NEWBIES READ: NOS gain's? & Best Beginner N2O set up? Merged

[Jeff_Jeske]

To run nitrous on a completely stock probe all you need is this:

1. Fuel Pump
2. Heavy Duty Clutch
3. Properly gapped plugs.


It looks like you are good to go minus the walbro.

[keithacole]

I did a quick search and Jeff posted this about his rebuild from some time ago...

[B]...The only oversized valves I could find were through PAECO....I believe they were $26 each and I forget how much bigger. They refused to tell me who the manufacturer was so I just went with standard size Ferrea valves. I paid $28 each for my Ferrea.
.

i want to buy some, how do i go about doing this?

[TRWeiss1]

It sounds like you guys hit all the best mods, but there is one that was left out: An ignition system. You can have the best air/fuel ration in the world, but if you're only burning 30% of it, it does you no good. An aftermarket ignition system will give you a hotter spark, which will burn more of the air/fuel mixture. End result: more power. Just thought I'd throw that in.

[Bluexcell]

Hotter does not always mean more efficient.. especially when using Nitrous. One of the benefits of Nitrous is the cooling effect it has on the charge entering the cylinder cooler = denser.
You already have an exceptionally dense oxygen rich mixture.. its this extra oxygen, the extra density overall, combined with extra fuel to match that gives you the extra power, one of the biggest problems with using Nitrous is not getting enough fuel to match the extra oxidant your providing... running lean... and therefore hotter..

The spark provides the initial ignition of the mixture and yes you need a good spark but, it doesnt determine what happens after the mixture ignites, nor does it determine the way the charge burns per se,since that is determined by many other factors too.

A deisel running Nitrous works pretty good without a spark at all..

The spark ignites the mixture closest to it, the burn radiates out from that... the resulting efficiency of the combustion is down to many other factors.. One of the recommendations for Nitrous is cooler running Plugs since a hot tip can induce pre ignition.

I agree an efficient spark is important.. but spark duration and timing are just as important. Dont be tempted to run hotter plugs in the belief your getting better combustion.. you might just end up with fried plugs.. (if your lucky)
This guy is the best in the business .. read his FAQs..
http://www.noswizard.com/

[TRWeiss1]

You're certainly correct....your air/fuel mixture depends on many factors. All I was saying is that it is important to have a good spark to ensure the mixture burns more thoroughly. It is only one factor, but yet a very important one. I shouldn't have used the term "hot" spark. I'm well aware that you want to run cold plugs, and supply the correct amount of fuel to match how much nitrous you have coming in. I've been running nitrous for a few years now. Anyway, I'll be more specific in the future. Thanks.

[TRWeiss1]

loser -
Here's my advice if you're planning to run nitrous: Do your homework....don't just go hooking up a kit on your car and hope it all goes according to plan. There are countless things to take into consideration when you run juice. I'd highly recommend getting an air/fuel gauge, so you can keep an eye on the ratio when you're spraying. I'd also recommend a wet kit. (injecting fuel and nitrous into your intake) Remember, you can run a dry kit (just injecting nitrous), and your motor will produce more power because you're forcing a lot of colder oxygen into the motor, but chances are you're not supplying the necessary fuel. I sprayed for about a year on my old KL-03 motor running a 60 horse dry shot, and it went like a bastard anytime I hit it....but....then I got an air/fuel gauge and found out it was running so lean it was dropping off the chart. When you run your motor lean, the temperature goes up, which can lead to any number of problems - blown head gasket, fried piston rings, etc. Anyway, I'm now running a KL-ZE motor with a 100 shot, and I now know much more about nitrous than I did back then. It's all about fuel delivery. Make sure your fuel system can delivery the right amount of fuel to accomodate the nitrous. In order to run nitrous correctly, you need to inject more fuel to keep up with the amount of nitrous coming in. I run a walbro 255 high flow pump with millenia S supercharged injectors, on top of a wet kit. Every time I spray I get at least one bar into the green (rich) on the air/fuel gauge. Also, believe it or not, it's more dangerous to spray at night b/c the air coming into your motor is colder and denser. So, now you have air that's already cold coming into your motor, on top of nitrous. The fuel you now need to supply is even greater. Hmm...what else....You definitely want to make sure you're running cold enough plugs, too. DO NOT run platinums.....If you do, you're just asking for detonation. Also, make sure your ignition is up to par. If you have an advanceable ignition, do NOT advance the timing. Once you start to get over a 100 shot, you generally want to start retarding the timing. Not to mention, head gaskets, clutch, and things of that nature. If you're running your factory clutch, it will slip with nitrous. Trust me, I've been there.....I run an XTD 6 puck clutch that has served me well. You could probably find one on ebay if you wanted. The point is nitrous hits HARD, and your factory clutch isn't going to be able to support that. But, if your fuel system is good, along with your clutch, plugs, gaskets, etc. (make sure your motor is good and functional. I wouldn't recommend doing it if there's something fishy going on with your engine) Other than that stuff, you should be ok. Ken, from Probetalk, is certainly right, though. Nitrous will shorten the life of your motor - like it or not. No matter how it's done. So just keep that in mind, and be careful. Oh god, I sound like my parents now....sorry. Lastly, I wouldn't recommend trying it in any gear lower than third if you've never sprayed before. It really isn't for inexperienced drivers. Ok man, good luck. Sorry about the rant....just trying to save another soul from running nitrous improperly.

[starr_719]

Good work on the info guys!!

Loser listen to what is being said and research your situation and then decide which kit is best for you.

I've gone up to a 125 dry shot on a daily driver. I've had my kit on for more then 2 years now on my 93. I've also seen, first hand, what a simple, low 45 wet shot can do to an engine, when misused, in 2 weeks time. That was on a low mileage 97GTS.

Let's keep the feedback coming in positive and productive.

[Serric]

I like this thread. I dont plan on running nitrous anytime (ever)... but way to go guys


if only more threads were like this

[The Canuck]

In a way you almost have to scare the S**t out of yourself before you put this in. Realize everything that could go wrong if you don't take care of it. It can be a lot of fun, which I know I have enjoyed, but it can be horrific if not taken care of. I think if you only want to do a small shot, I think a dry kit would be the way to go for you. That way you could do up to a 50 shot and the stock fuel pump will be able to handle it. Do your research, there are a lot of sites with lots of info, especially this one. Talk to as many people as you can that have it and see what they say. Thats what I did, and so far so good. Most people on the board have no problem answering questions, just make sure you search a little first then ask.

[rockstarbass1]

i was just woundering, what should be used for a 2L 4cylinder? i saw like "the canuck" said that a 50 shot dry would be ok. what is easyer on the engine?? with out having to change the fuel pump or any thing?

[starr_719]

Rockstarbass1 read:

But that's how I learned, started researching, looking through posts on PT, asking questions, now I can rattle off anything nitrous or turbo related without thinking.
loser666: read through the FYI posts, it will answer most your questions. I prefer a wet kit to the dry, but if you want to stay with a small shot I would lean towards a dry setup. Dry injects nitrous and alters vac pressure to the fpr to make it boost the fuel pressure at the injectors. The wet kit injects nitrous and fuel into the intake stream, which leaves the injectors operating stock but requires you to tap a fuel line. (not hard) Kits can be had used on ebay for about $300-350. I think installing nitrous is about as hard as putting in a headunit and amp/sub. Got some wiring to do, drilling holes to mount the bottle in the trunk, run lines, etc...

To all: The guys have gone out of there way to provide info without trying to slam a 'read' or 'search' on every noob question so please do your part and read the info provided in this and other threads post by post.

Note that no one can tell you what the perfect setup is for YOUR application. This is something you have to decide thru research as it will be your engine that benifits or falls apart.

[probe this]

You guys missed the most obvious mod of all. Nitrous gains lots of potential with a turbo or supercharger added into the system. Other than that you'll only gain the rated amount of power with the kit. I gain about 110-120hp with the 75 and 100 shots.
eric

[starr_719]

Note:

I hereby declare this a newbie-must-read-thread!!!

All newbies must read this thread and other sticky topics, search and then ask their relevent questions. There will be a test on every new newbie question ask that will reference back to this and other sticky threads.

Note to all: I will be merging the other sticky threads and any relevent info to form one SUPER STICKY thread so keep the good stuff coming!

[Dyno Tune]

Nitrous is destructive, and will shorten the life of your engine - period. You are running many risks when putting a nitrous system on a car. You have to pay attention to alot of things once you are running N2O, spark plugs, fuel, etc..

Nitrous does not blow up motors. People blow up cars using nitrous.

Will it shorten the life of your motor? Depends.

Pull a degree of timing for every 50 hp of nitrous and keep an A/F ratio of 11.5 to 1 and your motor will last long time. Rattle the motor (detonation) one too many times and you will be replacing piston rings and rod bearings.

Good rule to live by is limit your horsepower gains with nitrous to about 40-45 percent of the power it is making on the motor.

[ride116]

alright, i'll start off by saying hey, newb here (although i've been lurking theses forums for a few weeks now)
...enough of the bull...
so my question.. do any of you recommend upgrading any internals like forged pistons, rods, seals ect... and if so how high of a shot can u take (minimally modded stock v6 engine) with these upgrades.. if you really need them?
off the topic, but who is this jeff jeske guy? i've been reading his posts all over this site... the guy seems like a car genius, props man

later
-derrick