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outlaw's thermoblok spacers or not?

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  • outlaw's thermoblok spacers or not?

    Before I even consider them, how hard is it to pull the IM off of there to install these puppies? Looks like the fuel injectors and a whole other boatload of things are in my way for this job... Don't really feel like messing with fuel stuff (only have done that on my 87 prelude, seemed much less complex than this obd2 stuff).

    Any experience with these spacers on the 2.0? And for $100, the butt dyno is going to have to take a back seat to actual results... but hey if all you got is the butt dyno, i guess it's better than nothing at all.

    Also considering getting the ractive front strut bar, clearance issues here?

    last post for the night/morning (whoops! 4am) need sleepy.
    Black 96 Se 2.0 ATX 75k miles

    18" wheels, light engine/susp. mods, full audio setup.

  • #2
    Its a tricky job ive never done it on a probe but on a rwd v6 camaro with more motor access and room than a probe so i imagine its a JOB.
    Come on spacers arent worth the work, maybe 2hp if that you get that taking out those tiny rear seats. unless your a 1/4 mile style and trying to shave that .7878787 second of the time dont worry about it i dont know what mods you have, but im sure it not worth the work. And wont give you BLAST ASS BOOST WHOA!!!
    FORD or BUST
    5.0 litre beater 91 Stang Hatchback...HAHAHAHA

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    • #3
      MakdaddyMac, your posts make less sense every day. Shaving .78 seconds off a 1/4 mile E.T. by adding thermal spacers is impossible.

      This is what the Outlaw Engineering web site says about this spacer kit:
      This dyno chart shows the results from the installation of a ThermoBlok kit on a '94 Ford Probe SE. The tests were done on the same car and same day, same gear, etc, immediately following the installation. The vehicle was fully warmed up for both tests and no other modifications were done.

      RESULTS: maximum gain 3.1 horsepower and 4.4 ft-lbs of torque.
      Those kind of maximum gains for $99 is a decent value for a naturally aspirated I4 engine.
      Last edited by pin; August 4, 2004, 04:48 PM.
      Barry
      01 Saturn SL2 5-speed
      Easy Way Electronics

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      • #4
        pin what are you talking about i was being sarcastic,
        ~hey velvet exactly its not worth it for 99.00 you could get something better.
        FORD or BUST
        5.0 litre beater 91 Stang Hatchback...HAHAHAHA

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        • #5
          Originally posted by MakdaddyMac
          pin what are you talking about i was being sarcastic,
          ~hey velvet exactly its not worth it for 99.00 you could get something better.
          yea for 99 dollars you could get a universal muffler haha

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          • #6
            if you are looking for a Ractive Front strut tower Bar.... I am selling mine... it is polished. Looking to get $25+ Shipping. The clearance is perfect, had no trouble at all putting it on. Very simple installation and works very well. As far as the Spacers go.... they do not actually GIVE more HP, they just free it up. See, your car Prolly feels more peppy when you first start it up and start to drive it. After about 5-10 Minutes of driving, the "Crisp" response seems to fade away a little. These spacers Provide the heat conductivity to soak up all that heat from the engine bay B4 it enters the head. They just make your car feel more Alive,Peppy all the time. I think it would be worth the $100 for them. I am prolly gonna get them when I take my FSDE Manifold off to sell it.

            Hope this info helps man,


            Joe
            1992 Taurus SHO MODS: SHOshop Y-Pipe, 2.5" Magnaflow Catback, K&N
            2007 Subaru WRX TR MODS: SPT Intake, Invidia 4"-3" catless DP, Invidia 3" street exhaust, Open Source Tune, Big Top Mount
            Best 1/4- 12.7@ 106mph on a 1.78 60'

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            • #7
              you don't need to spend $100 on a spacer if you have access to a dremel and have a little bit of talent
              mine was less then ten bucks

              pulling the im off is not that tricky of a job
              iirc you don't even have to remove the fuel rail
              just disconnect the lines and pull the im and fuel rail out together
              i don't think i even removed the tb

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