Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Wiring gurus

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Wiring gurus

    I swapped in my 95 ecu into my 94 today, since the only good distributor I have is a 95. Everything works fine... but, initially it wouldn't start until I swapped the disty wires. This doesn't make sense to me since a 95 ecu - 95 disty should work off the bat. It's no biggie I have a pigtail to swap things I just thought it was weird that it still required the wire swap. Anyone know why?

    I figure it will cause less complications with e-check to have an OBDI ecu running the car instead of a maf swap hanging out of the console and a CEL for ATX codes.

    The idle was significantly lower at all times with the KL89, enough that if I kept it in I would adjust the idle screw. Now I have to figure out why it idles higher with a KLL6 ecu. Maybe the VAF slows down the air? Most say the MAF swap improves idle characteristics. Other than that it pulls and I thought I felt the DE VRIS once or twice. Just thought I'd post this for future tinkerers
    Probe out for Harambe
    94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

  • #2
    Pin 3 and 22 are swapped on connector C246

    94- Pin 3 Circuit 740: NE1 Signal (CPK)
    Pin 22: Not Used

    95- Pin 3: Not Used
    Pin 22 Circuit 740: NE1 Signal (CPK)
    95 Probe GT KLZE,Colt Cams Tri-Flow N/A,94 XtremeThings ECU, 65mm TB,DE intake springs & retainers,CAI, Clutchmasters clutch&flywheel,Shorty headers,2.5in Borla exhaust,Phenolic spacers intake/TB, RR racing inserts,Tranny saver,PRD Rear Strut Bar,Mazda 6 Brakes,Yonaka Coilovers

    Comment

    Working...
    X