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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old May 26th, 2007, 12:35 AM   #101
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I boned and stripped my wrecked PGT pretty much in one night, and all the bolts came off fine.

Of course me, being in a rush and getting too excited, started off the stripping by bagging and labeling where parts came off of and etc. But that didn't last too long, and my box of Probe nuts and bolts that has been collected ever since my first probe (92 GL) has grown increadabaly, and is a mess.

Well I got the tranny on, and engine swapped in, but I am having a problem. In the write-up it says there are 3 17mm bolts across the top, and 3 along the front. I got 3 up top, and 2 on the front. I know theres the 2 17mm ones hiding behind the tranny, the shorter ones, so I got 7 17mm bolts total, and I cannot find the 6th one (I have 3 on top, here appears to be a spot where another one can go, but its solid aluminum, and that would make 4 along the top, which isn't right).

None of the drawings make any sense in both the Real service manual as well as the crap haynes manuals.

I looked and looked, and cant see the 6th bolt possible, and it's got me all buggered out, this project OGT

I boned and stripped my wrecked PGT pretty much in one night, and all the bolts came off fine.

Of course me, being in a rush and getting too excited, started off the stripping by bagging and labeling where parts came off of and etc.

Well I got the tranny on, and engine swapped in, but I am having a problem. In the write-up it says there are 3 17mm bolts across the top, and 3 along the front. I got 3 up top, and 2 on the front. I know theres the 2 17mm ones hiding behind the tranny, the shorter ones, so I got 7 17mm bolts total, and I cannot find the 6th one (I have 3 on top, here appears to be a spot where another one can go, but its solid aluminum, and that would make 4 along the top, which isn't right).

None of the drawings make any sense in both the Real service manual as well as the crap haynes manuals.

I looked and looked, and cant see the 6th bolt possible, and it's got me all buggered out, this project PGT has taken some time (damn my perfectionist habits) and I am so close to having it runing and being able to drive a PGT after months of none its bothering me and I'm going nuts!

So any input is much appriciated.

P.S. Pics would complement the write-up. Maybe torque specs and etc. Someday when I get a nice camera, I'd love to document everything on 2nd Gens, just because I hate getting stuck on problems like this lol.

Note this is my first time ever in my life diving this deep into a car, but its been fun and interesting so far. Its a pain though since I am a one-man show, the tranny kicked my rear lol.
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Last edited by BePro; May 26th, 2007 at 12:42 AM. Reason: Automerged Double Post
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Old May 28th, 2007, 10:02 AM   #102
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That messed me up too when doing the re-install. There are actually 3 along the top and 2 to the front, not 3 as stated in the writeup.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 12:35 PM   #103
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Old May 29th, 2007, 10:11 AM   #104
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Sorry Travis, I definitely didn't mean any disrespect by it, your writeup was my bible when changing the clutch.
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Old May 31st, 2007, 06:22 PM   #105
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how much do they charge to install a clutch
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Old May 31st, 2007, 07:25 PM   #106
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..........WHO is THEY?
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Old June 1st, 2007, 05:33 PM   #107
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how much do shops usually charge to install a clutch
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Old June 1st, 2007, 06:26 PM   #108
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I've seen $450 up to whatever they want to charge....
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Old June 1st, 2007, 06:35 PM   #109
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My local shop charged me I think $350 when I brought in my own clutch years ago.
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Old June 10th, 2007, 06:03 PM   #110
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I've read EVERY SINGLE post on here. I still don't get on how you guys removed the (fire wall side) mount. you know the ones thats just above the pipe. I can't see how in the world you people get to them!!!! I can barley get a wrench in there and I can't break them loose. Any ideas?
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Old June 10th, 2007, 06:59 PM   #111
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First post...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisWilliams_GT
[*]remove 3 rear motormount to transmission 17mm bolts, Start on the TOP One and work down (trust me)
That's where it's removed. I've done it with the exhaust on just like TW suggested without any trouble.
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Old June 10th, 2007, 08:13 PM   #112
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17 mm box end wrench with another 17mm-ish wrench on the end for extra torque if needed. I've also managed to sneak a 3/4 drive stubby ratchet up there as well.
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Old June 27th, 2007, 06:49 PM   #113
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Just wanted to finally say thanks to Travis for this write up! I followed it about 6 months ago and since then have had no problem at all with clutches, flywheels, or changing my tranny best time 6 hours, for clutch, fw, and tranny including lunch break(s)
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Old July 11th, 2007, 04:44 PM   #114
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Now my turn at doing this but would it be the same when changing the hole trans out with another 1
and I didn't see anything about the shifter ( or I missed it)
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Old July 11th, 2007, 04:48 PM   #115
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You are talking about swapping an MTX for another MTX? If so then yes these will be good instructions and you must have missed the linckage part, I havent read this for a few years but I'm sure its in there somewhere.
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Old July 11th, 2007, 07:32 PM   #116
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thanks drumer919 I was hoping it was the same
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Old July 30th, 2007, 06:40 AM   #117
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Once you get under there its all pretty straight forward. You drop the bell housing anyway just to get to the clutch (unless you have an extra jack and are really sneaky) Removing the driver side axle is optional.
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Old August 2nd, 2007, 11:12 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftinmkey
I've read EVERY SINGLE post on here. I still don't get on how you guys removed the (fire wall side) mount. you know the ones thats just above the pipe.
take a wrench and clamp a vise grip around one end. take out the middle bolt 1st ( i know, i know, but taking middle bolt 1st makes room to wrench on the top bolt)
its gonna take a while this way
or you can stick a rachet and a long extension thru behind the downpipe, theres not much room there either.
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Old August 5th, 2007, 10:31 PM   #119
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that's a seriously sick time... i just got done pulling, rebuilding, reinstalling, and replacing almost most of my 95 PGT and i wish i had known about this site b4 i got started... i'd have asked travis for some tips on that!!!! he could prolly do that in a weekend...
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Old August 30th, 2007, 12:00 AM   #120
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Daym.. I can't replace the clutch all by myself.. Need to have atleast two companions to help me.. Unscrewing the bolts will also take some time.. Plus, removing the transmission support is hard to remove, unless there are two people supporting the transmission itself..
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Old August 30th, 2007, 09:25 PM   #121
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Daym.. I can't replace the clutch all by myself.. Need to have atleast two companions to help me.. Unscrewing the bolts will also take some time.. Plus, removing the transmission support is hard to remove, unless there are two people supporting the transmission itself..
There is nothing very difficult about removing the bolts. What transmission support are you talking about? Do you mean the motor mount? Everything is basically straightforward when you have the right tools and follow the directions. Plus once everything is unbolted and disconnected the tranny still just sits attached to the engine until you pull it off and it doesn't weigh that much.

Mike
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Old August 31st, 2007, 04:02 PM   #122
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This thread has become a haven for 25 post hunters........

somebody call
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Old October 5th, 2007, 05:20 AM   #123
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hey travis.. i think my clutch is goin.. this morning i went to put it in reverse and it wouldnt.. i had to shut the car off.. put it in reverse.. turn the car back on.. then it went in reverse... then i went to put it in 1st to go foward but it wouldnt come out of reverse...i had to shut the car off again... its really hard to shift gears and grinds a little out of nowhere(didnt do it till yesterday) wat do u think? also im only 2 1/2 hrs from u (wytheville,va) maybe u could come down? u have a pm
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Old November 12th, 2007, 06:15 PM   #124
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Wow, use this how to and take me about 7hrs including changing motor mounts! And if was my first time. Ready to change my intake now.
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Old November 19th, 2007, 03:07 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisWilliams_GT
I just PM'd this to mrduke to help him with his weekend coming up, figured it could go in here as well.:

My best time is 1 hr 37 minutes

OK, as in Spaceballs, here's the Short, short, short version:
  • jack up car
  • remove driver wheel/tire
  • begin drain on transmission plug - 23 mm.
  • remove two strut-to-hub 17mm bolts
  • remove abs sensor from hub (2) 12mm
  • remove crossmember (6) 17mm bolts
  • remove engine cradle (2) 17mm nuts, (2) 14mm nuts, (2) 17mm bolts, and the front motor mount thru bolt (17mm)
  • use chisel and hammer to pop axle from transmission. the hub will swing out far enough to pull the axle out of the transmission, barely.
  • remove the whole slave cylinder itself from transmission (2) 12mm
  • DO NOT OPEN/mess with the line (this way you won't have to rebleed it)
  • pop retailer clip from transmission bracket and lay this up and to the side
  • use the overflow as a hook for it to keep it up and out of the way
  • disconnect starter wire (12mm) and solenoid wire (male to female, squeeze and pull)
  • remove single 17mm nut on upper motor mount to free up big ground.
  • pull up wireharness out of the way to gain access to more bolts
  • remove single ground wire 10mm bolt, other 4wire ground wire 10mm bolt, the bracket they were attached to, and throw the bracket away.
  • weight reduction
  • remove 10mm bolt on rear motormount to transmission brace
  • remove 10mm bolt on main transmission ground wire (black w/ yellow stripe)
  • unplug VSS (grey plug, 2 wire, into top rear of trans vertically)
  • unplug PNP Switch (black 2 wire plug near fuel filter, comes up from underneath)
  • unplug reverse lights switch (2 wire white plug, under starter)
  • begin with removing transmission to engine 17mm bolts, 3 across the top, 2 down the front
  • remove inspection plate (3) 14mm bolts
  • remove shifterlinkage bar (12mm)
  • remove shifter stabilizer bar (14mm)
  • remove 3 rear motormount to transmission 17mm bolts, Start on the TOP One and work down (trust me)
  • remove rear 17mm engine to transmission bolt.
  • remove front lower 17mm engine to transmission bolt., it is a stubby one, remember where it goes
  • leave in lower rear 14mm engine to transmission bolt (trust me)
  • remove 2 10mm nuts on fuel filter
  • remove 17mm bolt from lower leg of upper trans mount accessible now you have moved the fuel filter out of the way (just pop it over one stud to the left)
  • at this time wedge axle input shaft up into the loop of the lower fuel hose, it'll hold it there up and out of the way (trust me for later)
  • secure jack under the motor, use exhaust piping, it'll hold ....(or oil pan....it'll be fine)
  • MARK their orientation in the motor mount bracket (front to rear, the hole is slotted) first with a silver sharpie or something, then remove remaining 2 nuts and single 17mm bolt on upper transmission mount. marking them will help in alignment later for rear 3 17mm MM to MTX bolt install
  • transmission should sag down a bit, but not fall (remember 14mm bolt from above?)
  • get under transmission and remove 14mm bolt.
  • using bench press technique, grab starter with right hand and rear of trans (around the shifter linkage input) with left hand
  • slide transmission off motor....flathead screwdriver and wedge from earlier will help a stubborn contestant.

do clutch replacement and FW? if applicable.

MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH IS DEAD CENTER....use the alignment tool.

Tricks on install:

installation is reverse of removal but.....
Note orientation on upper 2 MM bolts and 2 studs.

use automotive lubricant on input shaft, teeth, and T.O. bearing shaft. hit the steel sleeves on the edge of the bell housing as well, to help it sink when you seat it.

you didn't mess with the passenger side on purpose, because now you have a shaft that will help you guide the transmission back home.

When you go to put it in, sink that shaft first, then play with the alignment on the input shaft.

Careful, it can/will fall back off even if you think you got it on....so thread that 14 mm bolt back in when you can get it to line up to secure the transmission

Oh, add fluid, pump clutch a few times first, and check your engagement before you get it down.

good luck, that is the short, short, short, short, short, version.
Do you have any pics to go with that. i need to install a new clutch and it would be great if alongside the instructions we got pics as well.
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