Change your own clutch..........

[mvaughn1]

Daym.. I can't replace the clutch all by myself.. Need to have atleast two companions to help me.. Unscrewing the bolts will also take some time.. Plus, removing the transmission support is hard to remove, unless there are two people supporting the transmission itself..

There is nothing very difficult about removing the bolts. What transmission support are you talking about? Do you mean the motor mount? Everything is basically straightforward when you have the right tools and follow the directions. Plus once everything is unbolted and disconnected the tranny still just sits attached to the engine until you pull it off and it doesn't weigh that much.

Mike

[TravisWilliams_GT]

This thread has become a haven for 25 post hunters........

somebody call

[MakatoMotors]

hey travis.. i think my clutch is goin.. this morning i went to put it in reverse and it wouldnt.. i had to shut the car off.. put it in reverse.. turn the car back on.. then it went in reverse... then i went to put it in 1st to go foward but it wouldnt come out of reverse...i had to shut the car off again... its really hard to shift gears and grinds a little out of nowhere(didnt do it till yesterday) wat do u think? also im only 2 1/2 hrs from u (wytheville,va) maybe u could come down? u have a pm

[Blacketik]

Wow, use this how to and take me about 7hrs including changing motor mounts! And if was my first time. Ready to change my intake now.

[Jebidiah]

I just PM'd this to mrduke to help him with his weekend coming up, figured it could go in here as well.:

My best time is 1 hr 37 minutes

OK, as in Spaceballs, here's the Short, short, short version:

• jack up car
• remove driver wheel/tire
• begin drain on transmission plug - 23 mm.
• remove two strut-to-hub 17mm bolts
• remove abs sensor from hub (2) 12mm
• remove crossmember (6) 17mm bolts
• remove engine cradle (2) 17mm nuts, (2) 14mm nuts, (2) 17mm bolts, and the front motor mount thru bolt (17mm)
• use chisel and hammer to pop axle from transmission. the hub will swing out far enough to pull the axle out of the transmission, barely.
• remove the whole slave cylinder itself from transmission (2) 12mm
• DO NOT OPEN/mess with the line (this way you won't have to rebleed it)
• pop retailer clip from transmission bracket and lay this up and to the side
• use the overflow as a hook for it to keep it up and out of the way
• disconnect starter wire (12mm) and solenoid wire (male to female, squeeze and pull)
• remove single 17mm nut on upper motor mount to free up big ground.
• pull up wireharness out of the way to gain access to more bolts
• remove single ground wire 10mm bolt, other 4wire ground wire 10mm bolt, the bracket they were attached to, and throw the bracket away.
• weight reduction
• remove 10mm bolt on rear motormount to transmission brace
• remove 10mm bolt on main transmission ground wire (black w/ yellow stripe)
• unplug VSS (grey plug, 2 wire, into top rear of trans vertically)
• unplug PNP Switch (black 2 wire plug near fuel filter, comes up from underneath)
• unplug reverse lights switch (2 wire white plug, under starter)
• begin with removing transmission to engine 17mm bolts, 3 across the top, 2 down the front
• remove inspection plate (3) 14mm bolts
• remove shifterlinkage bar (12mm)
• remove shifter stabilizer bar (14mm)
• remove 3 rear motormount to transmission 17mm bolts, Start on the TOP One and work down (trust me)
• remove rear 17mm engine to transmission bolt.
• remove front lower 17mm engine to transmission bolt., it is a stubby one, remember where it goes
• leave in lower rear 14mm engine to transmission bolt (trust me)
• remove 2 10mm nuts on fuel filter
• remove 17mm bolt from lower leg of upper trans mount accessible now you have moved the fuel filter out of the way (just pop it over one stud to the left)
• at this time wedge axle input shaft up into the loop of the lower fuel hose, it'll hold it there up and out of the way (trust me for later)
• secure jack under the motor, use exhaust piping, it'll hold ....(or oil pan....it'll be fine)
• MARK their orientation in the motor mount bracket (front to rear, the hole is slotted) first with a silver sharpie or something, then remove remaining 2 nuts and single 17mm bolt on upper transmission mount. marking them will help in alignment later for rear 3 17mm MM to MTX bolt install
• transmission should sag down a bit, but not fall (remember 14mm bolt from above?)
• get under transmission and remove 14mm bolt.
• using bench press technique, grab starter with right hand and rear of trans (around the shifter linkage input) with left hand
• slide transmission off motor....flathead screwdriver and wedge from earlier will help a stubborn contestant.

do clutch replacement and FW? if applicable.

MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH IS DEAD CENTER....use the alignment tool.

Tricks on install:

installation is reverse of removal but.....
Note orientation on upper 2 MM bolts and 2 studs.

use automotive lubricant on input shaft, teeth, and T.O. bearing shaft. hit the steel sleeves on the edge of the bell housing as well, to help it sink when you seat it.

you didn't mess with the passenger side on purpose, because now you have a shaft that will help you guide the transmission back home.

When you go to put it in, sink that shaft first, then play with the alignment on the input shaft.

Careful, it can/will fall back off even if you think you got it on....so thread that 14 mm bolt back in when you can get it to line up to secure the transmission

Oh, add fluid, pump clutch a few times first, and check your engagement before you get it down.

good luck, that is the short, short, short, short, short, version.

Do you have any pics to go with that. i need to install a new clutch and it would be great if alongside the instructions we got pics as well.

[TravisWilliams_GT]

Next time I do one I'll snap some PICS>

[mvaughn1]

Travis, thanks for this writeup! I've done 5 or 6 motor swaps and at least 3 other clutch jobs on the probe alone and I couldn't believe how printing out your post helped me knock it out.

Total time was about 5-6hrs for me to swap everything.... I was being a pussy about doing the work because it's been over a year since I did "real" work on my car and I forgot just how fun it really is!

Mike

[TravisWilliams_GT]

After a 42 minute removal today on Sam's MX6 now there are PICS to go with the removal process.

Uploading now..... Post TBP in the PIC forum.

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701245537

[black&redpgt]

we need this for a klze engin swap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[TravisWilliams_GT]

I already did it....

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701191490

And quit trolling for 25 posts.

[shawn_crashed]

Nice work...just what i came on here for.

[sovietax]

omg, This thread just gave me the info and the hope I needed to do mine, I will also be replacing both CV axles while im at it as they are popping. awsome job

[Seahorsepower1]

Wow that's amazing time

[chris90]

Alittle help

Okay guys idk if Im postin this in the right section or not, but Here i go. I bought a 95 PGT with every bolt on you can think of for 1100. The thing was it had a light head gasket leak..So I went ahead and ordered a KLZE. Im having my granpa put it in with one of his buddies (he's been a mechanic for about 20 years)...He did it while I was at work today. Well i get home and my mom told me that my grandpa said that the 9LB fidanza flywheel that was on my klde wont bolt up to the klze..Is this right? and that all the wireing is on the wrong side of the ZE... I havent read anything about these problems before. Any help will be appreciated. Its a straight neck KLZE by the way.

[Fastest95PGT]

Well i get home and my mom told me that my grandpa said that the 9LB fidanza flywheel that was on my klde wont bolt up to the klze..Is this right?

Wrong, the flywheel is a direct bolt-up.

and that all the wireing is on the wrong side of the ZE... I havent read anything about these problems before.

Wrong. The wiring is the exact same if you use your original distributor and move over your EGR solenoids.

However, if you have a rare 95 PGT that's OBD-II, then there are a couple more harness differences.

You can tell if it's OBD-II by checking if you have O2 sensors before and after the cat that's under the car. Can also get a hint by manufacture date which is on the sticker in the door jamb (I forget which side). If it's made around April or later of '95, it *might* be OBD-II.