Capacity - 3.8 quarts
Weight - 5W30 or 10W30 depending on climate
Filter - OEM Mazda, Bosch, and Mobil1 have good filtration, and have antidrainback valves which are pertinent for the valvetrain during cold startups.
Dino or Synthetic - Synthetic is the general consensus for what's best on our cars, but because of the detergents and cleaning ability of synthetic, some people experience leaks afterwards because worn out seals that were clogged are now cleaned. However, most people that switch to synthetics don't report problems.
Read more here:
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1700965625
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701006437
Oil Additives - Such as Lucas: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1700963902
Oil Additives w/Teflon - Additives w/Teflon (Slick50, etc) or teflon substitutes work well in the beginning, but eventually trash bearings and clog oil passages. Teflon is a solid.
Oil flush - Kerosene flush: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=4052
Low Oil Pressure - Can be caused by a few things:
*Oil - oil could be low, old, or the incorrect viscosity. Either top it off or do an oil change. (filter included)
*Gauge - Needle could be sticking if you have aftermarket gauge faces installed. Trim the gauge needle holes so that the needle base moves freely.
*OPSU - Oil Pressure Sending Unit. Sending unit could be bad, or the electrical connector could need to be cleaned.
*Oil Pump - TSB from '98 available on 2.0L oil pumps; air gets pumped into system instead of oil, causing valvetrain starvation. Part #F72Z-6600-AA available from Ford to correct the problem.
Weight - 5W30 or 10W30 depending on climate
Filter - OEM Mazda, Bosch, and Mobil1 have good filtration, and have antidrainback valves which are pertinent for the valvetrain during cold startups.
Dino or Synthetic - Synthetic is the general consensus for what's best on our cars, but because of the detergents and cleaning ability of synthetic, some people experience leaks afterwards because worn out seals that were clogged are now cleaned. However, most people that switch to synthetics don't report problems.
Read more here:
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1700965625
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701006437
Oil Additives - Such as Lucas: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1700963902
Oil Additives w/Teflon - Additives w/Teflon (Slick50, etc) or teflon substitutes work well in the beginning, but eventually trash bearings and clog oil passages. Teflon is a solid.
Oil flush - Kerosene flush: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=4052
Low Oil Pressure - Can be caused by a few things:
*Oil - oil could be low, old, or the incorrect viscosity. Either top it off or do an oil change. (filter included)
*Gauge - Needle could be sticking if you have aftermarket gauge faces installed. Trim the gauge needle holes so that the needle base moves freely.
*OPSU - Oil Pressure Sending Unit. Sending unit could be bad, or the electrical connector could need to be cleaned.
*Oil Pump - TSB from '98 available on 2.0L oil pumps; air gets pumped into system instead of oil, causing valvetrain starvation. Part #F72Z-6600-AA available from Ford to correct the problem.