Thee NYPOC Lounge

[2Funky4U]

CP-e is mad expensive. Definitley quailty stuff...but compared to others it's sooo much more.
A CAI for my car...$500 min. all others are half that. Its no different to any other CAI, cept for the MAF sensor...thats what your paying for (and all it does its fix the cel light). I would keep browsing the Maz3 forum and keep watching the sale threads.

[Domino81]

CP-E as far as I know is the only company offering a high pressure fuel pump. And it has a lifetime warranty. The downpipe is made by CNT. And $350 for a TMIC, by comparison to EVERYONE else, INCLUDING Corksport, is very cheap. And it's the best quality shit I've seen. Mind you, Corksport is VERY nice, too. But it's also at least $50 more expensive.

[TRWeiss1]

I'd rather be racing today than be at work.

lol

[Domino81]

I gotta come up with a solution to this 3rd gear grinding issue. Shit is bad. If the gearbox is warm and I try to change gears at high rpm without being VERY, VERY careful it'll grind.

[TRWeiss1]

My guess is that that synchro is hurting, Ant. Unfortunately it's not an issue that's going to resolve itself, or be fixed with a gear oil change as you're finding out.

The way I see it you can either pull the tranny, split it, and try replacing the synchro yourself depending on how difficult it is....or put in a used tranny. When I got my FD the 5th gear synchro was gone, so it'd do that grind shit every time I hit 5th. I got sick of that REAL quick...

[Domino81]

Here's the thing, this is how I see it in my mind; I paid $16,900 for a 2-year old car and I shouldn't HAVE to. Last measure before seriously consider selling it is change the gear oil to Ford Motorcraft Honey... XT-M5-QS. I've heard it works wonders. I don't want to have to spend money. That's why I bought this car. I was tired of fixing shit on my Probe.

[TRWeiss1]

I hear you...but unfortunately it's a mechanical entity, and it's going to have some issues at times. It doesn't care what you paid for it. Given the fact that you're making a good bit of power and have track'd the car, *something* was bound to happen.

Although I'm sure that Motorcraft Honey is good, I have my doubts that it'll resolve your issue, since it seems to be pretty persistent. No amount of magical gear oil is going to fix a worn (or even broken, like my 5th gear synchro was) synchro.

[Domino81]

It's pretty common, the more I read. I've heard of it solving the issue. In fact, it's just persistant since Myrtle Beach. I drove all that way down and it started then. After driving all that way, and putting a lot of heat into the gearbox. Now I hear what you're saying, and I'd be glad to do it if the car wasn't almost new. But I bought this car to get away from that. If I didn't ****ing love that car so much I'd have gotten rid of it by now. I've never replaced a synchro. And I really can't afford to have a car down unless I have something else to drive. I don't have 2 vehicles like you do... (jealous). I've been looking, but realistically, if I'm struggling to save $600 because I need a new set of tires... how the **** am I supposed to save $2000 or more for a decent beater? I've considered many times selling it to buy a used Tacoma or Jeep or something. I may just do it and walk away fom cars all together.

And here's another thing - What happens if I take it out, tear it down and it's fine. It's just an adjustment on my shifter or the motor mount just needed to be changed? I have an aftermarket one now... but I have a feeling it could be upgraded still.

[TRWeiss1]

Nah, don't go getting out of cars because of this Ant! I totally hear you on the trying to save money argument, and a beater is a great solution if you scrape up a few bucks (without buying a total POS, of course).

The reason I think it's the synchro is because it's only that gear, but I'd have to experience the problem myself to help you diagnose it. If you're not at a higher RPM and you bang 3rd as fast as you can, does it grind? Does it matter if you shift fast or slow? I doubt it, but you're not just trying to get into 3rd so fast that you're letting out the clutch before it's fully into that gear, are you? (Had a friend that was doing this once, and it's most common on the 2nd->3rd gear shift, since that's typically the longest throw).

If it's grinding pretty consistently, I'd be shocked if you tore it apart and didn't find anything...but you've done more research on this problem than I have, so if people are saying to give that gear oil a shot then I'd say go for it. It's [obviously] far easier/cheaper than ripping out the tranny and tearing it down. Besides, if it doesn't help you're only out what you paid for the oil, plus the time it cost you to change it.

I almost wonder if it isn't something like a motor/transmission mount, where when you're shifting at a high RPM it causes everything to rock just enough where you're missing the gear (IE - between first and 3rd or between 3rd and 5th)...

[Domino81]

http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support/FineTune.htm

I can't tell you how many people SWEAR by Ford Motorcraft Honey.

[TRWeiss1]

Like I said, it's definitely worth a shot at this point.

I'm getting hungry...must go in search of food soon!

[Domino81]

I've also read that that JB SSP makes the grind worse. I may take that out.

[TRWeiss1]

Give 'er a shot maing!

[Staats]

Gah, I think something is up with my GT. When I was stock I was running in the high 15's. (This was only ever timed by hand not at the track so I know there was leway here.) This was the first time at the track with my mods below and I ran 16.21 @ 86.44 with a 60' 2.537. Althought my reaction time rocked, .573. I don't know if one of my VRIS is shot, or if I need to adjust the TPS. Plugs only have about 3000 miles and the wires are the PA 8mm wrapped ones and are newer too.

Any ideas? Any one wanna meet up at take a look? Maybe we can figure out WTF is going on? I had two stock Cobalt LS's at the track pulling 16.1's! and my buddies tC with a CAI and cat back running 16 flat!

[TRWeiss1]

You DEFINITELY shouldn't be running that slow bud! Firstly, was this at Empire? If so, that's a pretty slow 60' time (no offense, just saying it affects your ET big time). Had you gotten a better launch (say a 2.2 second 60') you'd have been in the 15's no problem.

Secondly, have you ever done a compression test on your motor? How many miles are on it? Also, what was the temperature/humidity like up there? Moreso than anything, your slow time can be attributed to a slow 60' time, along with hot weather. Also, keep in mind that it's very important to compare your car to what similar cars are running at the track, not what you think it should run.

The other option would be to get to a dyno and see what kind of power that motor's putting down. That'll tell you definitively if it was your driving at the track causing the slow time, or a motor that's down on power.