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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old August 19th, 2005, 09:19 PM   #51
DVM04
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Thanks Travis, I was able to tap out the drivers axle from the passenger side, It was a bitch to do I grant that. Its out now and I have the tranny apart to replace the bearings and synchros....fun fun...see ya and thanks again.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisWilliams_GT
From my experience, the stuck driver axle is a direct result of poor retaining clips on remanufactured axles.....some of them are literally 1/2 the size....and therein lies the problem.

When this type of clip on the axle is installed, there is a good chance that it will slip out of its groove on install, and wedge itself inbetween the splines of the axle and the splines of the inner differencial. When this happens it is basically stuck in place, so it definately doesn't want to come out.

BE CAREFUL WITH THE GOING THROUGH THE DIFFERENCIAL

I cannot stress this enough, USE QUALITY THICK (not tapered) PUNCHES to go through the diff to knock the axle out.

That is the only way to get it out, but if the end of your punch snaps off, where is it going to go?.........that is right....inside the transmission, in the differencial.

*P*O*O*P*

So be careful, and good luck.
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Old August 25th, 2005, 07:24 PM   #52
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Man I just started taking everything apart today, what a bitch. The two front bolts on the engine craddle that have the nuts welded inside the frame...yeah well the the welds broke so we had to drill/cut into the frame to get'em out. Other than that everythings going okay, worked about 4 hrs and the tranny is ready to drop but its dark out so we figured we'd wait til tomorrow. But the write up has helped wonderfully!
Thanks
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Old August 26th, 2005, 11:44 AM   #53
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This thread is what probetalk should be about.

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Old August 26th, 2005, 11:47 AM   #54
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Yeah it'd be great if it was wouldn't it?
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Old August 26th, 2005, 08:22 PM   #55
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yeah Travis is the man...he installed my headers and a couple of other things and will be doing my clutch and flywheel tomorrow, can't wait.
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Old August 28th, 2005, 01:38 PM   #56
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Old October 3rd, 2005, 11:33 AM   #57
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I was nowhere handy to 1:37, but these instructions saved me a hell of a lot of time, that's for sure! The manuals would have me remove the exhaust and the passenger shafts, for no reason. Thanks Travis!
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Old October 3rd, 2005, 03:45 PM   #58
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Anybody know if you can buy the proper sized inner axle wire circlips from Ford or Mazda?

I had the stuck left inner axle problem on my MX-6 and had to use chisels as wedges under the CV housing, driving them in with a big hammer. It broke the inner splined end of the axle off (inside of the circlip groove) and it fell into the trans. I used a magnet tool to get the piece out, which was a ring of metal.

The chisels and hammering distorted the trans case near the seals, so I had to clean all of that up to get the seal to go back in. The car has not run since then (ZE swap) but it looks like it is now leaking in this area. If so, it means I will have to swap my trans for another one. I'll drive on it first to see if it stops (it might be overfilled now) but I'm not too confident. It will be a real bummer to have to pull the trans now.

I think it is better to pull the inner joint apart and take the tripod and shaft out. Pull the trans with the old housing still in place. Clean the old inner housing, grease it up, and install the rebuilt shaft into the old housing. This might not last forever, but it will be far less hassle that swapping the trans (if you have the same result I did).

Just a word to the wise...
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Old October 9th, 2005, 11:00 PM   #59
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3 hours biotch, here I come. Next clutch job will be next week, thats right, I only expect this clutch to last a week. I'll be faster that you soon Travis
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Old October 9th, 2005, 11:02 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael A.
Anybody know if you can buy the proper sized inner axle wire circlips from Ford or Mazda?

I had the stuck left inner axle problem on my MX-6 and had to use chisels as wedges under the CV housing, driving them in with a big hammer. It broke the inner splined end of the axle off (inside of the circlip groove) and it fell into the trans. I used a magnet tool to get the piece out, which was a ring of metal.

The chisels and hammering distorted the trans case near the seals, so I had to clean all of that up to get the seal to go back in. The car has not run since then (ZE swap) but it looks like it is now leaking in this area. If so, it means I will have to swap my trans for another one. I'll drive on it first to see if it stops (it might be overfilled now) but I'm not too confident. It will be a real bummer to have to pull the trans now.

I think it is better to pull the inner joint apart and take the tripod and shaft out. Pull the trans with the old housing still in place. Clean the old inner housing, grease it up, and install the rebuilt shaft into the old housing. This might not last forever, but it will be far less hassle that swapping the trans (if you have the same result I did).

Just a word to the wise...

You can find them at Ford, $5 for a pair but they dont make them any more so good luck finding them. I had mine shipped from Utah and the guy on the phone said he would just drop them in USPS for ยข37 there so small, if you have to have them shipped ask them to do that.
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Old October 9th, 2005, 11:11 PM   #61
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You can purchase the circlips from Mazda.. after testing and comparing a reman axle circlip to a Mazda circlip.. BIG DIFFERENCE! I just had the same issue (jammed circlip on the driver's side.. ended up resulting in dropping the transmission to cut it off.. not fun ) If you want to buy them, you can order them from Mazda for sure.. very common and still used part I found out.. I think mine were about $4~5 for the pair.

Best of luck!
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Old October 11th, 2005, 02:30 AM   #62
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They found ones actually from our cars or just found a universal one. They god one for out cars but had to look around to find it as I said before.
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Old October 30th, 2005, 04:20 PM   #63
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Are you saying that you dont have to remove the axle nut? Just pop it out of the tranny? If I dont have to mess with taking the ball joints off that would be awesome.
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Old October 30th, 2005, 05:00 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inside0ut
Are you saying that you dont have to remove the axle nut? Just pop it out of the tranny?
You do NOT need to remove the axle nut. It will pop out of the tranny and you can hang the axle on the fuel line going to the bottom of the fuel filter. It works like a charm!

Mike
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Old November 21st, 2005, 02:42 PM   #65
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Old November 21st, 2005, 07:33 PM   #66
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Great write up


Me and my dad did my clutch in just over an hour. but i have th unfair advantage of a hoist and my dad owns a shop. so that isnt to fiar.
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Old December 27th, 2005, 06:09 PM   #67
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Been there! You do need a helper when you take it loose and while putting it back in. This will save time and much safer. Try to raise the car as high as you can but not out of reach of your floor jacks reach. Make sure you have a 5" round jack point jack not on of those little suckers. Mine was a biotch to get out, very stubborn. Going back in is not all that easy as well. Make sure you get all the ground wires off. I missed the main one and had to cut it as at this point it was getting crazy while it almost fell off the jack. This is a tough job if you have never done this before. I will not do it again. I have a shop that will do this for 380.00 in labor. As far as I am concerned that is worth it unless I buy a lift and the proper trans jacks. To much time and I am getting to old to roll around on the floor for 7 hours.
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Old January 1st, 2006, 11:41 AM   #68
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damn it took me that long just read the directions
fine job my friend
it took me almost a weeek of early afternoons working to late evenings to put clutch in my daughters 94 gt
take a bow and what does that break down to installation price by the hour so i know who to call next time lol
fine job
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Old March 1st, 2006, 09:31 PM   #69
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Stay Tuned...the complete KL-ZE Swap instructions are coming soon
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Old March 8th, 2006, 05:49 PM   #70
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hey guys i'm needing to change the clutch in my 93 gt and was wondering how important is it that i relieve the fuel system pressure first, and if u would recomend me getting the fly wheele turned... thanks
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Old March 8th, 2006, 05:55 PM   #71
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I dont think I relieve the fuel pressure when I did it...I dont know why you would need to, and yeah if you're changing the clutch either resurface your flywheel or by a lightweight one if you have the money, you could always look for an mx3 which are fairly cheap
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Old March 11th, 2006, 06:01 AM   #72
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for posting this thread travis ...
Now i can do it my self and save so much $ for othere things..
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Old March 15th, 2006, 06:08 PM   #73
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yea resurface your fly wheel
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Old April 13th, 2006, 04:57 AM   #74
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lol takes me under 2hrs to do the whole engine lol i guess it has to do with me setting up my own wire harness and lines. but none-the-less i think its a cool thing lol. good write up though man i just think it would have taken me longer to remove just the tranny then the whole engine and tranny.
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Old April 14th, 2006, 03:04 PM   #75
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Just a little side note for this procedure. Remove/disconnect the battery. For the first time in my time owning/working on this car, I left the battery in. While dropping the tranny w/ starter attached, the positive lead on the starter (which obviously still had some electricity left in it) got snagged on my stainless steel clutch line. First was smoke, then. . . . . yes, FIRE!! Blue flames just a burnin away (blue ATE fluid). Thank god I had a hose not more than 10ft. away. Took me two days to get another line made for $20 which was good. And this writeup definately improved my time over the last clutch! Awesome writeup.
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