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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old December 27th, 2014, 06:29 PM   #1
Horror Angel
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What headlight replacements to get?

Hi! A headlight lamp has burned out. I noticed there are a ton of conversions on ebay after I picked up two replacements from the Auto store. Which headlights should I get? Any pics comparing what different ones look like? Also will I have to re-align my headlights when replacing them?
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Old December 27th, 2014, 07:53 PM   #2
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My son just bought me the Spec-D Projector black which are nice looking, but they don't seem anywhere near as bright as my original sealed-beam. Again, cool-looking with a small blue accent bulb which sends a blue effect around the reflector, but hard to see the road.. Maybe the H4's at 55watts ain't cutting it..

Yes, you will have to realign them when you replace, regardless of brand..
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Old December 27th, 2014, 08:48 PM   #3
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Hella lens housing with h4 bulbs.
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Old December 29th, 2014, 08:08 PM   #4
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10000K Deep Blue Bi-Xenon Slim Hid/4X6 H4651/H4652/H4656/H4666 Diamond Headlights

Amazon. Best deal I found that I personally purchased. Only problem with the h4 conversion is that our plugs from our harness do not simply plug into the h4 setup due to havING an odd slant to the connector.

So to get these to work I simply removed the female connectors from the plastic plug guide and slid them on to the conversion kit male connectors, then simply wrapped them in electrical tape. (TIP make sure you don't mix up high and low beam wires or you will kick yourself trying to adjust these) when ever I would flip to high beams they would point lower to the ground]

The new diamond head light assemblys are clear and look great. They are left and right specific and do have a label on them for which end of the headlights is the top end. So don't mix these up.

I also recommend the 60,000k not the 100,000k unless you don't do to much country driving. Because you won't be able to see very well with 100,000k. Also 60.000k is the closest you can get to brightness of the sun.

Last thing the rubber seals need a little modification to fit the hid bulbs

Last edited by junior419; December 29th, 2014 at 08:10 PM.
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Old December 30th, 2014, 02:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junior419 View Post
10000K Deep Blue Bi-Xenon Slim Hid/4X6 H4651/H4652/H4656/H4666 Diamond Headlights

Amazon. Best deal I found that I personally purchased. Only problem with the h4 conversion is that our plugs from our harness do not simply plug into the h4 setup due to havING an odd slant to the connector.

So to get these to work I simply removed the female connectors from the plastic plug guide and slid them on to the conversion kit male connectors, then simply wrapped them in electrical tape. (TIP make sure you don't mix up high and low beam wires or you will kick yourself trying to adjust these) when ever I would flip to high beams they would point lower to the ground]

The new diamond head light assemblys are clear and look great. They are left and right specific and do have a label on them for which end of the headlights is the top end. So don't mix these up.

I also recommend the 60,000k not the 100,000k unless you don't do to much country driving. Because you won't be able to see very well with 100,000k. Also 60.000k is the closest you can get to brightness of the sun.

Last thing the rubber seals need a little modification to fit the hid bulbs
a little too many 0's, the 4300k are the whitest and brightest, the more k's the more to violet side and less visible light

P.S. although I would recommend doing the projector conversion, instead of just using the HID's
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Old December 30th, 2014, 07:18 AM   #6
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a little too many 0's, the 4300k are the whitest and brightest, the more k's the more to violet side and less visible light

P.S. although I would recommend doing the projector conversion, instead of just using the HID's
Lol yes to many 0*s. Byt 100k is basically driving around with black lights for headlights. Anything white lights up a cool color. But terrible in the country. Idk about 43k but on the scale of kits it was said 60k to be the whitest light. But 43k is what dealers use on the new cars so one of those
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Old January 2nd, 2015, 02:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junior419 View Post
10000K Deep Blue Bi-Xenon Slim Hid/4X6 H4651/H4652/H4656/H4666 Diamond Headlights

Amazon. Best deal I found that I personally purchased. Only problem with the h4 conversion is that our plugs from our harness do not simply plug into the h4 setup due to havING an odd slant to the connector.

So to get these to work I simply removed the female connectors from the plastic plug guide and slid them on to the conversion kit male connectors, then simply wrapped them in electrical tape. (TIP make sure you don't mix up high and low beam wires or you will kick yourself trying to adjust these) when ever I would flip to high beams they would point lower to the ground]

The new diamond head light assemblys are clear and look great. They are left and right specific and do have a label on them for which end of the headlights is the top end. So don't mix these up.

I also recommend the 60,000k not the 100,000k unless you don't do to much country driving. Because you won't be able to see very well with 100,000k. Also 60.000k is the closest you can get to brightness of the sun.

Last thing the rubber seals need a little modification to fit the hid bulbs
How do I do all this? I dont drive to the country.

Last edited by Horror Angel; January 2nd, 2015 at 02:45 PM.
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Old January 2nd, 2015, 10:24 PM   #8
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Just to note...some of the color temperatures are illegal in some states. In Florida, if you run a bulb of 8000k or higher, there's a chance you will get pulled over and ticketed.

I recommend 6000k if you want a really white light output.
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Old January 4th, 2015, 10:59 AM   #9
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Just copy and past the discription in my last two posts to amazon and order that set
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Old January 11th, 2015, 04:06 PM   #10
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just stay with the OEM bulbs!
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Old January 11th, 2015, 04:25 PM   #11
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6,000 doesn't have the whitest light. 4.3k-5k bulbs at 35watts does. 6k with 55w ballast actually burn close to 4.5k iirc. The youtube link will help talk about this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0etj9m2K6A

See here for color spectrum:
http://lowel.tiffen.com/edu/color_te...mystified.html

I highly recommend Diode Dynamics. These are professionals that have science to support and explain HIDs rather than some company making claims without evidence.

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/

With that said, you'll have to invest in some projectors if you go the HID route. Well worth the money. Is your safety at night worth skimping a few hundred dollars? That's the question you've got to ask yourself. If you can't afford a proper HID/projector setup, then regular incadecent bulbs are the way to go.

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/r...earch-hid.html

I personally don't believe in the 55w hype, but it's not necessarily all rubbish. Do your research and with anything, ask yourself if it boosts your ego because if it does, then you may be buying the wrong thing for the wrong reason.

http://www.diodedynamics.com/images/..._stacked_2.gif

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/m...tempwall_5.jpg

See here for color spectrum:
http://lowel.tiffen.com/edu/color_te...mystified.html


Here's from The Retrofit Source:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid...ystem-h3c.html

Quote:
Kelvin and Lumens (35W)
3K Range :Golden Yellow (~2800 lm)
4K Range :Warm White (~3100 lm)
5K Range: Pure White (3000 lm)
6K Range: Cool White (2900 lm)

XB55 50W Ballasts+20% intensity) (-20% lifespan)
TRS says pure white is 5k, and perhaps my own eyes see things differently, however, I perceive 4.5k to be closer to pure white.

4k provides the most lumens and, debatably, whitest light. Under severe weather conditions (ie wet roads), white light will reflect easily and thus illumination is poor. 3k bulbs allow contrast and do not reflect as easily and the road is illuminated more clearly.


Some people do see better with 6k because of the slight bluish/white contrast. There's nothing wrong with 6k, but it is not the whitest of lights. However, if you are going higher than 6k, you will be reducing lumenosity and essentially "decorating" your car for form rather than for function.

I would not follow junior419's advice.

I'm not affiliated with any of the merchants posted above. I'm simply trying to provide sound information/facts and pass contact information of honest businesses that have quality products and customer service.

Keep in mind, bulbs color temps go up with age/use.
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Last edited by Ghostcloak; January 11th, 2015 at 04:42 PM.
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Old February 11th, 2017, 09:43 PM   #12
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Just spotted this selection at CarId for a pretty nice variety of headlight styles for the 1993+:
https://www.carid.com/1993-ford-probe-headlights/
I am currently running an 8000k light blue HID setup, and have the arc of LED's on each side of the projector (an integral part of the headlamp). I have the LED circuits wired to be run as DRL's, and they look great. The HID's were a bit of a pain to install (so is the DRL circuit!), but the improvement in visibility is well worth it, the HID's are so beautifully bright (just make sure you re-aim them before getting on the road!). Of course, for anyone to see your DRL's, you have to run with the headlamps up. As such, I am considering going to the strip of LED's that could fit in the grill space by the turn signal. I really do like having the DRL's though, you can tell by the way people react when pulling out around you that you are much more visible to them. HID's, and DRL's, a winning combination in my opinion.
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Old February 12th, 2017, 07:11 AM   #13
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I would recommend to be careful with any type of aftermarket conversion if you care about other drivers. If you don't give a shite if you kill a mother and children when cresting over a hill and blinding her with your headlights so that she runs into a tree -then by all means -feel free to do whatever conversion you wish.

From my experiences with trying to convert to H4 from kits on e-Bay -almost all of them completely suck. The reflectors are not made right and they produce a "V" shaped beam that sprays both sides. So when trying to align them to produce the best possible pattern overlapping from both headlights -it is impossible to get a good pattern that doesn't spray out to the sides too much and blinds oncoming cars. I have tried 5 different brands and the results from all of them are the same. I have tried numerous big-name branded H4 bulbs -within the H4 glass housings (several with different filament heights) and the results are always the same -which leads me to believe that the glass housings are not designed properly and will spray oncoming vehicles with dangerous levels of blinding light.

I ended up putting back in stock type bulbs until I can get the H4 beam problem sorted out. Oh -and I forgot to mention that they are so far out -that you have to max out your adjustment screws to make it even half way un-blinding -to the point that the stock plastic cowls will no longer go on.

Is it really all worth killing mom and kids to say you have the brightest lights on the road?
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Old February 12th, 2017, 01:57 PM   #14
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^^^ Let's be a little less dramatic here. While blinding oncoming traffic is a dicc move, if someone jerks the wheel and runs off the road because they saw a bright light, well that person doesn't need to be on the road. Happens daily where I live that someone who has their brights on to see on our back roads forgets to turn their brights off when they crest a hill. It's no different. There's numerous ways to reduce the glare on these conversions. Angle, tint, Casper shields, etc.

Not to mention that numerous of the new luxury cars are extremely blinding, especially if you're not directly in front of the projector beam.
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Old February 12th, 2017, 04:15 PM   #15
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^^^ Let's be a little less dramatic here. While blinding oncoming traffic is a dicc move, if someone jerks the wheel and runs off the road because they saw a bright light, well that person doesn't need to be on the road. Happens daily where I live that someone who has their brights on to see on our back roads forgets to turn their brights off when they crest a hill. It's no different. There's numerous ways to reduce the glare on these conversions. Angle, tint, Casper shields, etc.

Not to mention that numerous of the new luxury cars are extremely blinding, especially if you're not directly in front of the projector beam.
I was referring to those that put stupidly bright lights in their cars that exceed some of the newer car lumens. And my point about causing the mother to wreck didn't mention her jerking her car.

On the roads that I drive to get to my home -the hill crests are often followed by a sharp turn and if the "mother" isn't familiar with these roads -it is very easy for someone to blind her and with the inability to see for 1-2 seconds could easily result in death.

Several of these curbs have sharp drop offs right at the edge. And saying "slow it down" really would not help in these situations either. It only takes a very brief blinding to cause someone to end up off the road and possibly killed.

Kids are getting killed on these roads all the time because they are not completely familiar with all of the curves and drop-offs and get distracted by passengers. And there have been several of these younguns -who's deaths were deemed as possibly blinded by high beams in one of these death curves I am talking about.

I don't get smashed -only because I am extremely familar with every turn and can easily negotiate a dangerous curve after being blinded by an arsehat that doesn't give a shite!

One arsehat around here that had a jacked up truck -and had a bunch of those bright as hell light bars as well as headlights and driving lights that exceeded the newer car "brights" by about 100X. I call that just pure Arsehat. Well he did get his because he got arrested and a court date when he blinded an officer.

You can't argue with me that it isn't an arsehat thing to do -or that it doesn't mean that some arsehats don't give a shite about other drivers. I instantly knew that my first LED experiment thing was not healthy for other drivers and so I ditched those because I care. Then I tried several other options -and I found all to be what I consider dangerous to others.

The defining line -as to who is an arsehat and who isn't -is where they draw the line at what is too bright. So I am just being dramatic to say in a way -"don't be an arsehat and think about other drivers".

P.S. ALL of my headlight experimentation involves testing and adjusting on my road first before I ever drive anywhere and accidentally kill someone. I adjust, then go out in front of my car to look at how it looks from the other lane and do this over and over and over. And if it doesn't pass my inspection -I pull it back in the driveway and switch it up. Does an arsehat do that?
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