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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old July 28th, 2005, 06:25 PM   #1
TravisWilliams_GT
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Change your own clutch..........

I just PM'd this to mrduke to help him with his weekend coming up, figured it could go in here as well.:

My best time is 1 hr 37 minutes

OK, as in Spaceballs, here's the Short, short, short version:
  • jack up car
  • remove driver wheel/tire
  • begin drain on transmission plug - 23 mm.
  • remove two strut-to-hub 17mm bolts
  • remove abs sensor from hub (2) 12mm
  • remove crossmember (6) 17mm bolts
  • remove engine cradle (2) 17mm nuts, (2) 14mm nuts, (2) 17mm bolts, and the front motor mount thru bolt (17mm)
  • use chisel and hammer to pop axle from transmission. the hub will swing out far enough to pull the axle out of the transmission, barely.
  • remove the whole slave cylinder itself from transmission (2) 12mm
  • DO NOT OPEN/mess with the line (this way you won't have to rebleed it)
  • pop retailer clip from transmission bracket and lay this up and to the side
  • use the overflow as a hook for it to keep it up and out of the way
  • disconnect starter wire (12mm) and solenoid wire (male to female, squeeze and pull)
  • remove single 17mm nut on upper motor mount to free up big ground.
  • pull up wireharness out of the way to gain access to more bolts
  • remove single ground wire 10mm bolt, other 4wire ground wire 10mm bolt, the bracket they were attached to, and throw the bracket away.
  • weight reduction
  • remove 10mm bolt on rear motormount to transmission brace
  • remove 10mm bolt on main transmission ground wire (black w/ yellow stripe)
  • unplug VSS (grey plug, 2 wire, into top rear of trans vertically)
  • unplug PNP Switch (black 2 wire plug near fuel filter, comes up from underneath)
  • unplug reverse lights switch (2 wire white plug, under starter)
  • begin with removing transmission to engine 17mm bolts, 3 across the top, 2 down the front
  • remove inspection plate (3) 14mm bolts
  • remove shifterlinkage bar (12mm)
  • remove shifter stabilizer bar (14mm)
  • remove 3 rear motormount to transmission 17mm bolts, Start on the TOP One and work down (trust me)
  • remove rear 17mm engine to transmission bolt.
  • remove front lower 17mm engine to transmission bolt., it is a stubby one, remember where it goes
  • leave in lower rear 14mm engine to transmission bolt (trust me)
  • remove 2 10mm nuts on fuel filter
  • remove 17mm bolt from lower leg of upper trans mount accessible now you have moved the fuel filter out of the way (just pop it over one stud to the left)
  • at this time wedge axle input shaft up into the loop of the lower fuel hose, it'll hold it there up and out of the way (trust me for later)
  • secure jack under the motor, use exhaust piping, it'll hold ....(or oil pan....it'll be fine)
  • MARK their orientation in the motor mount bracket (front to rear, the hole is slotted) first with a silver sharpie or something, then remove remaining 2 nuts and single 17mm bolt on upper transmission mount. marking them will help in alignment later for rear 3 17mm MM to MTX bolt install
  • transmission should sag down a bit, but not fall (remember 14mm bolt from above?)
  • get under transmission and remove 14mm bolt.
  • using bench press technique, grab starter with right hand and rear of trans (around the shifter linkage input) with left hand
  • slide transmission off motor....flathead screwdriver and wedge from earlier will help a stubborn contestant.

do clutch replacement and FW? if applicable.

MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH IS DEAD CENTER....use the alignment tool.

Tricks on install:

installation is reverse of removal but.....
Note orientation on upper 2 MM bolts and 2 studs.

use automotive lubricant on input shaft, teeth, and T.O. bearing shaft. hit the steel sleeves on the edge of the bell housing as well, to help it sink when you seat it.

you didn't mess with the passenger side on purpose, because now you have a shaft that will help you guide the transmission back home.

When you go to put it in, sink that shaft first, then play with the alignment on the input shaft.

Careful, it can/will fall back off even if you think you got it on....so thread that 14 mm bolt back in when you can get it to line up to secure the transmission

Oh, add fluid, pump clutch a few times first, and check your engagement before you get it down.
For those that see better than read:


good luck, that is the short, short, short, short, short, version. Fluffernutter
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Last edited by TravisWilliams_GT; May 7th, 2012 at 01:45 PM.
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Old July 28th, 2005, 07:20 PM   #2
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dude thats really freaking fast!! and thanks alot for the write up, i need to put a new clutch in mine here really sooon!!

Austin
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93 FlaT BlacK PgT
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Old July 28th, 2005, 10:15 PM   #3
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um, sticky? I'd say that's very useful information. Hour and a half, eh? You were flyin'.
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Old July 28th, 2005, 10:28 PM   #4
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An hour and 37 mins, thas wild. If only I could get a shop to quote me for 2 hours of labor. I don't have the tools or the confidence to try and pull this off.
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Old July 29th, 2005, 01:18 AM   #5
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MMMM sticky!!!
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Old July 29th, 2005, 04:33 AM   #6
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yea.... I'm just bringing it to you...
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Old July 29th, 2005, 11:48 AM   #7
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A vote for sticky is a vote for saving lives!

I Vote Sticky!
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Old July 29th, 2005, 01:28 PM   #8
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This should go into the archives! I PM'ed Travis asking him for a few tips to make the job easier, and that's what he sent me. I'm sure I can't touch his time, but it'll go twice as fast now. Thanks again Travis
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Old July 29th, 2005, 03:25 PM   #9
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I have two words for high speed repairs: Impact gun.

That is seriously quick though regardless...
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Old July 29th, 2005, 03:30 PM   #10
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It took me 12 hours to do my transmission swap (MTX to MTX) I hate you.
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Old July 29th, 2005, 03:30 PM   #11
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wow It took me 2hrs just to get my trany out of my 1st gen. Some day I will beat that time.

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Old July 29th, 2005, 08:13 PM   #12
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I honestly have forgotten how many of these I have done......as well as engine swaps (best time 7 hrs 10 min start to finish and drive the car away, included WP, TB, TBT, C/FW and VCG install)...................you do enough of them and you get into a rythim, knowing what tool you need enxt before you get to that point, knowing what bolts are next to be removed....ect.....


and .............I don't use impact/pneumatic tools......

all ratchets and pliers, I prefer to feel the pressure/force applied, you loose that with air...
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Old July 30th, 2005, 12:16 AM   #13
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was that motor swap alone or with someone else? The best time my roomate (harvey93gt) and I had was starting around midnight and backing the car out with the new (read: not blown up) motor at around 530-6ish the next morning.
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Old July 30th, 2005, 03:38 PM   #14
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I work alone...........

every now and then I'll have a padowin learner with me, but that one was alone.
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Old July 30th, 2005, 04:16 PM   #15
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That's a good time! It took me almost 6 hours to do mine, well that was by myself and without power tools.
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Old July 30th, 2005, 04:20 PM   #16
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my fastest time is 4 hours. but we had to manually resurface the flywheel in that time with sandpaper. thats part of the 4 hours. someday, i will be like Travis Williams. i did a PGT clutch/flywheel a few days ago, being lazy, took 5.5 hours or so.
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Old July 30th, 2005, 05:46 PM   #17
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Thanks a bunch for this post, it helped me decide to install my own clutch/FW
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Old July 30th, 2005, 06:02 PM   #18
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awesome write up. I took some pics during my recent clutch job, I'll add them to this post shortly. It took me probably a total of 7-8 hrs working VERY meticulously, yet wasted.

Mike
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Old July 30th, 2005, 07:11 PM   #19
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your ***in amazing
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Old July 31st, 2005, 10:56 PM   #20
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awesome write-up i used it already doing my clutch and flywheel, went great! sticky
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Old July 31st, 2005, 11:51 PM   #21
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Hey Travis whats up with that tensioner bolt from the cookout meet man?
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Old August 1st, 2005, 10:46 AM   #22
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisWilliams_GT

My best time is 1 hr 37 minutes
No fair your car isn't rusty , It took me one week to do one axle nut, broke 3 diferent bars on it, ended up cutting it, than I took it to a shop

What's your average time doing the headers ?

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Old August 1st, 2005, 10:52 AM   #23
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This post so proves why Travis Williams is Travis Williams...
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Old August 1st, 2005, 10:54 AM   #24
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1 Hr 37 Min.. Thats Insane!
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Old August 1st, 2005, 03:39 PM   #25
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I hate to rush when i work on cars but if i was forced too, i might beat him by a minute or so and that is with one condition:

Doing the work on my car only!!

All bolt, nuts, surfaces, brackets etc etc are anti-seized and painted for extra protection soo i know i wont have trouble in the future cutting and grinding them.

But seriously 1 hour and 37 minutes is just crazy!

I vote for "Sticky"
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