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**polarexpress17** · August 31, 2006, 07:43 AM

usually, the solenoid mounts to the chassis, on most cars its like that, however on my buddys 4 door he had to put it in the front doors because there wasnt enough room on the B pillar for it, but since we have 2 doors i would guess itd be alot easier to mount the solenoid to the chassis

**LowRange93** · August 31, 2006, 06:37 PM

Most handle kits include

two remotes
two poppers
two solenoids
the "brain"
mounting hardware

and are about as easy to install as a stereo-the hardest part is the solenoid mounting

The solenoid mounts inside the door and has a cable on it that pulls on the latch to open the door--if you mounted it to the chassis, it wouldnt be possible to use the kit.......the spring loaded poppers normally mount somewhere in the door jamb, usually near the corner below the latch.

If you get a decent kit such as AutoLoc--a bit pricier than other brands but I havent had/heard of any problems with their stuff--you can use the remote to operate an alarm or any other electrically run option--their remotes have at least one (depending on the kit) extra channel for just that use.

Every application is different as far as where you can squeeze the solenoid inside the door--I try for a straight pull somewhere directly below the door latch.

For a Probe I would use any Autoloc kit from 15-35 lbs (I never looked inside the Probe's doors so I dont know what size solenoids would fit--that would be something to look into) for trucks I try to use the 50 lb kit when I can fit the solenoid in the door.

sigh...the life of a minitrucker...

**soufkackicustom** · August 31, 2006, 08:02 PM

I always run 8ga wire to the solenoids and remove the locks. Iam going to start working on mine soon and will have no locks/handels inside or out

**NiN^_^NiN** · August 31, 2006, 08:15 PM

Well i found a autoloc 50lbs one with a built in alarm and 4 extra channels i think it was for $255 AUD all up after i ship it to australia and all (im sure customs will sting me aswell)

But it has a intergrated alarm so its perfect for what i want sad thing is i can't shave my doors as it can't get a engineer's certificate.

I was thinking of moulding the handle only and leaving the indent in the pannel to still open the door as i will have lambo door and add some leds hooked up to the keylock light under the handle to get a white glow at night.

Only problem is id have to mod the handle to still be workable as it will be illegal if there isn't a mechanicial way to get into the car incase of accidents and the ambulance needs to get in etc.

**UnorthodoxCreat** · August 31, 2006, 08:36 PM

You could do something like the latest Corvettes/XLRs where there is an indent in the "quarter panel" half and the door handle doesnt move but there is a button on the backside that operates the latch. I think shaving is a lot cooler but it sounds like that isnt an option for you and it wouldnt be that hard to do.

**LowRange93** · August 31, 2006, 08:42 PM

I didnt know the new kits have 4 extra channels--that is f'n sweet--mine only has one!! That sounds like a decent price---just make sure that you'll be able to mount the solenoids inside the door (50 lb'ers are pretty big and are definitely bigger than needed for a Probe--or my Ranger for that matter and thats what I'm running lol). Is that engineer's certificate like a safety inspection here in the States? If so, just find a garage that'll hook you up and slip the mechanic a couple bills...then mod away my friend....

**NiN^_^NiN** · August 31, 2006, 11:33 PM

50 lbs is the only one i can get and it actually have 4 extra channels on the remote i'm getting for anything else i need.

In australia we don't have inspections or anything we get a roadworthy check for the car if its new to you but if u never sell it you won't ever need to get another check done ever and your licence is sent out to you every 5 years i think so if u have the same car for 40 years you would never have to get any checks done.

But insurance companies can refuse to no pay you out in a car accident if the car isn't legal and our laws are very strict i have to get a engineer to look at my lambo door and make sure its up to standard then he gives me a certificate then i give it to VIC Roads (DMV) and its added onto the cars record.

It's why HID lights are illegal if you retrofit them they put in a law specifically to stop you using them unless they are stock from the factory once the cars sold to you from the factory you can't go back to them to get HID's.

**UnorthodoxCreat** · September 3, 2006, 08:37 PM

You have plenty of room for any size solenoid in a Probe. Mount it in the back bottom corner of the door and then you run the cable up to the interior handle.

**NiN^_^NiN** · September 3, 2006, 09:56 PM

Thanks for that its good to know

I'm thinking of having a small bar under the handle that u can pull which would work the same way the orignal handle would of and i'll have some small led's in there aswell just to softly light up the lil indent

It would look like this:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...ja/carside.jpg

**CrimSon_ReD** · September 4, 2006, 05:58 AM

I have the selenoid kit and was woindering where exactly do you mount the door poppers to?

**NiN^_^NiN** · September 4, 2006, 06:40 AM

Well i don't know how the probe door opens but if the leaver has to be pulled down then directly neer the bottom would be your best bet pulling the latch open on angles can wear it out faster (the solonoid and wire) according to what i've read so depending how it opens u mount it that way.

**UnorthodoxCreat** · September 4, 2006, 09:23 AM

Here is a very brief pictorial of shaving door handles on a Probe. Use my advice at your own risk.

Mount the door SOLENOID in the back bottom of the door. You want to mount it as high as possible to minimize the angle but you'll quickly see that wont be real high. It will be fine.
http://images.geekazoids.net/1solenoid.jpg

Cut out filler pieces and weld in using a lot of small tacks and taking your time so you dont warp the surrounding metal. Grind smooth being careful not to overheat it. A "flapper" wheel works nice.
http://images.geekazoids.net/2shaved.jpg

Rough up the surfaced and body fill. RAGE brand products work great. Worth the extra money. Sand smooth.
http://images.geekazoids.net/3filled.jpg

I primed everything before taking it to the guy who painted my car.
http://images.geekazoids.net/4primed.jpg

Running the electronics is up to you. I mounted the main unit in near the stock ECU and then ran wires out under the dash through the doors to each side.
http://images.geekazoids.net/5opener.jpg

Unless your paint is really nice and can be blended in by a professional you will need to repaint the whole car if you fill in the indentation behind the door which in my opinion is the only way it should be done.
http://images.geekazoids.net/6primer.jpg

Door POPPER mounted. Pretty easy to install, just remove you interior panel, drill the right size hole, and put a nut on the back. Some people have said they didnt use these but I wouldnt want to. Really helps holds the door open especially if the door is facing up hill.
http://images.geekazoids.net/7solenoid.jpg

Painted
http://images.geekazoids.net/8painted.jpg

Push the button and amaze your friends.
http://images.geekazoids.net/9dooropen.jpg

**CrimSon_ReD** · September 4, 2006, 09:57 AM

Originally posted by UnorthodoxCreat

Here is a very brief pictorial of shaving door handles on a Probe. Use my advic at your own risk.

Mount the door SOLENOID in the back bottom of the door. You want to mount it as high as possibl to minimize the angle but you'll quickly see that wont be real high. It will be fine.
http://images.geekazoids.net/1solenoid.jpg

Cut out filler pieces and weld in using a lot of small tacks and taking your time so you dont warp the surrounding metal. Grind smooth being careful not to overheat it. A "flapper" wheel works nice.
http://images.geekazoids.net/2shaved.jpg

Rough up the surfaced and body fill. RAGE brand products work great. Worth the extra money. Sand smooth.
http://images.geekazoids.net/3filled.jpg

I primed everything before taking it to the guy who painted my car.
http://images.geekazoids.net/4primed.jpg

Running the electronics is up to you. I mounted the main unit in near the stock ECU and then ran wires out under the dash through the doors to each side.
http://images.geekazoids.net/5opener.jpg

Unless your paint is really nice and can be blended in by a professional you will need to repaint the whole car if you fill in the indentation behind the door which in my opinion is the only way it should be done.
http://images.geekazoids.net/6primer.jpg

Door POPPER mounted. Pretty easy to install, just remove you interior panel, drill the right size hole, and put a nut on the back. Some people have said they didnt use these but I wouldnt want to. Really helps holds the door open especially if the door is facing up hill.
http://images.geekazoids.net/7solenoid.jpg

Painted
http://images.geekazoids.net/8painted.jpg

Push the button and amaze you friends.
http://images.geekazoids.net/9dooropen.jpg

Dude you Rock, This shit should be stickied!

:

**clgoch187** · September 4, 2006, 10:09 AM

i installed a kit from protocol on my probe in about 12 hrs, inlcuding welding and body work. it works great and looks even better.

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Door popper shaved handel kit?

Door popper shaved handel kit?

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