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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old May 4th, 2006, 08:00 AM   #76
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These instuctions helped me out A WHOLE LOT ! By myself , i had it done in about 3 , 3 1/2 hrs. Including the rear main seal. Thanks alot PT. Without this tread , Im sure it would have taken me much longer. (probably days) Thanks again.
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Old July 2nd, 2006, 12:02 PM   #77
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i think i need to adjust my clutch how would i go about that
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Old July 3rd, 2006, 12:29 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedhate
i think i need to adjust my clutch how would i go about that
You can't just "adjust the clutch." There are a lot of things that you can potentially adjust. What are your problems? You may just need to bleed, or maybe adjust the pedal freeplay?

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Old July 3rd, 2006, 04:48 AM   #79
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ACT clutches sometimes need a longer slave cylinder rod to fully disengage the clutch. What brand did you use?

FWIW a spare A/C Compressor retainer bolt is the near perfect length.
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Old July 24th, 2006, 03:11 AM   #80
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in a week or so my cm III and fidanza comes in for my 1st gen GT. i want to replace it myself but i'm a little scared to actually do it and it's probably all rusty and all.... it all SOUNDS easy if you just take the time...

my tranny is also bad. it's grinding when shifting into 3rd, probably synchroproblem? better getting another tranny than fixing the tranny? i've heard it's really a pita to do that...

i'm just a hobbyman, no mechanic... i think i can pull it off but i'm hesitating to actually do it....could save me alot of bucks for sure but what when something goes wrong....
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Old July 24th, 2006, 11:17 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch TurboFox
i'm just a hobbyman, no mechanic... i think i can pull it off but i'm hesitating to actually do it....could save me alot of bucks for sure but what when something goes wrong....
If the tranny is grinding definitely try to find a reliable replacement. Rebuilding is more expensive and very potentially not worth it depending on the cost of replacement tranny - you should be able to find a replacement for $100- 150 if not less.

The clutch job is one of the hardest to do - mostly dependant on work space, time, patience, and knowledge. My feeling is this: if you have the space and tools and time, then go ahead and start disassembling. If you do screw it up, you can always tow it to wherever would do the work anyway and have them laugh at you like they always do when backyard mech's try to work on their cars. My experience is that I generally do better work myself (although not always on the first try) and I don't trust mechanics.

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Old July 24th, 2006, 11:36 AM   #82
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same thinking here about the mechanics... got the time, space and probably all the required tools (as stated in the how to: just ratchets and normal things....got that too) problem is, we're ging for it on a saturday at my gilrfriends uncle's place... which is a 45 minute drive from where i live... it HAS to be done in 1 day otherwise i can't get home... if I/we srew up, no shop is open on sunday.... but i'll give it a try...

about the tranny, found one already (how difficult do you think it is finding a trans on the scrapyard here on the other side of the world? but that's the downside of having a rare import car...) costs me about $250 but it's the best i can do....thanks for your info man
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Old July 24th, 2006, 02:18 PM   #83
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Hope you realize this is a write-up for a 2g V6, not a 1g I4.

As for the grinding in 3rd.. my original 2g V6 tranny did that until I changed the clutch, then it was fine. I suspect it was attributed to a weak pressure plate. I drove that tranny another 20k+ miles before destroying it without ever having it grind into third again.
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Old July 24th, 2006, 02:24 PM   #84
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i did see it's a write up for the 2g V6... just some random questions, don't think the 1g GT clutch is that much different though?

as for the grinding... could put the clutch in first and decide to go for a new tranny later if necesary. but it doesn't grind when i shift "gently"... clutch has to break in for 500 miles or so, so i'll have to go easy on it in the beginning....if it's stilll grinding i have to remove the tranny again...
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Old November 19th, 2006, 05:43 PM   #85
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Man, when I had a new clutch installed it took the garage 6 hours at $65 an hour.... If only this thread had been around when my clutch went... Great How to!

later
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Old November 21st, 2006, 10:35 PM   #86
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So my best swap time was 4 and a half hours, but i would take more time next time. Some of the bolts didnt get back in good enough and i had to retighten, so add another 10 hours in snugging stuff up.

Best guess, on my wife's pgt i'll be hour and half into the clutch we get to do, and i wont miss a thing. I think on my ze swap i made the mistake of using the air rachet for most the bolts, and thought it would get tight enough.
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Old January 8th, 2007, 10:33 PM   #87
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That's great! Do you have a short, short, short version of replacing a timing belt?
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Old January 9th, 2007, 12:16 AM   #88
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That's great! Do you have a short, short, short version of replacing a timing belt?
Take the old timing belt off, put the new timing belt on, drive off.
You'll find the procedure in the Archives.
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 07:44 AM   #89
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Tranny won't slide off. Any ideas?

We (my 17yr old sons) started the clutch job based on the steps.
We have a 97 GL 4cyc No ASB. Standard transmission.
Already spent 6 hours, 1 hours wrestling with sliding tranny from engine!
We are having problems getting the tranny to "slide off".
The tranny is currently lowered with the 3 17mm and 2 14mm bolts removed.
We tried driving a chisel between the engine and tranny to act as a wedge but it appears something else is keeping it held tight. Wonder if a step is missing.
We did find that the axle bolt on the hub was not required to be removed. Plus it is a 32mm not 23mm. And I am not sure why we had to remove any wires from the starter....Does the starter need to come out? Getting to the starter was the hardest part of the job, up to the point of where we are stuck.
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 02:33 PM   #90
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Again, remember these "guidelines" are for the 2.5 MTX only.

I have never removed the axle for a clutch job, even the few 2.0 ones I've done. And of the handfull of clutches on the 2.0 that I have completed....I remember being in your current situation. I remember getting all the bolts out and it still not coming loose on the first one.

I believe the key was the starter. It has a thru bolt that goes through the starter and into the transmission casing and terminates in the block.

If you already have the chisel seperating part of the 2 halves, use a flashlight to locate the binding point. If it is near the starter, then my hunch is right. I would go ahead and remove the starter regardless just to get it out of the way. You cannot use it as a handle like the 2./5 MTX anyway. It mounts from the opposite side.
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Old March 5th, 2007, 11:32 AM   #91
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Finally done thanks to some coach from Travis.

The starter issue above was an interesting one.
The two bolt that hold the starter on the engine come from to different sides of the transmission. The top bolt come into the tranny and attached to the starter. The lower comes from the engine side and threads into the tranny.

Once that last bolt was out the tranny slipped right off.

ON A DIFFERENT TOPIC:
We had a hard time getting the driver side axle back in . I but it in as far as I could by hand, which left a inch to go then we tapped the remainder in using a pipe and hammer. After the first tap it when in..

The trick is getting the axle as parallel as we could. This required me to jack up the hub (place jack under ball joint) until the axle is as parallel and straight as possible. This allow me to tap all around the green sleeve of the axle.
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Old April 8th, 2007, 01:42 PM   #92
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Well, Mr. Williams, your write-up has helped me install my first clutch on a fellow POC's car. Thank you for the write-up.....these things do come in handy. Thank you!!!!
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Old April 8th, 2007, 07:29 PM   #93
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I just used this write-up for the heck of it last weekend. Since it's the super duper speedy quick write-up, I'll give it a

However, the primary hastle I ran into was aligning the intermediate shaft up without destroying the axle seal and then getting the input shaft of the transmission through into the pilot bearing (yes, I used the alignment tool as usual). Otherwise, it went smoothly.
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Old April 8th, 2007, 07:33 PM   #94
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However, the primary hastle I ran into was aligning the intermediate shaft up without destroying the axle seal and then getting the input shaft of the transmission through into the pilot bearing (yes, I used the alignment tool as usual). Otherwise, it went smoothly.
A little lube on your shaft goes a long ways
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Old April 9th, 2007, 04:35 AM   #95
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The one thing I can tell you that helps in that scenario is to throw the transmission in gear and have someone rotate the passenger side wheel. That will rotate the splines and it'll drop right in.
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Old April 20th, 2007, 05:12 PM   #96
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trav williams is a genius
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Old April 22nd, 2007, 06:41 AM   #97
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Hi all, I'm in the middle of the clutch change right now, and I was thinking ahead to when the tranny has to be slid out. Does the passenger side intermediate shaft just slide out of the tranny as the tranny is being pulled away, or does it have to be pried out as the driver side was?
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Old April 22nd, 2007, 06:46 AM   #98
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it slides out,there is no c-clip on the passenger side.

good luck with the job
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Old April 22nd, 2007, 04:54 PM   #99
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Thanks Travis.

I got the tranny out, but broke two of the 3 top bolts (the other one wasn't there or I may have broke that one too!) Both of them broke right where the threads start on the bolt. Is there any way to get the remainder out of the block?

I don't think that I did anything wrong in terms of removing it. I tried with the impact wrench, but they wouldn't budge, so I got out the breaker bar and got them to move freely, but after a turn or two both of them stopped turning so I put the impact back on them and they turned another thread, then stopped, so I put the breaker bar back on them and they both snapped. Why would this happen?

I was thinking that either the bolt got warped somehow, or the block slightly warped, or when the guy that swapped the motor was installing the tranny, he overtorqued the bolt (possibility?). He messed so many other things up that I wouldn't be surprised if it was his fault somehow.

Thanks for any info,

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Old April 23rd, 2007, 09:40 AM   #100
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my friend and i undertook the task of installing a new clutch on my car starting yesterday afternoon (around 1pm). this morning at 1am we gave up! it was rediculously hard for some reason. first off, we broke one of the top engine to tranny bolts, had a tough time getting the tranny off of the half shaft. then now that we got everythine off, we can't get the tranny back on! i'm wondering if any of the local autoparts stores rent tranny jacks or if anyone has any other ideas to help get the tranny back on the car? the car is all rusted on the bottom so getting all the bolts off was a big p.i.t.a.
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