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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Archive Quality Archived Posts and FAQs

 
 
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Old April 8th, 2004, 03:25 PM   #51
ya_whatever
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Just a heads up to guys in Canada or others that get the DR-400, mine is acting up already, same type j1mmy was having problems with. I get a pulse from the ecu, but no voltage between B and C on my coil terminals when it acts up so it's not feeding the coil. I think Autozone will ship to Canada, and the part is under $20 Canadian so no duty, tax, or brokerage fees if they ship though UPS, but it's something I'm gonna look into and grab a spare. I picked up the Accel module from summit (had a gift certificate so it was cheaper than another dr-400 here ), but I'll let you guys know how it's works.

ps. Joe you may or may not be old, but really I meant it respectfully Would you prefer sir?
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Old April 8th, 2004, 04:50 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty6
Okay putting back the together the distributor, it looks like the metal strap goes onto the middle connector of the 3 pin cable. lol but not sure. Isn't that the tach contact, shouldn't it go to the power connection, on the left?
This confused me too when I first hooked everything up. That three pin 'socket' that marries the coil terminals to the three pin harness plug is not a straight one for one feed through connector. The metal strap does go into the middle connector but comes out on the right side, not the middle.

Black/pink +12 goes in the left side pin of the plug and comes out the left side of the coil. One for one, in on the left, out on the left.
Yellow /blue tach goes in the center pin of the plug but comes out on the right side of the coil.
Yellow/green IGN gnd goes in the right side of the plug but comes out on the center side of the coil.
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Old April 16th, 2004, 11:00 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by espbasic
Just add info., I did the mod because of 1-failed ignitor/bad coil and a 2nd spare ignitor that would not rev pass 3800 RPM. My finding was my rev prob was not due to the HEI module nor the Blaster coil setup, it was due to a bad cam position sensor portion of my spare ignitor.

I have 2 questions now I trying to find out:

1. When using the HEI mod & coil setup with the 3-pin connector completely disconnected form disty is it necessary to remove the internal ignitor to coil strap? Will not removing it affect performance? (Reduce spark strength?)

2. With the disty cap mod some pics show the tower closer to the edge and some show it drilled closer to the center button. The closer is appx 1 ohm (terminal to center button) where-as the edge mount location is giving me 6-ohm. Which is recommended?
Thx
You dont need to remove the strap with the connector off. I put the tower just off the middle, I didnt actually check the resistance just ran a light bulb with it. (I either need CIA or relocate it on my next disty cap the stock airbox gets in the way). One thing that was giving me grief when I first put the coil on and got no spark, I had to break off the piece that runs down to the stock coil and put some JB weld on it. I think it was shorting out somewhere in my bad coil in there somewhere.
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Old April 16th, 2004, 11:25 AM   #54
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You can get http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=MSD%2D8403 it comes with 1 tower seeing you'll need a coil wire anyways.

I think with the 96 you could probably just disconnected all 3 pins on the ignitor, cause with the 93/94's we remove 2 of them one being the ecu trigger the transistors base, the collector being the strap we removed, that just leaves a ground to the it that isnt needed anymore with the collector being removed. Or get out an ohm meter and connect it to the - ig pin it's the second one on the larger connector twords the 3pin one on 93/94 dont know if it's the same and it should be close to 0 ohms and leave that one, or find the one that goes to the coil and the one that goes to the ecu trigger.
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Old April 22nd, 2004, 09:09 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omaha95PGT
Here's the external tower wiring diagram: http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/Probe-Ext-HEI-Coil.gif

Diagram courtesy of Joe Bialy
Up there that diagram shows how it's hooked up, it's very simple and you just leave the 3 wire connector off the disty.

The easy thing to do for you cap is go up in this thread and click on probesports site he's got modified caps if you dont want to make one youself.

In the middle of this thread there are some pictures that show the cap mod. Just one word of warning if you have a stock air box check on where to put the tower first, I was fortunate enough to do a test cap first so no loss and have a broken airbox around. My next cap Im going to try to bring it off the side
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...light=msd+coil

You need a coil wire and a tower these msd ones come with a tower
http://store.summitracing.com/produc...earchtype=ecat
Or you can get a bunch of them
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=MSD%2D8805
I think you can call msd and request a free one.

Last edited by ya_whatever; April 22nd, 2004 at 09:10 PM.
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Old April 23rd, 2004, 12:49 PM   #56
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Alright I just read through all the posts and I happen to have an extra '96 Distributor so I thought I would take some pictures and see if I could help out at all. I got my ohm meter out and found there there is continuity between the red arrows...now I don't know if this is what you all were wanting to know, but if not tell me for sure what you need to know on the '96 disty and I'll check it out.

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/mafansle...stributor1.jpg
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/mafansle...stributor2.jpg

There was no continuity between the other 2 terminals with any of the terminals on the 3 pin connector
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Old April 23rd, 2004, 05:05 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattfan
Alright I just read through all the posts and I happen to have an extra '96 Distributor so I thought I would take some pictures and see if I could help out at all. I got my ohm meter out and found there there is continuity between the red arrows...now I don't know if this is what you all were wanting to know, but if not tell me for sure what you need to know on the '96 disty and I'll check it out.

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/mafansle...stributor1.jpg
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/mafansle...stributor2.jpg

There was no continuity between the other 2 terminals with any of the terminals on the 3 pin connector

I belive thats the one you'd want to disconnect, The other two terminals should be the ignition pulse and ignition ground on the large connecter, the first 2 near the 3 pin connector. You can also disconnect all 3 I chiseled out the old ignitor in my 93 and it works fine with the hei as it's only the ignition ground that we've left hooked up.

Last edited by ya_whatever; April 23rd, 2004 at 05:07 PM.
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Old April 27th, 2004, 11:58 AM   #58
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One last thing. If I use the Blaster coil, do I need to worry about a condenser? If so, where does it need to be wired.
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Old April 27th, 2004, 01:45 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noob95
One last thing. If I use the Blaster coil, do I need to worry about a condenser? If so, where does it need to be wired.
If I had a '95, that's exactly how I'd do it. It gets real easy with an external coil. You prolly don't need a cap, but if you did, it would go from HEI's pin "B" to ground to keep some of the spikes off the 12 volt system.
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Old May 3rd, 2004, 02:34 PM   #60
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I did the ignitor module thingy and..
the unit is getting pretty hot is that normal.? I think A fan will solve this
but I mounted it on a big plate from aluminium and still getting hot (I burned my finger) is this normal or should I get a fan ?
engine is running fine for the 20min test ride
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Old May 3rd, 2004, 03:06 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rammstein
I did the ignitor module thingy and..
the unit is getting pretty hot is that normal.? I think A fan will solve this
but I mounted it on a big plate from aluminium and still getting hot (I burned my finger) is this normal or should I get a fan ?
engine is running fine for the 20min test ride
I was think about using a 12V computer case fan on mine also it get pretty warm, just taping it off somewhere like the b (+12V) terminal so it ran with the car and I didnt have to think about turning it on via a switch. The cooler the better, but mine has held up so far though.
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Old May 4th, 2004, 09:24 AM   #62
Joe Bialy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rammstein
I did the ignitor module thingy and..
the unit is getting pretty hot is that normal.? I think A fan will solve this
but I mounted it on a big plate from aluminium and still getting hot (I burned my finger) is this normal or should I get a fan ?
engine is running fine for the 20min test ride
Did you put any heatsink compound under the HEI module before you attached it to the aluminum plate? That will help conduct as much heat as possible to the plate. Be aware that heatsink compound is NOT the same as the dielectric grease used on plug wires.

If you use an HEI specific coil, it will run hot.
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Old May 11th, 2004, 08:24 PM   #63
Joe Bialy
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The HEI module wants a really low resistance coil, like around 0.4 ohms or so. The coil on my Probe was around 1 ohm, so this is not a perfect match. No doubt a matched HEI coil and module would make a fatter spark.
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Old May 20th, 2004, 09:08 AM   #64
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Ok pride is on the shelf. I have read just about all 10 pages of posts and from the best that i can tell i have run accross something no 1 else has. I installed the HEI to no avail. Car wouldn't start. Checked for spark w/ a spark tester, and no spark. Then i got out my multimeter to check voltages as described. The B tower checked out just fine. The first time i checked the C tower it was fine. I then did the jumper cable from G to B. I was working on my own and wanted to make sure i could duplicate the proper result just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. I undid the jumper and wasn't getting a reading from the C tower. I Moved the multimeter prongs around a little and could momentarily get the 12 volt reading. Now I cant get the C tower to get and volt reading whatsoever no matter where the prongs are.

First i thought, well I just learned to sotter for this mod, maybe i did that wrong. I turned the multimeter to the OHM test and tested from the point where the metal prongs are inside the 3 pin distributor plug to the C tower and that was perfect. That eliminates a potential poor wire/sotter.

The inconsistancy with the mulitmeter reading is killing me. The only thing that i could think of would be the remains from the metal wiring harness that I removed from the inside of the disty. When i took that part out, I undid the screw and pulled it out. For a lack of a better description I pulled out the piece from some sort of spade connector holding it on closer to the 3 pin connector. It then goes further up into the 3 pin harness. I couldn't get it out from up that far. maybe it didn't try hard enought but i just cut it off w/ like 1/4 of an inch hanging down. I couldn't tell from the pics if that part was completely removed or not. Could that piece be my potential problem. I dont think it could because the main part where contact would be made is gone.

I guess this all would point to the coil having been my problem from the begining and not the ignitor. Unfortunately i couldn't have found this out untill after i did all this work and went through it all again and again to make sure i didnt' mess up. I dont have a problem putting a new coil in. If i could do the HEI mod, I could do the coil and it is still cheaper than a new disty. If any 1 could point out another possible point of error I would appreciate it. If u guys cant see anything else to do then i guess its on to the coil mod and ill continue w/ my frustration there.
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Old May 20th, 2004, 11:32 AM   #65
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Hi bigt50, I think you need that spade connector on there still with the internal coil just have to remove it behind, cause with the extenal coil that middle wire is still hooked up to the negative coil terminal for the tach. I really played around with my disty alot here for *****s and giggles, but you can take a crimp on type spade connector strip the insulation trim it up a bit and solder it to the proper terminal. Another thing to take note of when you put the interupter wheels back on is that the bump on the inner one is lined up with the hole on the outer, I had the inner one move on me the first time I tried to get it back together.
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Old May 20th, 2004, 07:18 PM   #66
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YaWhatever thx for the tip I went and got some more spades tonight. I will give that all a shot in the AM.

Lets say i put that back on everything is wired properly. Is a faulty coil the only possible problem with the inconsistent multimeter readings?

Also I know that this mod hasn't been around for that long, but are there any reliability issues with all of these wires and brackets stuffed all over the place? I think i have my dad willing to put up the $$ for a new disty from trussville mazda with the upgrade or whatever is different. Is this something worth my time and effort to do. I just want to have my car make it from FL to TN a couple times a year for school.

Thx in advance for all and any help.
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Old May 20th, 2004, 11:05 PM   #67
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I'd imagine they'd be fine. They've been keeping the older v-8 cars we're whoring them from running fine for decades.
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Old May 21st, 2004, 11:31 AM   #68
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BigT if your having problems with it after you get that spande connector back on. leave the strap to that connector off though.

Measure and let us know what you get.

1. between G and W you should get a pulse or some voltage, G is the ecu trigger, a cheap multimeter may not be able to read a good pulse so it may be around something like a constant ~2.5 Volts

2. between B and W you should see voltage here, Im not to sure if it will always be on with the car or only when cranking though but under one of these conditions there should be voltage. B is the + side of the coil and should be live the hei opens up the - side of the coil on C

3. between B and C this is across the coil terminals, if 1 and 2 check out with voltage, I'd take the hei module back to the store for them to test or to get a new one.

Reliability wise they should be last a while but you can always carry a spare for $20
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Old June 1st, 2004, 08:07 AM   #69
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How do you keep the module from over heating? I've had to replace one after just 2 days.
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Old June 1st, 2004, 12:14 PM   #70
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Make sure you have it mounted to a flat piece of metal, use the thermal paste on the back. Someone found once they shortened the wires and soldered them, the hei got cooler.
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Old June 4th, 2004, 02:21 PM   #71
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it was me.don`t remove the spade connector , just the copper strip to the screw and keep the wires short and solder them. If you done right You can mount it on a 1.2 mil alu. strip and have no problem with over heating (2 month now )
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Old June 14th, 2004, 09:38 PM   #72
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Joe Bialy for president!

I have been reading this thread since it started. My coil on my 95GT crapped out in May (the coil, not the ignitor). So, I did this mod with a Pertronix HEI module, MSD blaster SS coil, MSD Wire, and MSD tower.
I bought a new cap and rotor. Tip: The Beck Arnley parts were much cheaper than Borg Warner and holding the caps side by side, they were identical.
SO, I mounted the coil wire tower on the cap, modified the wiring harnesses to the disty (making the wiring oh so pretty), and mounted the module and coil to a 3x3x7" piece of 1/4" aluminum angle iron (hoping for max heat dissipation), and mounted that to the frame just below the battery tray.
I wish I had taken pics before I put the battery back in.

Well, it started on the first turn of the key and ran real nice. Yeah!

Problem is, the car started to cough and sputter under load (in heavy Friday afternoon traffic) just two days after the new install.
Well, I replaced the plug wires and the problem hasn't returned. As far as I can figure, the hotter new coil sent the already old plug wires to their grave. So far so good. The real test will be the multiple hour drive to "Medford Smack Down cuatro" on Thursday. Better beleive I'm taking an extra disty, module, wires and more.

Anyway, I just wanted to post a little success story and offer some words of encouragement. Good luck ya'll. I'll take pics next time I pull the battery out.

Last edited by Chris; June 14th, 2004 at 09:42 PM.
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Old June 15th, 2004, 09:43 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
Joe Bialy for president!

I have been reading this thread since it started. My coil on my 95GT crapped out in May (the coil, not the ignitor). So, I did this mod with a Pertronix HEI module, MSD blaster SS coil, MSD Wire, and MSD tower.
I bought a new cap and rotor. Tip: The Beck Arnley parts were much cheaper than Borg Warner and holding the caps side by side, they were identical.
SO, I mounted the coil wire tower on the cap, modified the wiring harnesses to the disty (making the wiring oh so pretty), and mounted the module and coil to a 3x3x7" piece of 1/4" aluminum angle iron (hoping for max heat dissipation), and mounted that to the frame just below the battery tray.
I wish I had taken pics before I put the battery back in.

When modding your cap, make sure you cut the internal bridge, even if your internal coil no longer works.
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Old June 16th, 2004, 01:58 PM   #74
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Quote:
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When modding your cap, make sure you cut the internal bridge, even if your internal coil no longer works.
Ya, it's a 95 with the post that protrudes into the cap. I cut that post off and filled the hole in the cap with RTV.
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Old July 1st, 2004, 04:10 PM   #75
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i bought a DR-100 last night because of my stupid stock ignitor is on it's way out and would not function correctly with megasquirt's ignition.

1. HOLY SHIT THESE THINGS GET HOT!
2. it runs my car flawlessly
3. my tach is now dead on..... (confirmed by megasquirt)
4. what is the differences between... say... the dr100 and the dr124?? the guy at murray's told me that the dr100 is only for canadian import's. (at least on 83 caprices)
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