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  ProbeTalk.com Forums > Tech Section > 1st Gen (89-92) All > 1st Gen (89-92) Archive

1st Gen (89-92) Archive THE place to find your basic maintenance questions asked about the 1G probe/mx-6.

 
 
January 23rd, 2004, 12:46 PM   #1
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
How to pull codes from ecu with check engine light

Instructions on receiving codes through check engine light pulses for 89-92 GT and GL
Key on Engine not running, ecu memory codes.
Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. When you're ready to start the test, ground the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. It's a red wire with a white stripe located just behind and slightly to the right of the right strut mount.

Key on Engine running
Start the engine and allow it to idle. When you're ready to start the test, ground the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. It's a red wire with a white stripe located just behind and slightly to the right of the right strut mount.

A long light flash is a flash that lasts 1-1/2 seconds. A short flash is a flash that lasts a 1/2 second. These are pretty distinguishable. The long flash represents the first digit or tens position of the two digit code. The short flash represents the second digit or ones position of the two digit code. So, if there is one long pulse followed by four short flash, that would be the number 14. If there isn't any long flash, the number is less than ten and the first digit is 0. Eight short flashes with no long flash would be a 08 code. If there is a long flash, but no short flash, the code is 10.


89-92 GT 5 speed (GL same just with fewer codes)

01 Profile Ignition Pick-Up
02 Crankshaft Position Sensor
03 Crankshaft Position Sensor #1
04 Crankshaft Position Sensor #2
05 Knock Signal
08 Vane Airflow Signal
09 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
10 Vane Air Temperature Sensor
12 Throttle Position Sensor
14 Barometric Pressure Sensor
15 EGO Sensor (Oxygen Sensor) Running Lean
16 EGR Valve Position Sensor
17 EGO Sensor (Oxygen Sensor) Running Rich
25 Pressure Regulator Control
26 Canister Purge Solenoid Valve
28 EGR Control Solenoid Valve
29 EGR Vent Solenoid Valve
34 Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve
42 Turbocharger Boost Control Solenoid Valve

With Automatic trans

01 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor
02 Crankshaft Position Sensor
03 Crankshaft Position Sensor #1
04 Crankshaft Position Sensor #2
05 Knock Signal
06 Vehicle Speed Sensor
08 Vane Air Flow Signal
09 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
10 Vane Air Temperature Sensor
12 Throttle Position Sensor
14 Barometric Pressure Switch
15 EGO Sensor (Lean)
16 EGR Valve Position Sensor
17 EGO Sensor (Rich)
25 Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid
26 Canister Purge Solenoid
28 EGR Control Solenoid
29 EGR Vent Solenoid Valve
34 Idle Speed Control Solenoid
42 Turbocharger Boost Control Solenoid Valve
55 Torque Converter Speed Sensor
60 Shift Solenoid #1
61 Shift Solenoid #2
62 Shift Solenoid #3
63 Torque Converter Clutch Control Solenoid

Hopefully i didn't miss any.

 
January 23rd, 2004, 12:47 PM   #2
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
91-92 lx 3.0l v6

11 SystemPass
12 Cannot control rpm during Self-Test high rpm check
13 Cannot control rpm during Self-Test low rpm check
14 PIP circuit failure
15 ROM test failure
15 Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failure
18 IDM circuit failure
18 SPOUT circuit open
19 Failure in ECA internal voltage
21 ECT sensor input is out of Self-Test range
22 MAP sensor input is out of Self-Test range
23 TP sensor input is out of Self-Test range
24 ACT sensor input is out of Self-Test range
25 KS sensor signal is not sensed during Dynamic Response Test
29 Insufficient input from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
31 PFE circuit is below minimum voltage
32 PFE circuit voltage low
33 EGR valve opening (PFE) not detected
34 PFE sensor voltage out of range
34 Excessive exhaust back pressure/PFE circuit voltage high
35 PFE circuit is above maximum voltage
39 AXOD lock-up failed
41 HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean
41 No HEGO switching detected
42 HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich
51 ECT sensor circuit open
52 PSPS always staying open or closed
52 PSPS circuit is open
53 TP sensor input is greater than Self-Test maximum voltage
54 ACT sensor circuit open
57 AXOD Neutral Pressure Switch (NPS) circuit failed open
59 AXOD 4/3 pressure switch circuit failed open
61 ECT sensor circuit grounded
62 AXOD 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circuit grounded
63 TP sensor input is less than Self-Test minimum voltage
64 ACT sensor circuit grounded
67 Neutral Pressure Switch (NPS) circuit closed; A/C ON
69 AXOD 3/4 pressure switch circuit failed open
72 Insufficient MAP output change during Dynamic Response Test
73 Insufficient TP output change during Dynamic Response Test
74 Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit failure - not actuated during Self-Test
77 Brief WOT not sensed during Self-Test/Operator error
83 High Speed Electro-Drive Fan (HEDF) circuit failure
84 EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) circuit failure
85 Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure
87 Fuel pump primary circuit failure
88 Electro-drive fan (EDF) circuit failure
89 Lock-Up Solenoid (LUS) circuit failure
95 Fuel pump circuit open/ECA to motor ground
96 Fuel pump circuit open/Battery to ECA
98 Hard fault is present

111 O,R,C System Pass
112 O,C ACT sensor circuit grounded
113 O,C ACT sensor circuit open
114 O,R ACT sensor input is out of Self-Test range
116 O,R ECT sensor input is out of Self-Test range
117 O,C ECT sensor circuit grounded
118 O,C ECT sensor circuit open
121 O,R,C TP sensor input is out of Self-Test range
122 O,C TP sensor input is less than Self-Test minimum voltage
123 O,C TP sensor input is greater than Self-Test maximum voltage
126 O,R,C MAP sensor input is out of Self-Test range
129 R Insufficient MAP input change during Dynamic Response Test
144 C No HEGO switching detected
167 R Insufficient TP input change during Dynamic Response Test
171 C Lack of HEGO switching, system at adaptive limits (Rear Side)
172 R,C HEGO sensor circuit indicates system always lean (Rear Side)
173 R,C HEGO sensor circuit indicates system always rich (Rear Side)
175 C Lack of HEGO switching, system at adaptive limits (Front Side)
176 C HEGO sensor circuit indicates system always lean (Front Side)
177 C HEGO sensor circuit indicates system always rich (Front Side)
179 C Fuel system at part throttle lean adaptive limit, system rich (Rear Side)
181 C Fuel system at part throttle rich adaptive limit, system lean (Rear Side)
182 C Fuel system at idle lean adaptive limit, system rich (Rear Side)
183 C Fuel system at idle rich adaptive limit, system lean (Rear Side)
188 C Fuel system at part throttle lean adaptive limit, system rich (Front Side)
189 C Fuel system at part throttle rich adaptive limit, system lean (Front Side)
191 C Fuel system at idle lean adaptive limit, system rich (Front Side)
192 C Fuel system at idle rich adaptive limit, system lean (Front Side)
211 C Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit failure
212 C Loss of tachometer/IDM input to EEC processor
213 R EEC processor spark output (SPOUT) circuit open
326 R,C PFE sensor circuit voltage lower than expected
327 O,R,C PFE sensor circuit voltage below Self-Test minimum
332 R,C Insufficient EGR flow detected
335 O PFE sensor voltage out of Self-Test range
336 R,C PFE sensor circuit voltage higher than expected
337 O,R,C PFE sensor voltage above Self-Test maximum
411 R Cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check
412 R Cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check
452 C Insufficient input from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
511 O EEC processor Read Only Memory (ROM) test failure
512 C EEC processor Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failure
513 O Failure in EEC processor internal voltage
519 O Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS) circuit open
521 R Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS) circuit did not change states
525 O Vehicle was either in gear or AC was on during Self-Test
528 C Clutch Engage Switch circuit failure
538 R Insufficient RPM change during KOER Dynamic Response Test
542 O,C Fuel pump circuit open - EEC processor to motor ground
543 O,C Fuel pump circuit open - Battery to EEC processor
556 O,C Fuel pump circuit failure
558 O Electronic Vacuum Regulator (EVR) circuit failure
563 O High Speed Electro-Drive Fan (HEDF) circuit failure
564 O Electro-Drive Fan (EDF) circuit failure
565 O Canister Purge circuit failure

 
January 23rd, 2004, 12:48 PM   #3
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
Key:

O =Key On Engine Off

R =Key On Engine Running

C =Continuous Memor

Instructions for 3.0l v6

Analog Voltmeter

If you don't have an engine code scanner, you can perform the same test with a standard analog voltmeter. Set the meter to read between 0 and 15 volts. Connect the positive wire of the voltmeter to the positive battery terminal and the negative wire to the Self-Test Output wire on the diagnostic test connector. See Image below for wire location.



Key On Engine Off Self Test: Start the engine and run intil it reaches the normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds, then turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. When you're ready to start the test, connect a jumper wire between the Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return wire on the diagnostic test connector. The STI wire is a white wire with a red stripe located just behind and slightly to the right of the right strut mount.



Key On Engine Running Self Test: Start the engine and run intil it reaches the normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds, then restart the engine and allow it to idle. When you're ready to start the test, connect a jumper wire between the Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return wire on the diagnostic test connector. The STI wire is a white wire with a red stripe located just behind and slightly to the right of the right strut mount.



The voltmeter will display a pulse for 3 seconds when the test is first started. Engine codes will appear on the display as a swipe. See below for how to interpret the swipes.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MIL Light

If you don't have an engine code scanner, the easiest way to check for error codes is by using the MIL light (the 'Check Engine' light on the instrument cluster).



Key On Engine Off Self Test: Start the engine and run intil it reaches the normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds, then turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. When you're ready to start the test, connect a jumper wire between the Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return wire on the diagnostic test connector. The STI wire is a white wire with a red stripe located just behind and slightly to the right of the left strut mount.



Key On Engine Running Self Test: Start the engine and run intil it reaches the normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds, then restart the engine and allow it to idle. When you're ready to start the test, connect a jumper wire between the Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return wire on the diagnostic test connector. The STI wire is a white wire with a red stripe located just behind and slightly to the right of the left strut mount.



The MIL light will go out after a second then will flash the engine error codes, if any. See below for how to interpret the flashes.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------Interpreting The Swipes/Flashes

The pulses on the volt-ohmmeter and the flashes on the MIL light translate into two or three digit codes. To simplify things, we'll call all flashes and swipes, flashes. Each set of flashes represent a number. Two flashes would be the number 2, eight flashes would be the number 8. On a 1991 or 1992 Probe V-6, there will be three digits. Each of the three digits will be separated by a short pause. The number 332 would be 3 flashes, a pause, 3 flashes, a pause, 2 flashes. The number 064 would be 6 flashes, a pause, 4 flashes. A longer pause will separate each code if there's more than one. 1990 Probe V-6s have a two digit code, instead of a three digit code.



Continuous Memory Codes are codes that appear while normal running and are stored by the computer for a period of time. During the Key On Engine Off Self Test, after all the codes are displayed, there will be a six second pause, a single flash, followed by another six second pause. Any Continuous Memory Codes will then be displayed in the same fashion as the regular codes. Continuous Memory Codes will only display once, before being erased, so make sure you're ready for them.



If there are no problems found, the 1990 Probe V-6 will display code 11 and the 1991 and 1992 Probe V-6 will display code 111. DO NOT clear the ECA memory by disconnecting the negative battery cable. This will clear the Keep Alive Memory.
 
January 23rd, 2004, 01:00 PM   #4
pringlesaregood
Donating Member
 
 
: Mar 2002
: Durham, NC
: 39
: 1,169
Great post....do I hear sticky?
__________________
Chris DiMarco
NNJ?! -> NCPOC
 
January 23rd, 2004, 01:06 PM   #5
anomaly
Official Pr0n Approver!
 
 
: Jun 2001
: 80s NYC
: 15,057
:wow:

Yes, this will now become a sticky for a while.

May this help all!
__________________
Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.


~

=

&

~


"Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

Enjoy PT?

 
January 23rd, 2004, 01:17 PM   #6
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
Also i made my own custom grounding wire for checking codes, easy to ground to strut mount nut,
Check it out here
If you want to know how i made it pm me.
 
March 28th, 2004, 03:41 PM   #7
ricks89gl
Juiced Member
 
: May 2003
: 829
Re: How to pull codes from ecu with check engine light

With my GL, which I did the GTX swap on, N/A tranny used instead of GT.

Motor off I pulled 5 short blinks, 1 long blink, and 6 short blinks. It's the same thing with the motor running.

I take it these are....

01 Profile Ignition Pick-Up
05 Knock Signal
06 Vehicle Speed Sensor

I guess the Vehicle speed sensor is because I used the N/A speedo cable?

I'm lost.
__________________
Rick
1989 Ford Probe GL
1989 Ford Probe GL, modified. F2T swap, ATX to MTX swap. Boosting 12 PSI with a F2 transmission.
 
March 28th, 2004, 08:51 PM   #8
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
Re: How to pull codes from ecu with check engine light

If you got 1 long blink and then 6 short quick blinks, that would be code 16 which is egr valve deal.
And just 5 blinks by it self is the knocksensor.
Try a engine running check engine code check.
Hopefully one of these wil go away during the engine run test, so you should be alright.
 
March 29th, 2004, 03:33 AM   #9
ricks89gl
Juiced Member
 
: May 2003
: 829
Re: How to pull codes from ecu with check engine light

Well we cut the egr hose that went from the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold and welded the ends shut. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but there is a black canister under my fuel injection with a broken nipple. I ran the codes with it running and it did the same thing.

How do I check the knock sensor?
__________________
Rick
1989 Ford Probe GL
1989 Ford Probe GL, modified. F2T swap, ATX to MTX swap. Boosting 12 PSI with a F2 transmission.
 
March 29th, 2004, 12:26 PM   #10
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
Re: How to pull codes from ecu with check engine light

Usually you just replace with a knock sensor that you know is good, and the code should go away.check to see if its plugged in.
 
April 1st, 2004, 03:27 PM   #11
Lanhead
Guest
 
: Mar 2004
: Sweden
: 25
Re: How to pull codes from ecu with check engine light

How can I get a hold of an STI selftester??
 
April 1st, 2004, 03:44 PM   #12
evhgame
Supercharged Member
 
: Oct 2003
: San Bernardino
: 40
: 1,233
Re: How to pull codes from ecu with check engine light

Read the instructions above..You dont need a special device to pull codes.
__________________
1990 PGL

Custom 2 1/4 Catback, Standard Cone Intake, Polished Valve Cover, More to Come!
 
April 2nd, 2004, 07:22 AM   #13
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
Re: How to pull codes from ecu with check engine light

No special equipment needed.
 
April 27th, 2004, 04:01 AM   #14
Corvander
Supercharged Member
 
: Aug 2002
: in limp mode in PA
: 34
: 1,342
:
Also i made my own custom grounding wire for checking codes, easy to ground to strut mount nut,
Check it out here
If you want to know how i made it pm me.
don't work..
__________________
1990 Probe LX MTX sold
90 Probe GT 89 GT front bumper 89 A pillar Intrax suspension Tenzo interior short shifter Autometer phantom gauges Infinity components greddy engine management South Bend stage III Turbo XS K/N full 2.5 exhaust MAZDA Racing more...
94probeGT to much to list


 
April 27th, 2004, 05:50 AM   #15
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
Fixed
 
June 7th, 2004, 06:53 PM   #16
WhiteTurboG
Donating Member
 
 
: Jul 2001
: Post Falls, Idaho
: 47
: 971
Flapoc---

You seem well informed on this one! Great info. I could never find that many codes until I got the Factory Dealer service manual.

Curious though, mine gave a code 18. I could not find it in any manuals. Do you by chance know what it is?
__________________
1989 PGT Turbo New Head, Injen intake, Intrax 1.75" drop on 18" Alba Catch with Nitto 21535ZR18
Strut Bar, Dawes Device 12PSI
Tokico Blues, Energy Endlinks
90 GT grounds swap
MECP Certified First Class Installer
 
June 7th, 2004, 10:14 PM   #17
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
There is no code 18, you probably mis-counted, check the code again and have someone else count the flashes.
 
June 7th, 2004, 10:16 PM   #18
WhiteTurboG
Donating Member
 
 
: Jul 2001
: Post Falls, Idaho
: 47
: 971
Okee-dokee. Thanks for the info!
__________________
1989 PGT Turbo New Head, Injen intake, Intrax 1.75" drop on 18" Alba Catch with Nitto 21535ZR18
Strut Bar, Dawes Device 12PSI
Tokico Blues, Energy Endlinks
90 GT grounds swap
MECP Certified First Class Installer
 
June 14th, 2004, 08:53 PM   #19
1989PGT
Guest
 
: Jun 2004
: texas
: 5
need help on engine codes

ok i know what codes i have and what they are, i have 5, 8, 9, 10, 16, 34, 42 now how do i fix these problems? well the wire broke off the idle air speed control valve so thats 10 but dose it need the idle air speed control valve to run right? i mean two injectors arent working right, the two in the middle 2 and 3, it runs but it runs bad, it wont stay on and it sounds like is miss firing i know the injectors are good, can it be the wireharness or the computer? need help lost.
 
June 15th, 2004, 08:35 AM   #20
evhgame
Supercharged Member
 
: Oct 2003
: San Bernardino
: 40
: 1,233
:
ok i know what codes i have and what they are, i have 5, 8, 9, 10, 16, 34, 42 now how do i fix these problems? well the wire broke off the idle air speed control valve so thats 10 but dose it need the idle air speed control valve to run right? i mean two injectors arent working right, the two in the middle 2 and 3, it runs but it runs bad, it wont stay on and it sounds like is miss firing i know the injectors are good, can it be the wireharness or the computer? need help lost.
The Probe is mainly ran off of sensors and the ECU. Without any output of signals to the ECU, the car will not run correctly. U need to go to a junkyard and replace the broken wire. As for the injectors, check the electrical connection to each injector. If thats good, either they are plain bad or clogged. Sounds like u got some work to do. Good luck!
__________________
1990 PGL

Custom 2 1/4 Catback, Standard Cone Intake, Polished Valve Cover, More to Come!
 
June 15th, 2004, 09:06 AM   #21
1989PGT
Guest
 
: Jun 2004
: texas
: 5
need help

i checked the wires on the injectors they work, they got voltage, but are both wires supposed to have 12 volts?? and it aint the injectors cuz i switched them with the other two and it works the same. can it be the wire harness or the computer? can it also be machanical cuz i just rebuild the engine, the timing is correct, its got spark the compression is at 120 psi. the valves open its just those two cylinders that dont work i disconnect the injectors too those two cylinders and it runs the same i unmplugg the other two and it chokes and dies i have no clue whats up with it, i checked the wire harness and its fine. can it be the computer??? im lost need help.
 
June 15th, 2004, 12:45 PM   #22
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
The engine won't run worth anything if you don't solve some of these codes 5, 8, 9, 10, 16, 34, 42
As told by some of these codes your getting, sounds like you either don't have good connection with the plug on the VAF meter, or your VAF meter is bad.
If you need any more help post up a new thread, and we will try to help you in that thread.
 
June 20th, 2004, 11:36 AM   #23
1989PGT
Guest
 
: Jun 2004
: texas
: 5
need help

:
The engine won't run worth anything if you don't solve some of these codes 5, 8, 9, 10, 16, 34, 42
As told by some of these codes your getting, sounds like you either don't have good connection with the plug on the VAF meter, or your VAF meter is bad.
If you need any more help post up a new thread, and we will try to help you in that thread.
ok i fixed all the codes exept for 5,16,and 42 and its till running on 2 cylinders, it stays on but it runs real rough on two cylinders im lost, ive heard it could be a vacuum leak? and what im thinking aswell can it be the valve stem seals?? could of the machine shop forget to put them in? or not put them on right?? cuz alot of air comes out the breather and alot of oil is coming out of the exhaust holes ? could some of the air be getting past the seals and only the ones on the two middle cylinders?? let me know what u think ? cuz im lost at whats wrong
 
June 30th, 2004, 09:32 PM   #24
FLAPOC-Pres
Guest
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Tampa, Florida FLAPOC Owns
: 8,376
If alot of blow by is going on then you are probably needing new piston rings.
Leaking valve stem seals will just cause oil to leak into the combustion chamber and then you will be burning oil, blue smoke out the tailpipe effect.
 
July 1st, 2004, 04:21 PM   #25
1989PGT
Guest
 
: Jun 2004
: texas
: 5
:
If alot of blow by is going on then you are probably needing new piston rings.
Leaking valve stem seals will just cause oil to leak into the combustion chamber and then you will be burning oil, blue smoke out the tailpipe effect.
its all good now i found the problem its running great and im hauling ass thanks for everything
 
 

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