1994 Ford probe gt build thread

[Stanced4lyfe]

I had to do the same thing in my threads, but you may need to resize your pics. I believe the limit here is 800x600.

Yeah it sucked! Took hours lol and do I? I thought they were ok because I believe that was the same size of the pictures before.

[proboner]

Had to go through my whole thread and fix all my pictures because photobucket is on somee bulllssssshhhhh*********tttttt.

Anyways all fixed now and an update. No pictures yet but I sold my coilover set up and decided to go air ride. I also bought my intercooler setup.

Still tossing around ideas for the car and I'm getting into the parts that cost $$$$$$$$$$$ so I'll be saving Alot more to buy those.

Lets hear these ideas... I'm sure there are members on here that have been down the road already that can offer some perspective.

One comment I'd make, considering what I've seen so far, is that you probably don't need new cams. If you're going turbo, you can surely turn the boost up far enough to break your engine and trans before needing more appropriate cams will become an issue.

[P1P]

I need to teach people how to build a car

I've seen so many builds on here and dont get me wrong some do turn out to be great builds in the end and some become part outs

but the set by step to get the end results to me should be done a little differently

If anyone care for me to explain just ask

[Stanced4lyfe]

Lets hear these ideas... I'm sure there are members on here that have been down the road already that can offer some perspective.

One comment I'd make, considering what I've seen so far, is that you probably don't need new cams. If you're going turbo, you can surely turn the boost up far enough to break your engine and trans before needing more appropriate cams will become an issue.

I do have alot of unanswered questions.

1. How do I go about making my 96 pgt engine work in my 94 pgt?

2. What size fpr kit should I get? I got an aeromotive fpr kit 3/8" saved but didn't know if this was the right size.

3. The best place to mount my gauges other than the traditional pillar pod.

4. How to run my intercooler piping. I got the mishimoto m line and I can see where the one side of piping is getting ran but where does the other side go?

I'm running this cam because this is sort of a high hp build. Plus I love a good sounding cam especially the lobe.

I need to teach people how to build a car

I've seen so many builds on here and dont get me wrong some do turn out to be great builds in the end and some become part outs

but the set by step to get the end results to me should be done a little differently

If anyone care for me to explain just ask

I'm always down for good advice. Enlighten me. I'm very serious about this build though. It's not going anywhere.

I'm taking my time researching and buying the right parts. I want this done right the first time.

[P1P]

1) well first thing you should do before you buy the first part is set a budget
2) then add another $2500 to $5,000 to that for misc


3) When buying parts think about what you really need first for your build, I say this cause i see so many just buying random parts here and there engine part here suspension part there wheels here and there


lets say you want to turbo your probe for example

what would be you first purchase? most guys on here would run straight out and buy a turbo kit but in my opinion the turbo kit doesn't do you any good sitting in the box waiting for you to buy other things that you really need first

my first purchase would be a ECU (heart and soul of every build) and here's my reason

Install the ECU on the car while the car is still N/A it's alot easier to deal with for a first timer

drive the car for a while learn about the ecu as much as you can

think about it you would rather destroy a stock motor than kill a built one

next work on ignition and fuel since you already have the ECU you can still upgrade these things while N/A


my point is I would do what I needed most first while the car is N/A


my other point is sometimes people try to build a car too fast and throw a bunch of stuff all together at one time then have a bunch of problems but don't know which direction to go next to fix the problems

or they buy a bunch of random parts with no clear direction then figure out they shoulda bought this and maybe not have bought this

I've seen many builds go this way guy has thousand of dollar in parts and end up parting it out all it take is one financial bad day lost of job get sick


I can't just give you a step by step how to build your car I could but this post would be so long that people would think it was my build lol

my advice is stay in a general area work on the car in sections spend the money in a section at a time have a clear goal with a end result

write all your ideals on paper first

then go thru that list 2 or three time to make sure its where you want to go before you buy parts and when you buy parts buy them in the order you need them so you don't have parts just sitting collecting dust


and if you really want to go turbo turbo the stock motor first while you have another motor being built later

learn how the car acts and reacts going from N/A to boost work the issue out because there will be some so when you decide to put a built motor in most of your problem should be out the way already




Question for you have you decided what kinda fuel you gonna run (pump, race or E85) I ask cause it makes a difference in some cases on the ECU of choice

Im gonna run E85 so I'm gonna either get a Pro EFI or a AEM and use GM flex fuel sensor that automatically change the tune on the car depending on the quality of E85 at the pump. just cause the pump says E85 doesnt mean its E85 but with the flex sensor it detects that


hope this gives you a little insight

don't think that i'm am knocking what you doing or how you spending your money. you have the right to do what you want how you want cause at the end of the day it's your car and if you happy with it thats all that matters

any more questions feel free to ask

[proboner]

I do have alot of unanswered questions.

1. How do I go about making my 96 pgt engine work in my 94 pgt?

2. What size fpr kit should I get? I got an aeromotive fpr kit 3/8" saved but didn't know if this was the right size.

3. The best place to mount my gauges other than the traditional pillar pod.

1) 96pgt motor into a 94 shouldn't be a big issue stock to stock. But I imagine you'll be going with some sort of aftermarket fuel/ignition management. A lot of it will depend on that. Are you going to stay stock disty, wasted spark, COP? Each has a difference requirement for sensors and can change what you need and don't need.

2) Depends on the power you want to make and what kind of lines you're using. 3/8" rubber stock hose will get you up into decent power levels. Research on that shouldn't be too hard. You'll be find with what you have saved.

3) How many gauges? What are you wanting read-outs for? I'm currently running a 7" ZenPad in place of my stock stereo/heater vents that has pretty much every gauge you could want. You've also got the center console cubby that can hold 2 gauges, and the gauge cluster itself can be replaced.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd have paid a lot more attention up front to what my goals for the car are, and trying to make sure the cost will be worth it in the end.

[P1P]

If I had to do it all over again, I'd have paid a lot more attention up front to what my goals for the car are, and trying to make sure the cost will be worth it in the end.

I think we all been down this road before

[plx92]

1) well first thing you should do before you buy the first part is set a budget
2) then add another $2500 to $5,000 to that for misc


3) When buying parts think about what you really need first for your build, I say this cause i see so many just buying random parts here and there engine part here suspension part there wheels here and there


lets say you want to turbo your probe for example

what would be you first purchase? most guys on here would run straight out and buy a turbo kit but in my opinion the turbo kit doesn't do you any good sitting in the box waiting for you to buy other things that you really need first

my first purchase would be a ECU (heart and soul of every build) and here's my reason

Install the ECU on the car while the car is still N/A it's alot easier to deal with for a first timer

drive the car for a while learn about the ecu as much as you can

think about it you would rather destroy a stock motor than kill a built one

next work on ignition and fuel since you already have the ECU you can still upgrade these things while N/A


my point is I would do what I needed most first while the car is N/A


my other point is sometimes people try to build a car too fast and throw a bunch of stuff all together at one time then have a bunch of problems but don't know which direction to go next to fix the problems

or they buy a bunch of random parts with no clear direction then figure out they shoulda bought this and maybe not have bought this

I've seen many builds go this way guy has thousand of dollar in parts and end up parting it out all it take is one financial bad day lost of job get sick


I can't just give you a step by step how to build your car I could but this post would be so long that people would think it was my build lol

my advice is stay in a general area work on the car in sections spend the money in a section at a time have a clear goal with a end result

write all your ideals on paper first

then go thru that list 2 or three time to make sure its where you want to go before you buy parts and when you buy parts buy them in the order you need them so you don't have parts just sitting collecting dust


and if you really want to go turbo turbo the stock motor first while you have another motor being built later

learn how the car acts and reacts going from N/A to boost work the issue out because there will be some so when you decide to put a built motor in most of your problem should be out the way already




Question for you have you decided what kinda fuel you gonna run (pump, race or E85) I ask cause it makes a difference in some cases on the ECU of choice

Im gonna run E85 so I'm gonna either get a Pro EFI or a AEM and use GM flex fuel sensor that automatically change the tune on the car depending on the quality of E85 at the pump. just cause the pump says E85 doesnt mean its E85 but with the flex sensor it detects that


hope this gives you a little insight

don't think that i'm am knocking what you doing or how you spending your money. you have the right to do what you want how you want cause at the end of the day it's your car and if you happy with it thats all that matters

any more questions feel free to ask

Great post, we've all been guilty of building without clear direction or proper planning at one time or another.

[P1P]

oh and I forget to put this in in my last post

how to decide on a ECU? most people here would say go MS3 because its affordable and alot of people on here have used it

but that is not necessary the reason you should go with it (first monkey jumps off cliff doesnt mean the 2nd monkey should follow)

when you pick a ECU you should first go talk to your tuner. The man or woman that tunes your car should be the person that helps you decide your ecu of choice. If your tuner only deals with Haltech then a Haltech ECU might be best for you, if your tuner only experienced with AEM then AEM might be right for you and so and so on.

Tuners like to deal with products the are most familiar with so when problems occur they can easily figure out what the problem is or they know little tricks here in there to help you along the way to help you if you have problems with your car when you not at the shop that probably can help you thru talking on the phone cause they know the product

Don't buy parts cause the masses did it buy parts for realistic reasons. Do research on parts before you buy them talk to your installer before hand about the parts

cause works for someone else's Probe, might not work for you.

[Stanced4lyfe]

1) well first thing you should do before you buy the first part is set a budget
2) then add another $2500 to $5,000 to that for misc

3) When buying parts think about what you really need first for your build, I say this cause i see so many just buying random parts here and there engine part here suspension part there wheels here and there

lets say you want to turbo your probe for example

what would be you first purchase? most guys on here would run straight out and buy a turbo kit but in my opinion the turbo kit doesn't do you any good sitting in the box waiting for you to buy other things that you really need first

my first purchase would be a ECU (heart and soul of every build) and here's my reason

Install the ECU on the car while the car is still N/A it's alot easier to deal with for a first timer

drive the car for a while learn about the ecu as much as you can

think about it you would rather destroy a stock motor than kill a built one

next work on ignition and fuel since you already have the ECU you can still upgrade these things while N/A

my point is I would do what I needed most first while the car is N/A

my other point is sometimes people try to build a car too fast and throw a bunch of stuff all together at one time then have a bunch of problems but don't know which direction to go next to fix the problems

or they buy a bunch of random parts with no clear direction then figure out they shoulda bought this and maybe not have bought this

I've seen many builds go this way guy has thousand of dollar in parts and end up parting it out all it take is one financial bad day lost of job get sick

I can't just give you a step by step how to build your car I could but this post would be so long that people would think it was my build lol

my advice is stay in a general area work on the car in sections spend the money in a section at a time have a clear goal with a end result

write all your ideals on paper first

then go thru that list 2 or three time to make sure its where you want to go before you buy parts and when you buy parts buy them in the order you need them so you don't have parts just sitting collecting dust

and if you really want to go turbo turbo the stock motor first while you have another motor being built later

learn how the car acts and reacts going from N/A to boost work the issue out because there will be some so when you decide to put a built motor in most of your problem should be out the way already

Question for you have you decided what kinda fuel you gonna run (pump, race or E85) I ask cause it makes a difference in some cases on the ECU of choice

Im gonna run E85 so I'm gonna either get a Pro EFI or a AEM and use GM flex fuel sensor that automatically change the tune on the car depending on the quality of E85 at the pump. just cause the pump says E85 doesnt mean its E85 but with the flex sensor it detects that


hope this gives you a little insight

don't think that i'm am knocking what you doing or how you spending your money. you have the right to do what you want how you want cause at the end of the day it's your car and if you happy with it thats all that matters

any more questions feel free to ask

That should be a sticky post! Seriously that was the best advice anybody could ask for.

My main thing is about this car is its my main project. It's no rush on it. I have two other cars that run perfectly fine while I take my time on this build and workout all the trails and errors with this car.

I was going with the megasquirt pnp that diyauto has out right now. I also thought about vaf to Maf and aem ecu.

I already have Mazda Rx7 primary injectors and a walbro 255 fuel pump. Plans on running 93 pump gas since that's the highest they offer in my area.

Cams will be here next pay after the regrind. Only thing left to do for the motor to be rebuilt is engine gasket set, new oem oil pump, Mazda 626 adjustable hlas and arp head studs. I have everything else. Can't forget my heads ported and Polished then the block hot tanked.

Turbo kit is done also. I have all the basics. Turbo, wastegate, Bov, manifold, intercooler and intercooler piping.

Suspension just needs two more big purchases one being air ride and that will be done.

Wheels will be a secret lol I know what I'm running already but I don't want to reveal it yet. Once I get my wheels then I'll measure for my fender flares.

1) 96pgt motor into a 94 shouldn't be a big issue stock to stock. But I imagine you'll be going with some sort of aftermarket fuel/ignition management. A lot of it will depend on that. Are you going to stay stock disty, wasted spark, COP? Each has a difference requirement for sensors and can change what you need and don't need.

2) Depends on the power you want to make and what kind of lines you're using. 3/8" rubber stock hose will get you up into decent power levels. Research on that shouldn't be too hard. You'll be find with what you have saved.

3) How many gauges? What are you wanting read-outs for? I'm currently running a 7" ZenPad in place of my stock stereo/heater vents that has pretty much every gauge you could want. You've also got the center console cubby that can hold 2 gauges, and the gauge cluster itself can be replaced.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd have paid a lot more attention up front to what my goals for the car are, and trying to make sure the cost will be worth it in the end.

1. Either megasquirt or vaf to Maf with aem fuel management. Wanted to keep the stock dizzy.

2. Yeah Ima just get the aeromotive 3/8" kit. Did my research and that should be good for my power goals.

3. Boost, air/fuel and oil temperature. I didn't know we had the room to do that. That means I can run up to 5 without a pillar pod. That's great.

I already know what my up front goals are it's just now having the money for the parts.

oh and I forget to put this in in my last post

how to decide on a ECU? most people here would say go MS3 because its affordable and alot of people on here have used it

but that is not necessary the reason you should go with it (first monkey jumps off cliff doesnt mean the 2nd monkey should follow)

when you pick a ECU you should first go talk to your tuner. The man or woman that tunes your car should be the person that helps you decide your ecu of choice. If your tuner only deals with Haltech then a Haltech ECU might be best for you, if your tuner only experienced with AEM then AEM might be right for you and so and so on.

Tuners like to deal with products the are most familiar with so when problems occur they can easily figure out what the problem is or they know little tricks here in there to help you along the way to help you if you have problems with your car when you not at the shop that probably can help you thru talking on the phone cause they know the product

Don't buy parts cause the masses did it buy parts for realistic reasons. Do research on parts before you buy them talk to your installer before hand about the parts

cause works for someone else's Probe, might not work for you.

OK so I will call around and ask about the best tuner around and talk to a few about ecu choices. I want this done right for the first time and k want to make sure I pick the right tuner.

[proboner]

Only thing left to do for the motor to be rebuilt is engine gasket set, new oem oil pump, Mazda 626 adjustable hlas and arp head studs. I have everything else.

Once I get my wheels then I'll measure for my fender flares.

I already know what my up front goals are it's just now having the money for the parts.

I think you mean 626 adjustable SLA's, in which case I actually have a set for sale if you're interested.

I also have a set of fender flares that I ended up deciding against, but that fit the PGT lines pretty well... let me know if you'd like to check those out as well.

I'm curious what your goals are. I actually came up with my goals list recently, despite building my car for years and years. My goals are to make over 200whp N/A, have the car weigh under 2300 lbs, and run in the 13's N/A.

[Stanced4lyfe]

I think you mean 626 adjustable SLA's, in which case I actually have a set for sale if you're interested.

I also have a set of fender flares that I ended up deciding against, but that fit the PGT lines pretty well... let me know if you'd like to check those out as well.

I'm curious what your goals are. I actually came up with my goals list recently, despite building my car for years and years. My goals are to make over 200whp N/A, have the car weigh under 2300 lbs, and run in the 13's N/A.

I'm definitely interested. How much? I need them to run my cams.

Once I get my wheels and measure everything out I'll definitely hit you up for the flares if they are the right size.

Goals honestly is to make a street warrior and look good doing it at the same time. That's why I've decided air instead of my coil setup. My lip kit and wheels will complement the air ride so lovely.

Wait till you see my diffuser set up with dual exit exhaust.

Engine setup is like Mac1 vitara piston and milly s rod combo. Gives you a hint in the area where I want my hp goals.

[proboner]

So this is pretty much what I assumed... in that you really don't have a goal. "Good looking street warrior" is an abstract idea. Millenia S rod/Vitara piston combo isn't a specific amount of power.

My suggestion is that you actually sit down and decide what you want out of this. What in your mind would make your car a good looking street warrior? Is it a specific wheel/tire size, is it a custom paint job, is it a specific ride height? How much power do you actually want, how often will you drive it, and how reliable do you need it to be? Why do you want that amount of power? Is it to outrun a certain car, or run a certain time at the track... or is it just bragging rights?

I'd suggest these are the things you need to get down on paper. Come to a conclusion of what would make you "happy" with this car, all said and done. Then come up with a basic estimate of what this is going cost, multiply that by 2x, and ask yourself, is it really worth that?

I dunno, maybe I'm bitter and old, but this is how I look at my own project now!

[P1P]

[QUOTE=Stanced4lyfe;1924194942

Think that would hold to my 450whp goals?[/QUOTE]



this is his posted goal (post #159)

[P1P]

so let's do some math 450whp in a front wheel drive car is roughly somewhere between 510 to 520 at the crank you figure you get a roughly 13 to 15 percent lost from crank to wheels to the ground by being front wheel drive

if it was rear wheel drive the percentage lost would be higher


also stance4lyf i think the turbo you have may be too big for your car that turbo if im not mistaken

came off a 6.5 liter diesel engine (you don't want a turbo that makes full boost after the quarter mile is over)