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  • Originally posted by stoker100 View Post
    which bracket? mine was a direct bolt on.
    Both items (complete calipers/rotors) are supposed to be 2006 Speed 6 items. I am wondering if either one sent the wrong year -or if the rotors are made incorrectly. The calipers appear to be extremely good quality rebuilds from Cardone. It is my first time buying from them and I am highly impressed with the quality of the rebuild. They look like brand new calipers.

    I am concerned that the problem child is the rotors which are made custom (supposedly) by Hydrabrake in Canada. They were supposed to be black chromium -but they are more of a bronze chromium and they do not look to be as high of a quality as the Cardone calipers.

    My rear 626 black chromium rotors are from a different manufacturer and are very high quality -and are black as advertised. I had no problem with fitment on those.

    I don't know where to go from here unless someone else has had problems with fitment. When I get home tonight I will try to post up some high def photos -and perhaps someone might be able to spot the problem.

    Here is one of the calipers I bought:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/172067974532...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    and here are the rotors:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/252299836875...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    Last edited by KLZE Porsche; April 8, 2016, 04:42 AM.
    Success is a measure of determination!
    Bonneville Dreamer-(AKA Purple Pimp Mobile)
    $500 Gas-Electric-Gas Reconversion/Restoration
    Mini-me & 500k "Old Gal" RIP
    Restoration of a legend

    Comment


    • 2006-2009|MAZDA|6:: ALL ENGINES ARE SUPPORTED

      I assume they don't know that there are differences between the models. The MS6 rotors are different from the other models on the 6. They probably sold you the smaller rotors for the non-MS6 cars.

      Measure?
      Currently buying all my parts for my future part-out thread...https://forums.probetalk.com/core/im.../icon_look.gif
      STEVE B
      1993 Probe GT
      2016 Mustang

      Comment


      • Those brackets and calipers are a direct bolt on. I highly suspect those no name "black chromium" coated rotors that fit all Mazda 6's are your problem.

        Coated rotors are a scam. Drilled rotors will crack. Get a good set of Centric High Carbon or Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors.
        JoBo Racing: https://www.facebook.com/JoBoRacing
        '93 Mazda 626
        '94 Ford Probe SE

        Comment


        • Originally posted by SBPGT View Post
          ...They probably sold you the smaller rotors for the non-MS6 cars.

          Measure?
          Yes -that was going to be my first move this morning. I was also suspecting they sent me standard MS6 (non-speed) rotors.

          So to all those that buy this combination -test fit first before doing anything else. I was going to paint the rotors black for rust protection -and it is a good thing I didn't.

          P.S. Done anything with your cams yet? I am going to start building the engine for the Black Probe this weekend with the Colt Cams.

          P.S. P.S. I measured the discs and they are 11.8" meaning that they are NOT MazdaSpeed 6 rotors as they were advertised.
          Last edited by KLZE Porsche; April 9, 2016, 11:33 AM.
          Success is a measure of determination!
          Bonneville Dreamer-(AKA Purple Pimp Mobile)
          $500 Gas-Electric-Gas Reconversion/Restoration
          Mini-me & 500k "Old Gal" RIP
          Restoration of a legend

          Comment


          • Originally posted by KLZE Porsche View Post
            P.S. Done anything with your cams yet? I am going to start building the engine for the Black Probe this weekend with the Colt Cams.
            Not yet. I need to get a wheel off because the tread is pealing off. I lost the socket for the wheel lock and have to use a emergency lug remover. Then I need to get the car to emissions and registered for two years. Then the cams, turbo, MS3x, etc... go on.


            P.S. I just passed emission test! (.11 out 1.00HC , 1.80 out of 12.00 CO and .84 out 0f 2.50 NOX) Been out driving around for the past 45 min. enjoying my car that I haven't driven for 6 months...
            Last edited by SBPGT; April 9, 2016, 05:17 PM.
            Currently buying all my parts for my future part-out thread...https://forums.probetalk.com/core/im.../icon_look.gif
            STEVE B
            1993 Probe GT
            2016 Mustang

            Comment


            • Had no issue with my MS6 setup. Fit up perfectly.
              PaTricK
              ~ 92 PGT, 97 KL MTX 626, 05 Mazda6, 13 Mazda CX9, 09 Kia Sportage 4x4 v6 ~

              Comment


              • Originally posted by d15b7 View Post
                hi mike!

                the dual piston front caliper setup is the ONLY way to go, if you are going to be asking for extreme performance from your car (such as extended road race, or in your case, turbocharged extreme power car). the dual pistons give a great 'feel' when squeezing the pedal, and keep even pressure across the large front pad, so as to avoid 'banana-ing' of the pad under extreme circumstances. i designed my racing bbk around the millenia dual piston calipers for just those reasons; no way i was going to go with a single piston caliper ever again.

                on to your situation -- i don't have any direct experience with the fusion (or whatever they exactly are, dual piston calipers), but you need to make CAREFUL measurements to make sure that when the caliper is bolted up to the knuckle, that it is centered exactly over the rotor (so that you can fit full thickness pads on both sides without one side being too narrow, etc). also, the outer edge of the top of the pad must line up pretty much exactly with the top of whatever rotor you have picked to use; you don't want it hanging over or under the rotor edge (this will create problems for sure). you don't need to be as concerned with where the bottom edge of the pad ends up, as long as it does not interfere with the rotor 'hat'. i think that milling 1/16" off the bracket should not cause any problems with strength of your system, but be sure that when you chuck up the caliper bracket in the mill, that you get it totally 'square' and not milled at an angle! i'd also recommend trying to utilize the absolute thickest rotor that you can manage to fit inside those calipers; a thicker rotor will absorb and release more heat than a thinner one, and will resist fading much better. it will also resist cracking during race situations much better (when my road race probe had stock oem brake calipers and rotors on it, i'd have to replace the front rotors (and race pads) every weekend; after i upgraded to my bbk, rotors are now lasting about 20+ race weekends, and pads are lasting 7-8 weekends. all heat control! the rotor my bbk uses is the Mitsu 3000 GT VR4 TT (later models, 1995+) front rotor; it is about 12.2" in dia, and is 1.2" thick. it was the absolute biggest, baddest rotor that i could fit under the stock oem 16" wheels, when using the millenia S dual piston front caliper. instead of trying to modify the knuckle or caliper brackets, as you are trying to do, i instead manufacture a pair of CNC S/S adapter brackets and hardware to make it a bolt-on affair. you might want to consider going this route, too, for simplicity of your system? if you are handy with a mill and lathe, and you have some time to kill, you might be able to make a set of sturdy brackets up for yourself....

                good luck with your front bbk!

                sincerely,
                todd
                ReidSpeed

                PS nothing outbrakes me in my class with my ReidSpeed BBK system; it is very comforting to know that i can come down into the braking zone and outwait everyone!

                Just reading through this thread again, doing some research on BBK, and I found this on another site...which pertains to this thread Mazda 6 brakes and the post above...


                Pads on the right are Hawk HP+ track pads after 2hrs on track at VIR (they started new). Pads on the left are new Hawk HP+ track pads I installed before heading to CMP.

                Brake pads

                After 3.5hrs on track at CMP (the place is known to be brutal on brakes), here's how my calipers looked.

                Calipers

                They were smoking as I entered the pits. The rubber seals around the pistons, just about gone. Caliper discolored from the heat.

                Here are the pads:

                Banana pads 1

                Banana pads 2

                The single piston design focused all the clamping force on one point and as the friction material wore at that point combined with the very high temperatures, the piston was able to bend the backing plate.

                Performance wise - the brakes worked well. The track pads have a stable Cf so I saw no fade. My brake fluid was fresh and has a boiling point over 500deg. The only thing I noticed driving the car, was the pedal getting lower as the friction material wore away.
                Currently buying all my parts for my future part-out thread...https://forums.probetalk.com/core/im.../icon_look.gif
                STEVE B
                1993 Probe GT
                2016 Mustang

                Comment


                • Holy crap Batman! That is some serious braking.
                  Success is a measure of determination!
                  Bonneville Dreamer-(AKA Purple Pimp Mobile)
                  $500 Gas-Electric-Gas Reconversion/Restoration
                  Mini-me & 500k "Old Gal" RIP
                  Restoration of a legend

                  Comment

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