EU ECU vs. USA ECU in 2.0 I4

[KnightRider]

I have a Haynes manual for the Ford Probe/Mazda 626/MX-6, and it shows you how to get the ECU trouble codes by shorting pins GND and ??? with a paperclip and then connecting an Ohmmeter between STO and -VE on the battery then switch the ignition on and watch the meter sweeps.

Ever since I bought my car, (a 1994 Mazda 626 2.0 16v) I keep getting code 17 which it says in the Haynes manual is the O2 sensor (of which there is only one in the manifold), and I have replaced this and know it's working fine because the emmissions go haywire when I disconnected it, then I have to reset it.

I think that the Euro/Japanese ECU may have different fault codes to the ones in the Haynes manual (which is a USA publication) as I read on another website something about EEC-IV or something, and I found a website with fault codes for this ECU and I think 17 was "Idle speed endstop set too low" and I have a problem with my idle going too low sometimes.

So my question is, do Euro models made in Japan have the same ECU as the one in the Haynes manual and the one most of you have in North America?

Thanks.

[Smokey801]

I don't believe so but I have a question for you how did you get your j-spec i4 because I want to but one. Better yet can I swap to a j-spec v-6?

[PurpleMetal1]

Too much of the technical info in the Haynes is misleading or incorrect.
The info they list is correct for some models, but not all.

Hell, half of the wiring diagrams for my car in there are either completely wrong, or halfway wrong (either way, they don't help much). In the manual, the instructions for pulling codes on my car are incorrect (2.0L MTX).
I diagnosed a fan relay/sensor problem, and it took me 2 days of testing the wires & relays to figure out what the relays' purposes were, how each one worked (each one responded differently when triggered), and where each wire terminated at because the Haynes manual was completely wrong.

I took all the notes I took (3 pages), and I have a nice wiring diagram on my computer now (not that it would do me any good now).
After I had an accurate diagram, the repair took 20 minutes.

So I would say if the codes listed in the Haynes don't match your car, try to find a code pulling procedure/codes list for a MX-6 on the 'net ( www.MX6.com ).
The EEC-IV codes are for a Ford (since it's a Ford system), and I imagine they might not be accurate for a Mazda PCM.