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HowLeTT's mini n2o FAQ
I figured that since this was such a long reply (to probepimp's private message) i might as well post it in here as a form of reference to newbies who are searching.
You never bug me. People that say "whats the IAT mod" or email me without doing a simple search first.. that bugs me :smile:
I'm using a 5115 kit. Do you want a wet setup or a dry setup? I recommend a dry setup.. it's much simpler, you dont have to worry about spraying it with low pressure in the bottle, and changing the jets is extremely easy. 5115 is the NOS part number. There's also a 5123 kit which is popular.. they're all very similiar. The only difference between 5115 and 5123 is the jets that it comes with, which are easily replaceable anyway. There's also ZEX kits, they're all wet.. also Venom and NX. I knew I wanted a dry kit so I just went straight for the NOS. It is a little more expensive, but worth it IMO.
The kit comes with everything you need to get started. There's accessories you can get, such as a purge, a bottle heater, bottle blanket (i got all three of those), and guages. If you want to run a bigger shot than 45, you'll need a walbro fuel pump. I'm using a 190lph pump, that's plenty of fuel for up to ~350 horsepower. The kit comes with all wiring, selenoids, switches, etc. The only other thing you'll need is a bottle pressure guage, you can order one online or just get it at a local performance shop. Searh around to find out where the fill bottles up for the best price.. it adds up QUICKLY!! You should get heat range 6 plugs.. NGK v powers rock. They're $2 a piece at pep boys. Gap them at .035", compared to the usual .042" stock gapping. This will help prevent detonation.
I've run up to an 80 shot with the stock converter still, but I wouldnt recommend it. Stick with the 45 shot at first. That's the 36/42 jet combo. 36, the first jet #, is the nitrous jetting.. the second one is the fuel bypass. Smaller bypass #'s = more fuel, bigger nitrous #'s = more nitrous. So a 42/36 combo is a 75 shot. I usually switch back and forth between those two shots. With the level10 and a good cooler, which you already have, you should be able to run the 75 shot consistently with no problems.
There's those two jets.. they look like little golden sperm. I know its sick but seriously that's what they look like, they're tiny. You can change them just by using a 3/16" and 7/16" wrench to open up the jet housing. One of them is right next to the throttle body elbow, the other is in the T for the fuel fitting. Then take the one in there out and put the new jet in. The jet number is marked on it, you can see it on the jet so you wont get confused. Just be careful changing them, they fall down into the engine bay and are almost impossible to find. Changing them is very simple though 
Just make sure you use the proper combo of jets so that you dont run rich or lean. The combos i run are usually running the motor a little on the rich side.. which is safer but not quite as efficient as it would be if i ran a little less fuel or a little more n2o.
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I dont know, I just press the big red button and it goes :grin: JK.. The nitrous has alot of switches and selenoids that control when it's activated. There's a microswitch on the back of the throttle body.. what that does is make sure that the system is only armed and useable when the gas pedal is fully pressed, WOT. You dont want to be spraying when youre not at WOT, that will mess up the fuel pressure and could damage the engine. The whole key here is matching the fuel to the air, because it bypasses the regular airflow reader, the VAF. The compressed oxygen is being sprayed in right before the throttle body through the fogger nozzle, so you have to compensate with fuel. The dry setup works by activating more vacuum to the stock fuel pressure regulator to increase the amount of fuel to the rails/injectors when the nitrous is being used. That way, the extra air is matched by the extra fuel but only when it's needed and in use. I just got completely sidetracked, hehehe. Anyway.. when you have it floored, and the bottle is open (twist the valve open with the steel braided line connected, you'll hear all the nitrous fill up the line as it opens up), then it's ready for use. To arm the system there's an arming on/off switch. That's basically how you control with the nitrous is used. It will never spray if that switch is off, but if it's on it will only spray if the gas pedal is floored and the bottle is open. I've forgotten to open the bottle before, racing a new z28 too.. felt like a complete idiot 
New paragraph, heh. So when you flip that switch, it's armed. It's scary when you first use the nitrous but you'll get used to it and love it as much as I do. It LOVES automatics on probes for some reason :grin: I also have a pushbutton for the purge and a switch for the bottle heater. they have controls on them too.. the purge clears the air out of the line and gets the nitrous right up next to the selenoids, ready to fire into the throttle body. It also looks extremely smurfin cool. The bottle heater raises pressure in the bottle, which is critical. You want to spray it when the bottle pressue is between 900-1000 psi. It greatly affects performance, you'll notice that quickly. The heater has a thermister on it that will only activate the heater if the temperature of the bottle is below a certain point, that way it wont overheat and blow up the bottle. There's also a burst disk on the bottle which.. if the pressure goes over 1500 psi for some reason, it will release all the gas in the bottle harmlessly into the air. Well, not harmlessly, cause you'd be breathing it in, lol. They add sulfur to the nitrous oxide so that you cant inhale it and get high, it smurfs you up (in a bad bad way) if you try to. And no, I've never tried it, honestly :smile:
Hm.. what else. Alot of tracks require you to have a blowdown tube to race it at the track. It's basically another way to vent the nitrous in case the pressure gets released, so it vents it outside of the car instead of inside. I still dont have one, and never had a problem
I recommend getting guages.. especially Air/fuel, tranny temp, and a nitrous pressure guage. That's what im going to get eventually. If you get the pressue guage in your a- pillar you wont have to worry about getting one on the bottle. Do you have any more questions? Know how wet systems work, direct port, etc? IMO they're not needed for small shots, which is what we're using.
no problem sistah ;D lol
PS- purging is sooooooooo fun!
On 2001-12-04 03:34, probepimp wrote:
hey mike, havn't talked to ya in a while. sorry to bug you with this, but i had a few questions regarding NOS in my ATX.
hey mike, havn't talked to ya in a while. sorry to bug you with this, but i had a few questions regarding NOS in my ATX.
you can answer these whenever you get around to it, cause it's kind of a lot. First, i basically have no clue on anything about this, trying to read stuff in the N20 section, but most of it is useless info and i thought contacting you directly would make things easier to understand. so here we go.
1. What kit do you use and what do you recommend?
1. What kit do you use and what do you recommend?
2. What all would i need to make it complete, and how much will it run roughly?
3. What shot is recommended w/o a L10 and with an L10?
4. How do you change the shot you are using?
Just make sure you use the proper combo of jets so that you dont run rich or lean. The combos i run are usually running the motor a little on the rich side.. which is safer but not quite as efficient as it would be if i ran a little less fuel or a little more n2o.[/quote]
5. how exactly do you work it? like when exactly do you spray? and how do you make it not spray during shifts and such? when do you spray? basically i want to know the whole technique here on using it.
New paragraph, heh. So when you flip that switch, it's armed. It's scary when you first use the nitrous but you'll get used to it and love it as much as I do. It LOVES automatics on probes for some reason :grin: I also have a pushbutton for the purge and a switch for the bottle heater. they have controls on them too.. the purge clears the air out of the line and gets the nitrous right up next to the selenoids, ready to fire into the throttle body. It also looks extremely smurfin cool. The bottle heater raises pressure in the bottle, which is critical. You want to spray it when the bottle pressue is between 900-1000 psi. It greatly affects performance, you'll notice that quickly. The heater has a thermister on it that will only activate the heater if the temperature of the bottle is below a certain point, that way it wont overheat and blow up the bottle. There's also a burst disk on the bottle which.. if the pressure goes over 1500 psi for some reason, it will release all the gas in the bottle harmlessly into the air. Well, not harmlessly, cause you'd be breathing it in, lol. They add sulfur to the nitrous oxide so that you cant inhale it and get high, it smurfs you up (in a bad bad way) if you try to. And no, I've never tried it, honestly :smile:
Hm.. what else. Alot of tracks require you to have a blowdown tube to race it at the track. It's basically another way to vent the nitrous in case the pressure gets released, so it vents it outside of the car instead of inside. I still dont have one, and never had a problem
I recommend getting guages.. especially Air/fuel, tranny temp, and a nitrous pressure guage. That's what im going to get eventually. If you get the pressue guage in your a- pillar you wont have to worry about getting one on the bottle. Do you have any more questions? Know how wet systems work, direct port, etc? IMO they're not needed for small shots, which is what we're using.
thanks a lot for this mike, i greatly appreciate it all. i hope you can get around to answering these questions for me. peace!
PS- purging is sooooooooo fun!
And no Im not gay, just a nice guy too.
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