Engine Build/Rebuild. Let's work together.

[Wowo76]

Originally posted by Jeff_Jeske
I researched the new cap studs thing.....its gonna get pricey four you.....I had the entire rod, cap, and bolt shotpeened but I dont really think that does squat.....at least it was cheap.

Awe damnit - why does everything have to be so expensive.!!!

Well I called this shop in central Jersey and I'm gonna wind up have them clean and reassemble the lower block...if not the whole damn thing.

[Jeff_Jeske]

The problem is the hole doesn't have much room got get drilled out or the because the walls of the cap are very thin....you may think that just going 1mm bigger isnt much but you may risk weakening the cap itself if you go with any bigger hole.

[Wowo76]

"Budget" increase

I've come across an extra 2 grand I can dump on my car.

I have just about all the finances I need for the engine rebuild. I'm now seriously thinking of a standalone system to prep my car for being turbo charged.

Any recommendation?
SDS
Haltech
Electromotive
...dare i say AEM?

[cyborgzero]

Originally posted by Jeff_Jeske
The problem is the hole doesn't have much room got get drilled out or the because the walls of the cap are very thin

Tell that to interprep. They did it on their motor, and from what I have heard will do it for others.

BTW, as far as expense, PM me for details. I have a place that does it on a 15k boring machine and I can send it to them for you.

The hole is already oversized almost 1mm, actually about .75mm to be exact. An extra .5mm is not going to cause any problem. I have had Phds in metallurgy run plenty of sims on it and there is no difference in tensile strength, and, because of tighter tolerance on the hole size, there will be less cap walk.

This is one of the many places where you can beat the factory specs pretty easily and come up with something far superior in the process.

I have also a library of rods from other manufacturers that I have measured and many of them have bigger bolts with thinner cap and rod stays.

Besides that Jeff you were going to ship me a few spare rods to pull apart for destructive testing. You still got em?

[Jeff_Jeske]

I am glad that can be done.....I hope it wouldn't cost and arm and a leg. I'll have to check and see if I still have rods laying around. If not I am sure there are tons of others who do.

JJ

[dillinr]

Ok, so two options for the cap bolts...ARP studs, or boring them out or a bolth...

Are studs going to be sufficient enough by them selves ie boring them out .50 mm won't make much of a difference since I won't be running over 400 hp...yet?

Besides that is there an easy contact online for ARP?

Laters
Ryan

[cyborgzero]

I can have it done for $200, not including the Arp bolts..

If you want the Arp bolts fitted, its $250.

Rob

[Wowo76]

Originally posted by Jeff_Jeske
The problem is the hole doesn't have much room got get drilled out or the because the walls of the cap are very thin....you may think that just going 1mm bigger isnt much but you may risk weakening the cap itself if you go with any bigger hole.

I have a rod and it's cap in my hand, and i think that even though .5 mm isn't much...there seems to be very little space left.

That's just my own perception...but then again - i have no physical evidence to prove otherwise.

[elektromaniak]

Hi Guys, I am currenty working on a big project. I am completly rebuilding my ZE.

I already have headers, UDP Unorthodox Pulley, new timing belt, ZE curve neck Intake manifold.

I am also ordering a fidanza Flywheel, Act 2 Clutch kit, MSD 8.5mm spark splugs wires, MSD ignition system 6AL with a blaster coil 3. Brand new Water pump, Oil Pump, Tensioner Arm and gasket kit.

The engine wasnt working (piston chipped). So I am taking everything apart at the moment. We will pull the pistons tonight too.

I was thinking to oversize to 0.040. So basically what I am gonna have to do is order Oversized ZE pistons 10:1,1 Compression 0.040 and bring the block to the Machine shop with my new pistons and they will fit them in right?

I was thinking also to get the interior polish? would it worth it?
For my cams, I am sending a core set to Mike Seli so he can grind them for me.

What else do I have to change on the engine ? Valves retainers? Valves springs? Valves seats? I need to know everything I will need.

I am not gonna install any NOS or turbo later. And I dont want to spend a fortune by buying forged pistons rods and stuff. I want to buy only whats required for the rebuilt.

Also I know that JEpistons.com can make the pistons. But does anyone know a place to get 10:1,1 pistons for ZE? other than that.

Let me know, asap plz
thank you,

[Jeff_Jeske]

All you need is a set of gaskets.

If you are going to stay NA keep all the stock stuff its plenty strong.

The only issue the stock ZE seems to have had is the retainers.

[elektromaniak]

ok thanks
but for the pistons I have no choice to change them if my cylinders are damaged. So I have to put oversized pistons, 0.040 is ok? where else can I find them? I contacted corksport, they are backorder since 6 months they told me... Other than forged ones from Jepistons.com I couldnt find anything else.

Will the valve spring be stiff enough for grinded cams?

Also if I buy a flatlander rebuild kit (Gaskets & rings) oversized 0.040 minus the pistons (American compression 9:2.1) would that be fine?

And where can I get valve retainers made of steel or titanium?

Let me know, thanks for you help

[Jeff_Jeske]

How did you chip a piston?

Is your sleave damaged? You best check your valves then too.

If you dont mind running 9.2:1 compression then the flatlander kit will be fine. No need to go 40 over if 20 over is good enough. It will depend on the damage to the sleave.

If you have no plans to go beyond bolt ons then personally I would just purchase another KLZE and part out the one you have.

You can get 200 for the cams and 200 for the intake manifold....maybe even another 150 for the heads if they are not damaged. Take that $550 and put it towards another KLZE.

You are gonna waste alot of money doing that rebuild if you need new pistons as well as boring the block.

[elektromaniak]

thats what the guy told me when I bought it. But he is not 100% sure since he didnt opened it. I will know by tonight, I had to go buy the sockets star kit to take off the pistons and the head. I got it this morning the kit, so I will take the pistons off tonight and check out the cylinders too.

I was gonna buy a whole flatlander kit minus the pistons (because of the compression) and I was gonna order custom oversized 0.040 pistons from JEpistons.com

I know this will cost me more than buying a running ZE. But the engine will be basically new after, and I will feel better about it.

Its not too bad tho.

Forged Pistons 700$US
FLatlander kit 380$US
Headworks & labour to put the pistons back in 600$US

In same time i will try to change the valve springs and retainers for better ones. And send the cams to Mike so he can grind them.

Also I was wondering does KLDE (K8) or KL03 cams can be used as core (to grind them) and will give the same result than a KL31 cams set?

thanks

[Jeff_Jeske]

Sell your KL31 cams and source some cheap KL03 cams from SNOWSEEKER.

Head work and block boring and labor is gonna set you back more than $600.

$200 for the boring
$225 for the valve job
$50 head decking
$50 for block decking
$50 parts cleaning

Odds are the piston isn't chipped unless a valve dropped into it....so you may need new valves.

Basically you wont know what you need until you have the motor apart to inspect. Then determine what to do.

[elektromaniak]

ok, thanks
I wil take the rest apart tonight and will let you know
and show you pictures

As for the price I was comparing it to my dad which went to the machine shop for his Mustang 75 engine.

It costed him 1300$CDN, they bored the cylinders, port the head, did the whole polishing job, reinstalled the pistons and its for a V8.

When you mean deck the head its like polishing right?
You also mentionned a valve job... is it necessary since I am not oversizing the valves... what did you mean by that? when I re installed them back with the stiffer spring?

thanks, I will tell you how are the damage in a few hours.