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  • The What should I look for thread

    I've seen three threads this week asking the exact same question, so I figured it's time that I made a thread addressing the issues that should be looked at when buying a used Ford Probe GT or Mazda MX6 LS

    I will start off with simple easy stuff to spot out, that you should look for on basically any car you buy.

    Exterior
    1.) Look for rust on the hatch. It likes to creep underneath it also, and come through the outside. you will either see bubbles or just plain rust. Also, if the car has a spoiler, look for rust there.
    2.) Look for rust on the moonroof (if equipped) This will be easy to spot out, and most Probe GT's have it by now, unless it was garage kept and kept dry. This is the easy sign to see if it REALLY was garage kept.
    3.) Shitty paint. Look for heavy oxidation on the roof, the hood, and the hatch. These are usually the worst spots, and will only get WORSE. The hood will also have chicken feet all over it, if the paint is really bad. It can be fixed by getting a paint job, so you'll have to end up spending money on that in the future. There really aren't any other rust prone spots on the car's exterior.
    4.) Door ding strips. Look to make sure the car still has them. And if it does, make sure it has ALL of them still. I've seen where a fender ding guard will be missing, but the other fender has one. As long as it's symmetrical on both sides, it should be good.
    5.) Other things to look for are missing fog lights, or badly scratched underside of the front bumper. Basically means the person was careless when parking.
    6.) Ground effects, make sure they are all there also. Fender, door, and the one that runs from the beginning of the door, to the rear wheel well. If those are gone, then he probably hit something.
    7.) Any other excessive abnormalities, i'd basically stay away from.

    Interior
    Basically, if it looks good on the inside, clean and such, then don't worry about it too much, unless the seats are all ripped up and cracked, then that sucks.
    Or just do it the HowLeTT way, and sit on a milk crate while you drive, and say MUTHA **** interior.
    1996 Boysenberry Probe GT MTXtreme
    2014 Fusion SE MTXtreme
    2005 Mountaineer Premier

  • #2
    Engine (now it's getting good)

    If you actually get to the point of starting the car up, there are a few things to look out for.

    1.) HLA tap. This is the sound of the engine's valvetrain. It's very common with this car, but not ALL have it. I've heard some quiet ass 120,000 mile engines, and then there are some TAPPY 120,000 mile engines. Both will run perfectly fine, just one is a "cleaner" engine overall most likely. That would be the quiet engine.
    Another tapping could come from either the timing belt tensioner arm or friction gear. Do a search, and you will find out all about it. Basically, it will sound like a tapping noise with sort of a scratching sound to it. It's VERY annoying, and the loose timing belt tensioner arm isn't the best thing to have, because your belt could jump notches on the cams, or the loose belt could cause timing to be slightly off, and give you a rough idle, or not let you rev to the redline.

    2.) Engine codes. A lot of times people will sell the car with bad o2 sensors. The code won't come on unless you drive for like 20 minutes, so you most likely won't get to see it while running the car at idle, or even on a quick test drive. If you have the guts, you could always CHECK the engine's stored codes. The previous owner (if not a Probetalker) will find you very weird, but hey, you are making a few thousand dollar purchase here, so tell them to screw off if they tell you not to do it. If you don't know how to do this... check this thread http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...did=1701015446

    3.) In the engine bay, just look around for any wires that are electrical tapes, or anything out of the ordinary, that could have possibly be rigged. look for rips in the throttle body elbow, ask how often the air filter was changed, and fuel filter alike.

    4.) Then there's the oil pressure gauge, don't worry too much about that, do a search on "low oil pressure" or "oil pressure gauge" and you will find that it's a common problem for the gauge to be inaccurate.

    5.) Idle.... the idle after a few minutes of idling should be right around 650-800 rpm. Rev the engine up if you can and make sure that it drops down to around there.

    6.) Oil in spark plug wells. This is another VERY COMMON problem with the 2.5L V6. To check to see if the valve cover gaskets will need to be changed. just lift up on the spark plug wires, and look for oil covering the boot, or down on the spark plug itself. This could be a problem, because it could eventually ruin spark plugs or spark plug wires. It's not a major problem and can be fixed by 30 dollar valve cover gaskets from the Ford or Mazda dealer. This thread might help you out... http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...did=1700975049 Show's how to

    7.) VRIS functionality. Taken from http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...threadid=42800
    TEST FOR VACUUM AND SOLENOID / ACTUATOR FUNCTION: with ignition key in on position, unplug VRIS #1 solenoid. Actuator should now be closed. Plug #1 solenoid back in - actuator should immediately open. VRIS #1 should be open with engine on at idle. Without vacuum in the chambers, #1 actuator will not open. Next plug #1 solenoid harness into the #2 solenoid - #2 actuator should now immediately open as well
    there's a quick way to check for VRIS functionality.
    Last edited by spada; October 20, 2004, 04:40 PM.
    1996 Boysenberry Probe GT MTXtreme
    2014 Fusion SE MTXtreme
    2005 Mountaineer Premier

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    • #3
      Suspension

      Here's a few things you can check while on your hands and knees (hopefully none of you are familiar with this position)

      1.) CV Joint Boots. This is a very common problem, and I cannot explain why all of the boots rip so often. They will usually rip around 120,000 miles, and will spray grease all around the wheel, and wheel well. It's easy to spot out when looking under the car also, because the boot will be ripped. Each of these are around 70 bucks an axle to replace, so there's some money you can deduct from the asking price.

      2.) Broken rear endlinks. These are very easy to spot. just go down and look at the rear sway bar. you will see that it is detached at one or both ends if the endlinks have snapped. These go for like 60 bucks each at the Ford dealer, but 19 dollars at the Nissan Dealer. 1995 Altima endlinks. Check this thread. (thanks Ken) http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...light=endlinks

      Did I mention in this thread yet, that the SEARCH FUNCTION WORKS!!!!

      3.) Worn brakes. This can't be seen to easily, but if the rotors are really worn down and look like ass, then you will probably have to replace the pads and rotors. I'd subtract like 200 bucks right there. A common problem is that the rear calipers will either lock up, or the parking brake will not retract, and the brake will always have some pressure on it, so the brakes will wear down very quickly. Reman'ed calipes are like 70 bucks IIRC

      4.) Worn struts. There is an easy way to check it out. Just push down on the hatch and let it rebound up. If it seems like it's taking more than a second to jump back up to the original position, then the struts have basically gone bad, and have no more pressure in them. the ride will be bouncy on the expressway also, because you are basically just riding on the springs. A good strut will rebound quickly and it will stabilize the car quickly. If these are worn, subtract about 60 or 70 bucks for stock replacements. While you are checking out the struts, just take a look at the springs, make sure they are not severly rusted and ready to snap on you. It has happened to a few members on here. (it's not good for that to happen)

      There are many other things to check on the suspension, but you would have to have the car up on jacks to check them out, so I will not put them in this thread.

      Transmission

      Well there's not much you can do here but to drive the car and find out how it does. It should be almost effortless to put the car in 1st gear from a stop. Make sure all gears engage properly while driving, and that none of the gears grind when you are shifting (make sure you put the clutch to the floor when shifting)
      The clutch itself should grap nicely and let you accelerate in 1st gear easily. If you ar hitting the gas in gear and the revs are going up without the car accelerating, then the clutch has a problem and is slipping badly. That will need replacing. I'd subtract like 500 bucks from the car if the clutch is slipping, and he doesn't mention it.
      I'm not ATX guy, but if the car shudders or hesitates when going into gear (usually 3rd or 4th for the ATX'ers i think) then the transmission probably isn't getting good line pressure. Valve body problem most likely, that will need to be replaced. ATX'ers help me out here, I am just taking what I read in the Ford Manual. Please reply to the thread with input on what else to look for on the ATX

      I don't know what else to add in this thread. I'm sure if I missed anything, it will be mentioned.




      search keys...

      common problems
      buying a used probe
      what should i look for
      Last edited by spada; October 20, 2004, 04:41 PM.
      1996 Boysenberry Probe GT MTXtreme
      2014 Fusion SE MTXtreme
      2005 Mountaineer Premier

      Comment


      • #4
        spada you rule, i am hammering b eers and peeing like a racehorse. cya lata dawg! mgd foo
        98 Z3
        2000 F150

        Comment


        • #5
          You know that all the n00bs out there don't even look before they make a post. You could make this a sticky, make it in a font that fills the whole screen and flashes, and they will still go straight for the New Topic button and type in the subject (Looking to buy a 93 Probe GTS...)

          But, good work anyway. It was entertaining to read.
          Kevin B - Former Probe-owner
          06 Legacy GT
          98 Legacy GT

          Comment


          • #6
            I should print this out and keep it with me in case i forget to check any of the above while surfing dealers for a 2nd probe

            Good job man
            Rio Red 94PGT, Turbo T360trim,T3T4E 50 trim,T3T4E57 trim Parted out!
            1998 Volvo S70, The Brick
            1999 Red Volvo S70 T5 The Red Devil, modded
            1998 Black V70R AWD, The Waggo with mods

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            • #7
              Hey, great post. I'm not looking to buy a new car, but this will be helpful when checking out the GT that I just took out of storage. I'll be checking out all of the areas that you pointed out. Thanks.

              Comment


              • #8
                Bah! Sorry! I guess I'm a newbie

                I just made this same post. Well, that being answered, the other 2 questions I asked are still up for answering.

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                • #9
                  nice post ben!! you must have gotten the car-knowledge in the family, can I have some so maybe I can start posting in the big boys sections where you actually talk about cars!! then I wont have to post pics of myself to start a conversation
                  MAS
                  2001 Yellow Cougar zn
                  www.myspace.com/maryspada (my hairstylist page)

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                  • #10
                    that is a good reminder list to bring with when looking around.

                    Originally posted by spadasis
                    then I wont have to post pics of myself to start a conversation
                    and not that you need to, but feel free to post as many pics as you like.
                    '59 VW Bus - camper - lots of work - Mango green/Seagull Grey two tone
                    '05 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro 6-spd manual Ultrasport w/ mods - Arctic White / Black
                    '69 VW Bug - Grey/Black two tone-1641cc
                    '94 MX-6 ZE mtx w/ mods - TAZ 6 - sold / BAPOC
                    '01.5 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro w/ mods - sold

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                    • #11
                      I think its just matter of time and Maryann will become "BENJAMINA" ....that sounds retarded yet its so krazy...imagine a cute lil one stripping probes in middle of Myrtle, im dying to see something ....

                      Maryann welcome to .."the BENJA zonE"
                      ... i just killed Vin Diesel's part....my bad man.

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