I think my VRIS #1 does not work, so i went out there to look at it and i started my engine and revved it and I cant see either of the VRIS's moving when i rev it up i kno i went past 4250rpm also, and I know my VRIS #2 works. The question is if I was under the hood and revved my engine would i be able to see the VRIS's open up?
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Look at VRIS#1 (passenger side) with the engine off. That's closed. Now start the engine and let it idle. VRIS#1 should now be open.
Revving the engine at part throttle opening (which is what you were probably doing) won't get the VRIS's operating. The normal opening and closing points only apply when you have wide open throttle (or very near it). If you did press the gas pedal to the floor and kept it there, VRIS#1 should then close, and open again at 3,250rpm, then close again at 6,250 rpm. But I'm not sure I would attempt this test with the car in neutral, for fear of over-revving the engine.Last edited by NickR; November 19, 2005, 11:15 AM.
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Oh, you'll see the VRIS pop open & closed, but it makes a lot of noise (with the engine rev'ing that high), and it's not particularly good for the engine...
KevinD1995 Sapphire Blue Mustang GT Convertible, 2006 Storm Red Metallic Mercedes-Benz CLK 350 Cabriolet, 2006 Dark Shadow Gray Ford F250 V10 Supercab 4x4, 2004 Perlite Gray Metallic Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic, 2002 Burgundy Pearl Suzuki XL-7 Touring, 1971 Spring Green Jeep J4000 Gladiator, 1966 Signal Flare Red Ford Fairlane, to name a few...
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easiest way, if it is not open at idle, replace the solonoid... the papper test is you put a peice of papper inbetween the actuator peg, and the peg connected to the im. then go for a ride 3200+ pull over, and see if the little peice of paper is still there. if it is. you have a prob w/ vris. if not, then your probily good. but if your throwing a code (cel will not come on when your driving), you need to replace the solonoid. if your not throwing a code there is something wrong either w/ the actuator, or a vaccum leak... hopefully it's throwing a code for ya
-Tom
and to check codes, you have an obd 1, so...
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mx6-uk/...ode.htm#code411994 Ford Probe GTH.S. CAI, H.S Headers, Resonated TP, Borla Cat-Back, MSD 6A w/ Blaster 2 Coil, PRD Plug Wires, Eibach Springs, Tokico Blues, and Pacesetter STS.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2175009/1
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yea paper test is the easiest just jam it in the actuators there's pics somewhere floating around if you dont understand what's being said
just wedge some in both cob it for a while and then go home find out they don't work and say "shit!!!" like sooo
if they don't work they're really easy to find the solenoids that is
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