Change your own clutch..........

[Gt-Addict]

Hey thanks. that is an awesome thread...go travis

[97_pgts]

Hey guys, quick question.

Everything has gone smoothly so far, I am following the write up step by step, and I am at the part where I pop out the axle. I wasn't able to get it quite; the top left corner area of the axle (if looking from driver side wheel hub) isn't wanting to come out. I have the rest of the axle approx. 1/2-3/4 of an inch out, and it seems as if the only thing stopping me from getting it out is that top corner. I can't seem to get my pry bar up underneath that corner. Any tips? I have used a couple different size bars, from your standard crow bar, to smaller allen key shaped pry bars which are a bit smaller and easier to maneuver. I am thinking of using a flathead, I don't know why I haven't thought about that earlier, but I will try that tomorrow. Does anyone else have any tricks/tips to get it out? I would like to attempt this without taking the wheel hub off, even though it would make it a bit easier and give a bit more room to try to pull it out from the front, but the socket is stripped pretty badly (no problems, socket is just stripped) so I would like to get this out without having to take that route (I plan to replace, but I plan to do that at a later date - money is pretty tight, even though that is an easy fix).

I did move on to a few of the next steps, such as getting all the ground bolts/wires/harnesses out of the way.

Would it be a good idea to go ahead and take the fuel filter off and attack it from the top side? This and the flathead idea are about the only other things I can think of besides taking the hub assembly off and trying to pop it out from that angle.

Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks.

[pugsrule]

you did remove the strut to hub bolts and turn the wheel to the left, right?

[97_pgts]

Yes, as I said I follwed the write up step by step and seeing as that was one of the first steps, yes.

[pugsrule]

Yeah, I know its one of the first steps, but thats were you're at in the project...the beginning. You could try jacking the engine up abit and loosen the motor mounts up to give you more room for the axle.

[lunch]

Having a problem I did a clutch and mx3 flywheel now my starter is crankin for a secong then grinding any help would be greatly appriciated

[jwalkergt]

I just PM'd this to mrduke to help him with his weekend coming up, figured it could go in here as well.:

My best time is 1 hr 37 minutes

OK, as in Spaceballs, here's the Short, short, short version:

• jack up car
• remove driver wheel/tire
• begin drain on transmission plug - 23 mm.
• remove two strut-to-hub 17mm bolts
• remove abs sensor from hub (2) 12mm
• remove crossmember (6) 17mm bolts
• remove engine cradle (2) 17mm nuts, (2) 14mm nuts, (2) 17mm bolts, and the front motor mount thru bolt (17mm)
• use chisel and hammer to pop axle from transmission. the hub will swing out far enough to pull the axle out of the transmission, barely.
• remove the whole slave cylinder itself from transmission (2) 12mm
• DO NOT OPEN/mess with the line (this way you won't have to rebleed it)
• pop retailer clip from transmission bracket and lay this up and to the side
• use the overflow as a hook for it to keep it up and out of the way
• disconnect starter wire (12mm) and solenoid wire (male to female, squeeze and pull)
• remove single 17mm nut on upper motor mount to free up big ground.
• pull up wireharness out of the way to gain access to more bolts
• remove single ground wire 10mm bolt, other 4wire ground wire 10mm bolt, the bracket they were attached to, and throw the bracket away.
• weight reduction
• remove 10mm bolt on rear motormount to transmission brace
• remove 10mm bolt on main transmission ground wire (black w/ yellow stripe)
• unplug VSS (grey plug, 2 wire, into top rear of trans vertically)
• unplug PNP Switch (black 2 wire plug near fuel filter, comes up from underneath)
• unplug reverse lights switch (2 wire white plug, under starter)
• begin with removing transmission to engine 17mm bolts, 3 across the top, 2 down the front
• remove inspection plate (3) 14mm bolts
• remove shifterlinkage bar (12mm)
• remove shifter stabilizer bar (14mm)
• remove 3 rear motormount to transmission 17mm bolts, Start on the TOP One and work down (trust me)
• remove rear 17mm engine to transmission bolt.
• remove front lower 17mm engine to transmission bolt., it is a stubby one, remember where it goes
• leave in lower rear 14mm engine to transmission bolt (trust me)
• remove 2 10mm nuts on fuel filter
• remove 17mm bolt from lower leg of upper trans mount accessible now you have moved the fuel filter out of the way (just pop it over one stud to the left)
• at this time wedge axle input shaft up into the loop of the lower fuel hose, it'll hold it there up and out of the way (trust me for later)
• secure jack under the motor, use exhaust piping, it'll hold ....(or oil pan....it'll be fine)
• MARK their orientation in the motor mount bracket (front to rear, the hole is slotted) first with a silver sharpie or something, then remove remaining 2 nuts and single 17mm bolt on upper transmission mount. marking them will help in alignment later for rear 3 17mm MM to MTX bolt install
• transmission should sag down a bit, but not fall (remember 14mm bolt from above?)
• get under transmission and remove 14mm bolt.
• using bench press technique, grab starter with right hand and rear of trans (around the shifter linkage input) with left hand
• slide transmission off motor....flathead screwdriver and wedge from earlier will help a stubborn contestant.

do clutch replacement and FW? if applicable.

MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH IS DEAD CENTER....use the alignment tool.

Tricks on install:

installation is reverse of removal but.....
Note orientation on upper 2 MM bolts and 2 studs.

use automotive lubricant on input shaft, teeth, and T.O. bearing shaft. hit the steel sleeves on the edge of the bell housing as well, to help it sink when you seat it.

you didn't mess with the passenger side on purpose, because now you have a shaft that will help you guide the transmission back home.

When you go to put it in, sink that shaft first, then play with the alignment on the input shaft.

Careful, it can/will fall back off even if you think you got it on....so thread that 14 mm bolt back in when you can get it to line up to secure the transmission

Oh, add fluid, pump clutch a few times first, and check your engagement before you get it down.

good luck, that is the short, short, short, short, short, version.

nice

[tom_ledoux]

This job was a lot easier in my head than in reality. I must have spent 2 hours getting the grounds straps and such loose, but it would have been infinetly more difficult without the write up. Thanks!

[bobofthedesert]

Can anyone recommend someone in the Las Vegas area to do this job? I'm being quoted $665 with me supplying the clutch kit and slave cylinder, sounds a little high.

TIA.

Great site. Now I'm off to the performance threads to do some more reading......

[VENGER]

Cool, i will need a new clutch soon

[Williec93]

Greatly detailed, very good write up, but i was lost with some of the part terms. like the retailer clip. **** if i knew, i think if you put more of the general area of them it would help many people. 8am to 8pm, and alls i did was swap the clutch, gotta finish up tomarrow.

[Dalecalvin1412]

Niiiice like the detail and pictures help! Lol

[93GT_ED]

I think it took me 1:37 min to remove the 3 rear motor mount bolts.

I spent about 12 hrs doing the clutch and both CV shafts and rear o2 sensor last weekend.

I hate to think how much longer it would have been if I followed the Haynes manual.

Thanks for taking the time to put it together.

[Nadjah GT]

cool

I'm glad u posted this cuz I really needed this around this time cuz I'm bout to install a new clutch on my probe

[cyberdude1]

dude....thank you so much for posting this.. i was thinking i would have to pull the engine just to do a clutch because as you know there is no room lol.. the pics and info are worth a ton to me ty ty ty ty.. mike