Announcement

***Bomb Squad*** · July 19, 2002, 11:33 PM

Bulb Information (Great work PM and Nomad)

Front blinker:
1157
Front sidemarker:
194
Headlamps:
H4666
Foglamps:
881 (can be upgraded to higher wattages)
Tail & Brake:
3497 (1156 will fit)
Rear Turn Signal:
3496 (1157 will fit)
Rear sidemarker:
168 (194 will fit)
Reverse:
1156
Third Brake Lamp:
921
License Plate:
168 (194 will fit)
Underhood:
906 (194 will fit)
Trunk:
3022
Domelamp:
3022
Map lamps:
3022
Footwells:
194
Glovebox:
194
Window switches & console buttons:
Radioshack 272-1092c; Ford #F32Z-13466-H
Keyholes:
Radioshack 272-1092c
Instrument Cluster:
161
A/C controls:
194
Ashtray:
194
Lighter:
194

**UBSTANKN** · August 14, 2002, 08:06 AM

found this link in a BB thread.

How to Change Ford Logo Color

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...threadid=44770

Omni_Potent posted this link in an appearance thred

Angel Eye Mod

http://students.washington.edu/ashis...gel%20Eyes.htm

**probesport_gt** · January 24, 2003, 07:16 AM

Ok...after seeing a post that ask "will these rims fit my car?" every morning when I log onto ptalk, I decided to make ONE post, sticky, answering the questions on rims, tires, offsets, fits, etc. Here we go:

Stock wheel specs:
*16" w/ 5 x 114.3 with a 40mm offset*
Stock tire size:
*225/50/R16*

Pictures & Specs of every make & model of stock Probe rims and tires

Now onto aftermarket rim fits:

LUG PATTERNS

You MUST have rims w/ 5x114.3 (which is also known as 5x4.5)

A lot of aftermarket rims will have 2 sets of bolt patterns on 1 wheel (10 holes) One set of 5 will be 5x100 (WONT FIT), and the other set will be 5x114.3 (WILL FIT) So...that tells us that this wheel WILL FIT THE PROBE.

If the wheel is listed as 5x4 ½, then the wheel WILL FIT. (5x4 ½=5x4.5=5x114.3)

OFFSETS

~Higher the offset #= the closer the wheel sits to the strut
~Lower the offset #= the the wheel sitting farther away from the strut.

Once again the stock rims have 40mm offsets. With the proper tire sizing on a 40mm offset you could easily fit 18x8, 19x8 wheels on all 4 corners. ~thx Chris

~The lowest offset that I know of on a probe is 32mm. (this requires cutting the spring perches and possibly rolling the fender wells based on tire size~you would need coil overs more than likely)
~The highest offset that I know people run on the probe is a 50mm. (now with that offset 3mm spacers are need on the rear)

So basically, anything between 32mm & 50mm will fit. It all depends on where you want the wheel sitting.

RIM SIZES

Most people who go aftermarket have anywhere from 16" to 19"s on the probes.

Common sizes found on probes are:
~16x6.5, 16x7*
~17x7*, 17x7.5, 17.8
~18x7.5, 18x8*, 18x9
~19x8
*means most common sold and found on probes

Some of these might take a little work to the suspension to get to fit (such as 19"s and 18x9"s), but it can be done.

TIRE SIZES

Lets break down the tire markings:

ex: 205/40/17

~The "205" part of that marking is referring to the width of the tire. The higher the #, the wider the tire.
~The "40" part of that marking is referring to the percentage of the width of the tire. So if you have a "205" series tire, then it means the height of the sidewall is 40% of the width. The sidewall is how thick the tire is. The lower the percentage, the smaller the sidewall, the lower the tire height. (also the lower the percentage, the worse the ride quality in most cases)
~Last the "17" part of that marking refers to what size rims the tires are made for. These in the example would be for 17" rims.

So to review here:
~If you are going for looks, go with a smaller sidewall height on the tire.
~If you are going for ride comfort, go with a taller sidewall height on the tire.
~Each width of rim will have a min and a max width tire that can be mounted on it and still seal properly. Make sure you check all the specs on your wheels when choosing tires for your rims. Select the best tires that match your particular rims!

FD (RX7) RIMS

A few probe owners opt to go with the 3rd Gen RX7 rims (known as FD rims) due to the looks and weight of the wheels. They are on the 93-95 Mazda RX-7.

Specs:
~16x8 with a 50mm offset
~93's weigh in at 13.8lbs each, 94 and on weigh in at 16lbs each. (due to the 93s cracking and having to be reinforced in the later years) ~93mx6er
~most run 225/50/16 size tires with them

So..they fit, but due to the width the tires hit the struts a little. These rims require 4.5-5mm spacers in the rear!!!

_________________________________________________

Ok...I think that covers it. Anyone FEEL FREE to pm if anything is wrong or you think I need to re-word, or add anything to this. Thanks and I hope this helps.

Later
Wes

**Zac** · February 13, 2003, 11:50 PM

Places to buy wheels:

http://www.onlinetires.com/main.html
http://www.1010tires.com
http://www.1stopcustomwheels.com/
http://www.800wheels.com
http://www.aaarims.com/
http://adaptivestrategies.com/
http://www.afftw.com
http://www.autoimaging.com
http://www.aktusa.com/wheels/wheels.html
http://www.azcwheels.com
http://www.b17a.com http://caraddons.com/Catalog/subpag...stom_wheels.htm
http://www.custom-wheels.com/cfwdpage.htm
http://www.customwheelsdirect.com/
http://www.customwheelservice.com
http://www.customwheelsmarket.com
http://www.cruisin-gold.com/
http://www.discounttire.com
http://www.dmtechamerica.com/
http://www.dtcmotorsports.com
http://www.ebay.com
http://www.emowheels.com/emo_site/c...r/wheelpage.asp
http://www.englishcustompolishing.com
http://www.finoswheels.com
http://www.flipstires.com/Wheels/body_wheels.html
http://www.german-wheels.com
http://www.gmpperformance.com/Default.htm
http://www.grouptyre.co.uk/asa_wheels.htm
http://www.gtautosports.com
http://www.goodroads.net
http://www.heavyreaction.com
http://www.hubcap-tire-wheel.com
http://www.importhookup.com
http://www.imoto.com
http://www.infinite-motorsports.com
http://www.inlinefour.com
http://www.jdmhondaparts.com
http://www.king-motorsports.com
http://www.metrowheels.net
http://www.mileone.com/mrtire/wheels.htm
http://www.modacar.com
http://www.onlinetires.com
http://www.overboost.com/obs/
http://www.ozzytyres.com.au/
http://www.precisioninstallations.com
http://www.rim1.com
http://www.rimstock.com
http://www.salesco.com
http://www.savastire.com
http://www.shinestreet.com/wheels
http://www.speedywheels.com
http://www.superbuytires.com
http://www.superlite-wheels.com/
http://www.tirepros.com/wheels.html
http://www.tirerack.com
http://www.ultrawheel.com/
http://www.usacomp.com/Road.htm
http://www.victoriatire.com
http://www.washingtontire.com
http://wheelfind.com/selling/
http://www.wheelsmarket.com/
http://www.wheelmart.com
http://www.wheelmax.com
http://www.wheeloptions.com
http://www.wheelsone.com
http://www.wheeltech.com/main2.html
http://www.wheelwarehouse.com
http://www.wholesalewheel.com
http://www.wholesalehyperformance.com
http://www.whalentire.com
https://www.woodfins.com/index.ASP

**probesport_gt** · March 20, 2003, 08:58 AM

EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT BODY KITS!!!
~From KidGT (Noah)
There have been a lot of closed posts on this subject so i decided to take care of it once and for all.

Welcome to Body Kit 101:
So you want your car to look cooler well youve come to the right place. There are several kits out there but before we get to those there are several different things you need to know first.

Looks:
Thats the whole point of these things. Unlike the honda crowd there arent hundreds of different styles out there to choose from but what weve go aint that shabby.

When you begin thinking about purchasing a kit you need to do some reaserch. Your off to a good start by reading this.

1) First search the pic post for some shots of the kit actually on a car. its gonna look differnt if you just see it sitting on a table in the shop.

2) Go outside and take a good look at you car. Think about how it will look on your car beacuse youre going to be investing a lot of time and money into this thing. So if you have any doubts this would be a good place to stop.

3) To each they're own. Just because one person says a kit looks bad doesnt mean everyone thinks the same. Sure theyre are some exceptions, but if you like it go for it. originality wins points in the end.

Fitment:
ODDS ARE YOUR KIT WONT FIT RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX!!!
it doesnt matter where you buy it from you should go in expecting this. most places have a no return policy. if you plan on pulling a diy i suggest you have somebody around who knows bodywork. if not its best to take it to a reputable shop. just ask around in you poc forum or at your local performance shop. Its gonna cost more but you'll be happier with the finished product. if you know what youre doing

to you.

Should you get a fit that fits well pat yourself on the back. You got lucky. If youre llike the rest of us and the thing doesnt fit you may have a long road ahead of you. The majority of fitment issues happen with fronts and sideskirts.

For bumpers:
Most of the time you may just need to sand off a small portion of something, or add a little fiberglass and bondo around the headlight area. The tabs that help you connect it to the body may need strengthening or may not be there at all. There are some extreme cases tho. For example Wes (Probesport_GT) had to cut off the top of his oem bumper and attach it to the bottom half of hiskit to get it to fit. This is an extreme case tho so dont let it scare you.

Sideskirts:
Most of the problems ive heard of stem from having it be to thin. in this case just add a little fiberglass to the inside to strengthen it. Others it may just require some sanding to get it to fit correctly.

Hoods:
Often forgoten because theyre only two or three good looking ones out there. Not to many fitment issues either. mostly just sanding to fit. also not that only one hood i know of bolts to the hood hinges so you'll need hood locks to keep it down. Most hoods are also made in carbon fiber if you want looks and weight reduction.

On a final note if you plan on getting just a front bumper dont wait till you can afford the whole kit or at least sideskirts to go along with it. i know from personal experience that just the fron makes the car look akward so if at all possible try to stay away from it.

Cost:
So you decided on what to get. Now comes the shopping around for the best price. First place id look is the for sale forum. there is always a chance you might be able to pick up a used one or never used one for a good price. BONUS if its used than it was already fitted to a car so you dont need to worry about it!!
Just because you have just enough money to get the kit doesnt mean its time to order yet. you need to consider other things in the price as well. Shipping for one can be brutal, if youre getting it done at a shop you need to worry about labor costs, if youre diy you'll need to have some extra to invest in bondo and fiberglass just incase the fitment is horrible, and after all this you still gotta get the damn things painted. so you should estimate about $200-$600 bones extra to get this done but it maybe less or maybe more it all depends.

Where to buy from?:
This question alos gets asked alot. Since there maybe only one company that makes a kit you may have no choice but to deal with them. Still i can steer you in the right direction.

FX Designs:
IMHO the best looking stuff out there. Bad stories about theyre products are few and far between. Most likely you best option.

Importfan/GTP International:

**probesport_gt** · March 20, 2003, 08:58 AM

The common consensus is that the cw front look bomb but fits horrible. Believe me. I've been there.
People may have their grips with individual companies but for the most part these two are the best and the worst.
At the end of this ill add a list of links to the different sites and what they offer.

Things to consider:
Before you go out and buy this thing there are still yet more things you need you consider.

1) Is this car you're daily driver? If so you might want to shy away. Maybe not the whole thing but just the front. You need to remember its fiberglass its not incredibly strong. Do you really want to put it through the punishment of your daily commute? One pot hole and BAM!!! A whole lot of crying and bitching ensues.

2) Where do you live? This goes back to the whole daily driver thing. Live out in the country? just watch out on dirt roads for flying rocks. Live in the city? Pot holes everywhere!! Lots of cars jammed in close together = Plenty of chances for accident. Suburbia? Speed bumps and gutters at the bottom of the driveway all = SCRAPE!! The worst sound ever. Live in Minnesota? You'll have the fastest snowplow in the city.

Getting it all together:
Well you ordered you're kit and its here. If you going the shop route take it in, and sit back and relax till its done. Should you be diy heres where the challenge begins. Like I said earlier if you get lucky and get one that fits the install is pretty straight forward. My arms are getting cramped so ill add some install info later.
If you kit doesn’t fit address the problem areas. Odds are if you search someones already had the same problem as you and you can just pm them or whatever and ask for advice. This is usually the part where the bondo comes in.
So when you’ve got it all fitted don’t be happy yet be happy but you're not done yet. Paint time. Now some people will fit the kit then get it painted then put it on the car. I think that defeats the purpose. Odds are you'll scratch it or whatever putting it on. I would, like others, fit it, install it, then get it and the immediate area around it painted. If you're going to mold it on (make it look like its part of the car) you don’t have any other choices.

PLEASE DO NOT DRIVE AROUND IN PRIMER! ITS TACKY! Unless you have to drive it to the paint shop. Then at least try to do it under the cover of night

Side note: please don’t get your car painted at macco. They do shoddy work, and you want this to look good don’t you? For you SoCal guys. Take a trip down to Mexico and get it done at a fraction of the price.

Enjoy:

go show off for the ladies or show up the local ricers just enjoy yor work and take pride in your badass car!

I may have forgotten something so feel free to add if necessary. I'm tired and have class tomorrow so I'm out.

**probesport_gt** · March 20, 2003, 08:59 AM

heres that list i promised courtesy of DJ_ISDAZED updated by me:

Ok just so there aren't any confussion and mis-informed people telling newbies anything wrong....
[Edit]NOW INCLUDING 1ST GEN'S[/Edit]

Ok the kit's available for the probe as follow's:

http://www.Impactparts.com
93-95 Probe Aero Kit (51-5480) . . . $679.95
(se and base model's only)
90-92 Probe Aero Kit (51-5290) . . . $639.95
Add the optional Rear Wings for both for only $129.95 when purchased with a Kit.

http://www.spoilersetc.net make's the ninja kit
Ford - Probe - Ninja - Complete - Kit '93-'97
$795.00
Ford - Probe - Ninja - Front '93-'97
$295.00
Ford - Probe - Ninja - Side '93-'97
$225.00
Ford - Probe - Ninja - Rear '93-'97
$295.00
Ford - Probe - Ninja - Door Panels BACK
$150.00
Probe Complete Kit '93 - '95
$535.00
Probe Airdam
$225.00
Probe Side Skirts
$225.00
Probe Rear Skirt
$225.00
Probe Door Panels
$90.00

http://www.wholehyper.com the S.W.A.A.T 3 piece kit... they don't seem to be carrying it anymore

http://www.importfan.com

Ford Probe 93-97 C-WINGS Carbon Double Sided Type OEM Style Hood
$399.00
Ford Probe 93-97 C-WINGS Carbon Double Sided Type SS Style Hood
$599.00
Ford Probe 93-97 C-WINGS Type CW N1 Style Front F501
$159.00
Ford Probe 93-97 GTP Type BX Integra Style Front F512+
$299.00
Ford Probe 93-97 GTP Type Sensei 1 Style Front F511
$159.00
Ford Probe 93-97 GTP Type Sensei 1 Style Rear R511
$159.00
Ford Probe 93-97 GTP Type Sensei 1 Style Sides SS511
$159.00
Ford Probe 93-97 GTP Type Show Off 3 Front ?
$159.00

http://www.groundeffects.com = Erebuni
FORD PROBE Shogun Style 180
1421.00
FORD PROBE Style 901 (base only)
621.00
FORD PROBE Style 120 (base only)
743.00

http://www.fxdesigns.com

Wing Style Unlighted FX-15
$168 (us) $268 (cdn)
Combat Wing Unlighted FX-188
$298 (us) $438 (cdn)
Rally Front Bumper Cover (Shogun)
$328 (us) $488 (cdn)
Front Bumper Cover
$328 (us) $488 (cdn)
VS Side Skirts
$348 (us) $488 (cdn)
Combat Wing Lighted FX-188L
$348 (us) $488 (cdn)
Mid Wing with LED FX-167L
$228 (us) $368 (cdn)
Combat Chin Spoiler FX-301
$228 (us) $368 (cdn)
Combat Side Skirts FX-302
$348 (us) $488 (cdn)
Combat Rear Skirts FX-650
$188 (us) $288 (cdn)
Xdream rear cover
$328 (us) $488 (cdn)
VS Combat Wing with Brake and Signal LEDs FX-300LBS
$498 (us) $650 (cdn)
Touring Wing lighted
$228 (us) $368 (cdn)

http://www.asylumms.com
New Neo BlitZ kit
Front $399
sides$349
rear $300
Full $999
Probe NEO CW
Front $399
Sides $349
Rear $399
Full $999
Probe SINSEI
Front $329
Sides $329
Rear $329
Full $899
Probe NEO VS
Front $299
Sides $299
Rear $299
Full $799
93 Probe Base Model Razzi 4pc Kit
Front $299
Sides $299
Rear $299
Full $499
93-97 Probe Base Model Sigma 4pc Kit
Full $699
93-95 Probe Base Model SP 4pc Kit
Front $199
Sides $199
Rear $199
Full $199
93-95 Probe Base Model Xenon 4pc Kit
Full $679

http://www.razzi.com
first gen's gt -base model's along with 93+ base kit as well~ kinda ugly if you ask me

http://www.Andysautosport.com
93-97 Probe Intimidator Kit
Front $349
Sides $299
Rear $349
Full $799

Aerogear Predator hood
$389
$699 (carbon fiber)

OEM Carbon Fiber hood
$469

http://www.corksport.com

CORK SPORT "Type CS" Lip
$ 160.00
CORK SPORT "Type CW" bumper
$ 375.00
EREBUNI Bow style wing with LED
$ 335.00
EREBUNI Fin style spoiler
$ 305.00
EREBUNI OEM style rear wing
$ 158.00
EREBUNI Shogun style wing
$ 340.00
EREBUNI Style 23 body kit (Non-GT)
$ 699.00
EREBUNI Super style wing
$ 305.00
FX DESIGNS Combat Lip I
$ 228.00
FX DESIGNS Combat Side Skirts
$ 368.00
FX DESIGNS Combat rear wing
$ 346.00
FX DESIGNS Front bumper
$ 368.00
FX DESIGNS Rear bumper caps
$ 200.00
FX DESIGNS Sides Skirts "Type II"
$ 368.00
SPOILERS ETC Ninja Body Kit
$ 870.00
SPOILERS ETC Ninja Front Bumper
$ 464.00
SPOILERS ETC Ninja Rear Bumper
$ 464.00
SPOILERS ETC Ninja Side Skirts
$ 255.00

keith-(and me)

Later days,
Noah

**UBSTANKN** · March 25, 2003, 07:56 AM

I don't know if you want to include this in your list of body kits, but there is another site that sells kits. I havn't heard anything about their quality though.

http://www.onderground-design.com
Ford Probe 1993-1997 Blitz Front Bumper
$320.00
Ford Probe 1993-1997 Speedster Front Bumper
$300.00
Ford Probe 1993-1997 Rear Bumper with molded GT Reflective plate insert replacement (non-reflective)
$335.00
Ford Probe 1993-1997 Speedster Rear Bumper Lip
$250.00
Ford Probe 1993-1997 Speedster Sideskirt
$300.00
Ford Probe 1993-1997 Columbia Kit
COMING SOON (so they say, there was a large forum posted about this kit)
Ford Probe 1993-1997 Bullfight Hood
$360.00

**probesport_gt** · May 22, 2003, 08:57 AM

HOW TO's (w/ step by step and pics!)

Install FX rear tirangles on a 95-97 GT rear bumper
Shave front liscense plate holder and tag

**probesport_gt** · June 3, 2003, 10:33 AM

HOW TO Repair Fiberglass Kits. (pics)

Thanks James (PA_Probe)

Later
Wes

**probesport_gt** · September 9, 2003, 11:17 AM

Rust Problems

From Impact93:

HOW TO REPAIR RUST SPOTS:

To start with your gonna need some Fiberglass sheeting .....they come in lil zip lock sized bags and look basicly like white cloth...in that same section there will be a bottle of somethin called Resin ...you need that...it should come with Hardiner inside the plastic cap ontop.....also while your there pick up some Bondo wich also should come with its own hardiner cream, (ask to make sure cuz it would be stupid to go home without hardiner). While your in the isle you should also pick up some Glaze compound or Spot Putty ....they call it both...its for filling pinholes in your Bondo. While your there you better pick up a Bondo Application kit it consists of a trowel and a mixing stick, yes it seems trivial but dont be a smart ass and think you can do it with a normal trowel..you cant...the Bondo trowel is specaily made for flex and non stick...GET IT..YOU NEED IT also get some Laquer Thinner Pronounced LACK-ER THIN-ER your gonna need it to clean your hands and car...cuz nothin else will. Before you leave dont forget the Sandpaper your gonna need to start with a rough grit...120 180..dosnt really matter what you start with as long as its rough....and you can get an inbetween step like 200-240 but you MUST have 400 grit for the finish...and dont try to save money buy JUST buying 400 grit...it will take you years to finish if you do that. If you have some extra money kicken around wich i doubt you do by now, you might also consider picking up a Body file Just speeds things up a bit in some places....no better finish. Paint/Primer/Clear Coat if your gonna do it yourself.

Summary of Supplies

Fiberglass sheeting
Resin
Bondo
Glazing compound or Spot putty Bondo aplication kit
Laquer Thinner
Sandpaper
Body file
Paint/Clearcoat Primer

Since your still reading you must be feeling brave

your about to embark on journy of annoyance but great payoff in the end

I have a rust spot

Easy- Alright take a 100-200 grit sandpaper and sand the spot in circular motion untill you can see silver metal, tap on it with a sharp object (nail and hammer) but not hard enough to make a dent....if the nail dosnt go thru then ur ok.. nail does go thru? See HARD section below ..Simply tape the surrounding area off and spray a shot of primer over the silver, take 400 grit sandpaper and sand lightly, not taking off the primer...but smoothing it so you cant feel any roughness. Take some color match paint and simply spray the area.
(Color match paint can be found at any large hardware store, match the color code of your car *sticker on the inside of the driverside door*) (before spraying make sure you read spray directions on back of spray can, you should be spraying back and forith over the same section at least 7 times before you get the right thickness...the key is very THIN coats) After you spray the area to your likeing take the tape off, WAIT for the paint to dry at LEAST 1 hour....you'll notice no matter how close you matched the paint it wont look perfect...and it never will unless you take it to a shop...anyway..now to blend it better YES with the tape off...spray the clear coat over the part you just painted feathering to the sides (pulling back with the spray can) its ok to overlap onto the original paint a lil bit...this will help blend even more *assuming your car is clean*

GENERAL RULES
If your outside Dont paint your car on a cloudy day...its not good, makes the paint thick and sticky...no fun to work with....if its a sunny day make sure you do the painting in the shade yes yes..i know its all very wierd but this will help you get the best finish...also..avoid windy areas...if somthing small should stick to your car it will be magnified x200 once shiney paint is on it. Spray paint gets EVERYWHERE especally if your doing it right....make sure you cover your car with an old sheet or somethin on the side your painting and when you tape the area your workin on off....have a look before you spray...What is that paint gonna hit?....your new rims?...turn signals?..window?...use normal masking tape and newspaper to cover general area's and an old bed sheet or somethin for anything else your worried about....garbage bags work great for the tires. if you should happen to get paint on somethin you didnt want to...use Laqure thinner to get it off.....put it on a rag and wipe.....wash area with water after.

more to come

**probesport_gt** · September 9, 2003, 11:20 AM

Rust Problems

Cont. From Impact93:

Hard

Alright shity deal...the nail went thru huh? so now your left with this big shiney patch and a hole, well not all is lost..here's your big chance to kill that rust forever.....see that spot you sanded....you know....just the rusty spot, make that silver patch at least twice as big.....your gonna need to if you wanna get rid of that crap for good. the next step is to take some metal sheers if there is ALOT of rust..and cut it all off untill you KNOW that its just good metal....you dont want any rust now, cuz it will come back if you dont get it. If you dont have metal sheers...or the hole is to small...simply sand away in that hole untill you have smooth silver edges all the way around. Ok on to bondo, if your hole is relativly small then your not gonna need to put fiberglass sheeting over it. Small as in really small like my mouse arrow type small

any bigger than that and your still readin..lol. Alright so you sanded a bigger area and you have cut/sanded the hole so you got nothin but shiney metal around great...time for the fiberglass sheeting, when you cut your sheeting to size its important to make it have overlap, you cant just stick a lil pice near the hole...you have to get enough overlap for stability (thats why you sanded that extra area) Anyway....read the resin instructions and your hardiner and mix...dip your Pre-Cut piece of fiberglass sheeting into your mix..make sure you get it all nice and wet (you may want to wear gloves) take it out and kinda push all the excess goop off..its just gonna make your job harder later...as long as your fiberglass piece in your hand isnt white anymore..your good to go. Now just place your Fiberglass over the hole making sure that you have a decent overlap on each side of it, it should take a few min to get really sticky...when you do this MAKE SURE....that the fiberglass dips into your hole a lil bit...not a lot...but it cannot be level with the rest of your car panel your gonna need a slight dip in in to finish this properly. let it dry for a half hour.

On to the bondo, mix your bondo on a small piece of glass (is the best thing) or something hard and flat....read the bondo instructons and mix as directed...it dosnt really matter how much hardiner you put in...the more you put in the faster it will harden....dont put to little in though...that will take to long. Mixed? good ok now take your bondo trowel get some bondo on the leading edge and smear it onto the fiberglass making sure you overlap each fiberglass edge by about 3 quarters of an inch less....more....

just make sure you overlap it. Keep applying bondo untill you cant see the fiberglass anymore and your edges are overlaped, it dosnt have to look all pretty so dont worry about it, and yea member that dip you made in your fiberglass...well once you applied the bondo you should make it level with the rest of your bondo...and your bondo should end up about 3 paper widths above your regular paint surface..more is good...10 paper widths if you want...just means more sanding for you

wait an hour for the bondo to dry completly. [Yes while your doing this you will have to mix your bondo repeatedly cuz it will dry on you....no problem...and yes you can apply your new batch of bondo to your bondo thats already on the car dry or not] When your done and satisfied let your bondo dry for an hour.

Ok now take your sandpaper 100-120 grit and sand your bondo down yes you can press on it...go ahead..GET MAD!...anyway sand it down and make sure you feather the edges as in..make sure you cant feel the transition from your paint to bondo expeccialy on the leading edges, sand it untill its relativly smooth and then break out the 400 grit sandpaper for the finishing....yes go over your edges again....sand this untill its so smooth you can run your hand across it and not feel the diference between that and paint (in this case your hands are better eyes than your eyes)......ok now that its sanded, tape off the area surrounding your bondo, cover your car, your rims..blah blah blah...now take your primer and give it a shot over the bondo...good...now wait for the paint to dry wont take long....now go back and look...see all those lil ugly holes and that dip you didnt fill right? Imagin that with shiney paint Ewww

Anyway take your Spot putty, read the instructions and then proceed to apply to those lil holes and dips in your bondo..I use the edge of an exacto knife to apply my spot putty....you dont need to much..just fill the holes.....wait for it to dry...and sand again, repeat as necessary Primer..spot putty...sand...untill your satisfied...now take your car to a shop to get painted...or go back up to the last thread to see how. to do it yourself

HAVE A NICE DAY

Tomorrow...leading edges and BIG HOLES.

**probesport_gt** · October 23, 2003, 01:25 PM

ALL BODY KITS

Here is a listing of all body kits (legit or custom) for the 2nd Gen Probes.

Thanks to everyone who posted in the post concerning this. PM or email if more need to be added or any comments.

FRONT BUMPER OR LIP

AAS front
Aerogear Rally Front
Battle "Z" (same as Blitz)
Blitz
Bomex
CS lip
Custom GT/Shogun Front
Custom Performance - that new german orange one
Custom RX7 front
CWest
CWest 2
Erebuni shogun
FX proto custom blue front
FX shogun front
FX gen 2 proto lip
FX gen one lip
Kaotic aas w/out vents (intimidator)
MC Rally
Mikals custom one (ZX2)
Millenium Front
Modified Flat Bottom Sinsei
Modified GT Front, lowered 3 inches for FMIC
Modified GT Front without Center support beam
Onderground blitz
Onderground speedster
Ondergound columbia
Pegasus old kit
Sinsei front
Swaat
Xenon base kit

REAR BUMPER OR ADD-ON

Battle "Z" (same as Blitz)
Blitz Rear (seen pic, actual production piece)
Erebuni shogun Rear
FX Gen 1 Triangles
FX X Dream
Kaotic/aas rear
Millenium Rear
Ninja (shogun) Rear
Onderground speedster
Onderground Rear Lip Add On 95-97
Sensei Rear
Sensei Modified aka Wes's old Rear
Veilside RX7 Invader Triangles

SIDE SKIRTS

Custom MR2 Vented Side Skirts
Erebuni shogun Sides
Explorer Sides aka T.Williams
FX Gen 1 Sides
FX Gen 2 Combat Sides
JC Whitney Universal Skirts
Kaotic Side Skirts
Ninja (shogun) Sides
Night Ryder Custom side skirts
Onderground Speedster Sides
Sensei Sides
Spoilers Etc. Ninja non vented sides

FULL KITS

Aerogear Millenium
Asylumms Sigma (Base)
Asylumms SP (Base)
Erebuni Shogun
Full Sinsei
FX Full Gen 1 Kit
Razzi (Base)
Spoilers Etc Ninja Kit

HOOD

Aerogear Predator
Aerogear CF Predator
CF OEM Style Hood
CF GTP SS Sinsei Hood
Custom Scoops
Custom Vented Hoods
Fortier SuperProbe Hood
Nepo Don Ferrari Hood
Onderground Bullfrog hood
Sinsei SS Hood

LIGHT COVERS

Asylumms CF Headlight Covers
CorkSport CS Vented Headlight Cover

Thats it for now...just PM if there are more that need to be added.

Later
Wes

**taz42zero** · January 14, 2004, 02:14 PM

here is a how to for the fog light mod for the mx-6:

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...did=1701077103

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