As some of you know, a little over a month ago I replaced all of my vacuum lines with silicone hose form hosetechniques.com. Since the install, I have had what was once an intermittent EGR code (CEL) come on as soon as the engine warms up and stay on. Furthermore, my VRIS solenoids did not work which I found out from a quick paper test on the shutter valves.
I printed another vacuum diagram and dug into the problem today - sure that my woes were related to a screwed up hose connection. My initial check of all connections revealed I had hooked up everything right. Next, I pulled the vacuum hose from the source (vacuum chamber) and sucked on it to see if there was a vacuum leak between the tanks and the solenoids / EGR valve. They seemed to hold vacuum just fine. Next, I tried to pull a vacuum from the vacuum chambers. No such luck. BINGO. I installed the check valve before the vacuum chambers backwards. Yeah, real dumb. For all of those that replace the check valve when you replace the hoses and / or vacuum chambers as I did, make sure the directional arrow stamped on the valve points towards the nipple on the intake manifold.
Luckily, I was able to turn the valve in the right direction without removing the intake manifold. Don't ask me how, but I did. Several skin grafts later I may be o.k.
So far several miles of driving and NO EGR code or CEL for that matter have been set. Furthermore, it appears my VRIS system is working properly for the first time since I bought the car. The car feels like it might actually be able to take on an Escort GT for the first time ever. I'll do a paper test next to verify.
TEST PROCEDURES:
First, print yourself a vacuum diagram located on Julian Bradbury's excellent Probe/MX website:
http://www.bradbury.cwc.net/probemx/p_m9.htm
I'd blow it up a bit and print it to fit a 8 1/2 x 11 paper - it helps you track the vacuum lines a little better trust me.
Disclaimer: I can not guarantee that you won't break any plastic tee connections if you attempt the tests below with the original brittle rubber hose!!! - No big deal, they can be found at all major auto parts stores for around a dollar.
VACUUM CHAMBER / CHECK VALVE VACUUM TEST: Find vacuum line that connects metal nipple protruding from back of intake manifold (coming from vacuum chambers, under intake runner to the left of VRIS valve #2) and the first plastic two-way tee. Carefully disconnect this line at the two-way plastic tee. Now on the open end of the vacuum hose suck real hard - you should be able to pull a vacuum here if there is no leak in the check vavle or vacuum chambers mounted under the intake manifold. Next, blow into the same end of the vacuum hose to make sure the check valve is operating properly - you should be able to blow freely through the hose (this is the direction of vacuum pull while the engine is running). When properly installed, the green side of the check valve should be towards the intake manifold and the white side should be towards the vacuum chambers (the arrow stamped on the check valve should also point towards the intake manifold).
VRIS / EGR HOSE VACUUM TEST: Reconnect vacuum hose described above to the plastic two way tee. Next, disconnect the same hose from the opposite end (at the metal nipple) and suck real hard on that end of the hose. You should be able to pull a vacuum if there are no vacuum leaks in the VRIS / EGR hose routings. If you can suck freely, then you have a bad connection or a crack in one of the vacuum hoses. Follow the vacuum diagram you printed and perform this test while isolating specific parts of the hose routings to narrow down the area where you have the problem. Replacement silicone vacuum hose can be purchased by the foot at HoseTechniques ; you will need approximately 20 feet of 3.5mm hose to replace the stock EGR / VRIS system vacuum hoses.
TEST FOR VACUUM WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING: Disconnect hose listed in tests above at the metal nipple. Place your finger over the end of the metal nipple (at the back of the intake manifold just under the runner to the left of the #2 VRIS solenoid as you look at the car from the front). You should be able to feel vacuum when you put your finger over the nipple.
TEST FOR VACUUM AND SOLENOID / ACTUATOR FUNCTION: with ignition key in on position, unplug VRIS #1 solenoid. Actuator should now be closed. Plug #1 solenoid back in - actuator should immediately open. VRIS #1 should be open with engine on at idle. Without vacuum in the chambers, #1 actuator will not open. Next plug #1 solenoid harness into the #2 solenoid - #2 actuator should now immediately open as well.
If both solenoids open and close as I have described in the above tests with the key in the on position, you have proven
1. you have sealed vacuum in the VRIS / EGR system
2. you have good #1 and #2 solenoids and actuators, power in the #1 solenoid harness, and proper idle control of #1 VRIS solenoid.
However, you have not proven #1 or #2 solenoids function properly under WOT at specific RPM's. This can only be accomplished with a test light in circuit with the solenoid wiring harnesses or the much simpler paper test.
TEST FOR POWER TO SOLENOIDS: Turn ignition key to "on" position. Unplug harness to #1 VRIS solenoid. There should be a constant source of +12V in the RED power wire in each VRIS solenoid wiring harness with ignition "on". Test the red wire in each wiring harness for +12V with a mulitmeter to confirm.
I hope someone will add some version of this to a VRIS / EGR FAQ - I wish I had this months ago when all my problems started.
I printed another vacuum diagram and dug into the problem today - sure that my woes were related to a screwed up hose connection. My initial check of all connections revealed I had hooked up everything right. Next, I pulled the vacuum hose from the source (vacuum chamber) and sucked on it to see if there was a vacuum leak between the tanks and the solenoids / EGR valve. They seemed to hold vacuum just fine. Next, I tried to pull a vacuum from the vacuum chambers. No such luck. BINGO. I installed the check valve before the vacuum chambers backwards. Yeah, real dumb. For all of those that replace the check valve when you replace the hoses and / or vacuum chambers as I did, make sure the directional arrow stamped on the valve points towards the nipple on the intake manifold.
Luckily, I was able to turn the valve in the right direction without removing the intake manifold. Don't ask me how, but I did. Several skin grafts later I may be o.k.
So far several miles of driving and NO EGR code or CEL for that matter have been set. Furthermore, it appears my VRIS system is working properly for the first time since I bought the car. The car feels like it might actually be able to take on an Escort GT for the first time ever. I'll do a paper test next to verify.
TEST PROCEDURES:
First, print yourself a vacuum diagram located on Julian Bradbury's excellent Probe/MX website:
http://www.bradbury.cwc.net/probemx/p_m9.htm
I'd blow it up a bit and print it to fit a 8 1/2 x 11 paper - it helps you track the vacuum lines a little better trust me.
Disclaimer: I can not guarantee that you won't break any plastic tee connections if you attempt the tests below with the original brittle rubber hose!!! - No big deal, they can be found at all major auto parts stores for around a dollar.
VACUUM CHAMBER / CHECK VALVE VACUUM TEST: Find vacuum line that connects metal nipple protruding from back of intake manifold (coming from vacuum chambers, under intake runner to the left of VRIS valve #2) and the first plastic two-way tee. Carefully disconnect this line at the two-way plastic tee. Now on the open end of the vacuum hose suck real hard - you should be able to pull a vacuum here if there is no leak in the check vavle or vacuum chambers mounted under the intake manifold. Next, blow into the same end of the vacuum hose to make sure the check valve is operating properly - you should be able to blow freely through the hose (this is the direction of vacuum pull while the engine is running). When properly installed, the green side of the check valve should be towards the intake manifold and the white side should be towards the vacuum chambers (the arrow stamped on the check valve should also point towards the intake manifold).
VRIS / EGR HOSE VACUUM TEST: Reconnect vacuum hose described above to the plastic two way tee. Next, disconnect the same hose from the opposite end (at the metal nipple) and suck real hard on that end of the hose. You should be able to pull a vacuum if there are no vacuum leaks in the VRIS / EGR hose routings. If you can suck freely, then you have a bad connection or a crack in one of the vacuum hoses. Follow the vacuum diagram you printed and perform this test while isolating specific parts of the hose routings to narrow down the area where you have the problem. Replacement silicone vacuum hose can be purchased by the foot at HoseTechniques ; you will need approximately 20 feet of 3.5mm hose to replace the stock EGR / VRIS system vacuum hoses.
TEST FOR VACUUM WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING: Disconnect hose listed in tests above at the metal nipple. Place your finger over the end of the metal nipple (at the back of the intake manifold just under the runner to the left of the #2 VRIS solenoid as you look at the car from the front). You should be able to feel vacuum when you put your finger over the nipple.
TEST FOR VACUUM AND SOLENOID / ACTUATOR FUNCTION: with ignition key in on position, unplug VRIS #1 solenoid. Actuator should now be closed. Plug #1 solenoid back in - actuator should immediately open. VRIS #1 should be open with engine on at idle. Without vacuum in the chambers, #1 actuator will not open. Next plug #1 solenoid harness into the #2 solenoid - #2 actuator should now immediately open as well.
If both solenoids open and close as I have described in the above tests with the key in the on position, you have proven
1. you have sealed vacuum in the VRIS / EGR system
2. you have good #1 and #2 solenoids and actuators, power in the #1 solenoid harness, and proper idle control of #1 VRIS solenoid.
However, you have not proven #1 or #2 solenoids function properly under WOT at specific RPM's. This can only be accomplished with a test light in circuit with the solenoid wiring harnesses or the much simpler paper test.
TEST FOR POWER TO SOLENOIDS: Turn ignition key to "on" position. Unplug harness to #1 VRIS solenoid. There should be a constant source of +12V in the RED power wire in each VRIS solenoid wiring harness with ignition "on". Test the red wire in each wiring harness for +12V with a mulitmeter to confirm.
I hope someone will add some version of this to a VRIS / EGR FAQ - I wish I had this months ago when all my problems started.
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