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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old February 5th, 2018, 05:34 AM   #1
Popeye92
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Starting issue after engine swap

Hi,

My 1994 probe died when a cylinder came loose and totaled the block. Luckily i have a 96 car for parts. But after the engine swap it runs rich, and is really hard to start when cold. Before the engine swap the only issue was that it burned lots of oil.


I have tried everything i can think of including:
changing Throttle body, injection and vacuum solenoids.
changed maf
checked distributor timing.
checked O2 sensor
blocked egr
checked to the best of my knowledge vacuum lines

none of the above has changed anything and i am beginning to give up. Is there anything u guys can think of?

I also have an issue with the ecu i think, i can never get any codes by shorting ten-gnd, and the radiator fan goes on at weird times. Like when my probe wouldn't start in -20C(-4 Fahrenheit) the fan started.

Thanks for any tips and sorry for any bad English!
Cheers from Norway
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Old February 5th, 2018, 06:45 AM   #2
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It's been a bit since I have really done anything to my probe since I'm preparing to buying another one but I know on at least OBD ll vehicles if there is no connectivity at the dlc it is tied to a fuse commonly a room fuse, but this may be the case with the one on the probe with the OBD l dlc connector.

And the motor you just put in was burning oil?

Do a search for the tps adjustment for a possible fix for the fan issue unless you have a bad ect sensor.
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Last edited by Level 9; February 5th, 2018 at 06:53 PM.
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Old February 5th, 2018, 07:35 AM   #3
BLUEnoEQ
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Level 9 is this the car formerly known as a Probe? Popeye92 has the timing belt skipped a tooth, fuel pressure regulator plugged in correctly?
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Old February 5th, 2018, 08:00 AM   #4
Popeye92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Level 9 View Post
It's been a bit since I have really done anything to my prince since I'm preparing to buying another one but I know on at least OBD ll vehicles if there is no connectivity at the dlc it is tied to a fuse commonly a room fuse, but this may be the case with the one on the probe with the OBD l dlc connector.

And the motor you just put in was burning oil?

Do a search for the tps adjustment for a possible fix for the fan issue unless you have a bad ect sensor.
The "new" engine has not been burning oil yet so that's good! I have tried 2 different ect sensors and i have tried both tps from the engines including adjustment and its no easier to start.

If i get it started it runs at about 750 rpm and no problems other than it running rich

Thx for reply!
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Old February 5th, 2018, 08:07 AM   #5
Popeye92
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Originally Posted by BLUEnoEQ View Post
Level 9 is this the car formerly known as a Probe? Popeye92 has the timing belt skipped a tooth, fuel pressure regulator plugged in correctly?
I changed the timing belt when i changed the engine so i`m hoping that's correct, and the fuel pressure regulator i have swapped between old and new engine. I have tried troubleshooting the vacuum but its so hard to see between engine and firewall.

Is there anyway to know the pressure its suppose to be?

Thx for the reply
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Old February 5th, 2018, 01:47 PM   #6
BLUEnoEQ
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Fuel pressure test kit, available for a deposit at most auto parts stores. I suck at doing the timing, I've screwed it up numerous times. Easy to check if you didn't put the timing covers back on.
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Old February 5th, 2018, 06:01 PM   #7
xrp861
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Lazy o2 sensor, base timing and idle set wrong, whatever bank is rich could also be off a tooth on timing, intake or vac leak, possibly egr carbonated and needs cleaned. Come on this is an easy car to work on now days and all the info is here if you look. Pull codes and report back we really can't do a thing with out those.
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Old February 5th, 2018, 06:55 PM   #8
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Lol damn auto type on this phone is a pita. If you can check the fuses to get your dlc working again so you can pull the codes that would help a lot. Does the CEO illuminate when you turn the key on? Just to be sure by dumb luck the bulb just isn't burned out
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Old February 6th, 2018, 03:38 AM   #9
Popeye92
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Lol damn auto type on this phone is a pita. If you can check the fuses to get your dlc working again so you can pull the codes that would help a lot. Does the CEO illuminate when you turn the key on? Just to be sure by dumb luck the bulb just isn't burned out
I have no cel and i have never had it as long as i have had the car! But i know the light works as i test it regularly.

When i visited a friend who has a auto shop we tried his diagnostics tool and when he tried to get the codes the abs light started blinking codes in the dash. I have never heard of anyone getting codes on the abs so i not sure if that was codes. The codes i got was:

15: left o2 sensor
19: no idea
25: fuel pressure solenoid

i have tried to fault check both o2 sensor and fuel pressure solenoid but both seem to be working. Any tips on have to troubleshoot them?
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Old February 6th, 2018, 09:48 PM   #10
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You can check the solenoid with a meter to see if it's open or high resistance, no I don't know the specs. Make sure the O2 sensor is plugged in. Also both of those things plug in near each other, see if there's any messed up wires, anything obvious.
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Old February 12th, 2018, 02:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Fuel pressure test kit, available for a deposit at most auto parts stores. I suck at doing the timing, I've screwed it up numerous times. Easy to check if you didn't put the timing covers back on.
I hear ya, after my 3rd attempt of the day last weekend putting mine back on after finishing my crank seal replacement, I finally figured out the trick that makes it simple.

Keep the top timing belt Idler Pulley removed, get the crank lined up, and line up your cams, get the belt on as tight as you can without struggling. Put your 17mm wrench on the front cam, while pulling up on the belt, move the cam one tooth clockwise and let it grab the belt, then move it back to your timing mark, it will take all the slack out of that side. go to the rear cam, put your wrench on it move it counter clockwise one tooth while pulling up on the belt, let it grab the belt and move it back to the timing mark. now you won't have any slack in the belt at all and it will be in time, put the top idler pulley in, rotate the motor twice and make sure everything lines up, done.
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Old February 13th, 2018, 09:42 PM   #12
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I'm just going to do it on the stand the next 2 times
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