Another question. The three lugs around the edge of the pressure plate are not supposed to contact the edge of flywheel when bolted to it are they?
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Originally posted by rod bender View PostAnother question. The three lugs around the edge of the pressure plate are not supposed to contact the edge of flywheel when bolted to it are they?
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701211996
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Nope, not dowels.
96KL - No, not the dowel pins. Slightly before each bolt hole is a part of the pressure plate that is cast iron. Kinda square is shape and about 1/2 inch in width. Kind of a tab. There are three of them equally spaced around the plate and it is part of the machined iron ring the face of which engages the clutch disc itself. It is where the pressure plate is riveted to the face. The instruction sheet for one of the clutch kits I looked at said I should bolt it to the flywheel and if the edge of it touched the flywheel I should grind it just enough not to make contact. The South Bend Clutch I bought did not have that in its instructions, but it did touch and I ground that down accordingly.
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Another question. I can not get the proper pedal free play. With the new clutch installed and the clutch pedal at the proper distance given in Haynes' manual and the clutch rod at its maximum length, there is still nearly two inches of free play instead of the 1/8 inch it is supposed to have. I had this same problem with the previous clutch after I replaced the master and slave cylinder and bled them several times. Then I ended up making a spacer to fit in the boot of the slave to effectively lengthen the rod. Is my problem air in the system? At that time, after making the spacer everything seemed to work fine. Now, I have not gotten everything else ready in order to try it out.
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Originally posted by jdonnell View PostGlad this archive still exist. I was quoted $854 to do the clutch job excluding resurfacing the flywheel. Screw that. I plan to do this myself in the fall. Throwout bearing (I think) sounds like a chirping bird.
Anyway I would recommend a Transmission Jack if you are doing it alone unless you are Hulk like. It makes a huge difference.
Also if I were you I would change all 5 motor mounts while the trans is out if they are old. Well all 4 while it's out, change the one on the passenger side when you have it all back together.
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Hey, you forgot to mention some of us have to remove the splash shield. At least one 22 year old car still has all her plastic! Also when working on the CV axle I don't generally remove the 12mm ABS sensor bolts (that have a reputation for breaking), pulling the line off the strut and the 10mm nuts in the fender well gives me enough room to work. (Though I suppose if the 10mm nuts aren't rusted I really shouldn't be worried about the 12mm sensor bolts...)'91 LX ATX: stock(ish), barn restoration R.I.P.
'95 GT MTX: modded intake and exhaust, front strut bar, mirror-tinted rear windows, leather, sun roof. Way too much fun to drive! summer DD/play car
'99 Subaru Outback Ltd MTX: Stuff hauler, winter DD
'92 GL MTX SOLD.
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Yes. That would negate the concern of the 12mm bolts.¶¶¶ Spyder Mica Metallic1994 PGT ZE-T04E Intercooled @ 6 psi.. ----- Sold within NEPO and PT
¶¶¶ Arancio Atlas Metallic1995 PGT NOVI 1000 Intercooled @ 10psi. ----- STUPID FAST
¶¶¶ Verde Mica Metallic 1993 PGT Modified, Sanctified, Retired. ----- Damn I miss her.
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