1st Gen Frequently Asked Questions
This is the Official FAQ for the F2 powered Ford Probe and Mazda MX6. Most of the ideas presented here will be directed toward the non-turbo models but some are applicable to all models. I know there is some information missing and if you have any input please feel free to add or shoot me a PM and I will insert it into this FAQ (provided the information is accurate!). Hopefully, now nobody will have an excuse for not searching. With that said, everything here is presented as a brief and additional information for the majority of this can be found by searching ProbeTalk.
So sit back, relax, read, learn, and when you’re ready: Get off your ass and get to work!
General:
1st things to buy (get at least one of these):
Haynes manual (Probe or MX6) – vague at times but will answer many questions
Chiltons manual – vague, too, But gets the job done.
Factory manuals (Probe or MX6) – This is pretty much the best. Purchase from www.ebaymotors.com or Mazda dealership.
Both of these mx6.com links have a lot of typical questions answered:
Mx6.com performance FAQ: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12651
MX6.com technical FAQ: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12650
General information and specifications of the F2, F2T, and Vulcan 3.0L can be found at www.performanceprobe.com – click on the links labeled: Information, Upgrades, and Do-It-Yourself. Performanceprobe.com has a lot of relevant information. Some of it is very useful while others not – you decide.
Other cool websites with F2 information:
www.geocities.com/ricks89gl/
www.cardomain.com/id/anomaly1
www.geocities.com/onthesyxxproductions/
F2 information:
Specifications: 2.2 liters, Single Over Head Cam (SOHC), 12 Valve, 4 Cylinder
Power: 110 hp, 130 lb-ft torque
Typically the best place to find replacement parts is your local junkyard. You can usually find good parts for a lot less than what places like Mazda dealerships would charge. Otherwise, Mazda dealerships either carry or can order parts but you’re going to pay for it! Other places that I have found to carry replacement parts: www.thepartsbin.com (excellent customer service and delivery time), www.nopi.com, www.carparts.com, www.summitracing.com
*note: not an endorsement, just places that carry parts for the 1st gens.
General Maintenance:
NGK spark plugs: ZFR6F-11 or ZFR7F-11 or ZFR5D-11 ....Plug gap: 0.044 (factory rec.)
High flow fuel filter: Fram part number G7393
Shift linkage bushings (4 required): Cost: ~$4-$7 each
Ford: E7GZ-7A133-A.......Mazda: B001-46-062
Lower shift boot:
Ford: F02Z7C301............Mazda: GJ25-46-090
Change control rod (large, front): GJ21-46-041 (Mazda)
Step by step directions for installing: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...ifter+bushings
2.2L Non-Turbo Vacuum Diagram:
http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~tford/vac_hose.jpg
HLA Ticking:
The HLAs, or Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, adjust valve clearances automatically,
so you don't have to do it during a tune up. However, they sometimes get clogged
with sludge on older cars and collapse. Marvel Mystery Oil has helped some people
to free them up. Otherwise you've got to replace them. Checking and replacement
procedures can be found by clicking this link: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=77252
ECU Reset:
I have just done an *engine, fuel, air intake, exhaust* modification and I need to reset the ECU/computer. How is this done and why do I need to do it?
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
2. Press on the brake pedal for about 30 seconds
3. Reconnect battery
4. Start the car but don't touch the gas pedal for one minute!
The ECU is like the brain for your car. It "learns" your engine's fuel and air intake requirements and then sets them into memory. When you do a modification that will affect the way fuel and air are mixed, then you have reset the brain so that it forgets the old requirements and has to learn new ones. This will guarantee that you will get the most from your mods.
ATX to MTX swap information:
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...t=ATX+MTX+swap
Speedometer stuff:
Follow the links for information regarding dealing with a bouncing needle, dead speedometer, and the repair.
Click here for info! (3 replies down)
Also, Here!
I have noticed that the speedometer drive gear is not the part that will fail. The best option is to replace the upper and lower speedometer cable assembly.
This is the Official FAQ for the F2 powered Ford Probe and Mazda MX6. Most of the ideas presented here will be directed toward the non-turbo models but some are applicable to all models. I know there is some information missing and if you have any input please feel free to add or shoot me a PM and I will insert it into this FAQ (provided the information is accurate!). Hopefully, now nobody will have an excuse for not searching. With that said, everything here is presented as a brief and additional information for the majority of this can be found by searching ProbeTalk.
So sit back, relax, read, learn, and when you’re ready: Get off your ass and get to work!
General:
1st things to buy (get at least one of these):
Haynes manual (Probe or MX6) – vague at times but will answer many questions
Chiltons manual – vague, too, But gets the job done.
Factory manuals (Probe or MX6) – This is pretty much the best. Purchase from www.ebaymotors.com or Mazda dealership.
Both of these mx6.com links have a lot of typical questions answered:
Mx6.com performance FAQ: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12651
MX6.com technical FAQ: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12650
General information and specifications of the F2, F2T, and Vulcan 3.0L can be found at www.performanceprobe.com – click on the links labeled: Information, Upgrades, and Do-It-Yourself. Performanceprobe.com has a lot of relevant information. Some of it is very useful while others not – you decide.
Other cool websites with F2 information:
www.geocities.com/ricks89gl/
www.cardomain.com/id/anomaly1
www.geocities.com/onthesyxxproductions/
F2 information:
Specifications: 2.2 liters, Single Over Head Cam (SOHC), 12 Valve, 4 Cylinder
Power: 110 hp, 130 lb-ft torque
Typically the best place to find replacement parts is your local junkyard. You can usually find good parts for a lot less than what places like Mazda dealerships would charge. Otherwise, Mazda dealerships either carry or can order parts but you’re going to pay for it! Other places that I have found to carry replacement parts: www.thepartsbin.com (excellent customer service and delivery time), www.nopi.com, www.carparts.com, www.summitracing.com
*note: not an endorsement, just places that carry parts for the 1st gens.
General Maintenance:
NGK spark plugs: ZFR6F-11 or ZFR7F-11 or ZFR5D-11 ....Plug gap: 0.044 (factory rec.)
High flow fuel filter: Fram part number G7393
Shift linkage bushings (4 required): Cost: ~$4-$7 each
Ford: E7GZ-7A133-A.......Mazda: B001-46-062
Lower shift boot:
Ford: F02Z7C301............Mazda: GJ25-46-090
Change control rod (large, front): GJ21-46-041 (Mazda)
Step by step directions for installing: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...ifter+bushings
2.2L Non-Turbo Vacuum Diagram:
http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~tford/vac_hose.jpg
HLA Ticking:
The HLAs, or Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, adjust valve clearances automatically,
so you don't have to do it during a tune up. However, they sometimes get clogged
with sludge on older cars and collapse. Marvel Mystery Oil has helped some people
to free them up. Otherwise you've got to replace them. Checking and replacement
procedures can be found by clicking this link: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=77252
ECU Reset:
I have just done an *engine, fuel, air intake, exhaust* modification and I need to reset the ECU/computer. How is this done and why do I need to do it?
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
2. Press on the brake pedal for about 30 seconds
3. Reconnect battery
4. Start the car but don't touch the gas pedal for one minute!
The ECU is like the brain for your car. It "learns" your engine's fuel and air intake requirements and then sets them into memory. When you do a modification that will affect the way fuel and air are mixed, then you have reset the brain so that it forgets the old requirements and has to learn new ones. This will guarantee that you will get the most from your mods.
ATX to MTX swap information:
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...t=ATX+MTX+swap
Speedometer stuff:
Follow the links for information regarding dealing with a bouncing needle, dead speedometer, and the repair.
Click here for info! (3 replies down)
Also, Here!
I have noticed that the speedometer drive gear is not the part that will fail. The best option is to replace the upper and lower speedometer cable assembly.
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