Replaced the rear oxygen sensor and thought I'd post pictures with instructions.
DIAGNOSIS (OBD-I Vehicles 1993-1995)
The Check Engine light was coming on and after jumping the TEN & GND pins, it was reporting Code 23 & 24......
23 RHO2S inactivation error
24 RHO2S inversion error
REMOVAL
The "right" oxygen sensor is located behind the engine about 4-5" below the exhaust manifold. It's a 4 wire sensor that points towards the passenger side of the car. Access to it is partially blocked by the frame crossmember (the beam on the left with the 3 holes).It looks like this....
Rear Oxygen Sensor (26KB)
To make this job quick and easy, remove the 6 crossmember bolts and remove the crossmember. They are quite short and have a 17mm head. Once you have it removed, I suggest using a crow-foot wrench to unbolt the sensor. The 7/8" wrench fit best. All the crossmember, bolts, suggested wrench and new sensor look like this.....
Parts and Tool(35KB)
The easiest access to the oxygen sensor is right through the middle of the pipes with the angled wrench head pointing left. It's a great fit and allows about 5" to turn it or hammer on it if necessary. Looks like this......
Best Wrench Angle(22KB)
The connector has a lever on the engine harness side of the connector that you push in while pulling the connector apart.
REPLACEMENT
Make sure to apply anti-seize compound to the threads before install. Some sensors come with it pre-applied. My replacement sensor came with a tiny tube of gold compound. Looks like this....
Applying Anti-Seize (27KB)
Screw it in before plugging the connector in. It's suggested to tighten to 35 ft/lbs. The sensor has a crush washer as a seal, so make sure to tighten it good and snug.
After you plug it in, reinstall the crossmember with it's six bolts. I'd suggest using Anti-Seize on these as well for future removal. Torque these bolts to 69-90 ft/lbs.
Finished product looks like this.....
New Sensor Installed (26KB)
A few other tools I used but are not necessary are an impact wrench and 1/2" torque wrench. I wouldn't shy away from removing the crossmember if you just have hand tools though. The bolts are short and come out rather easy on my 7 year old PGT. A 1/2" breaker bar should work fine. This is what I used....
Optional Tools (30KB)
Expect the whole job to take under 30 minutes after the car is jacked up. I'd say 15 minutes with an air wrench.
There you go
NOTE: Front oxygen sensor is very similar but much easier. Just remove the plastic "s" shaped air intake behind/above the radiator to gain access to it and the connector.
Codes associated with the "Left" sensor are as follows....
15 LHO2S inactivation error
17 LHO2S inversion error
:grin:
DIAGNOSIS (OBD-I Vehicles 1993-1995)
The Check Engine light was coming on and after jumping the TEN & GND pins, it was reporting Code 23 & 24......
23 RHO2S inactivation error
24 RHO2S inversion error
REMOVAL
The "right" oxygen sensor is located behind the engine about 4-5" below the exhaust manifold. It's a 4 wire sensor that points towards the passenger side of the car. Access to it is partially blocked by the frame crossmember (the beam on the left with the 3 holes).It looks like this....
Rear Oxygen Sensor (26KB)
To make this job quick and easy, remove the 6 crossmember bolts and remove the crossmember. They are quite short and have a 17mm head. Once you have it removed, I suggest using a crow-foot wrench to unbolt the sensor. The 7/8" wrench fit best. All the crossmember, bolts, suggested wrench and new sensor look like this.....
Parts and Tool(35KB)
The easiest access to the oxygen sensor is right through the middle of the pipes with the angled wrench head pointing left. It's a great fit and allows about 5" to turn it or hammer on it if necessary. Looks like this......
Best Wrench Angle(22KB)
The connector has a lever on the engine harness side of the connector that you push in while pulling the connector apart.
REPLACEMENT
Make sure to apply anti-seize compound to the threads before install. Some sensors come with it pre-applied. My replacement sensor came with a tiny tube of gold compound. Looks like this....
Applying Anti-Seize (27KB)
Screw it in before plugging the connector in. It's suggested to tighten to 35 ft/lbs. The sensor has a crush washer as a seal, so make sure to tighten it good and snug.
After you plug it in, reinstall the crossmember with it's six bolts. I'd suggest using Anti-Seize on these as well for future removal. Torque these bolts to 69-90 ft/lbs.
Finished product looks like this.....
New Sensor Installed (26KB)
A few other tools I used but are not necessary are an impact wrench and 1/2" torque wrench. I wouldn't shy away from removing the crossmember if you just have hand tools though. The bolts are short and come out rather easy on my 7 year old PGT. A 1/2" breaker bar should work fine. This is what I used....
Optional Tools (30KB)
Expect the whole job to take under 30 minutes after the car is jacked up. I'd say 15 minutes with an air wrench.
There you go
NOTE: Front oxygen sensor is very similar but much easier. Just remove the plastic "s" shaped air intake behind/above the radiator to gain access to it and the connector.
Codes associated with the "Left" sensor are as follows....
15 LHO2S inactivation error
17 LHO2S inversion error
:grin:
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