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  • relocating battery

    ok, so do i just hook the positive cable directly to the starter and then just ground the negative and tape up the old battery cables? what all do i do. last time nothing worked..
    1997 Mazda Mx-6 2.5

  • #2
    i believe the stock positivenwire going to battery terminal went to the alternator... When i relocate my battery..Im going to completly remove the factory wiring from the harness. Find out where it hooks up too. Then run 0 gauge to the trunk and to the battery!
    93 Probe GT
    Its not a PROBLEM. It's a PROBE LUM

    http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d..._5571185_n.jpg

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    • #3
      Originally posted by phatgt4me View Post
      i believe the stock positivenwire going to battery terminal went to the alternator... When i relocate my battery..Im going to completly remove the factory wiring from the harness. Find out where it hooks up too. Then run 0 gauge to the trunk and to the battery!
      When relocating batt to the rear...it is probably a good idea to have an high output alt (140 amp)...even with zero gauge. I have that covered now...but I will relocate batt next spring to make way for turbo.

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      • #4
        i..need to know why the hell this is not working for me... i have the cable directly connected from positive to the starter. then i have the neg. grounded. i tried TWO bumper bolts. nothing. tried the strut mounting area. NOTHING. i sand away the paint. NOTHING

        CAN SOMEONE PLEASE CHIME IN WITH SOME HELP? INSTEAD OF IDEAS OF WHAT THEY ARE WANTING TO DO?

        thanks.
        1997 Mazda Mx-6 2.5

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        • #5
          Your first post seems like it might be a follow up to another thread you had going?

          So blindly, i'll post what i did to get running with the battery relocate and your should essentially be the same.

          First, the Alternator connects to rearward side of the MAIN fuse in the fusebox, so you don't actually need to change this unless you're going with a HO alt, in which case, i dunno...

          As for the battery connections, just mimick the old connections. Run a Positive wire from the + batt terminal up to either the starter, or forward side of the MAIN fuse. Now run a line from the Starter to the forward side of the MAIN fuse.

          For the Ground, you do need a good size solid, clean, connection. I sanded off the paint around one of the rear seat mounting studs and used that, but i've been told by a stereo guy that its not the best choice... Seems to be working good for me...

          Here's my best 6minutes spent in MSPaint: http://www.xplode.ca/forum_pics/batrelocate.jpg

          From the sounds of it, you're just missing the jumper to the main fuse to power the car's electronics... Good luck!
          BC Probe Owners Club is VERY MUCH ALIVE - www.bcpoc.ca
          93 PGT 2.5L SILVER - Stock DE, ZE Intake Manifold, T3/T4 .50/.63 AR Turbo, Valant Turbo Pipes, Tial 38mm Wastegate (~9PSI), Custom Water/Meth Injection, Megasquirt v3 (MSnS-Extra 029q2 Fuel/Spark), Millennia Injectors @ 70psi, 65mm TB, JJ Resonated TP, Centerforce DF Clutch, MX3 Flywheel, AWR Mounts, it begins all over again...
          93 PGT 2.5L BLACK Dismantled
          GARAGE - The hybrid with a piston hole... lots of various leftovers...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Xplode View Post
            Your first post seems like it might be a follow up to another thread you had going?

            So blindly, i'll post what i did to get running with the battery relocate and your should essentially be the same.

            First, the Alternator connects to rearward side of the MAIN fuse in the fusebox, so you don't actually need to change this unless you're going with a HO alt, in which case, i dunno...

            As for the battery connections, just mimick the old connections. Run a Positive wire from the + batt terminal up to either the starter, or forward side of the MAIN fuse. Now run a line from the Starter to the forward side of the MAIN fuse.

            For the Ground, you do need a good size solid, clean, connection. I sanded off the paint around one of the rear seat mounting studs and used that, but i've been told by a stereo guy that its not the best choice... Seems to be working good for me...

            Here's my best 6minutes spent in MSPaint: http://www.xplode.ca/forum_pics/batrelocate.jpg

            From the sounds of it, you're just missing the jumper to the main fuse to power the car's electronics... Good luck!

            YES! you made it work! THANKS A LOT! you and another member i called helped me a lot! thanks soooo much! WHOOT
            1997 Mazda Mx-6 2.5

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            • #7
              ok, mine personally I ran 0guage from positive term of battery to psitive term wire (all copper coneections of course), then did a 1 foot 0 guage right to a course thread bolt ont a subframe rail in rear compartment, btw, does this mean I am no longer solo in te NE boosted probe class?
              93 PGT-ZEIntercooled turbo, fidenza 9lbs, centerforce clutch, AFPR, mount inserts, ZE chipped, blue Led Halo H4 headlights and still needing MS

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              • #8
                This may give you a few ideas as well:
                http://www.mx6.com/forums/gallery/22...nding-kit.html
                Ryan
                '94 Mazda MX6 V-6
                SMF Prep:
                MFactory LSD [] TEIN [] 15x11's and 275 Hoosiers [] Hawk HP+ [] Sparco [] AWR [] HotShot [] Headers [] Magnaflow [] Side Exit []

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