaining the exhaust leak i was hearing. Second, the intake gasket was coated in anti-sieze, may have been part of the problem, but all the intake bolts were nice and tight. Third, almost all of the exhaust cam cap bolts were loose, like i could undo most of them with just my hand, but the end cap bolts were tight, so there's that. Not sure if that was helping. Fourth, the head gasket was also coated in anti-sieze, which makes cleaning easy, but makes me wonder how well the gasket actually sealed, but all the head bolts seemed to have been torqued to spec. And last, the #3 piston looked cleaner than the other 3, and not oily like bad rings, so the head is going to a head shop to get checked out. But from what the shop told me, looking into the head isn't gonna cost me, the rebuild will, if it needs a full build, which will be $300 plus parts. I may just have them go and do the works on it so i know i have a good base line with the head and know what the cylinders look like. My guess since i didn't see anything obvious in the chambers is that the head may be warped around #3 and the anti-sieze wasn't helping it seal

                Comment


                • #9
                  Was the "grease" copper color? I used some copper gasket spray on my intake before and when I took off the intake it mixed with oil from the PCV, valve (I suppose,) it looked kind of like an oily mess, was on a V6 also. Welcome.
                  Probe out for Harambe
                  94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                  • #10
                    if cyl3 was clean then coolant was getting in, hopefully its just a bad rebuild job and the head gasket leaked and everything else can be fixed!
                    Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
                    Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
                    Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

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                    • #11
                      Could also have been injector failed in closed position. But you need a new shop tech. Any shop tech that says that a dry plug is from a valve not opening -needs to get a new line of work as a hair dresser or some other low skilled work .
                      Success is a measure of determination!
                      Bonneville Dreamer-(AKA Purple Pimp Mobile)
                      $500 Gas-Electric-Gas Reconversion/Restoration
                      Mini-me & 500k "Old Gal" RIP
                      Restoration of a legend

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        It wasn't like perfect and sparkling, but less fired than the others. But it also wasn't white like it's been steam cleabing itself either. So i'm thinking maybe a warped head

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          So i managed to get up early enough to drop the head off with the head shop, which is a good shop according to all the guys i work with, and they've already checked out the head. 14 of the 16 valves aren't sealing, so i'm having the head reworked. But that explains a lot about how it was idling, maybe not the high hydrocarbon fail(2500rpm "cruise" failed for 1800ish hc count, passing is 400 hc count), but progressive steps to having a good running car. Next will be yo rip out the moldy carpet and replace it with carpet from one at pull and save, and i got the carpet i want picked out

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                          • #14
                            So the head's been rebuilt and installed. Runs way better, but still has a lingering idle(2300ish on the dash before coming to a full stop) and looks like a high idle of about 1200-1500, oh and still fails emissions, but got a waiver and now will never have to worry about it again since 94 is the last emissions testing model year for this year. But i've since developed an oil leak, did some investigating and found that the exhaust cam seal is the culprit, i think i used the old seals thinking the shop gave me new ones, but my head gasket set came with new seals so i'll just do both since i'm already in there and have both pulleys off.

                            So i was wondering if it would be a good idea to put some sealant around the outside circumference of the seals, or just clean the seal bosses, and put just a thin coat of grease on the outsides to help get them in?

                            And of course I am gonna investigate what's going on with the idle, once i get the oil leak taken care of, since oil burns and is an unpleasant smell

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Use very little sealant and no grease. Most people put retainers over them to stop them popping off. High idle could be a vac leak through the cam cap.
                              Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
                              Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
                              Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

                              Comment

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