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Old August 5th, 2017, 10:04 PM   #1
Eric351M
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1st Engine Swap on Coral Mist Probe GT

It's been a while since I've been on here and a big part of it had to do with my engine finally giving out mid 2014, just before my wedding. Life happens and I didn't have much time to look at the car.
Towards the end of 2015 I acquired an engine that was sold as a ZE but turned out to be a DE. Not a problem since I got it for free, hopefully it runs. I had prepped the engine and stopped at that.

https://forums.probetalk.com/showthr...p?t=1701317852

It's been almost two years since I prepped the engine and there hasn't been much progress. I feel a big part of it was that it was an intimidating task as I have never replaced an engine before. I know have a bit more time to dedicate towards the project and there is now a deadline as my wife and I are expecting a baby.

I have already taken out the engine and trans and just doing some engine bay cleaning while I get some parts.



Also made a list of things that came to mind that needs to be replaced or just things so I don't forget, I know I'll forget about something.





Right now I'm stuck on a couple of things. The first of which is the new engine does not have the oil cooler and the old one does. Is this something I should move over to the new engine? If so am I going to have to take the timing of to access the coolant line that looks like it's hiding behind the timing cover?





I'm hoping to keep this up updated with my progress or any road blocks I encounter.
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Old August 6th, 2017, 03:00 AM   #2
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i dont think the newer blocks have the oil cooler coolant lines so it may not be possible, but subscribed to find out.
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Old August 6th, 2017, 09:27 AM   #3
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I believe the lines should be there. I have always used the oil cooler version -as I believe that every little bit helps. And I have used the cooler on newer blocks as well as the older ones. I believe the lines are capped with rubber plugs when no cooler is present. I can't recall at the moment.

I also wrap the oil cooler lines with some fiberglass tape and then put aluminum tape over that to shield the lines from the exhaust. I believe this also helps cool oil -and also extends the rubber hose life expectancy -when exposed to the exhaust heat.

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Last edited by KLZE Porsche; August 6th, 2017 at 09:59 AM.
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Old August 6th, 2017, 11:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLZE Porsche View Post
I believe the lines should be there. I have always used the oil cooler version -as I believe that every little bit helps. And I have used the cooler on newer blocks as well as the older ones. I believe the lines are capped with rubber plugs when no cooler is present. I can't recall at the moment.

I also wrap the oil cooler lines with some fiberglass tape and then put aluminum tape over that to shield the lines from the exhaust. I believe this also helps cool oil -and also extends the rubber hose life expectancy -when exposed to the exhaust heat.

http://www.xtremethings.com/KLDE-ZE/..._Probe-107.jpg
Fernidad dropping the knowledge again, thanks, I'll be sure to do this on the built motor I'm slapping together, never knew there were two different versions.

Also is that little blade connector on the end the oil pressure sending unit? I need to clean mine to see if that's the source of my low read on my unit or if I actually have a bigger problem
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Old August 18th, 2017, 08:09 AM   #5
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So I've been having issues with my daily that have prevented me from working on the probe but found out what the issue was and now I'm good to go.

I was able to get the transmission cleaned up and got the new rack n pinion along with the brake booster and brake master cylinder. The rack n pinion was a mist first as the engine is out of the way and would be much easier to do than with it in the way.






Now after doing some research i found the post that Mr.Jason had where he mentioned the oil cooler lines.

https://forums.probetalk.com/showthr...p?t=1701298118

I would have to take the timing belt off and the front cam to replace the lines. Is this something I should do now as I would regret it down the line?

I am also running into an issue were I have the oulaw engineering intake manifold spacers but my gaskets ripped. I see that their site is down and haven't been able to find suitable replacement gaskets. What would you guys recommend as far as getting gaskets or just ditch the spacers?

I should be getting more done this weekend.
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Old August 18th, 2017, 09:21 AM   #6
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Get some copper gasket spray for the IM gaskets.
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Old September 10th, 2017, 10:54 PM   #7
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Okay, so I've been taking my time with swapping over the parts and getting them nice and clean.

I had to take the timing belt off to swap out the coolant housing for the oil cooler feed line. Ended up getting a new knock sensor since the one it had was the wrong connection and the old one had too many miles.






I was getting ready to mount the trans so I can drop in the engine but as I was about to mount my fidanza flywheel I noticed that the mounting plate is a larger diameter than the original engine. I've been trying to search on here for some help but having trouble with my searches. The stock mounting plate is about a 3in diameter and the new engine is 3.5in diameter.





Now I've read posts for ATX to MTX conversions which I'm guessing is what I'm dealing with right now but nothing specific to this. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old September 18th, 2017, 08:15 AM   #8
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So things didn't go as planed and I wasn't able to get the car running this weekend as its my first engine swap and it's going slow for me.

I was able to find out that the reason my flywheel didn't fit was because it still had the ATX spacer that supposedly falls off by itself but mine was stuck on there with some rust.

After some headaches trying to get mount the engine, I was able to get the passenger side in but the transmission mount would not align and was off by about 1/4in. Now the only thing I could think of is that I did not use the original passenger side engine mounting plate and used the one that came with the new engine. I am now thinking that there is a slight difference because I doubt the engine shrunk. So now my plan is to change the mount and try it again.

This has been engine swap has showed me a lot of things that I've been scared or clueless about. Looking forward to the end to where I can turn that key and jump with joy. Slowly but surely.



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Old September 18th, 2017, 08:20 PM   #9
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i remember having to change the passenger side mount on mine as well, the engine sure does look good. Nice work
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Old September 23rd, 2017, 10:19 PM   #10
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So I ended the day feeling very accomplished.

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Old September 24th, 2017, 07:23 PM   #11
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So it runs but then dies after about 5 min if not on the gfs. I'm thinking it's a vacuum leak but everything is back where it was. Also think I cracked the housing of the oil sending unit as it's leaking from the connection. Also not getting any oil pressure on my gauge.

I thought I was going to be all done, but still have to figure some things out.
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Old September 24th, 2017, 08:58 PM   #12
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When I put my ZE in the idle was crazy up and down, loud vacuum sound, couldn't find any leaks. The last thing I tried was the big phillips screw on top of the throttle body, it was the culprit. I figure most people wouldn't mess with throttle settings removing the engine, but someone did, or it's some result of a different ecu... just something to check on.
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