No Spark - No CrankPosSensor in TS til I MAKE it register..

[ihone]

Before I get jumped - Yes - I used the search function. I couldn't see anything out of the 10 pages worth of threads I looked through.

Here's the dilly. No spark. Replaced Disty w/ Refurb unit. Still no spark. Connect Tunerstudio (running MS2 v3.57), no crank trigger. Replace Crank position sensor - still no trigger in TS. Here's where it gets weird.... I took the old crank position sensor, plugged it back in, and with the key-on I literally took the sensor and tapped it's pickup/face against the strut tower to the strutnut so that the magnet was indeed being "engaged". This is the only time I saw a trigger signal in TS.

My question is this - could it just be a bad crank position sensor? It was from a salvage lot, so I guess it could be bad. It does put out .300 VAC when cranking in the installed position and the ohms from it read 560'ish.

Or could this be something else that I'm completely missing? I'm tired of this... soooo tired of this.

[ihone]

anyone have any ideas or experience in this? The CKP works if I tap it's face against something like the strut tower nuts, but in it's regular spot on the oil pump body - it doesn't read a damn thing.

This is really starting to get on my damn nerves.

Could I have actually broken that 6-tooth ring behind the crank pulley?

[yellowrob]

I would try, but I have no idea what TS is.

---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:39 PM ----------

Did you have the crank pulley off before this happened. Because yes that toothed pulley can get messed up.

[Matt Cramer]

TS = TunerStudio. The software that connects to a MegaSquirt. Could be a bad sensor indeed, but also check the sensor gap distance. Can you get a composite log of an attempted start?

[ihone]

Matt - the composite log shows cps (cam) but no crank, w/ error sync pulses repeatedly. but if I literally take the thing out and "make it work" by putting it's face against something metallic - it actually tries to start... this has to be my issue.

[ihone]

it's either the CKP itself is bad (but it puts out .300 ac volts on turning over and has the correct ohms), or the crank pulley has somehow become shot. I don't know exactly how the crank pulley could be damaged, but I guess I'm going to have to check it out.

Any other suggestions fellow KL-fans?

[ihone]

revisiting this - haven't had a lick of time to even look into it.

Has anyone else had a crank pulley that the VR wheel either sheered off from or just wasn't in alignment any longer so that the CKP didn't get anything from the wheel?

It's either:
1.) the CKP wiring
2.) the VR wheel

[LoNaTiC]

check the ckp, should read between 550-580 ohms.

[mac1]

Ckp puts out .300mv while cranking. Also if he outer ring on the damp er pulley has come undone the. You will time it way off.

[ihone]

it's alive!

the wiring I thought ohm'ed out just fine - turned out the signal wire was busted internally somewhere. Replace said wire - fired right up.

Now to get back to tuning and see what this thing'll really do.