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Basic Maintenance Recommendations for New Owner(s)

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Brady View Post
    I am just now working on my timing belt and water pump, so I had these already printed out:
    Edit: Had the wrong URL for one.

    http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...erpump+gaskets

    Here is one for a Mazda MX6, which is mechanically about the same as a Probe:
    http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-eng...n-updated.html

    I also have one by HotRodTom entitled:
    "1989 LX 2.2, timing belt- what about cover gaskets? Any tips?"
    started on Sept. 13th, 2005, 02:12 PM, but for some reason I can't find it in the forum history.

    HTH, Brady
    LOL that seems like years ago- well, I guess it was. Here's the link, everyone was very helpful when I did that job.... ya know, I think that may have been one of my first messages here. http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701171937

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    • #17
      other than mentioned above, id go and flush the cooling system and get new coolant. if the brake fluid is pretty dark id replace it too.

      oh and while you're doing the timing belt, its a good idea to see that theres no leak behind the crankshaft pulley because theres a rubber gasket behind it and as you're probably seen now its a big job to remove all that again if you need to change it later on. 3-5$ prolly for the gasket.

      id also check the other belts for wear and tear when changing the timing belt.

      Ford Probe 2.2T -92
      myfordprobe.blogspot.com
      My Probe work blog

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      • #18
        Duplicate post.
        Last edited by Brady; October 1, 2010, 02:46 PM.
        '89 Ford Probe LX, 2.2 nonturbo, 5 speed
        No wonder my car broke down; the mechanic put BREAK FLUID in it!

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        • #19
          Stickied since this is a question that is becoming more frequent for people picking up a 20 year old car.
          Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
          1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
          "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

          Enjoy PT? Support it.

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          • #20
            Since I am presently working on some of these things, I thought I could give you an idea of the degree of difficulty of the various parts. If you get a Haynes manual and a tool kit such as Tom mentioned, you should be able to do a timing belt without any trouble. As for the tensioning pulley and the idler pulley, removing them is not too hard, but it is awkward to reach the bolts. I found that I could reach the bolt for the tensioning pulley from above with an offset end wrench that is so cheap it doesn't even have a manufacturer's name on it (14mm). If you can reach them with the tools you have, it is not that much trouble. The trouble is in getting the bolts started back in for replacement, but with two people, one above and one below it should be easier. If they are too hard to get to, I wouldn't worry about them now if they don't make a noise when you spin them with the belt off; just keep in mind what kind of tool would have made it possible (or easier). (I just ordered a set of extra-short sockets to make it easier.) Mine have lasted for 270,000 miles. (I am replacing them now.) My kit didn't come with a new spring, and the old spring must have been kind of weak, because when I checked the tension it was too slack, so I helped it a little with a prybar. It is supposed to deflect between 0.30" and 0.33" when a 22 lb. force is applied halfway between the pulleys. I don't have a gauge, but you can tell pretty well using a straight edge and an educated thumb. To educate your thumb, just see how hard it is to register 22 lbs. on a bathroom scale with your thumb. I also rigged up a device with a fish scale to doublecheck.

            The seals are not too difficult if you can get the camshaft and crankshaft bolts off; that's when a good impact wrench comes in handy. You just have to be very careful not to scratch the shaft. I tried drilling with the idea of putting in a small screw, but gave up, because the drill bit wanted to walk on me, so I drove an awl (ice pick) into the middle of the seal and worried it around until I had a big enough hole to insert the end of a seal puller. You might be able to rent/borrow one of those from AutoZone. I was too chicken to try prying right at the outside edge of the seal. I used a large socket to drive the new seal in; you could also use the appropriate size pvc coupling for plastic pipe. Again, if you don't feel up to it now, this is not something that will leave you stranded.

            I would say that the water pump is a little harder still. The main problem is being able to reach all of the bolts. Some people have talked about removing one of the engine mounts in order to get clearance. I didn't need to do this, because I had the camshaft pulley off and that gave me enough clearance. Here again, it isn't too hard if you can reach all of the bolts with the tools you have, so I would check before I bought the water pump or at least make sure you can return it. Note that the bolt to the left of the tensioning pulley is shorter than the others. I didn't notice this when I removed them and I put one of the long ones in that hole ( with considerable difficulty) and it bottomed out and I had to remove it. One thing that you can do to prevent this is to take a piece of cardboard, make a rough sketch of the part, then poke a hole and leave the bolt where it would go. (Another thing you can do, especially if you are going to be working on it in shifts, is to put nuts and bolts that go together in baggies and mark with a sharpie where they go.) Again, if you are not up to it at this time, a leaky water pump with usually give you ample warning if you watch your coolant level and watch for leaks; not something that will leave you stranded. They can be intermittant leaks; sometimes they will leak while sitting and other times not, depending on where the shaft happens to stop, at least that's how the old Chevy's were.

            If you can't get all of these things done the first time, I wouldn't be too concerned. Just keep in mind what stopped you and what tools that you need to get to finish the job. As far as having to do some of the work over; you will be much faster the second time around.
            Last edited by Brady; October 4, 2010, 08:33 PM.
            '89 Ford Probe LX, 2.2 nonturbo, 5 speed
            No wonder my car broke down; the mechanic put BREAK FLUID in it!

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            • #21
              Get a set of ratchet box end wrenches also, they work great on the probe.

              or 22 year old car Anamoly, made in 88' at the factory.
              Need a chip or parts for your 1st gen GT go here----->Fordprobeparts.com

              Floridafordprobeowners.club

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              • #22
                definetally get a basic oil change and flush your radiator first.
                then i would change the plugs and air filter.

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                • #23
                  Just recently bought a Haynes manual.
                  Great investment

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