Change your own clutch..........

[chris90]

Yea you were right..I got down there today and it all matched up..Now All I have to worry about is the ze intake manifold..The back of it looks a lot different that the kl03. Ive found some forums on it, but im more of a visual kinda guy. So I might just put the kl03 intake manifold on the ZE cause its looks really confusing.

[TravisCadello]

I tried to do my clutch 2 months ago and could not get the drive axle nuts off ,broke 3 breaker bars and broke a craftman tool. it was stuck on so i just gave up on changing my clutch! payed a mechanic 250.

[Fastest95PGT]

This write-up doesn't have you remove the axle nuts.

I was installing a ZE a couple weeks ago and one of the axle nuts broke my 3/4->1/2" impact stepdown. Of course, that's probably contributed to the 1000ft/lb impact gun, but still. I've since ordered a 3/4" impact 32mm for just this job.

[howdyhowy]

Hey travis I read this thread 2 1/2 years ago and found it to be the best thing I'v red so far here in pt.. At the beginning ,when you wrote this,did you ever think that this thread would be so actively open for so long..Be honest..

[TravisCadello]

how much do shops usually charge to install a clutch

I got mine done for 250.

[190km/h]

That's a good deal. There's a Probe being junked out near me, the owner spent 1300 on getting the clutch done, then forgot to put oil in the car and seized it. Cheap parts for me though!

[hockeystyx16]

^^rofl darwin award

[Dorkasaurus]

Ok what am I missing here? I started to do my clutch today and was unable to get the passenger side axle free...yet I don't see this mentioned on the 'short version'? I also don't see any mention of removing the intermediate shaft. I can understand not needing to remove the axle from the hub but it's gotta come out of the tranny. My probes been good to me but I'm pretty sure I don't want another fwd car. Last clutch I did was on a '58 VW, took about 30 minutes. I'm sure I spent more than 30 minutes screaming at axle today lmao

[Fastest95PGT]

Ok what am I missing here? I started to do my clutch today and was unable to get the passenger side axle free...yet I don't see this mentioned on the 'short version'? I also don't see any mention of removing the intermediate shaft. I can understand not needing to remove the axle from the hub but it's gotta come out of the tranny.

There's no reason to touch anything on the passenger side according to this write-up. Just pull the transmission off the motor, the intermediate shaft will just slide out as there's no C-Clip holding it in like there is on the driver's side.

Leave the passenger axle attached to the intermediate shaft as well.

[Dorkasaurus]

There's no reason to touch anything on the passenger side according to this write-up. Just pull the transmission off the motor, the intermediate shaft will just slide out as there's no C-Clip holding it in like there is on the driver's side.

Leave the passenger axle attached to the intermediate shaft as well.

Well that's handy. Stupid Haynes manual makes it sound like a six week operation as you disassemble 90% of the car to replace a clutch. Hopefully round 2 of me vs. clutch goes better today. It still seems like the intermediate shaft bearing assembly would need to be unbolted from engine block but I guess I'll find out soon enough...

[hockeystyx16]

the reason for that is haynes manuals are written in fully equipped shops with lifts, 120 gallon compressors and 700ftlb air guns that will break a house off a foundation, so for them to zip the axle nuts off and take half the car apart is a 10 minute job, whereas driveway mechanics with breaker bars and a BFH, it takes a little longer than that.

dont touch the intermediate shaft, dont even look at it. when you get all the bolts off, just get under the transmission, bench it and slide it off. it only weighs like 70-80 pounds. then when your putting it back together you got a shaft helping you guide the transmission on.

Travis' writeup is great, it guided me thru my clutch job in my 93, but unless you have a inanely long 17mm box end, id suggest dropping the exhaust. it makes it so much easier to get to the back mount instead of trying to snake your hand and wrench around the rusty pipes with rust and mud and that fibeglass shit falling in your eyes.

[Dorkasaurus]

when you get all the bolts off, just get under the transmission, bench it and slide it off.

I got all the bolts off, afaik, and transmission won't "just slide off". I've looked about 10 times and am pretty confident it's not a bolt holding it on. It's currently about 1/4" away from the engine but I can't get it off. Wedge, pry bar, you name it I've tried but transmission won't budge. Any ideas? FYI as soon as I realized it was doing this I double checked and did find one PITA bolt near starter and once it was out I was sure my problem was solved but no dice. There is now a gap between engine and bell housing everywhere I look so I don't think it's a bolt.

[TravisWilliams_GT]

It could be a siezed/failed pilot bearing.......

As long as you are "SURE" there is nothing else holding it to anything.......

Get another Pry bar, get help & get pulling.

[Dorkasaurus]

It could be a siezed/failed pilot bearing.......

As long as you are "SURE" there is nothing else holding it to anything.......

Get another Pry bar, get help & get pulling.

Ok I pried the crap out of it but clearly something is holding it. I doubt it's a pilot bearing, or if it is it never made any noise at any point in the last 70k miles. As I pried it appears its still bolted to the engine somewhere near the starter by a magic invisible bolt because it's barely separating in that area. In that area 2 17mm engine to trans and 1 14mm bolt have been removed. I don't see any other bolts. I even groped the engine for a bit and couldn't feel any invisible bolts either. So 5.5 hours later and still not much progress. So what bolt did I miss?

[TravisWilliams_GT]

Counter - Clockwise from 12 noon on the transmission as viewed from the driver side:

12 o'clock - two 17 mm bolts thru transmission to engine

9 o'clock - 17 mm bolt thru transmission to engine

8 o'clock - 17 mm bolt thru transmission to engine (nestled down in transmission castings near front motor mount bracket)

7 o'clock - 17 mm SHORT bolt thru engine to transmission

5 o'clock - 14 mm bolt thru engine to transmission

3 o'clock - 17 mm bolt thru transmission to engine