The Ultimate Transmission Thread... Brainstorm Ideas Here!

[FuLcRuM]

Nitriding could be done to the shafts as well, if they are steel, but if the deflection is coming from the case flex, it might be excessive to do the shafts. Also, I dont know enough about the shaft material, so I cant say for sure it would be applicable.

Is there any rough threshold that the gears seem to break at? I know that driving style, clutch type, etc, all affect the condition of the gears, but Im wondering if say all of the 3rd gear ripping is like over 300 lb/ft.

Personally I have broken 3rd twice, right now I keep the boost at 5lbs (roughly 220HP) and it's lasted for over a year, when I up the boost to 12lbs (estimating between 280-300hp but no dyno) it took about 6 months to loose 3rd.

I don't think treating the gears is gonna do it, the problem is really the case and the flexing of the shafts. The gears themselvs are probably stong enough to handle over 300HP if they stayed in full contact. Those who have put in strait cut gears are able to handle more power cause it eliminates the side loading of the shaft (shoving it through the end of the case), this side loading also adds to the shaft flexing buy loosening the bearings allowing more play. It also causes the bearing races to spin in the end of the case causing additional heat and sloppyness.

The "fix" is already out there, you just have to cough up the 4k+ for new gears and call it a day. This is assuming you address the weak diff as well, but there are several options there as well.

Having someone weld in some additional bracing into the case may help and is probably a really good idea, but that alone isn't gonna be enough. Now maybe if someone were to remake the case out of billit aluminium or maybe even steel to eliminate the flexing, the stock gears and shafts might hold up to over 300hp. I bet that would be even more then the strait cut gears though.

[kelderman94]

This is what I don't understand. When I cracked my case, they put on a new one, not from a junkyard. Can't they just make a mold of our case and make it out of a stronger material (steel,etc)?

It seems so easy, but maybe I'm missing the complexity of the process.

[short4stuff]

This is what I don't understand. When I cracked my case, they put on a new one, not from a junkyard. Can't they just make a mold of our case and make it out of a stronger material (steel,etc)?

It seems so easy, but maybe I'm missing the complexity of the process.

Ya its called price, and demand.

[dillinr]

This is what I don't understand. When I cracked my case, they put on a new one, not from a junkyard. Can't they just make a mold of our case and make it out of a stronger material (steel,etc)?

It seems so easy, but maybe I'm missing the complexity of the process.

It IS a complex process. First you have to make a mold of the case with plaster, then you have to make a casting of that mold of say plastic, or some cheap metal, which then you can use to make a sand molding, which THEN you can fill with molten metal of your choice. Hope ya got a big furnace.

After which you can machine all the spots on the case where bolts go in/through, where the case meets the engine, ect ect. Of course this will likely require a multi axis, multi thousand...million? dollar machine.

Yes. It is complex.

[Domino81]

Where are you gonna get one?

I'm not saying I have one or I know where to get one, but it's an idea. That's all. Considering all possibilities.

[RoadRage]

Ok this is my Idea please pick it appart and correct anything I may suggest that is a bit off.

1. We need to tie the two shafts together with a floating connecting rod that is circliped on each side on each shaft. this should hold them at equal distance and keep them from separating thus pushing apart and through the case.

They could be bushed with bronzoil and I doubt there would be any excessive wear and you wouldn't have to "pump" or "feed" oil to them to prevent wear. The shafts would have to be turned and "grooved" on a lathe but that wouldn't in it self be that expensive. Materials would be to a minimum and it won't effect performance.

That alone isnt going to be enough.

2. I agree that welding reinforcement would be necessary and possibly gusseting the interior of the case. I haven't actually taken one apart so this is all speculation and has been touched before in this thread.


This would be so much easier if I had solidworks or some other cad software..

[JKpgt96]

The inside is pretty packed with tranny guts, just fyi..pretty tight in there

Finding a place for the connecting rod would be hard as well, but it is getting at one of the problems we have.

[FuLcRuM]

I've thought something similar but there just isn't room in there, we would have to remove a gear or something to make room.
You could put something outside the case just after 5th but I doubt that would do enough to prevent flex. Might help some

[dillinr]

Excellent idea, possibly one of the more creative ones in this thread...unfortunately the space availability becomes an issue...excellent idea though!

Ryan

[RoadRage]

Who says the end of the case where 5th is has to stay stock? hack that mofo out of there, have a billet aluminum piece welded to the case then have it machined to accept the shafts and a smaller bearing and tie the ends of the shafts together or better yet have a hardened steel insert put in to keep the bearings and shafts aligned properly and bolt that to the piece of billit aluminium that is now keeping everything nice and tight.

I just bought a MsLSD and MS3rd and MS5th gears so im gonna have to go in, I will know more then. If you were building a transmission for just drag racing then you really dont need 5th gear anyway.

[JKpgt96]

Can the shafts be made of something slightly stiffer?

I like the idea of messing with the end of the case, but getting that perfectly aligned would be critical so the gears and bearings and such all set flush on the end like they are supposed to..

[FuLcRuM]

There is someone is Austrailia who made a steel reinforcment plate that you welded into the end of your case after doing some machining.
If you have access to a machine shop it might be worth a shot, otherwise it might be pretty pricey.

[dillinr]

Fulcrum...any pics, links or more info on that plate??

Ryan

[FuLcRuM]

Yeah, figured someone would ask but I posted that from work and didn't have the links.

This guy's site has a ton of good info, alot of it is for the 4wd GTX's but since they are still G series boxes they have all of the same problems only magnified by the addition of the 4wd stuff. It's only informational so it shouldn't go against any of the PT rules.

http://users.tpg.com.au/tgrandja/index1.htm

Here is the plate article I mentioned in my last post.
http://users.tpg.com.au/tgrandja/ima...x_solution.htm

**edit** this isn't the weld in one I mentioned but is very similar, I was lurking around the AUS forums and that must be where I found the weld in one but I can't find a link. **edit**

[dillinr]

Good stuff on that website!! I like the four spider differential conversion:
http://users.tpg.com.au/tgrandja/index1.htm

Not sure I would want to attempt it, but that is some serious thought and looks like some pretty good work.

The idea of a new endplate sounds quite promising as well....should some enterprising individual care to draw up proper plans and take the time to try it themselves, they could likely sell the plates with proper instruction to have them installed...could help a lot of people in their quest for reliable power

Ryan