Engine Build/Rebuild. Let's work together.

[tkturbo]

PISTONS AND RODS

I USED TO SELL STROKER AND BIG BORE KITS BUT NO LONGER DO MUCH WITH THE FL ENGINE. HERE ARE THE PISTONS AND RODS AVAILABLE FROM SHELF STOCK--JE PISTONS AND EAGLE CHROME-MOLY H-BEAM RODS. THE RODS ARE 55 GRANS LIGHTER THAN STOCK, AND THE PISTONS ARE 20-30 GRAMS LESS. I HAVE DOZENS OF CUSTOMERS WITH SIMILAR SETS AND THEY COST A LOT LESS THAN THE 5140 MILLENIA RODS OR PROBE INDUSTRIES KITS. YOU CAN GET THEM IN LESS THAN A WEEK. THE CRANK SHOULD NEVER BE KNIFE-EDGED ON A V6, AS THE COUNTER WEIGHTS ARE NEEDED TO ABSORB FREQUENCIES AND OFFER THE NEEDED BALANCE WEIGHT. AFTER ANY CUT OF THE CRANK OVER .020" THE CRANK SHOULD BE HARDENED AGAIN. BALANCE BOB WEIGHTS ARE AT 50%, AND THE SMALLER 1.77" JOURNALS ELIMINATE THE OILING PROBLEMS THAT #5 & #6 RODS ALWAYS HAVE AT 7500 RPM OR HIGHER. SHIM THE OIL PUMP BY-PASS .250" FOR AN EXTRA 15 PSI OIL PRESSURE. SET THE RING GAPS TO .018" ON THE TOP RING AND .022" FOR THE SECOND RING FOR BLOWN APPLICATIONS. THE 2745CC STROKER IS THE BEST IN MY OPINION. IT WILL BE 8.5:1 COMPRESSION WITH STOCK STEEL HEAD GASKETS (USE ONLY THE MAZDA GASKETS FOR BLOWN APPLICATIONS)


PISTONS--JE FORGED PISTONS--6 REQUIRED
P/N 185918 1.181 COMP HEIGHT. -11.9 DISH 85MM (.020" OVERBORE) .826 PINS

RODS--EAGLE H-BEAM LIGHT 565 GRAMS .826 PIN 5.394 C-C
P/N CRS 5394A3D 1.771 CRANK PIN STOCK 2.92 STROKE 2520CC

STROKER RODS--EAGLE H-BEAM ULTRA LIGHT 525 GRAMS .826" PINS
P/N CRS 5290H3D 5.290 C-C (2745CC STROKER) WITH 3.12 STROKE

CRANK MUST BE GROUND TO 1.770, AND RE-NITRIDED AND BALANCED. THE BIG END WIDTH MUST BE NARROWED TO .850", AND USE APPROPRIATE HONDA/ACURA ROD BEARING. MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE WAY TO MAKE A KILLER ENGINE.

[cyborgzero]

The JE motor IIRC is the 3.0 in the MPV vans...

Hrm...

boring .020 over isn't all that big of a deal, and it would yield some higher compression for the NA crowd with a simple bore and swap.

Man, that sounds like a GREAT combination.. Lower reciprocating weight, increased bore, increased compression, increased displacement (slightly), stronger rods (eagle H-beams) and better rod bearings..

The only drawback is that the crank needs to be modified and reduced to a 1.77 inch diameter to accept the rods.. There aren't many shops with an centerless grinder that I would trust to such a thing.

The GOOD thing about that is that the crank will now accept a myriad of Honda/Acura rods and rod bearings, which are everywhere.

It makes sense that would solve the oiling problem, since less oil is needed for a smaller diameter bearing.

Rob

[tkturbo]

OVERBORE SIZES

I DID A LOT OF RESEARCH AS TO HOW FAR THE KL CAN SAFELY BE BORED. .060 IS GREAT AS THE SLEEVE WALLS ARE STILL THICK AND SOME OF THE MAZDA HEAD GASKETS HAVE A .060 OVERBORE HOLE IN THEM ALREADY. THE SEALING RING ALLOWS A .060" BORE (3.39"). I ALSO HAVE GONE .100, AND .125, BUT COPPER HEAD GASKETS AND O-RINGING THE HEADS ARE A MUST. I BUILT A 3.2 STROKER BY BORING THE SLEEVES COMPLETELY OUT AND RUNNING .125 THICK 3.5O" SLEEVES BORED TO 3.54. DUCTILE SLEEVES ARE $100-$150 EACH INSTALLED, AND THE SHOP BETTER KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING TO SHRINK THEM IN. I WELDED UP A CRANK WITH A 3.33 STROKE AND 1.88" JOURNALS. WITH TWIN T3T04E 54 TRIM TURBOS AT 28.5 PSI BOOST I MADE 780 FLYWHEEL HP ON THE ENGINE DYNO. 1MM OVERSIZE VALVES ON THE INTAKE AND 1.5MM OVERSIZE ON THE EXHAUST WITH A SIMPLE FLOW-BENCH PORTING WAS ALL THESE HEADS NEEDED. TWIN STOCK 60MM THROTTLE BODIES SUPPLIED THE MODIFIED ZE INTAKE WITH PLENTY OF AIR. THE OIL HOLES WERE BORED OUT A LOT ON THE CRANK (crank work was done by chrome-a-crank)
THE TRANS NEVER LASTED OVER 60 FT. I GOT AN OFFER I COULD NOT REFUSE AND SOLD THE ENGINE
RAFI (RR RACING) HAS A SET OF .060 PISTONS IN HIS CAR FROM WHEN I USED TO SUPPLY THEM. HIS ENGINE IS BASICALLY A 2620 CC ENGINE. THE 2745CC STROKER IS STILL THE BEST WAY TO GO IN MY OPINION. THE EXTRA .200 STROKE GIVE A NOTICABLE LOW END TORQUE INCREASE.

[Mike Baxter]

Re: OVERBORE SIZES

Originally posted by tkturbo
I DID A LOT OF RESEARCH AS TO HOW FAR THE KL CAN SAFELY BE BORED. .060 IS GREAT AS THE SLEEVE WALLS ARE STILL THICK AND SOME OF THE MAZDA HEAD GASKETS HAVE A .060 OVERBORE HOLE IN THEM ALREADY. THE SEALING RING ALLOWS A .060" BORE (3.39"). I ALSO HAVE GONE .100, AND .125, BUT COPPER HEAD GASKETS AND O-RINGING THE HEADS ARE A MUST. I BUILT A 3.2 STROKER BY BORING THE SLEEVES COMPLETELY OUT AND RUNNING .125 THICK 3.5O" SLEEVES BORED TO 3.54. DUCTILE SLEEVES ARE $100-$150 EACH INSTALLED, AND THE SHOP BETTER KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING TO SHRINK THEM IN. I WELDED UP A CRANK WITH A 3.33 STROKE AND 1.88" JOURNALS. WITH TWIN T3T04E 54 TRIM TURBOS AT 28.5 PSI BOOST I MADE 780 FLYWHEEL HP ON THE ENGINE DYNO. 1MM OVERSIZE VALVES ON THE INTAKE AND 1.5MM OVERSIZE ON THE EXHAUST WITH A SIMPLE FLOW-BENCH PORTING WAS ALL THESE HEADS NEEDED. TWIN STOCK 60MM THROTTLE BODIES SUPPLIED THE MODIFIED ZE INTAKE WITH PLENTY OF AIR. THE OIL HOLES WERE BORED OUT A LOT ON THE CRANK (crank work was done by chrome-a-crank)
THE TRANS NEVER LASTED OVER 60 FT. I GOT AN OFFER I COULD NOT REFUSE AND SOLD THE ENGINE
RAFI (RR RACING) HAS A SET OF .060 PISTONS IN HIS CAR FROM WHEN I USED TO SUPPLY THEM. HIS ENGINE IS BASICALLY A 2620 CC ENGINE. THE 2745CC STROKER IS STILL THE BEST WAY TO GO IN MY OPINION. THE EXTRA .200 STROKE GIVE A NOTICABLE LOW END TORQUE INCREASE.

Sooooooooo, how about building another Name your price

[Jeff L]

Yes, but PLEASE!!!!!!! remove the caps lock. It's hard as hell to read your posts.

[Dan [Sac]]

Re: PISTONS AND RODS

Originally posted by tkturbo
SHIM THE OIL PUMP BY-PASS .250" FOR AN EXTRA 15 PSI OIL PRESSURE.

A 5.25mm shim would give way more than a 15psi increase in oil pressure. My 3mm shim is boosting pressure by an average of 17-25 psi through the rev range.

Originally posted by Cyborgzero
As far as only 10% gain, well, that is what I figured would be the best you could get.. BTW, was that with ZE heads or DE? Be specific.

DE heads, intake runners ported square to match the ZE IM. I think there are some pics on my cardomain site (see sig).

[Jarod7920]

Re: Re: PISTONS AND RODS

Originally posted by Dan [Sac]
A 5.25mm shim would give way more than a 15psi increase in oil pressure. My 3mm shim is boosting pressure by an average of 17-25 psi through the rev range.

Where do you get the shim and where do you put it?

[elder GT]

There's an excellent write-up in the tech section archives. Check it out.

[fearless racing-probe]

well i just set here and read this hole thread and i have to say that my head hurts a little and that it has to be one of the best posts i have ever read. to everyone providing info.

[Bufalo]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Promise:

Originally posted by cyborgzero
Yeah, but the insane mail service opened it and took the retainers out.. I guess they thought they were a key component in my doomsday device..

Little do they know I shipped those parts via UPS.

Its okay though, cause now I have measurements.

I've been reading this whole thread again, and just got to thinking: The measurements you have are for standard KL heads, and the retainer I sent was for a KL31 (ZE) head. I'm not sure if they're bigger on that motor to go along with the bigger HLA's?

[KaedenKy]

if you take a look at the thread for titanium retainers in the bulk buy section he says they are slightly larger.

[Bufalo]

Hrmm.... the Bulk-Buys forum. Yeah, I always forget we have one of those.

[KeithnMikkii]

Basics

I have been told that to make the most HP you have to get back to the basics and work on the raw power. The best way i can see to do that is to get the stroker kit. The reasons that i have seen that people dont want this because the integrity of the crank is among the best that has ever been produced. I would like to know how much and maby through whome we could have this done. Not sure but i think that the crank is the reason that we have such good tourqe in the upper RPM range and for the HP throughout the powerband. If the working of the crank while keeping the perfect balance were done then there is nothing to say that it wouldn't work with the 3.3 stoker kit all the way up to the 7500 RPM with other comparable internals.
I for one would love a 3.3 to run over 330 HP with NA.

Thoughts and ideas pls

Best thread buy far

[KaedenKy]

For pure power....yes a stroked, rwd, twin turbo probe...with a custom programmed stand alone would be best.

Simply things like tkt suggested are way beyond most peoples budget. I think that needs to be clear.

The stroke increase he suggests is only .2 liters....honestly custom rods plus the crank work isnt worth my effort definately.

For an n/a build this may be the only way for you to make true power, but looking at what interprep hit with a mostly stock bottom end...i believe someone could hit 220 whp with a slightly outlandish 11.5:1 compression build.....


As for the the stroking.....stoking isnt going to hit us to 330 stoke really is going to increase the torque and maybe widen the band a bit, the then to hit the 3.3 liters or so you would need a serious overbore and resleve again adding signifigantly to the cost.

I would love to see someone do it though, but if i was going to blow money on a stoker engine it would be a 427 or bigger on a small motor especially dohc im going to rev the living hell out of it.

Id like to see someone take the probe to a 11000 rpm redline then see what we get Basically a motor cycle then

[KeithnMikkii]

This is what i was saying is i pheasable to keep the integrety of the crank, and its charecterisics the let us rev it so efficiantly. If a Engine is stroked so that we still may take it up to that 11000 rev mark. If i am way off the mark. What is it in our KL engine that lets it rev so high, the crank has a big part to play with it no?