Ok this procedure took me approximately 4 hours, however that included time to stop now and again to document it. So it should only take about 3 hours from start to finish.
If you don’t like doing general automotive maintenance such as oil changes, tune ups and general work like changing CV shafts, I will advise you that this is a procedure that can really screw up an engine if done wrong, so if you have any doubts about doing this (mechanically) then I say don’t do it. If you do however screw something up while doing this procedure, then I take no responsibility.
All in all this procedure is very well worth doing. I am however not positive about how much my oil pressure increased as I do not have an aftermarket OPSU (oil pressure sending unit) and an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. However, my oil pressure did go up significantly according to the OEM OP gauge. Before doing the procedure my oil pressure ran right on the first line in the low end of the gauge (about ¼” from the red mark) and it only moved about the needles thickness increase oil pressure when revved to 3000 rpm. This really bothered me as I know how the #5 & #6 rod bearings like to starve for oil. Cold starts only saw oil pressures about ½ way between the “L” and the first low mark. All the while I was running 5w30 Syntec.
On a side note, my HLA tick was IMO pretty severe, it could be heard about 50ft from the car when warm, and I knew this was hurting performance and fuel mileage.
You will need an oil change, you don’t have to replace the filter, but why not you’ve gone this far. The oil pan gasket will be about $5 and can be bought at any parts store that carries Fel-Pro.
The Fel-Pro part # is: OS 30909 C
TOOLS NEEDED: : : : : : : : :
Jack, Jack stands, tire removal sockets and wrenches/locks, drain pan, oil/grease rags (several), 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, extension for ratchet being used 4” min., small/medium/large flat blade screwdriver, hammer, 10mm Alan wrench (must be regular style with 90* bend and 3” straight part or there abouts, not the socket kind, short piece of pipe (20”+) to fit over Alan wrench), locktite 242 or higher, torque wrench, razor scraper, wire wheel, new oil pan gasket.
Now you will need a ruler, and a washer that is 1/8th inch, or 3-3.3mm in thickness. I had to use three (3) washers to achieve this thickness.
It is optional to remove the front part of the exhaust. The down pipes and collector. I chose not to.
This is a pic of the oil pump and pressure relief valve..
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_43_full.jpg
OK, enough of my rambling now for the Oil Pump shim procedure.
Step#1)
Jack the car up, support with jack stands. Remove R/F (right front) tire. Remove plastic splash shield on the passenger’s side of the car. Drain oil, but leave filter on as you don’t want oil dripping on you the entire time.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_26_full.jpg
Step#2)
Now remove all of the oil pan bolts including the two that are nearest the flywheel. (If they turn hard, then easily turn them ¼ turn at a time, ¼ turn out, ¼ turn in, ½ turn out, ¼ turn in, etc….. until all of the bolts are out.) As seen here:: (~Haynes book pic, hey it was good for something. :grin: )
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_34_full.jpg
Step#3)
Take a 14mm (IIRC) wrench or socket and remove the rear most bell housing shield bolt. Optional to remove the other two and remove the shield, I chose to remove it as I wanted to see the flywheel and how much dust was on it. This must be done as the rear 12mm oil pan bolt will not clear the bell housing shield bolt.
Shield bolts:
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_32_full.jpg
Oil pan bolts, 12mm.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_33_full.jpg
Step#4)
Now is the fun part. Take the smallest screwdriver and the hammer, drive it under the oil pan edge about ½-3/4 of an inch, then remove and repeat with the next largest screwdriver, repeat previous with large screwdriver. Once the largest screwdriver is under the cover, twist the screwdriver and break the gasket free, use a small screwdriver to aid in the gasket separation all the way around the pan. As seen here:
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_29_full.jpg
Aiding with the small screwdriver seen here.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_30_full.jpg
Step#5)
Remove the pan.
Step#6)
This is what you see, the internals of the engine, pickup screen and the dipstick.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_31_full.jpg
The oil relief valve is located above this Alan screw:: (circled in green)
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_35_full.jpg
If you don’t like doing general automotive maintenance such as oil changes, tune ups and general work like changing CV shafts, I will advise you that this is a procedure that can really screw up an engine if done wrong, so if you have any doubts about doing this (mechanically) then I say don’t do it. If you do however screw something up while doing this procedure, then I take no responsibility.
All in all this procedure is very well worth doing. I am however not positive about how much my oil pressure increased as I do not have an aftermarket OPSU (oil pressure sending unit) and an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. However, my oil pressure did go up significantly according to the OEM OP gauge. Before doing the procedure my oil pressure ran right on the first line in the low end of the gauge (about ¼” from the red mark) and it only moved about the needles thickness increase oil pressure when revved to 3000 rpm. This really bothered me as I know how the #5 & #6 rod bearings like to starve for oil. Cold starts only saw oil pressures about ½ way between the “L” and the first low mark. All the while I was running 5w30 Syntec.
On a side note, my HLA tick was IMO pretty severe, it could be heard about 50ft from the car when warm, and I knew this was hurting performance and fuel mileage.
You will need an oil change, you don’t have to replace the filter, but why not you’ve gone this far. The oil pan gasket will be about $5 and can be bought at any parts store that carries Fel-Pro.
The Fel-Pro part # is: OS 30909 C
TOOLS NEEDED: : : : : : : : :
Jack, Jack stands, tire removal sockets and wrenches/locks, drain pan, oil/grease rags (several), 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, extension for ratchet being used 4” min., small/medium/large flat blade screwdriver, hammer, 10mm Alan wrench (must be regular style with 90* bend and 3” straight part or there abouts, not the socket kind, short piece of pipe (20”+) to fit over Alan wrench), locktite 242 or higher, torque wrench, razor scraper, wire wheel, new oil pan gasket.
Now you will need a ruler, and a washer that is 1/8th inch, or 3-3.3mm in thickness. I had to use three (3) washers to achieve this thickness.
It is optional to remove the front part of the exhaust. The down pipes and collector. I chose not to.
This is a pic of the oil pump and pressure relief valve..
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_43_full.jpg
OK, enough of my rambling now for the Oil Pump shim procedure.
Step#1)
Jack the car up, support with jack stands. Remove R/F (right front) tire. Remove plastic splash shield on the passenger’s side of the car. Drain oil, but leave filter on as you don’t want oil dripping on you the entire time.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_26_full.jpg
Step#2)
Now remove all of the oil pan bolts including the two that are nearest the flywheel. (If they turn hard, then easily turn them ¼ turn at a time, ¼ turn out, ¼ turn in, ½ turn out, ¼ turn in, etc….. until all of the bolts are out.) As seen here:: (~Haynes book pic, hey it was good for something. :grin: )
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_34_full.jpg
Step#3)
Take a 14mm (IIRC) wrench or socket and remove the rear most bell housing shield bolt. Optional to remove the other two and remove the shield, I chose to remove it as I wanted to see the flywheel and how much dust was on it. This must be done as the rear 12mm oil pan bolt will not clear the bell housing shield bolt.
Shield bolts:
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_32_full.jpg
Oil pan bolts, 12mm.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_33_full.jpg
Step#4)
Now is the fun part. Take the smallest screwdriver and the hammer, drive it under the oil pan edge about ½-3/4 of an inch, then remove and repeat with the next largest screwdriver, repeat previous with large screwdriver. Once the largest screwdriver is under the cover, twist the screwdriver and break the gasket free, use a small screwdriver to aid in the gasket separation all the way around the pan. As seen here:
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_29_full.jpg
Aiding with the small screwdriver seen here.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_30_full.jpg
Step#5)
Remove the pan.
Step#6)
This is what you see, the internals of the engine, pickup screen and the dipstick.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_31_full.jpg
The oil relief valve is located above this Alan screw:: (circled in green)
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...71_35_full.jpg
Comment