FrankenProbe work log, 2010

[gavin]

Well I know I will never complain again about lining up an input shaft through a single clutch disc again....after having to do it through 2. Ended up pulling the engine out (it takes about half an hour to pull the engine out of this car anyway) since I didn't want to jack up the expensive clutch or the expensive(r) PAR input shaft. She's mated up now (the RWD transmission jack is freaking awesome), next up is an oil pan swap since the return will be in a different spot now.

Didnt I tell you about my trials of doing the same? I thought I did, its been a long time since we talked though . No engine hoist or tranny jack for me either...its all sorts of fun to try and gently manouver the (much heavier) H-type transmission and try not to bend the clutch plates. Yeeeeah, not so much. :/

I had to do that twice after I discovered that the input shafts splines were too shallow and bottomed out on the clutch discs. That had the clutch discs clamped down and engaged all the time, wheeee. Luckily the fix was as simple as getting the discs with thinner, hardened spline interfaces and QMI did that for free (w00t).

I think what Ill do is find a dead transmission and get the input shaft from it and use that as the clutch centering tool. The plastic jobbie that comes with most kits simply do not work well for twin disc clutches.

Looking good Dan, Im actually curious enough that you might actually be able to convince me to go up to Sac raceway to see this thing run. 17.8lbs? Kinda....porky dont ya think?

Gavin

[Dan [Sac]]

I think what Ill do is find a dead transmission and get the input shaft from it and use that as the clutch centering tool. The plastic jobbie that comes with most kits simply do not work well for twin disc clutches.

Gavin

That's probably the way to do it. The plastic centering piece got pretty stripped when I was trying to get the 2 discs inline.


Did your clutch pedal travel distance change at all? Mine seems to be shortened quite a bit (will probably have to install a travel stop on the pedal) but I have to tweak it a bit more.

[Sasha]

Dan, it looks like you have your piping sorted out already, thought I throw this in there anyway:

http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...ool_Valve/3659

This works very well with divided T4 turbine housings.

[Dan [Sac]]

Dan, it looks like you have your piping sorted out already, thought I throw this in there anyway:

http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...ool_Valve/3659

This works very well with divided T4 turbine housings.

Wow, $500 for something like that? You could just correctly size your powerband/turbo/piping and avoid that expense. Or use the extra $500 to upgrade to VATN, if they still make those.

Turbo lag is my friend at the moment, given lack of traction. One of the reasons I went for journal vs. ball bearing (also expense and ease of rebuild). Having the power band higher is ok for now.

[gavin]

Did your clutch pedal travel distance change at all? Mine seems to be shortened quite a bit (will probably have to install a travel stop on the pedal) but I have to tweak it a bit more.

Shorter lever arm on the clutch release fingers

Yeah, the pedal travel distance will be shorter and feel a bit heavier(though much better than mega pressure plate clutches), also the clutch engagement point when you release the clutch pedal will be shorter and more abrupt as well.

It takes a bit to get the hang of it as its a little different than the action of high PP clutches. The plates will be very grabby when new (when the surface wears in a little It will get marginally better) and the lack of mass makes it easy to stall. The trick is to work within the narrow engagement point without slipping the clutch too much. They simply dont have the mass to deal with heat well. It gets better though.

I did install a clutch stop in my car. As it turns out the 1st gen has a clutch stop, I just changed it to be adjustable and reset it to engage the clutch pedal at the depth I wanted. If the 2nd gen has the same, you could do that as well.

Gavin

[Dan [Sac]]

Today I finished the pass. side mount, that one was a PITA, but it's done. Motor is in, sitting on 3 mounts, rock solid. I'll be adding a differential brace sitting on a custom cross member and a front mount, probably sitting on a custom traction bar setup.











Also welded up the v-band flanges on the header primaries, tomorrow I redo the secondaries hopefully all the way to the turbine inlet.


http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/7ed567e1.jpg

[JKpgt96]

Damn...50 bucks to turn the piping into squares? Good deal! I need to find someone to do that for me for cheap..

Looks good Dan! Post pics of the diff brace when you get it done if you don't mind.

[Dan [Sac]]

Got the one cold pipe done today, dramatic reduction in length from air to water. With the air intercooler, I had about 8 feet of pipe between intercooler exit and TB (and about 440* worth of bends). With the new stuff, less than a foot of piping with about 180* total turns. Also size upgrade from 2 1/4" to 3".

Had to make a temporary top cross bar to hang the turbo from so I can locate it accurately (hadn't set it yet when I snapped these pics) to finish the secondary piping from headers to turbine inlets.

Once all the piping is done I hope to have enough money left for ceramic coating (inside and out) of all pipes, due to the proximity of some things to others....

Also, ice water box will be located in the cabin, on the pass. side floor. Just not enough room between starter and brake booster to make it comfortably fit in there. At least this lets me keep the crankcase vents and expensive -12AN fittings where they are and I can use reinforced/mylar sleeved rubber hose for the water.


http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/76341f7b.jpg



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/5b9e71a4.jpg



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/68264f1c.jpg

[007 GTS]

This build just gets better and better.

[1slowblackze]

This build just gets better and better.

It shure does! and I will have to say that when it comes to speed and power in orginallity we gotta give it to dan! Frankenprobe has to be the badest power house of all front wheel drive kl or fs power! Go Dan keep up the awsome work buddy!

[JKpgt96]

Dan, are you keeping the stock water pump?

[Dan [Sac]]

Yeah, I have no plans on changing that, since I won't rev too high and it's done a fine job keeping things cool thus far.

[JKpgt96]

Ok, cool..yeah I forget with a turbo you don't need 10k rpm, lol.

[Jarod7920]

Looking good dan! Of course you dont NEED 10k....you only need 9 lol.

I wish there was a way to make the KL rev to 9k safely for a season on a stock pump. Even 8-8.5 would be nice, even if it meant replacing the pump every season.

[Dan [Sac]]

Today I finished the pipes up to the turbo. Also welded the downpipe complete, and welded the bung for the BOV flange.

Made my own 2-into-1 merge collector (1.5" pipe) for the wastegate. Not the prettiest thing, but it will do the job. Tacked it on the secondaries, tomorrow I'll finish welding it up and also the wastegate exhaust pipe and the radiator hard lines.

That should just about take care of the turbo stuff, and the next step it the intercooler water plumbing.











http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/7538beb2.jpg