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The proper/accurate way to set timing, idle, tps

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  • The proper/accurate way to set timing, idle, tps

    Ok,
    After a week of going crazy with high idle and bouncing idle and all the annoying trials and tribulations of removing and reinstalling the throttlebody, I've figured it out, and I wanna share.

    First, DO NOT DO THE COOLANT BYPASS MOD! It sucks and it makes your car idle high all the time in any weather below like 80 degrees (had it for a year). Make sure you have the proper amount of coolant (8 quarts) in your system. Start the car, let it warm up, and have the radiator caps loosened. once the small overflow resevoir fills up, cap it. Watch the filler neck by the pass. side of the engine, squeeze the hoses and burp all bubbles out of the system. Try to just keep the water level up in the neck so it can't suck air back in, and be careful the stuff gets hot! Squeeze the hose till the fluid is all the way to the top(ready to spill out) and cap it tightly. Once you're content all air bubbles are out, move onto the next step.

    Why worry about coolant? Bubbles in the IAC are bad and make idle fluctuate in a slow, annoying way.

    OK, you NEED a timing light, no ifs ans or buts about this. Without the timing light none of this will work. Insert a jumper pin between the ten and gnd pins. Hook up the timing light to the battery for power and hook up the signal to the #1 wire location on the disty(make sure all 6 plugs will still get full spark). Loosen the two 12 mm bolts on the disty so it can rotate(not too loose). Now, with the jumper pin inserted, start the car, if it dies, then open the idle air screw on the top of the tb a couple turns.
    Make sure the car is warmed up, NO accessories or fans or anything is on, and if the idle is like 1500 then close the idle air screw a little, it should be open 2-3 full turns. Now, move the power steering hoses and wires out of the way, point the flashing timing light at the crank pulley, and watch the small tab on it illuminate and reference it's location to the small timing marks on the plastic tab that sticks out over it. Rotate the disty until the notch on the crank pulley is exactly in line with the "10" on the plastic timing mark indicator(this is 10 degrees before top dead center). Now when it's at 10, tighten the disty down carefully so as not to move it. Double check for 10 deg. btdc. Now adjust the idle air screw until your idle sits right at 650 rpms (+/-25). Turn off the car, remove the jumper pin.

    Do not adjust the idle air screw unless the car is running with the ten/gnd pins jumped!!!!!

    Now, get your voltmeter. Set it to ohms. Touch the two terminals on the idle air bypass control valve(black part on bottom of tb). The resistance should be 10.2-12.3 ohms. If so, then that is ok. Unplug the TPS, with the voltmeter still on ohms (or continuity check mode), touch the two lowest pins with the terminals of the voltmeter. There should be continuity. If not, loosen the two screws holding it so you can just rotate it, and rotate until you get continuity. Next, take a .006"(.15mm) feeler gauge, and put it between the throttle stop screw and the throttle linkage(back/top of the TB) Before doing that, make sure that the stop screw that the linkage hits JUST barely touches it at closed throttle.(2.5mm allen key wrench for it). Now with the feeler gauge inserted, there should still be continuity, if not, rotate until there is. Next, switch to a .020"(.50mm) feeler gauge in, there should not be continuity, if so, redo the previous step until it is correct.
    Plug the sensor back in, turn the key to the on position with a paper clip jumping the ten and gnd pins.Now measure volts, and put the black from the voltmeter on the neg. terminal of the battery, and tap into the yellow(2nd wire down from top of tps harness). Voltage should be between .1 and 1.1 at closed throttle, but I found .5 to be perfect. At wot it should be 3.6-4 volts(check by pressing gas pedal to ensure it opens fully).
    Now start the car, your idle will be perfect. Don't bother resetting the battery! Let it adjust for the next few miles of driving. Throttle let off MAY be a little little jerky, but that's how mine has always been, when it was ever smooth the car wasn't idling right. Notice how quickly the rpms drop off and goto 650 when you pull to a stop

    There, hope that helps, post questions here if you have them, but make sure you follow this word for word, step by step for accuracy. I referenced a good bit of this from my Ford Technical Manual.

    Nick
    1993 PGT KLZE Turbo - Sold (12.9 @ 118mph)
    1995 240SX RB20DET swap - Sold (330whp)
    2000 Audi S4 TT - Sold (too heavy)
    1995 BMW M3 - Custom made turbo kit (420whp/398wtq) Sold to pay for school
    2003 VW GTI 20th Anniversary Edition - Chipped, exhaust, etc...

  • #2
    This post is so sticky, it could be called Glue.





    Good info, GoofyNick!!!
    Greg Martin
    2009 BMW 328i
    2017 BMW X3
    1990 Probe LX

    Comment


    • #3
      and Nick is so Goofy that he should work at Disney.

      i can't wait to do this. Great info! now do it with pictures
      1996 Boysenberry Probe GT MTXtreme
      2014 Fusion SE MTXtreme
      2005 Mountaineer Premier

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Bufalo
        This post is so sticky, it could be called Glue.
        lmao!
        Lee Hubanks

        As a political discussion grows longer, the probability of a comparison involving Hitler or the Nazis approaches 1.

        http://members.cardomain.com/ntruder95

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        • #5
          Originally posted by spada
          and Nick is so Goofy that he should work at Disney.

          i can't wait to do this. Great info! now do it with pictures
          I feel special, and yes, pictures will come; didn't have time tonight!

          It's 38 degrees and for once my car is still idling at 650 rpms!

          Nick
          1993 PGT KLZE Turbo - Sold (12.9 @ 118mph)
          1995 240SX RB20DET swap - Sold (330whp)
          2000 Audi S4 TT - Sold (too heavy)
          1995 BMW M3 - Custom made turbo kit (420whp/398wtq) Sold to pay for school
          2003 VW GTI 20th Anniversary Edition - Chipped, exhaust, etc...

          Comment


          • #6
            What exactly is a feeler gauge? Don't think I ever used one.



            And you know the 2 tiny screws (tiny allen wrench needed to adjust them) on the TB cable connector thing. Where should those both be set at?
            '93 Electric Red PGT SOLD
            Sponsored By: Dunlop Tires, Acci-Dent, Extreme Parts, Street Graphix, S3 Magazine, Great Lakes Dragaway
            2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by probepimp
              What exactly is a feeler gauge? Don't think I ever used one.



              And you know the 2 tiny screws (tiny allen wrench needed to adjust them) on the TB cable connector thing. Where should those both be set at?
              A feeler gauge is a 3" by .5" strip of thin metal that is as thick as the number stamped on it (ex. .020"). They come grouped together in a set of like 25 of them(all sizes).

              The screw that is on the back side that the whole linkage stops against should be exactly at the point where the tb is closed all the way, or opening the tb blade .010" at most.

              The other screw I just have so that the 2nd part of the linkage(which the cable connects to) is resting against it when fully closed, it's not a big deal, just make sure that it's going to allow the tb to open, close and operate smoothly.

              The feeler gauges get used on the 1st screw, on the back side of the tb at the top. Pics will hel when i can get them.

              Nick
              1993 PGT KLZE Turbo - Sold (12.9 @ 118mph)
              1995 240SX RB20DET swap - Sold (330whp)
              2000 Audi S4 TT - Sold (too heavy)
              1995 BMW M3 - Custom made turbo kit (420whp/398wtq) Sold to pay for school
              2003 VW GTI 20th Anniversary Edition - Chipped, exhaust, etc...

              Comment


              • #8
                If you could post a pic (or email dtkim78@yahoo.com) of your distributor and what position it's currently in, it'd help a lot of people without timing lights to determine if theirs is WAY off or not... When I replaced my disty, I aligned it so the bolts were on the same spot on the sliding bracket on the disty. I'm not sure if some disties can be off by a few degrees or not or even if the original disty was aligned right...

                BTW, how much are timing lights?

                Anyone in the NYC/NJ area with a timing light? I don't think autozone has these for loaning... Maybe this can become a meet or something.
                1993 PGT MTX Silver - Eibachs, Tokiko Illuminas, EBC Slotted Rotors, Axxis Pads, Sleepy Eye, H4, Alpine 6.5s, Bazooka Subwoofer.
                1993 Yamaha FZR600R - Blue

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey nick... why don't you come up to Kentucky or Ohio and set my idle/timing and all that jazz?

                  Ty would let you take a boosted ride
                  -Chris C.
                  Cadillac ATS 3.6L AWD

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Probe 2C
                    Hey nick... why don't you come up to Kentucky or Ohio and set my idle/timing and all that jazz?

                    Ty would let you take a boosted ride
                    How about you come down to va? Ty is a curse on fast probes, so I'll stay away And I'll have my own boosted ride again in a couple months.

                    Nick
                    1993 PGT KLZE Turbo - Sold (12.9 @ 118mph)
                    1995 240SX RB20DET swap - Sold (330whp)
                    2000 Audi S4 TT - Sold (too heavy)
                    1995 BMW M3 - Custom made turbo kit (420whp/398wtq) Sold to pay for school
                    2003 VW GTI 20th Anniversary Edition - Chipped, exhaust, etc...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I was just at Autozone yesterday and the car battery powered timing light was $29.99 and the inductive timing light was $39.99. It's a good tool to have. Although you will probably only use it a couple of times. If you have a friend or neighbor that you can borrow it from that would be best.
                      Marc M.
                      Black '95 PGT with mods 177.4 whp/159.6 wtq (probably way less now as the car has been partially de-modded)
                      2000 BMW M-Roadster

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Omaha95PGT
                        I was just at Autozone yesterday and the car battery powered timing light was $29.99 and the inductive timing light was $39.99. It's a good tool to have. Although you will probably only use it a couple of times. If you have a friend or neighbor that you can borrow it from that would be best.

                        So, FRIEND.... As I said... anyone in the NYC/NJ area? I have a 2nd Gen Turbo'ed PGT that i can give rides in... Maybe if there's people with various skills, we can all do stuff to our cars... I've worked on quiet a few PGTs... 5 in my name alone. Wait... that isn't a good record.... hahahha.. jk.
                        1993 PGT MTX Silver - Eibachs, Tokiko Illuminas, EBC Slotted Rotors, Axxis Pads, Sleepy Eye, H4, Alpine 6.5s, Bazooka Subwoofer.
                        1993 Yamaha FZR600R - Blue

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                        • #13
                          can I use my obdII scanner that has real time data to check timing and the rpms instead of a timing light?

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                          • #14
                            I am SO doing this after I replace all my timing belt related stuff. My school shop has an inductive timing light, so I'll just use that.

                            Fully equipped shops that I have full access to are cool

                            This post rocks!! It's going to get printed stuck into my "useful info" folder.

                            Oh, and to the guy above, no, the base timing has to be set/checked manually. The reading that the OBDII scanner will give you is what the ECM is *trying* to get, but if the base timing is off... I think you get the idea.
                            Kevin B - Former Probe-owner
                            06 Legacy GT
                            98 Legacy GT

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                            • #15
                              ok cool thanks for the info.

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