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Rubber around windows?

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  • #16
    I covered one of mine with fiberglass resin and sanded it out. taped it up and shot some gloss black rattle can on it. It still looks good. But my car isnt painted, so that probally made it a lot easier.
    MMX BEST ROLLIN WERCK
    1991 accord wagon..20's, ear bleeding system..storm trooper style /08 CRV black/tan sunroof...stock /1965 thunderbird landau/

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    • #17
      I was going to sand mine down to the chrome, prime it and rattle can it either satin or gloss black. But not sure which would look correct for an OEM look. Maybe semi-gloss?
      redeemed
      IndyProbes founder

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      • #18
        On my last probe I took fiberglass resin to it..sand smooth and paint.
        please update your email address

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        • #19
          I have to stop at a body shop today so i will ask if maybe they have dealt with something like this before, or if they have an input on it....prolly there just gonna say replace the whole window...but maybe they might have some info...its worth asking...

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          • #20
            I dont think there's any chrome on the 2G 6'ers - not sure about the PGT's. I know mine seems to be solid plastic/type material. I might try sanding it with fine grit paper to see what happens. Cant be any worse then it already is.
            'Those who dont hear the music, think the dancer is mad...'
            http://www.supermotors.org/registry/...il.php?id=6166

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            • #21
              ive heard wiping it with kerosene wil smooth it and turn it black again. just gotta find a junk car to try this on first
              93 pgt= yard ornament

              proud owner since 1999

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              • #22
                Originally posted by probesport_gt
                Replacing it is out of the question as its attached to the glass itself.
                Yeah, the quarter glass is bonded to the trim and that makes it very expensive. I've seen them go for about $1200 (with the Probe logo) and even my cost is expensive (I work for an autoglass company) best bet is to do what I was thinking. Put glass coverage on your Probe and either pull the window out (if you push hard the quarter glass tends to fall out of the Probes if your's hasn't fallen out on its own) and break them outside the car so you don't make a mess, or just break them in the car and tell insurance it was a break in. (not the most honest of ways but you'll get new quarters w/trim)
                93 PGT - Installed: CAI, VIS CF Invader hood, OBX headers, Res. T.P., Borla Catback, Civic STS, Brembo X-drilled/slotted disks w/PBR ceramic, '01 626 rear sway bar, MX3 Flywheel, Enkei TBS11s w/Kumho Ecsta SPT's, F & R strut ties, 96+ Tails.
                MMX Winner: Best in Class Show Room

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by rajamit420
                  ive heard wiping it with kerosene wil smooth it and turn it black again. just gotta find a junk car to try this on first
                  Until you throw a ciggerette out...heh

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Staats
                    Yeah, the quarter glass is bonded to the trim and that makes it very expensive. I've seen them go for about $1200 (with the Probe logo) and even my cost is expensive (I work for an autoglass company) best bet is to do what I was thinking. Put glass coverage on your Probe and either pull the window out (if you push hard the quarter glass tends to fall out of the Probes if your's hasn't fallen out on its own) and break them outside the car so you don't make a mess, or just break them in the car and tell insurance it was a break in. (not the most honest of ways but you'll get new quarters w/trim)
                    Actually, they're $750.00 per side with or without logo. Still expensive for a damn piece of glass!
                    "Soon, it occurred to me that there were two races going on...
                    one for those who'd brought the right tools and one for those who were tools."

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                    • #25
                      at a few of the junk yards near me, there are some probes with good molding on them....maybe you could check around by you, and just switch...dunno if thats a good or bad idea though..but its a thought...

                      Also, we are discussing the rear windows, but how about the stuff on the outside of the car where the front windows are, mine is shot there, and thats even worse cause there are like flakes of rust coming out from behind them....is that expensive to replace as well?

                      I just actually found this stuff called back to black at the car wash, its for tires and rubebr trim. I bought and tryed it, in my opinion its more trouble then its worth, its a sponge soaked in an extremely greasy silicon type substance, and you put it on, and basically it just runs down the side of your car and makes everything nasty and greasy. I mean sure it makes the trim look black, and maybe a little better, but it basically looks like destroyed shiny rubber thats to shiny.

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                      • #26
                        A friend of mine uses truckbed liner to hand paint onto his trim. Everytime I see his car, I forget to look at it. I will see if I can get pics.
                        '08 Cadillac CTS 3.6DI FE3 MTX
                        '07 Lexus IS350

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                        • #27
                          I know there is metal under the rubber on the door window pieces on the pgt. Ive sanded those ones down with great results (just sanded the bad rubber off not all the way to the metal). My brother-in-law filled and painted the ones on thier old 240SX from what I remebered it looked really good, I'll have to find out what he used to fill them.
                          93 gt
                          95 tbird sc
                          2010 focus ses

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Tim95pgt
                            A friend of mine uses truckbed liner to hand paint onto his trim. Everytime I see his car, I forget to look at it. I will see if I can get pics.
                            ..That would be kinda rough looking though, dont you think. Truck bed liners are not smooth!
                            'Those who dont hear the music, think the dancer is mad...'
                            http://www.supermotors.org/registry/...il.php?id=6166

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by MidnightPr0be
                              Also, we are discussing the rear windows, but how about the stuff on the outside of the car where the front windows are, mine is shot there, and thats even worse cause there are like flakes of rust coming out from behind them....is that expensive to replace as well?
                              If you're talking about the windshield, then it's just a universal push in/glue in "flex molding" you can use, the old windshield molding will pull off from the bottom if you remove the wipers and cowl pan. But the rust is coming from behind the windshield and will eventually stress crack the window when it bubbles up and puts pressure on it.
                              93 PGT - Installed: CAI, VIS CF Invader hood, OBX headers, Res. T.P., Borla Catback, Civic STS, Brembo X-drilled/slotted disks w/PBR ceramic, '01 626 rear sway bar, MX3 Flywheel, Enkei TBS11s w/Kumho Ecsta SPT's, F & R strut ties, 96+ Tails.
                              MMX Winner: Best in Class Show Room

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Staats
                                If you're talking about the windshield, then it's just a universal push in/glue in "flex molding" you can use, the old windshield molding will pull off from the bottom if you remove the wipers and cowl pan. But the rust is coming from behind the windshield and will eventually stress crack the window when it bubbles up and puts pressure on it.

                                no not the windsheild, the front passanger and driver windows, the rubber above those.

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