4th time installing this on a different engine, I decided to take some pics and give a quick run-through of the install. Mainly since the search has been funky, making it harder to find Jamie's write-up.
First, raise the vehicle up, and support it with jack stands. Next, remove the passenger front wheel. If you still have your splash guards on [which I don't] remove the passenger side guard. Here’s what will be greeting you
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep3.jpg
Now it's time to remove the belts (I didn't think to take pictures with them still on).
First loosen the 17mm nut on the pulley
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep1.jpg
Next relieve tension off of the belt by backing off the pulley, using the 10mm bolt
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep2.jpg
With the belt loose, they can now be removed super easily.
Repeat those steps on the lower tensioner.
Now it's time to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Back to this view
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep3.jpg
You'll need a 22mm socket for this task. I used my air gun on it, so I don't have pictures of how you may need to remove it by wedging a large flathead screwdriver between the flywheel teeth, to keep the crank from spinning, while you ratchet away. Others have broke the bolt loose by turning the engine over a time or two, while they had a breaker bar wedged against the ground.
My stock pulley came off by hand (thank you 30,000 mile engine), but you may need to use a harmonic balancer remover, to get yours off. These tools are readily available at most auto parts stores.
Once the crankshaft pulley is off, you'll be looking at this
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep4.jpg
Now then, with the pulley off, it's time to get out whatever tool you've decided to use to hack up the oil pump housing and timing belt cover.
I used my trusty Dremel with a cut-off disc. You will need to grind down/cut away the inner ridges surrounding the crankshaft sprocket. Be sure to cut away enough to not only clear the hall effect plate, but also to allow for expansion when the oil pump housing heats up. You may also want to remove the crankshaft position sensor [by removing it's one (1) 10mm bolt] to make sure you don't damage it.
After cutting/grinding, you should be left with something like this
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep5.jpg
Hard part is all done, now you just have to slide the UDP on the crankshaft, and bolt it down to 116-122 lbs/ft.
Once bolted down, install the new belts
The new belt sizes needed are
Water pump/power steering pump: Dayco 5040355
Altenator/AC compressor: Gates K050380
Or if you're cool like me
Altenator/no AC: Dayco 5050315 (Dayco recently changed their part numbers so the old 315k5 is no longer correct).
Any competent parts store clerk can cross reference these numbers to whatever brand they carry.
Now then, after sliding the belts on, go ahead and tighten down the tensioners' 10mm bolts until the right amount of tension is on the belts, then tighten down the 17mm nuts on the pulleys.
When all is said and done, you're left with this
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep6.jpg
Enjoy your UDP.
Same stuff from above in a .doc file:
http://home.comcast.net/~pgtfreak/UDP_install.doc
First, raise the vehicle up, and support it with jack stands. Next, remove the passenger front wheel. If you still have your splash guards on [which I don't] remove the passenger side guard. Here’s what will be greeting you
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep3.jpg
Now it's time to remove the belts (I didn't think to take pictures with them still on).
First loosen the 17mm nut on the pulley
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep1.jpg
Next relieve tension off of the belt by backing off the pulley, using the 10mm bolt
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep2.jpg
With the belt loose, they can now be removed super easily.
Repeat those steps on the lower tensioner.
Now it's time to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Back to this view
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep3.jpg
You'll need a 22mm socket for this task. I used my air gun on it, so I don't have pictures of how you may need to remove it by wedging a large flathead screwdriver between the flywheel teeth, to keep the crank from spinning, while you ratchet away. Others have broke the bolt loose by turning the engine over a time or two, while they had a breaker bar wedged against the ground.
My stock pulley came off by hand (thank you 30,000 mile engine), but you may need to use a harmonic balancer remover, to get yours off. These tools are readily available at most auto parts stores.
Once the crankshaft pulley is off, you'll be looking at this
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep4.jpg
Now then, with the pulley off, it's time to get out whatever tool you've decided to use to hack up the oil pump housing and timing belt cover.
I used my trusty Dremel with a cut-off disc. You will need to grind down/cut away the inner ridges surrounding the crankshaft sprocket. Be sure to cut away enough to not only clear the hall effect plate, but also to allow for expansion when the oil pump housing heats up. You may also want to remove the crankshaft position sensor [by removing it's one (1) 10mm bolt] to make sure you don't damage it.
After cutting/grinding, you should be left with something like this
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep5.jpg
Hard part is all done, now you just have to slide the UDP on the crankshaft, and bolt it down to 116-122 lbs/ft.
Once bolted down, install the new belts
The new belt sizes needed are
Water pump/power steering pump: Dayco 5040355
Altenator/AC compressor: Gates K050380
Or if you're cool like me
Altenator/no AC: Dayco 5050315 (Dayco recently changed their part numbers so the old 315k5 is no longer correct).
Any competent parts store clerk can cross reference these numbers to whatever brand they carry.
Now then, after sliding the belts on, go ahead and tighten down the tensioners' 10mm bolts until the right amount of tension is on the belts, then tighten down the 17mm nuts on the pulleys.
When all is said and done, you're left with this
http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep6.jpg
Enjoy your UDP.
Same stuff from above in a .doc file:
http://home.comcast.net/~pgtfreak/UDP_install.doc
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