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My 1994 PGT Build Thread

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  • My 1994 PGT Build Thread

    Edit: Pictures reduced to links to make room under the 10 pics/thread cap. Newest pics see post # 474!







    The story and purpose of the purple car to me is as follows:
    • to push my fabrication abilities farther than every before - metal work, fiberglass, paint, electrical, etc.
    • to perfect said abilities before further modifying our beloved 98 Cobra
    • to create a car unmatched in craftsmanship or quality that sets a new standard for other PGT owners to try to achieve
    • to create a car that is so far customized it can never be replicated, even by myself, yet is practical, easy to service, more reliable than factory, and decently quick
    • to create a slightly modified daily driver, then take it all back apart a second time and with no limits on time, money, or effort, create the greatest PGT of my sixteen for one last hurrah before I exit the KL community permanently.


    The purpose of this thread to me is as follows:
    • to chronologize the time, talent, tools, labor, pain and suffering it takes to accomplish said goals
    • to break down the overall picture into smaller projects, and to some extent how-to's, for other PGT owners to pick and choose from
    • to document the other things going on in my life at the time of the build to give a perspective as to the energy, time, money, and obstacles a project like this has
    • to aspire PGT owners too far to ever see the car in person to venture out beyond the bolt ons EVERYONE AND THEIR MOTHER does


    Feel free to ask any questions - I may chose not to answer to protect my business "secrets," but I freely share 99.9% of my information. When in doubt as to the taste or style of something I do, remember this said by the great Dan [Sac]:
    1. This is my car.
    2. This is not your car.
    Last edited by 95PGTTech; April 10, 2009, 01:54 PM.

  • #2
    Make sure your brake line are equal length other wise you might get some problems.
    93 PGT Kitted and all -sold,
    Current 93 PGT-ZE-T So far: 12" brakes, ZE, T3/T4 turbo, 2.5" exhaust , ACT 6-puck, MSD6AL+2step, Coilovers, 245/45/17x9 cobra r, 67mm TB, MS II, traction bars, meth inj. and more.
    1980 Corvette Vortec 350 and side pipes

    OBJECTS IN THE MIRROR ARE LOSING

    Comment


    • #3
      looks good man!

      thanks again for the parts
      Turbo'd 94 Mx6 12.87 @ 115 on 5 psi.
      Built by Me, eBay and zip ties.
      96 White M-Edition mx6 Being built with above's parts, just less tip ties and sketchyness.

      Comment


      • #4
        One of my biggest criticisms of this forum was that for all the great ideas and dreams, few rarely act on them. I decided it was time I put up or shut up.

        Thank you to all the people who contributed to this thread, and more suggestions are always welcome!

        Four honest hours of hard work on an already project car resulted in this progress on the driver side of the engine bay:

        Big things I completely removed today to get to this point:
        • ABS module
        • front brake lines
        • small engine harness
        • fuse box/front of car harness
        • EVAP canister
        • battery/battery tray
        • about six misc brackets to hold that stuff on
        • airbag wiring on driver side
        • cruise control module, cable, and vacuum line


        Granted, there is a lot of stuff there that needs to go back. I need to run two brake lines from the master cylinder straight down under the car. I need to put the windshield wiper motor connector back. I need to run the big vacuum line to the brake booster. But for example, have you ever looked in the top right corner of the engine bay where those two relays are on the bracket? On that part of the harness, there are two big ABS connectors, the front driver side wheel speed sensor, the brake fluid low warning light connector, the windshield wiper motor connector, the two relays, and the connector for the hood light. Out of eight connectors, ONE is necessary. There are THREE brackets holding those eight connectors on, sheesh.

        I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the fuel lines. I really like how the factory did them, plain and simple, but now with everything gone you do see a bit of hard line that I would rather not see. I am going to try and progress over the next few days across the firewall and down the driver side of the engine bay. At this point, I did not remove what I believe to be the proportioning valve on the firewall or the two lines going out of it because those are the rear brake lines and they are a continuous piece to the back of the car...I will cut them at some point but I want to get a lot better with my double flaring tool on my practice pieces before I need to do it on the car on pieces that count.

        The current plan of attack is to get the engine bay situated how I want it in terms of tucking the wiring harness and eliminating what I deem "unnecessary". Finish the current bit of projects, get the car running and driving again. I have a built motor and a big turbo for this thing, when I bring the car back into the garage to do those (building my own pipes), I'm going to have to do a bunch more wiring and vacuum lines, so after that is finished and I know where everything needs to go, I'll start taping off and welding up holes and cutting non-used studs off. Drop everything out and paint the bay.

        http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/IMG_2924.jpg

        http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/IMG_2925.jpg

        http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/IMG_2926.jpg

        http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/IMG_2927.jpg

        http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/IMG_2931.jpg

        http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/IMG_2935.jpg

        http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/IMG_2936.jpg

        http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/IMG_2937.jpg

        To give you an idea, this is the stock mess I started off the day similar to:
        http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...7_155_full.jpg

        Originally posted by artsvetkov View Post
        Make sure your brake line are equal length other wise you might get some problems.
        I did not consider that, thanks for the tip. The rear brake lines are much longer than the stock front, I guess you want the rear hitting a millisecond or so later than the fronts, along with the proportioning valve sending the fronts more pressure in comparison?

        Come to think of it, I removed the front right and left side brake lines today. I'll take a picture to show you what I'm talking about, but the stock driver side is about 12" of hard line at max, where as the passenger side is about five feet long. Is this somehow compensated for by the ABS module?

        Does anyone have pictures of the brake lines on the master and firewall (prop valve) on their non-ABS PGT/MX6?
        Last edited by 95PGTTech; March 29, 2009, 06:40 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by 94PurplePGT View Post
          I did not consider that, thanks for the tip. The rear brake lines are much longer than the stock front, I guess you want the rear hitting a millisecond or so later than the fronts, along with the proportioning valve sending the fronts more pressure in comparison?

          Come to think of it, I removed the front right and left side brake lines today. I'll take a picture to show you what I'm talking about, but the stock driver side is about 12" of hard line at max, where as the passenger side is about five feet long. Is this somehow compensated for by the ABS module?

          Does anyone have pictures of the brake lines on the master and firewall (prop valve) on their non-ABS PGT/MX6?
          The prop valve does this job for you.

          Suggestion, mount the fuel filter on the frame rail maybe, that would clean things up further, or maybe on the firewall.

          looks good though man.

          Comment


          • #6
            very nice dude, if i had a garage i'd be doing these kinda things too. good job and i cant wait to see it finished!
            95 mx6 with a 4 lug swap
            Built, Not Bought.
            No, my username is Not from that stupid movie.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Lt. Dangle View Post
              The prop valve does this job for you.

              Suggestion, mount the fuel filter on the frame rail maybe, that would clean things up further, or maybe on the firewall.

              looks good though man.
              I have a feeling that's how it's going to be, I'm debating what to do. I'm going to be running stainless lines from the tank on up, I need a filter right off the fuel hat I probably also will have one up front somewhere down on the d/s rail before I bring the lines up. The question is just to do it now or not worry about it until I'm doing the other turbo stuff, I'm A.D.D. bad and I don't want to start too many things or I won't finish any of them.

              Or I could be really slick and run it up the passenger side frame rail since so much of that stuff is hidden, would have one hell of a time keeping it away from the belts and accessories.

              Originally posted by polarexpress17 View Post
              very nice dude, if i had a garage i'd be doing these kinda things too. good job and i cant wait to see it finished!
              Despite how it looks, I did most of this outside today in 15 degree weather, I had a customer's car to finish inside. He picked up right as it was getting dark out so I pushed the Probe inside. You don't need a garage, or fancy tools, or any know-how, just a willingness to go balls out and be willing to screw up.
              Last edited by 95PGTTech; January 15, 2009, 08:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

              Comment


              • #8
                I was referring to the front L and R, thats why they coil those lines plus its helps cooling. Im not sure, but in theory the driver side should be coiled since its closer to mater brake cyl.
                93 PGT Kitted and all -sold,
                Current 93 PGT-ZE-T So far: 12" brakes, ZE, T3/T4 turbo, 2.5" exhaust , ACT 6-puck, MSD6AL+2step, Coilovers, 245/45/17x9 cobra r, 67mm TB, MS II, traction bars, meth inj. and more.
                1980 Corvette Vortec 350 and side pipes

                OBJECTS IN THE MIRROR ARE LOSING

                Comment


                • #9
                  looking good, ive never been a fan of wire tucking, it makes it look to gutted props for doin it though, cant wait to see it done
                  2012 Ford Focus Hatch
                  Eibach Pro-Kit. AEM CAI, Magnaflow Exhaust. Steeda Rear Sway Bar. RS Spoiler. RS Hood. 18" MSW Wheels
                  16.28 @ 86.56

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    ^yes my brother had to put all new brake lines in his 85 monte carlo when he had it, he just ran the brake line straight to the wheel wells, uneven lengths and when you hit the brakes the car would just pull to the front drivers side cause thats where all the pressure would be
                    95 mx6 with a 4 lug swap
                    Built, Not Bought.
                    No, my username is Not from that stupid movie.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      BTW FWD is diagonal brake sys. means that port 1 is RF LR, port 2 LF RR, therefore length of RF LR must = LF RR.
                      93 PGT Kitted and all -sold,
                      Current 93 PGT-ZE-T So far: 12" brakes, ZE, T3/T4 turbo, 2.5" exhaust , ACT 6-puck, MSD6AL+2step, Coilovers, 245/45/17x9 cobra r, 67mm TB, MS II, traction bars, meth inj. and more.
                      1980 Corvette Vortec 350 and side pipes

                      OBJECTS IN THE MIRROR ARE LOSING

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by MakatoMotors View Post
                        looking good, ive never been a fan of wire tucking, it makes it look to gutted props for doin it though, cant wait to see it done
                        There is still going to be plenty of crap in this engine bay, it's a Ford/Mazda cooperation vehicle. LOL. I'm sure the turbo will add a ton of additional stuff too.

                        Originally posted by artsvetkov View Post
                        BTW FWD is diagonal brake sys. means that port 1 is RF LR, port 2 LF RR, therefore length of RF LR must = LF RR.
                        Port 1 is the one on the master cylinder closest to the firewall, correct? I'm hoping my Ford service manual has some diagrams of the stock non-ABS PGT brake lines to help me out.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well im not sure, port 1/2 was just demo talk, what I meant is one port splits into RF LR, and another into LF RR. On RWD car one port goes to rear and another is for the fronts.
                          93 PGT Kitted and all -sold,
                          Current 93 PGT-ZE-T So far: 12" brakes, ZE, T3/T4 turbo, 2.5" exhaust , ACT 6-puck, MSD6AL+2step, Coilovers, 245/45/17x9 cobra r, 67mm TB, MS II, traction bars, meth inj. and more.
                          1980 Corvette Vortec 350 and side pipes

                          OBJECTS IN THE MIRROR ARE LOSING

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Seems like wire tucks have become really popular now. I've seen articles in a couple of different mags lately.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              For me, the reasoning was:
                              • not many other people are rollin' baller like this in a PGT
                              • to make my engine bay visually better and easier to work on
                              • the more room I free up pre-turbo kit, the more piping options I have, and the more I can think about running the pipes in a cosmetic, and functional way
                              • push my skills, and I was bored...and, to prove some PTers wrong


                              Foxbody/SN95 Mustangs are easy to do, that's where I learned it. In a 94/95 Mustang, it practically has bolts inside the fender for the fuse box. You need to add about 6" of wiring to the headlight wires and that's it! The whole harness runs through the fender and front bumper or up the back of the motor and is nearly undetectable.

                              It's not so easy on the Probe...lol...

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