Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Oxygen Sensor Replacement (R) Pictures :) ....with how-to's

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Oxygen Sensor Replacement (R) Pictures :) ....with how-to's

    Replaced the rear oxygen sensor and thought I'd post pictures with instructions.

    DIAGNOSIS (OBD-I Vehicles 1993-1995)

    The Check Engine light was coming on and after jumping the TEN & GND pins, it was reporting Code 23 & 24......

    23 RHO2S inactivation error
    24 RHO2S inversion error

    REMOVAL

    The "right" oxygen sensor is located behind the engine about 4-5" below the exhaust manifold. It's a 4 wire sensor that points towards the passenger side of the car. Access to it is partially blocked by the frame crossmember (the beam on the left with the 3 holes).It looks like this....

    Rear Oxygen Sensor (26KB)

    To make this job quick and easy, remove the 6 crossmember bolts and remove the crossmember. They are quite short and have a 17mm head. Once you have it removed, I suggest using a crow-foot wrench to unbolt the sensor. The 7/8" wrench fit best. All the crossmember, bolts, suggested wrench and new sensor look like this.....

    Parts and Tool(35KB)

    The easiest access to the oxygen sensor is right through the middle of the pipes with the angled wrench head pointing left. It's a great fit and allows about 5" to turn it or hammer on it if necessary. Looks like this......

    Best Wrench Angle(22KB)

    The connector has a lever on the engine harness side of the connector that you push in while pulling the connector apart.

    REPLACEMENT

    Make sure to apply anti-seize compound to the threads before install. Some sensors come with it pre-applied. My replacement sensor came with a tiny tube of gold compound. Looks like this....

    Applying Anti-Seize (27KB)

    Screw it in before plugging the connector in. It's suggested to tighten to 35 ft/lbs. The sensor has a crush washer as a seal, so make sure to tighten it good and snug.

    After you plug it in, reinstall the crossmember with it's six bolts. I'd suggest using Anti-Seize on these as well for future removal. Torque these bolts to 69-90 ft/lbs.

    Finished product looks like this.....

    New Sensor Installed (26KB)

    A few other tools I used but are not necessary are an impact wrench and 1/2" torque wrench. I wouldn't shy away from removing the crossmember if you just have hand tools though. The bolts are short and come out rather easy on my 7 year old PGT. A 1/2" breaker bar should work fine. This is what I used....

    Optional Tools (30KB)

    Expect the whole job to take under 30 minutes after the car is jacked up. I'd say 15 minutes with an air wrench.

    There you go

    NOTE: Front oxygen sensor is very similar but much easier. Just remove the plastic "s" shaped air intake behind/above the radiator to gain access to it and the connector.

    Codes associated with the "Left" sensor are as follows....

    15 LHO2S inactivation error
    17 LHO2S inversion error

    :grin:





    1995 PGT F/S.... car listed in forums...

  • #2
    I can only add that I found it easier with 2 12" extensions on the O2 sensor socket and just stick the socket and extensions through the holes in the stock rims. Just grip the sensor and turn! Worked a whole lot easier than taking the tire off or reaching down in there. (Mine had been baked on for 140K and I couldn't get enough leverage on the wrench from either the engine bay or under the car.)


    BTW, this wouldn't require removing the cross-member.
    Back in PGT action. Neet '94GT ATX parts? PM me!

    Comment


    • #3
      I didn't remove the cross member but went from below

      Still, you have picture documentation, so you're the man
      -Chris C.
      Cadillac ATS 3.6L AWD

      Comment


      • #4
        it can be done without removing the crossmember, but you wont be able to turn the wrench much at all with each turn compared to taking the crossmember off. I've done it both ways, it's probably easier to take it off overall.
        1993 Ford Probe GT - KLDE + N2O
        228 whp 241 wtq - 2340 lb race weight
        ATX - 13.44@105.1 MTX - 13.35@106.1

        Comment


        • #5
          But if you take the right-side wheel off, isn't the O2 sensor right there? Wouldn't that be the easiest way?

          I've never done it so... I don't know.

          Leska is the shitz! <-- Two thumbs up.
          94 PGT MTX/Borla Cat-back/Kumho 712s/PIAA 1400XP/PRM CAI/Remote starter/RR-Racing Motor Mount Inserts

          http://sirk.sytes.net

          Comment


          • #6
            I took the right wheel off and used an extension with an O2 sensor removal socket. It went smooth. If I don't have to crawl under that car I won't
            95 PGT MX

            Comment


            • #7
              Are there any reasons to purchase the more expensive Bosch 02 sensors over the sensors sold at oxygensensors.com. Also, what are the differences between the Bosch 13287, 13368, 15708 sensors. Do both sensors take the same part?
              Bill's '95 PGT died 11/21/03
              Don't drink and drive

              Comment


              • #8
                15708 4 wire
                15709 3 wire

                The above have the right connectors already attached.

                Check wich sensors you need, 3 or 4 wire, front and back can differ.

                Don't know if the bosch parts are better or not. On the old pt board NGK's were preferred. (i.e. lasted longer; 22028 4 wire)

                Greetings,

                Emile
                Last edited by Emilek; December 29, 2001, 05:34 AM.
                Xedos 6 2.0 V6

                Comment


                • #9
                  Mine don't give me any codes, but they are 50,000 miles old and I'm wondering if they're having a negative affect on my fuel economy.....if one of the 2 sensors had the most affect on fuel economy, which one of them would it be? And what is the typical price of the sensors?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well, if either were bad, they would give you codes. my front O2 didn't go bad till around 75,000miles. Even though the rear wasn't bad yet, I decided to replace it anyway.

                    Neither will have a bigger effect on performance or fuel economy over the other.


                    www.buyoxygensensors.com have OE sensors for $52.99 (price went up a few bucks) shipped, and in stock.
                    '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
                    '16 Chrysler 300S

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Rats96MX6
                      If the O2 sensors were bad, the CEL light would come on right? Just wondering. I don't know if mine have ever been replaced, I've had the car since 76k miles and it's now at 92k.
                      yes
                      "My lugnuts require more torque then your Honda makes."

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        How to know

                        Originally posted by Kyd Lynx
                        and where are these codes actully supposed to just pop up....not on the dash right?
                        i am assuming you guys are running some kind of diagnostics test with personal computers or going somewhere to show this.
                        let me know, thanks,
                        rami
                        The CEL light will come on. Usually it will come on here and there @ the begining, then as the O2 Sensor continues to fade, the light will come on more steady. Another way to tell is your fuel mileage will get much worse or better. The O2 sensor figures out the right air (o2) fuel mixture for the vehicle. My mileage got horrable and the more the light was on, the more you saw my car @ the pump.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm having my O2 sensors replaced for the first time after 100K miles but the shop has told me they're having a tough time with one of them. They say that there was a change mid-'93 & that mine (06/93) has a "hard to find" sensor. Any truth to this or is this just a story? The shop also recommends Bosch but says that only Ford has this one particular sensor I require. Any thoughts for a first time user?
                          '93 Probe GT, H4 Xenon headlight conversions, Xenon clear corners, Xenon driving lights, K&N filter, NGK plug wires, front strut bar, Yokohama AVS db, Eclipse CD player, Eclipse 6 CD changer, Alpine amps, Eclipse 6-1/2" point source speakers, Kicker Comp VR 6-1/2" mids, Boston Acoustics 10" subs, Brax 1 farad cap, Phoenix Gold & Lightning Audio wiring, Alpine proximity alarm with window roll up

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The only difference i can think of is the "3-wire sensor" instead of the "4-wire". I think Bosch 15708 is the 4 wire. 15709 is the 3-wire. Look at how many wires run into your O2 sensor on the front exhaust bank.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I Need Help!!!!!!!

                              I have just replaced my O2 sensors but the Check Engine Light is still on. How do I reset the Check Engine Computer? I tested all of the new sensors and they are all good and my car runs great, but I can't seem to get the light off. I Need Help!!!!!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X