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The Photo and Video Gallery Have a TASTEFUL funny pic or non-probe video, or just want to show off your good looks? Put it here!

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Old May 17th, 2016, 12:20 PM   #26
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So there's a kl, kj and fe? RX car being built all at the same time? Who says this place is dead and which one will be the fastest?
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Old May 18th, 2016, 05:07 PM   #27
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I think it's an ok project.

































Good luck mate - looks fierce.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 06:08 PM   #28
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ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT!! this was my initial thought when I was choosing an engine for my swap. I like you was much in the same boat with the rotary and the FD I opted for the FE3 as the adapter plate and flywheel spacer seemed a little too much to do for me without a mill.

KUDOS to you for pulling this off. I just have a couple of questions for you about the subframe clearances. how did it clear the power steering rack? and how about your engine mounts?

SUBSCRIBED!!
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Old June 21st, 2016, 11:39 AM   #29
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RX-8s are much cheaper than 3rd gen RX-7s, that's why I chose mine based on price, can't beat $2100 for 2004 clean title RX.
Also, the RX8 handle much better than the RX7. Its ideal for a track car with its extremly low price and awesome handling.
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Old August 20th, 2016, 11:58 AM   #30
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Any updates? I love this engine and wish it were easier to put into my Miata.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 06:19 PM   #31
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Bueller? Bueller?
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Old September 7th, 2016, 05:01 AM   #32
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Thanks for all the feedback! I will update soon and address the questions. In short the car is running again, I love that KL sound, unfortunately I've ran out of money to put it on the road. Back at uni again and fees have devoured my bank balance. I've a good few photos etc to update though
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Old October 7th, 2017, 12:21 PM   #33
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It's road legal at last! Emissions passed.





Recently upgraded to aluminium rad with a thicker core. Fighting some overheating. Might have to put the rad in front of the intercooler to prioritise it. May also reinstate one of the original oil coolers to help control temps. Getting up to 110deg and having to pull over, not ideal. Thermostat is brand new OEM. Not sure why I'm struggling to maintain sensible temps when the mx3 KLDET ran with a rad half the thickness. Airflow is quite minimal I suppose.

Excuse the photos with a loose intercooler as I just popped the rad in to test it without boost. You can see how short the KL is, which was handy for not having to move the steering rack, you could almost fit another one I'm liking the grandis COPs, much cleaner, only running in wasted spark but got tired of HT leads (credit to Sanjay Koolkid Green who worked out they fit a KL) Though I ended up notching my valve cover to get them how I wanted them.

Plans now include:
swap rad and intercooler round
buy another rad fan
wrap the downpipe
reinstate oil cooler
battery relocation
maybe 99 spec front bumper
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Last edited by marcdh; October 7th, 2017 at 12:41 PM.
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Old October 7th, 2017, 02:57 PM   #34
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Bad ass!!!
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Old October 7th, 2017, 05:05 PM   #35
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...I'm liking the grandis COPs, much cleaner, only running in wasted spark but got tired of HT leads (credit to Sanjay Koolkid Green who worked out they fit a KL)...
AWESOME work! More info on the coils please?
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Old October 8th, 2017, 11:13 AM   #36
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This is so sick... god I wish RX7's weren't like $15k for a piece of shit, right now.
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Old October 8th, 2017, 02:23 PM   #37
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Looks great!
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Old October 8th, 2017, 02:39 PM   #38
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Awesome project. I love the white with those gray wheels. What's the weight difference from the rotary?
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Old October 16th, 2017, 02:10 PM   #39
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Thanks for all the feedback! I will update soon and address the questions. In short the car is running again, I love that KL sound, unfortunately I've ran out of money to put it on the road. Back at uni again and fees have devoured my bank balance. I've a good few photos etc to update though
PM Sent. Please let me know.

Thanks.
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Old October 16th, 2017, 03:06 PM   #40
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Diamond Fk0278 coil on plug.
It's a 3 pin COP used in Mitsubishi cars such as Grandis, Outlander and possibly Eclipse, Galant. It's a smart coil so I'm running with ms2 with and TC4427s as per the megasquirt guide. No idea on figures, but working well so far...

Weight wise I did start to calculate it. It was coming in pretty close.

And thanks for all the feedback Have since swapped to an alu rad. Still running hot, so will be employing the rx7 oil cooler(s). Must also include the heater matrix into the plumbing system as an extra way to lose some heat.
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Last edited by marcdh; October 16th, 2017 at 03:11 PM.
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Old October 17th, 2017, 06:42 AM   #41
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...Have since swapped to an alu rad. Still running hot, so will be employing the rx7 oil cooler(s). Must also include the heater matrix into the plumbing system as an extra way to lose some heat.
Can you offset the license plate to one side? It looks like it is a huge cooling air flow obstruction at speed. Or does it just overheat when sitting still at intersections or parked and idling?

P.S. Damned fine job sir!
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Old October 24th, 2017, 07:40 PM   #42
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What about stacking some washers under the hinges to let some heat out at the back of the hood?
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Old October 26th, 2017, 04:20 AM   #43
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What about stacking some washers under the hinges to let some heat out at the back of the hood?
At high speed you tend to generate a high pressure stagnation point where the Hood transitions to the windshield. If you shim your hood it will force the air under the hood creating lift and instability, you want your vent exit in a low pressure region.
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Old October 26th, 2017, 08:27 AM   #44
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At high speed you tend to generate a high pressure stagnation point where the Hood transitions to the windshield. If you shim your hood it will force the air under the hood creating lift and instability, you want your vent exit in a low pressure region.
I thought that the base of the front windscreen is a low pressure region at speed?

http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-20...-1600x1200.jpg

When there begins to be a void in the airstream near the base of the windscreen -isn't that area low pressure?
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Old October 26th, 2017, 01:37 PM   #45
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Okay, yep, you definitely don't want lift. I'll let you 2 hash it out. My thoughts: you have air coming in through the front of the nose, if you give it an outlet it will lower the pressure under the hood reducing lift and the air exiting then goes over the top of the windshield and body. But then... higher speed air over the top of the car could cause lift the way an airplane wing works. The picture is very convincing though -_- Fourth Gen F-bodies, supposedly, got light over 130 if you didn't vent the hood. Willing to hear both sides.
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Old October 26th, 2017, 09:25 PM   #46
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I thought that the base of the front windscreen is a low pressure region at speed?

http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-20...-1600x1200.jpg

When there begins to be a void in the airstream near the base of the windscreen -isn't that area low pressure?
What you are seeing is the velocity profile, zero speed = higher pressure pushing up that smoke stream.



As you can see in this case on probe there is a low pressure spot right after radiator which would be ideal for gt500 or evo style vent.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 08:19 AM   #47
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Well done Marc! And thanks for the updates.
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