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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Performance Discussion of Performance topics for V6 2.5L

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Old October 10th, 2017, 09:00 AM   #1
rod bender
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A mystery code.

My 95 GT will not start. I get a code 3 and a 41. OBD 1 of course. My Hanes book says 3 is cam sensor. The book does not list a 41. Are there other codes listed somewhere?Also when I back probe the red with black line wire that provides current to the distributor that powers the cam position sensor there is no current. I notice this wire also goes to about a half dozen other places. Surely I will not have to go from this point to every other sensor and position that has the red with black. Is there not a simpler way to diagnose this issue? Maybe the 41 code will provide a solution.
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Old October 10th, 2017, 06:54 PM   #2
dmark101
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check out this page: SCPOC - Ford Probe Diagnostic Codes - 2nd Generation (OBD-I - 1993 to 1995)

Code 03 - Cylinder Identification (CID) Sensor

Code 41 - Variable Resonance Induction System (VRIS) Solenoid #1/High Speed Inlet Air (HSIA) Solenoid
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Old October 11th, 2017, 03:08 PM   #3
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The wire for the CPS goes up and down near the dipstick. Do you have timing covers on? Mine aren't on, so my CPS wire is zip tied to the dipstick tube but still very close to moving parts. It's one place to check.
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Old October 12th, 2017, 04:38 PM   #4
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Thanks for the response dmark and Blue. I will be sure to check that area.
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Old October 13th, 2017, 09:51 AM   #5
rod bender
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My Haynes book says the cam position sensor is in the distributor. However, I do not seem to be getting any current to the distributor on the red and black line wire. Also, does the virs which gives a code 41 have anything to do with the cam sensor? What if I just run battery current to the red/black wire connection at the distributor?
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Old October 13th, 2017, 04:46 PM   #6
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No, do not hookup 12v to anything like that. That is a good way to make sure something is broken. What wire is the red/black wire, what is it supposed to do?

You should be able to read the wire out. I.e. disconnect at both ends ends and use a meter to read whether the wire is open somewhere. If one end is in the car and the other under the hood, you ground the wire at one end to the chassis (the outer part of the cigarette lighter works as a ground) and touch the red meter lead to the other end of the wire and the black lead to the chassis completing the circuit. If it reads 0 or a few ohms the wire is good. O.L. or really high resistance the wire could be broken. Also test if the wire reads to ground without your added wire. If it does then you could have a short.
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